Pappy35

All my surface texture problems when away when I started using MRP. I can't explain why, but I have never been able to shoot any Vallejo product. My two go-tos are MRP for lacquer and Tamiya thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner or their acrylic thinner (X-20A?). Just a few days ago I tried Tamiya LP-# (silver, I don't recall the number) and it was amazing. In that same session I also tried Mig Ammo (or is it Ammo by Mig?) thinned with their thinner, water, and neat. Worked great too.

Fear in this case is unwarranted. Seriously, just don't put any torque on it.

I haven't broken one yet. This isn't really a possibility if one is even remotely careful about "tightening" it back up. I put that in quotes because you don't tighten it at all, you stop the moment you fell it snug up to the mount. If there's any resistance at all then you've cross-threaded it. Stop, remove, start over. If you get the GSI/Creos (highly recommended), then get this tool. Mr. Hobby and Iwata should not include that silly wrench because it just encourages people to apply wayyyy too much torque.

1) You prevent overspray with masking. 2) Pressure is very highly variable. Some primers need lots and extremely fine work can happen at less than 10psi. There is no one pressure that's correct overall. 3) Low pressure and highly thinned. Again, this is highly variable and the best way is to experiment. My experience is limited since I only got my first airbrush in Dec., but all my problems stopped the moment I gave up on Vallejo. A lot of water-based acrylics need flow improvers, retarders, surface tension breakers, thinners, etc. Ugh...I didn't want to have to study paint chemistry to learn how to airbrush a model. Go out and buy a couple of large, cheap models (like a couple of 1/32 Revell F-15's that have acres of bare plastic) and use them not to build, but to practice different thinner ratios and pressures. There really isn't any absolute value that we can give you to go by. Airbrush brands are very subjective but to me H&S are overrated and overpriced. I initially bought an Amazon cheapo that I returned the next day (don't go cheap). I then bought an Iwata Revolution that I used to learn, it was/is fantastic. I wanted to move up so I bought an Infiniti and ended up returning it over how difficult it was to clean. Finally, bought a GSI Creos PS-771 and PS-289 and could not be happier. The 771 is for very fine, low pressure work. The Revolution, with it's 0.5mm nozzle, is great for primers and other thicker paints/larger area tasks, and the 289 with its 0.3mm nozzle for everything else. Having all these brushes, I would say get a 0.3mm, that'll work for 95% of anything you'll ever need. If you find you need to paint tiger strips on grain of rice, then 0.2 or smaller is in line. I would very highly recommend starting out with Tamiya acrylic lacquer thinned 50/50 with their X-20A @ ~15-18psi. Building up my meager experience, like pressure and other variables, started the moment I tried this through my Iwata Revolution. I have now moved on to Mr. Paint (a.k.a. MRP). These are pre-thinned lacquers that, for me, are utterly bulletproof and are just "load and shoot." You need to work on ventilation though but they're not really that bad. MRP are my primary, go-to paints, and Tamiya's are my backup for airbrush use or brush painting.

For all the "blocked nozzle" responses: I was under the impression that only paint flowed through the nozzle and all the air came from around it? Is this the case or am I missing something?

I can't tell what kind of airbrush that is, but the compressor is perfect. Love the dual diaphragm types.

Anyone have any idea who will be importing these to the US? Kitlinx can get them buy they want $180-something dollars which is wayyy over what I'd be willing to pay.

I thought about that but given that I'm a gas-turbine engineer (worked for RR Indianapolis, GE, and Pratt & Whitney) for 30+ years now it would be blasphemous for me to hide the intakes. 😝

My other kit hit a wall waiting for paint so I broke out the Phantom just to check out the intake situation. Wow. You guys were being kind. They are horrible and not at all what I expected from such an expensive kit. Yikes. I'm going to order a set of GT resin intakes. The images on Sprue Brothers though look like the joints along the outer fuselage are pretty rough. Any opinions? Edit: I ordered a set of GT resin intakes from Sprue Brothers just now.

I just recently got back in and got my first airbrush ever. Don't feel bad, I did the same thing in buying a cheapo Amazon deal by Master Airbrush. After a couple of sessions I figured out it (airbrushing that is) was in fact the bomb and I returned that POS I got and replaced it with an Iwata Revolution. My advice to you is to: Ditch the cheap airbrush, it's only going to cause problems and frustrate you. You'll forever be troubleshooting issues (like the the ones you started this thread about) rather than learning technique. I tried to use Vallejo paints and had consistent problems. Ditched those in favor of Tamiya bottled acrylics. I'm trying MRP now but that's harder to get and it seems expensive for tehe about of pigment you can lay down. Tamiya remains my go to paint. Get an actual compressor. That one you got isn't a compressor, it a toy. Seriously, that unit alone could be the source of many of your troubles. The Master Airbrush unit with a tank has served me well and is very quiet. I think any of the no-name types on Amazon will be fine as they all look like they come out of the same factory. Tank or no tank would work I'm sure but I like the tanked variety. Believe me when I say that you're going to end up spending more money trying to save money. Airbrushing is THE way to paint models. Know that and get a real tool, not a trinket. For around $200 you can get good equipment and remove quality issues with your tools from hampering skills development.

Roger that. Those are the ones I ordered. I don't think I'm going to apply them all but I'm a big believer in "better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it."

I will take a look at the fit of the intakes on mine when I get to it. I don't want to make myself suffer unnecessarily and these sound like they'll save me a bunch of time and look better.

That Hobby Lobby 40% off thing must have burned them before because now that deal is restricted to only items that are not marked "Your Price" in a little red flag. The 40% off thus does not apply to high value items like airbrushes. I'd post a screen grab but I can't figure out how to post pictures on this site. Hobby Lobby Iwata Revolution Ad

Thanks for the replies fellas. Here's where I stand so far: Eduard Placards, Masks, Formation lights, Cockpit Details (PE), Seat, Nozzles Quickboost Tail inlet Armory Weighted wheels AOA Decals Aircraft stencils I'm just not so fussy about whether outline matches the true aircraft's to the nanometer though I am fussy about details. I'm just getting back after a 40+ year hiatus and so I'm still slogging up the learning curve. Nine kits so far not counting two Revell kits I tried that were horrible and are now just paint/technique mules. Completed Tamiya 1:48 P-47, Tamiya 1:48 Mosquito In-Work Airfix 1:24 Hellcat, Airfix 1:48 P-51, Special Hobby 1:32 Tempest (on hold, very frustrating kit) In Line Eduard 1:48 Hellcats x 2, Tamiya 1:32 F4U-1A, Tamiya 1:32 F-4J On Order Tamiya 1:32 Spitfire Mk. IXc

I'll add my input: I just finished a Mk. IV last month that I purchased in early January or late Dec. '20. It did not contain those FB parts. Though I don't have the leftovers anymore, I know it didn't because I would have built that version if the parts were there.

Hello there folks, first post. I have the subject kit on the way and was wondering, for those of you that have built the kit, are there any must-have accessories?