Kelscale

Having recently finished building RFM’s Pz.IV Ausf J and currently still having lots of fun with their Pz.IV Ausf J interior kit, I really fancied tackling another of their 1/35 armour kits. This year I’ve not started another softskin, which is what I mainly build, as these kits have just been such a pleasurable experience. The engineering is so good, and the plastic such a similar colour match, that I keep thinking I’m building a Tamya kit😉 As the end of last year was all about Pz.IV. J’s for me, this year I’m maxing out on StuG’s. Over the last few months, I’ve almost finished Dragon’s lovely StuG III Ausf F8 kit which will be based on an Italian campaign vehicle. I have a few decent period images which capture some nice features. I also ‘blitzed’ through Takom’s StuG III Ausf G (Early). This was built straight out of the box with no intention of losing any sleep over it's many inaccuracies. So, as I’m slowly getting to know my way around a Pz.III chassis and some of the later StuG variants, I figured why not check out one of RFM’s StuG's. This is their Ausf G late kit and it’s a belter. I’ve read there are a few issues with some small features (what kit doesn’t) but they are minimal and nothing that cannot be easily remedied. According to those in the know on ML, it is the perfect base kit that requires very little extra work to portray a decent Alkett built last production Ausf G. This kit is the non interior 2022 released kit 5086 and you can build a StuG III or a StuH42. RFM 5086 info It includes both Alkett and MIAG track guards as it incorporates sprues from their Pz.III as well as from previous StuG kits. The tracks are RFM’s own individual links which incorporates a jig to complete small runs, speeding up construction. There is no turned metal barrel, but the one-piece slide moulded one is easy to clean up. There are two frets of photoetch. The largest covers the Schurzen plates. The wheels incorporate poly caps which I personally like and fit nice and snug just like on many a Tamiya kit. The lower hull is of flatpack design and fits together perfectly. The torsion bars can be made workable or you can simply glue the ends onto the lower hull. There is even an option to build adjustable shock absorbers (dampers). Your choice. When it comes to the bow armour the StuG went through quite a few production design changes in this area. Unlike another certain Chinese manufacturer I could mention, the correct parts are called out, even though there are several other variant parts available on the sprues. The running gear lines up really nicely as does all the features on the rear plate. The interlocking bow plate portion which would be partly visible just forward of each sprocket plate on each lower hull side plate stranglely isn't moulded on. I chiselled out the feature and added the welding marks. The transmission plate is just dry fitted in the image below. One of the oddities in the kit is RFM’s choice of tracks. The open guide horn type was seen on StuG’s III's, just not many have been photographed on these late production vehicles. A period image that captured my attention had the more common type seen on these variants and as I had a 3D set of T-Rex links, I figured these were the ones to go for. That decision wasn’t one of my best! Unlike three previous sets which I had a blast with, these were a right PITA. They definitely were not from the same batch as my previous sets as the material was far more brittle. I even had some links break which hasn't happened before! On top of that the pins did not appear to exhibit any taper and a large percentage were already damaged in their small bags! TBH I though of contacting the seller but figured I should as least see if I can build up two complete runs first. I did, but only just and the pins were falling out as quick as I popped them back in🤬 In the end after a few choice words and a few strong shandies, I brush painted over the pin ends on the links with Vallejo grey primer. This seemed to solve the issue but I then found the links were a tight fit over the sprocket and I don't trust them to take much more handling! After all this track building agro I have decided to give the kit tracks a go. Also, as RFM only offer the earlier style round