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  1. That's the underside, all pylons and all missiles in light ghost grey done. As per the reference photos the real aircraft (and whole squadron for that matter) look pretty well looked after by and large, but they do live on a carrier and get used so only fairly minor fading, wear and tear by the looks of things. I'm going for a subtle "less is more" approach with the weathering and that's turning out nicely. https://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VFA/Strike-Fighter-Squadron-81.htm?fbclid=IwAR1k1qqn0Lpg1AW8brO4fT64ONRUsSWE0-ef7pRV4rh1NQByHAPgLLzOfTI
  2. Re-primed the section I stuffed up and masked the "box" on the nose
  3. Nice work mate. What stand is that you're using?
  4. Sanded it back to be safe. I've put too much work into this to roll the dice on something so minor.
  5. So I've managed to ever so slightly bleed on my primed model. The blood dried before I spotted it and could wipe it off. Am I likely to have any issues with acrylic paint? Are there any steps I should be taking to salvage things? I can't be the first one here to accidently bleed on their work
  6. So the whole undersized mask didn't quite work out (too hard to trim and align). I switched back to the full size ones. Having the panel lines printed on the mask made alignment a bit easier. Evidently laser printer ink doesn't bond too well to masking sheets so it rubs off when burnishing down the mask. If I ever do this again I think I'll distort the colours to better contrast with the mask and make it easier to I also managed to ever so slightly bleed on a section. Is that likely to interact with the paint? Is there anything I should be doing to prevent the paint failing? Surely I can't be the first person to do that
  7. So here's my first go at creating a masking sheet using Word and Paint. I've doubled up a bit to give me some margin for error so if I mess one up I've got a backup and don't have to waste another sheet. I've done a 15% undersized version of the camo blob at the back for painting the light ghost grey. The hope is that'll give me a nice gradient colour transition when I paint over the edges in dark ghost grey. Time will tell
  8. Looking good. Yesterday I saw a hobby shop advertising a kit of the jet version if you're instated interested in "completing the set" so to speak. https://www.hobbyco.com.au/1-48-kyushu-j7w2-s-interceptor-fighter-shindenkai
  9. Magnificent! The masked and painted markings really help bring it to life. And I really like your restrained minimalist approach to weathering.
  10. Pylons, ordinance, wheels and tyres are now primed
  11. Loving the paint work. I appreciate you going into the detail of how you did it. Really helpful for less revisited modelers such as myself who are trying to improve. I get what you're saying about enjoying the challenge and problem solving side of the hobby. But at the same time I don't particularly enjoy fighting poor engineering or quality of manufacture issues. Kits that challenge you for the right reason are awesome.
  12. With some slight reshaping the 216% is actually pretty close. After rechecking my reference pictures the "blob" in the camo is a lot larger and more prominent than I thought. The colour shift is subtle enough that it can be really hard to tell unless you're looking at a very clean jet. Also much more consistent between different aircraft, a little dirt and grime gives the illusion of it being hand painted and less uniform. https://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VFA/Strike-Fighter-Squadron-81.htm?fbclid=IwAR1k1qqn0Lpg1AW8brO4fT64ONRUsSWE0-ef7pRV4rh1NQByHAPgLLzOfTI If we look at some RAAF Super Hornets it's easier to spot. RAAF planes have a reputation for being kept super clean (and have the unfair advantage of not living on aircraft carriers) we can get good detail on it. Not only is it fairly large but very uniform and consistent between aircraft.
  13. That's way out. Proportions are completely wrong Actually it's pretty close
  14. Success! Never under estimate Microsoft Paint! Scaled up to 216% and annotated the image in Paint with cutting lines. I'm ordering some A4 masking sheets that I can print directly onto (lockdowns suck) and I'll add the last horizontal section with a piece of tape directly back to the leading edge extension and line it up with that.
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