scotthldr

These CF-104’s were actually painted at Prestwick, Scotland, during overhaul by Scottish Aviation Ltd. The paint was procured locally, so probably to a BS specification. Looking at pictures and allowing for the usual exposure/printing/ screen abnormalities, I’m thinking BS381-224 DEEP BRONZE GREEN, could be a possibility.

Kittyhawk went out of business, so i’d expect no joy there. As you bought the kit secondhand I feel your disappointment should be directed towards the person that sold you the defective kit, did they mention the warped fuselage and broken canopy(maybe the kit was still sealed so weren’t aware or maybe that was the reason for selling).

I’m fairly sure that Saudi Arabia have used theirs against the Houthi Rebels in Yemen.

The F-16F Blk60, is not suitable for a Blk 70/72 aircraft, the fuselage forward of the cockpit to the point of the radome is a different shape along with the base of tail. Essentially there isn’t much of a difference between the Blk70/72 and the airframe it was modded from. The RoCAF Blk72’s are modded from the F-16A Blk20’s and still look like F-16A Blk20, whereas the Hellenic ones are being modded from F-16C/D Blk52+ and still look like C/D Blk52+. Blk70 GE engine MCID intake(big mouth) Blk72 PW engine NSI intake(small mouth) Note that the RoCAF were originally Blk20’s, this was before the GE engine made an appearance on the F-16C Blk30 and the subsequent 30/32, 40/42, 50/52 designations depending on which engine was installed.

Beautiful aircraft which has been greatly captured in your build. 👍🏻

Any of the Luftwaffe releases should be fine, these are still widely available.

Looks like the outer pylons are the same regardless of what’s hung from it and they’re included in this set http://www.larsenal.com/pylone-d-emport-bi-bombe-pour-super-etendard-sem-epak-1-48-c2x15950851

Indian aircraft are painted as per the French B,C and -5. Egyptian examples were painted in an overall Grey colour.

SAC Britney Leather, RAF Valley Photo Section. Crown Copyright MOD 2020. This picture illustrates the effect that a blue sky has on Black. The light reflecting off the fuselage gives an overall appearance that it’s Dark Blue, but look at the canopy framing which isn’t reflecting the light and it’s clearly Black.

Rafale wouldn’t have been in service at the time. SuE’s normally flew in pairs with one a/c carrying the Atlis pod on the centreline. Damocles pod didn’t appear until 2009 onwards.

FS36231 is the official colour of the cockpit(you may already know that), how far off that colour are the Quinta decals?

τελείως φανταστικο🇬🇷 Your work always amazes me, hoping to see some more this year.

The drooping nose was fixed very early on and the only kit to suffer from it was the initial release batch of the F-16 NATO Viper. I would be surprised if any of these were still on shelves in model shops. Note that the kit retained the same product number throughout and it would only be on opening the box and careful inspection would you be aware if you had an initial or later release boxing. As Adam above states Kinetic have just released a totally new tooling of the above and unless cost is a factor the old kit isn’t really worth considering, although they do build up rather nicely, with a bit of care and effort.

The problem I find with paint codes and modelling is that once you’ve spent many hour’s researching the matter and finally(if your lucky), finding the correct code is then to find a manufacturer that produces the paint in the correct shade. If paint codes aren’t a given, then I refer to the Mk1 eye ball. In this case I’ve came to the conclusion that the Grey used on the Saudi Tornadoes is or is damn near FS36280, commonly referred to as Italian Sky Grey.

I would very much expect it to be the standard finish, which is FS36232 (Dark Gull Grey).

I’ll echo the above. I’ve just finished building the-5F boxing and instructions are very vague, so get yourself some good reference material as some antennas, scoops and vents will need to be added.

If you’re referring to the Taiwan boxing for a D-5i, then basically yes it can. Only parts you’ll be short of will be the targeting pod and air to ground weapons and of course the decals. I could sort you out with the pod and weapons. Is there a reason that you can’t just use the proper D boxing?

Having read the thread, I cannot see any personal insults or liable accusations begin made. What I do see is people voicing their unhappiness and displeasure due to their own experiences, with some producing photographic evidence that would very much support their arguments and claims.

I recommend Revell’s Colormix for thinning Xtracolor.

Yes, you can select TR during taxi.

Hi, I’ll try to explain the acrylic/enamel thing. Acrylic paints can be referred to as a cold paint while enamels are referred to as a hot paint due to the chemical make up within each type. Therefore both types don’t generally go well together. However with care and some basic knowledge both can be used in partnership. Enamels over acrylic: due to the hot chemicals(thinners), within the enamel it tends to dissolve the acrylic underneath, add in the abrasive nature of the brushing action and it will more than likely disturb the acrylic. By using an airbrush and misting on thin coats of enamel over the acrylic, gradually building it up, good results can be had. Acrylics over enamel, this is easier although it’s vitally important to ensure that the enamel is not only dry but fully cured which can take over a week, this allows the gases produced by the enamel thinners to escape from the paint. If not the gases will cause the acrylic to blister and separate. Regards the Matt varnish, was this out of a spray can? It’s sounds like there wasn’t enough control of the pressure which has resulted in more varnish being sprayed in certain areas. As with the above, lightly misted coats gradually built up will get rid of that issue.

Decent little kit, that builds well. Remember the first rule of modelling ‘dry fit twice, glue once’. For glue the Revell precision little Blue bottles are a good all rounder. Any questions just ask, and the kind peeps on here will help👍🏻

Any kit is buildable by a newbie, just don’t expect it to look like a masterpiece. The kit itself is a small part of the overall modelling experience, what tools, glues and paints you use and how you use them, along with your budget, time and what level of detail you want to achieve will ultimately dictate your finished result. You might even decide half way through the build that modelling isn’t all that enjoyable and give up, wasting a ton of cash in the process. Therefore II would recommend a couple of cheap kits to start with first in order to learn the basics, building up your tools and paints as you go, before shelling out hundreds of pounds on more detailed kits and other materials. Italeri 1/48 kits like the MB326, Hawk, A-4 etc… are pretty good starting points.

Superb, top class finish👍🏻