tow cable clamps, I ordered the correct square aftermarket Alkett factory produced ones from Panzerwerk Design Alkett late tow cable brackets. Whilst postage is way in excess of their cost, I also plumped for some of their Type 6B tracks Pz.III & IV type 6B links at the same time. Their tracks look good and have favourable reviews, so I will build them up when they come and choose whether they trump the kit tracks later in the build. As it would give the option to display the vehicle on uneven ground I opted to utilise the kit's adjustable torsion bar set up which will work with the optional moveable damper units. Due to the kit's engineering in this area the adjusable torsion bars naturaly allow the wheels to lift over obstacles, and the moveable damper units equally compress, but they do not naturally rebound. This effect is visible in the first image below. The first and last front bogie wheels are slightly effected by the track tension and are pulled a little higher than they would normally sit on level ground. If positioned on uneven ground they can always be fixed, so it’s nice to have this option. The T-Rex tracks do look the business but this set was far from perfect. The track tension on the other side is a touch loser on the image below so all the bogie wheels sit nice and level. One construction fix which was pointed out to me by a fellow modeller is to do with two strengthening ribs (parts D13 & D14) which you are instructed to add to the undersides of the gun box in step 13. What they do in essence is create a channel which allows the gun box to align squarely onto both of the thin lower hull side plates. The problem is, that they only need the fixing to be off a fraction and the channel will become too narrow and will interfere with what should be a simple slot down on to the lower hull sides. To remedy this potential fit issue, you just need attach the parts directly to the lower hull instead. There are slots in the lower hull side plates too, so it’s a really simple fix. The lower hull interior includes a fighting compartment floor to which the gun cradle fixing mount is attached. Only the inner two of the four spars that fit between the lower hull back plate to the extension over the exhausts featured on these late production vehicles. It is not an issue to fit them as instructed as they are not visible (unless you are an IPMS/USA judge) 🫣 and the extension rear plate you fit has the correct bolt head detail for just the two inner ones that remained. In step 15 you get to choose your gun type and unlike any previous manufacturer's releases, each gets its own breech and cradle parts and construction steps. It is worth mentioning that in step 19 it is not at all clear in which order you attach your breech sub-assembly, gun box, lower hull and mantlet all together! I’m sure there are a few ways that folks have managed to do this successfully, but it is not at all obvious and quite a conundrum to figure out. Breech assembly with added weld detail on the recuperator and an aftermarket barrel. I incorporated the kit's spring so I can leave it adjustable to ensure I end up with the correct length of visible barrel outside of the mantlet. The full breech sub-assembly with the mantlet and muzzle brake dry fitted. I’m currently building up the engine deck which comes as a separate moulding but I’m not going to attach all the parts permanently until I pick some aftermarket stowage. Can anybody confirm whether aftermarket resin StuG engine deck stowage parts fix over the armoured hatches or directly to an unpopulated deck? Engine deck, armoured engine hatches and gun box roof still dry fitted. Progress so far The loaders front armour plate provided in the kit is of the earlier production design which incorporated two (50 & 30mm) plates. Late Ausf G had a single 80mm plate. It would be quite easy to hide the join if it were not for the fact that the kit’s outer 30mm plate part does not feature the extra portion that curves down to match the contours of the inner plate. I shaped a similar thickness piece of grey styrene to mimic the outer plate then scribed torch marks over both to hide the join. I understand the correct single 80mm plate can be found spare on the sprues of many a Dragon StuG kit.

Likely not much real difference to earlier releases maybe. I know zero about Tiger I's so I'm looking forward to this GB

I wonder if this new Villers Bocage edition RFM 5101 release will be available and obtainable before the GB finishes? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/rye-field-model-rm-5101-tiger-i-late-production--1524299

I've finally sucumb and purchased a monthly subscription to Adobe Lightroom. The package also provides Photoshop as well as a host of other Adobe photo editing products. All the below images were taken with a Cannon DSLR in AV mode, ISO set to 200, and the F stop to F22 After spending a little time playing about and getting a basic understanding of how everything works inside the Lightroom app I would like to seek some advice, tips and recomendations from anybody who uses the product. Are you happy tweaking over the simple auto function, do you 'lock' in your own customised presets, or do you utilise different settings depending on the subject matter and lighting? Playing about with the settings and this worn whitewashed winter set vehicle looks much more at home in the second image IMO After a little research I happened on Martin Kovak's (Uncle Nightshift) recommendations for editing images of his completed builds from a few years ago. He did 95% of his editing in Lightroom then did some final 'tidy up' work in photoshop. I followed his settings to the letter and as the Lightroom software hasn't changed too much, I managed to get some reasonably good images. Unfortunately the photoshop application has changed quite significantly so I couldnt replicate his quick trick of tidying up unwanted shadows by masking on a completely white background. The background on all my images is still a little grey with too many shadows on the ground! Playing around some more I realised Martin's settings were far more dramatic than the ones I had already edited. You can see this in the two images below My first edit Using Martin's recommended settings Although I never feel WIP images need to be up to the same standard, the same settings did not work on unpainted models and I had to play about and tweak the settings further still, to try and experiment with what I felt worked best. Again a completely white background would have improved the overall look I'm making notes and will continue experimenting but does anybody use both apps and have any tips and recomendations on how to get the best out of editing your model images in this software?

Wowee, this took a while to both track down and arrive from the tuther side of the EU!!! I did consider having a first go with Green stuff but as this is my first Tiger I build since a childhood attempt I thought better of it. The set comes with a choice of two turret zim type patterns and also two resin mantlets It's now going to take until the GB start date to decipher the Dragon instruction sheet🥴

Cheers Ed. A refreshingly cheap kit to buy too. Obviously the added Zim, barrel and tracks knock that up quite a bit, but the barrel is probably really only the must have upgrade needed Indeed Keith. It definately still embarresses many more modern kits! Cheers buddy. Thank you Thanks John

Tamiya kit BUILD (kit 35181) This Tamiya kit represents an early Ausf J and does not include either zimmerit or any lower Schürzen. Such is the ease in the way that these Tamiya kit's build up I had completed almost 75% of it before it occurred to me to take pictures! Only the main wheel halves put up any real resistance. The four-return roller hull tub is a one-piece affair, and the return roller brackets, and idler spindles are moulded on. The bogies assemblies are not moveable but their fixing points to the hull are prominent so lining them all up is a simple task. Unfortunately, the main wheels halves do not fit very well together. One of the mating connection surfaces is either under or oversized so some sanding is required to avoid the connection points splitting. Connection to the bogie spindles is loose so care will be required to line them up before final fixing. The sprockets use poly caps. Although fitting the kit plastic band tracks is not a problem, once the upper and lower hull assemblies are fixed, the close proximity of the track guard to the first two station return rollers impede the option of adding a complete plastic or resin track run. Having the poly caps on the sprockets does allows for the easy installation by threading through of any aftermarket tracks. Both fabricated and cast idlers are offered. With such typical LEGO like precision the parts assemble so effortlessly that I found myself at step 8 with the upper and lower hulls in place within a couple of hours. 👌 The next task was to add the Monroeperdu paper zimmerit to the upper and lower hull. I have only used this product once before and in the main I was pretty pleased with how it looked under paint. As is pointed out in the instructions it is advisable to add with PVA over primer to aid adhesion. This does present a few issues straight of the bat as we all know how plastic glues and paint can make quite a mess. As well as the potential for issues whilst gluing further items over paint once the zimmerit is down, on the previous build I had used Mr Surfacer Primer and it strangely reacted with the PVA! This time I tested a few spare pieces with regular (white top) Tamiya cement, and it adhered directly to the plastic really well. The paper zimmerit sheets outline really well to the main contours of the model, but occasionally you will find holes need to be cut to clear raised detail or trimmed to clear areas where additional parts are to be located. You either have a choice of cutting these small areas out before attaching the sheet or, as I found, cutting them out once the sheet has dried onto the model. Any witness marks on the plastic will give you an indication of placement and removal of the paper sheet is very easy. Areas that do require a little more work is mating up the different sheets where they meet on angles, but a tiny amount of putty should do the trick. Certainly, no more work than you would expect with resin zimmerit sheets. The addition of a brushed coat of diluted PVA glue once all the zimmerit is down is required to harden the paper sheets and this also enables you to add battle damage once it has dried hard. I did this with a small paintbrush to eliminate covering any small plastic items located around the zimmerit. Unlike the rigid resin sheets, one added bonus is that it adheres well to DIY inflicted damaged track guards etc, and can be moulded to suit new contours effortlessly. With the hull zimmerit added it was time to add all the items that sat around and within the zimmerit sheets. This included the lifting hooks, spare wheel holder and jack block etc. Looking at period images many areas of both port and starboard sides of the upper hull remained free of zimmerit due to all the ancillary items. Although the sheets are cut to fit the whole sides, just cut the zimmmerit short in those areas if you need to. Next up was to try and improve some of the kit detail shortcomings. Having so many spares left over from the Dragon and Border kits was a big bonus. The Bosch headlight and hatches were sourced from these additional sprues. Likewise, I sourced certain tools that had clasps included or more detail and a better scale appearance. A 3D printed fire extinguisher was also added. The Tamiya kit comes with turret Schurzen and the early type lower rail with triangular brackets. Looking at what I have left from the Dragon and Border kits it might be possible to replace many of the finer details in this area too. Sadly, the track guard Schürzen brackets are very chunky, so without any Schürzen to hang anyway, I opted to leave them off and drill location holes instead. The turret sides are a two-part affair, but the joints are almost 100% hidden by the bin and mantlet. Again, certain areas like the lifting hooks, machine gun and commanders hatch were replaced with more detailed parts from the spares box. I felt the old fashioned split two-part kit barrel is one item that definitely required updating. The ABER turned metal barrel is kit specific and fits very well. I did try the slide moulded single piece spare plastic barrel from the Border kit, but it just wasn’t playing ball with the existing Tamiya breechblock and housing. So, compared to the far more involving RFM Ausf J this Tamiya kit can be fully built up in a day. Apart from the road wheel fitment issues the rest of the kit is a breeze to build. I have yet to add a few smaller items like the front spare track brackets and some finer handles. I also have some aftermarket tracks to add but those loose wheels make a quick assemble for a photo shoot hardwork! There are also some small gaps in the paper zimmerit that will require filling, and some edges require feathering down to the plastic to avoid that 'squared off look'. Particularly in places where the zimmerit paste application ended. Other than that, this build is pretty much complete.

Work on the abandoned mittlerer Zugkraftwagen continues at a leisurely pace. As the base is coming along nicely it was time to test fit the painted accessories onto both the load area and cab ready for final fixing. I suspect a few items will still have to be removed or placement tweaked but I'm nearly there. Less is more and all that! The green stuff sculpted tarps were made almost 10 years ago and are very crude in places. As they are fixed in place, they will require a little more work to make them look like convincing tarps, blankets, and clothing. I might have to resort to placing some extra material over certain areas to disguise some overscale edges etc. That should set everything up for blending all the added items. I'm really looking forward to these final weathering steps to harmonise it all together.

Its about time this oldie saw some daylight so I'm in

I've just noticed all his notes on a Dragon late kit I've had for years. That's a rabbit hole I'm going to find difficult not to go down now😬

Totally agree Keith. I never used to bother too much with research but when I built my first kit based on a particular vehicle, I had so many reply's pointing out the errors with the kit and why I hadn't fix them, I figured if I built one again I would at least read up on the vehicle. I still build lots of kits without a second thought to their accuracy and it's refreshing not to get beat up about all the extra work involved. Good luck with the build Los

Looking through DB's scale model list of Tiger I's here is one Takom kit assesment https://tiger1.info/models/products-page/TAK2200

Nice one. I personally do get brain freeze when the books get really technical but they are interesting reads and once you understand some of the why's and when's, it does make things a lot clearer. A lot of these reference books also have some incredible images which don't pop up that often elsewhere. A good build log is also helpful. A chap called David Byrden has assisted multiple kit manufacturers get their kits to market. He has a website with a lot of valuable info on the Tiger I. Defo worth a look at his page: https://tiger1.info/vehicle.html

Lovely build and excellent photography 👌

Cheers Ed. appreciated I'm getting a little addicted if I'm honest🙃

Thanks Keith The Dragon screens are nice but a challenge to construct. The Border and RFM kits are off a much simpler design. Three companies built the Pz. IV Ausf J and they would have all sourced parts from different manufacturers, so there were already features unique to all three. As changes were ordered implementation wasn’t always immediate. There were features that you wouldn’t expect to see but there was a myriad more that you would. The Panzer Tracts reference book 4-3 which covers both the Ausf H and J are invaluable in informing of official production feature timelines. This is why so many kit manufacturers use generic terms such as ‘early’ or ‘late’ and whilst some kit manufacturers muddy the waters somewhat by offering incorrect features all together, others do provide multiple parts but then completely ignore production timelines and instruct incorrect part call outs. Many vehicles leaving the same factory in the same month could have had different parts fitted so the only way to accurately represent a particular vehicle is from period images. While it is certainly true that field repairs necessitated replacing damaged parts, I personally think the huge variation of features is more down to having such a large number of updates throughout a very short production run. I very much doubt many Ausf J's survived very long at all once they became operational!

What tank to build? After further research the features incorporated on my build, especially the inclusion of the three return rollers, track return plate, central tow bracket and more importantly the transmission brake hatch handles, push the production timescale to a post March 45 build. Sadly, although tank 432 which I planned to represent does have some very late design features it definately has a four return roller hull (see close up pick below) and I completely forgot that I built mine with three, even though there was an option in the kit to build with four.🥴 I have just commenced building RFMs Pz.IV Ausf J interior kit 5043 so I've now earmarked that kit to represent tank 432. Back to the drawing board With period images of three return roller hulls on late war Ausf J's already limited, I've made things more tricky now as I need to find an image with not only vehicle ID but also with features that match my build! 🙄 Looking at the kit’s painting and marking guide one of the 1945 options looks feasible. Tank No 11 was from the 11. Panzer Division and was photographed around Bad Kotzing, Bavaria in a pretty worn condition. It is shown on page 75 of Panzer Tracts 4-3 minus all the Drahtgeflecht-Schürzen and associated brackets. Just like my build and tank 432 the spare track bar is missing from the bow plate but unlike the cast idler on 432, tank 11 looks to have the tubular fabricated type. There is one issue though! The transmission hatches still retain the armoured vents. Pz.IV fact: This vehicles Fgst.Nr (chassis No)110222 stencilled on the track plate is reported to have had one of the very highest recorded Fgst.Nr’s in service with the Wehrmacht. The second vehicle on the painting and marking guide is tank No 515 from the 31 Pz.Rgt. 5 pz. Div. This was was photographed in eastern Prussia. Dragon, Border Models and Miniart all have decals for this tank in their late Ausf J kits, with Miniart labelling their kit as a Jan-Feb 45 production. The only issue representing this tank is that it was covered in whitewash and I really want to try the late war hard edge camo pattern. Burntout Ausf J but very late features such as gas detector panel brackets on the mantlet, lifting hoops on the front of the Aufbau, yet still retaining the original turret vision port and armoured vents on the transmission hatches. 217 looks a little worse for wear! Again a mismatch of features. No turret vision port but like tank 432 still on a four return roller hull. I can't make out the transmission hatch layout Tank 25 is looking a good match for my build. It shows it in a column with another Pz.IV, in Czechoslovakia upon surrender in 1945 A closer shot of 25 and the type of transmission hatch layout is hidden from view No vehicle ID and extensively damaged with armoured vents on the transmission hatches. The very last built vehicles had factory applied late war camo and they were applied in a hard-edge pattern. Tank No 11 looks to have softer demarcation lines but that could just be down to the amount of dust and dirt build up. Unless I find any more images it looks like Tank No 11 is the one to go for. Adding some spare tracks on the glacis and covering the type of transmission hatch might have to be an option worth considering. Here are some Ausf J survivors with vehicles that have been restored or are undergoing restoration. Some with early build features, some with late, and some with a mismash of both. Whilst I spend a few more days on research trying to find some more Ausf J period images with unit ID, RFMs Ausf J will reside amongst unpainted brethren. Left to right. Border kit Bt-008, RFM kit 5033 and Dragon kit 6575

Although I felt like I spent a fair amount of time at the bench this year, I only actualy managed to get one over the line. My glacial pace of working and an extremely bad habit of starting far too many new kits before completing projects already on the go saw to that. 🥴 I did however manage to put a fair chunk of time into two existing diorama projects (L4500 & Anhanger and a Sd.Kfz.7 and Flak 36) started in 2022 and both are well on their way to completion. I had two ‘to do’ plans at the start of 2023. The first was to devote as much time to experimenting with new untried paint schemes. Unfortunately, the reality turned out very differently! The paint booth has seen very little use. Only the two dio kits and a base coating of a Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper (SWS) saw any time in there. 🙄 The second was to finish building a couple of Dragon kits that I had started late in 2022. This I did manage to achieve, and I have their Stug F/8 and an early Tiger II kit both ready for paint. After my one solitary project was completed in January, family and work life took me away from the bench for huge swathes of time. To find my Mojo again in the summer, I resorted to building a few simple kits OOB. They included two 20+ year old Tamiya 1/35 AFV kits. A Pershing and a Pz.IV Ausf J. I really enjoyed building these. Not having to worry about research or buying tons of aftermarket stuff was really refreshing. Along with a couple of newly purchased military historical publications I was soon back at the bench again. Most activity has since concentrated on both of Ryefield Model’s Pz.IV Ausf J's. They are most excellent kits. The 2 in 1 kit is now fully built and I am currently working on their interior kit (my first) These are to have the very last factory applied hard edge camo schemes so here's hoping the paint booth gets a battering early on in 2024. Merry Xmas and all the best for 2024. My one little victory

The Zimm considering it was for another brand has worked out well. I am slowly working through an early Dragon Tiger II myself and as well as the bolts missing on the Zim optioned rear hatch, Dragon's moulded on Zimmerit, as yours does, covered behind the exhausts. No Zim was applied directly behind each pipe!. A bitch to remove the moulded on Dragon plastic but perhaps easier with your decals if not allready too late. Pic from another modellers build but you can see the areas that require removal

Thank you

What has changed with this kit? Have they added parts are are they just new moulds. The last one I built was a Matchbox 1/76 scale in about 1977 🙃

Can't beat a Tamiya build to just have some fun at the bench. They are great antidote’s to complex builds

Looking good Stef. Just caught up on your progress. I have a Dragon Tiger I in the stash but every time I drag it off the shelf and mull over the instruction sheet my brain freezes. There is just way too much going on! When does the GB you mention plan to start?

Cheers buddy. I can't recall a kit going together this smoothly for quite some time. It is very refreshing. So refreshing I just bought the interior kit today for a steal. I plan to build this kids play mobile with it😁 It has a real mishmash of Ausf J features for such a late production vehicle but its all in the kit. Trans hatch grab handles but bolt on hull side lifting hooks. Extended side lower towing eyes but still with four return rollers. Some gas detector panels still intact but the front spare track bar absent. Although most pioneer tools look to have been pilfered there is at least one horizontal mesh screens present (below the open engine hatch cover) which is unusual to see in position. I fancy popping it on a vignette with a few kids on it (the Stalingrad children playing set should do the trick) along with the marked tree that its nudged over. I'm getting way ahead of myself now though 🤣

I'll take a look at your E8 build Wow! That's a lot of parts clean up!😲 Los