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Tim Brangham

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  1. Thank you everyone. Am sure there will be some differences on the build side, no longitudinal seams on cars, but used to PE and resin parts, although most of the PE for cars is white metal not brass, but hopefully no major problems but will wait till start building before asking any more questions. Really is finishing that will be the major difference and as Ray mentions decal application and final finish will be different, I’m used to light coat of gloss clear coat then decals then thicker final gloss clear coat followed by polishing so think I’ll start with the ‘painting & finishing techniques’ book.
  2. Thanks Colin, regarding painting will mostly use an airbrush and currently leaning towards Mr Color lacquer acrylics, you are right about brushing Tamiya acrylics although adding a flow improver makes them brushable. I’ll have another look at the three books, probably buy one then decide if worth getting the others.
  3. Thanks Mark was actually just looking at that on Amazon and also this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Painting-Finishing-Techniques-Osprey-Modelling/dp/1846032636/ref=pd_lpo_14_img_2/261-9315394-1928655?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1846032636&pd_rd_r=79b7613c-65ab-4009-8595-6ca73b81d6fc&pd_rd_w=W80uj&pd_rd_wg=6ox9X&pf_rd_p=d8b3a5b8-7766-4dff-b57a-24ee5d46250d&pf_rd_r=AB0VGZ14VNMPP4D61CZV&psc=1&refRID=AB0VGZ14VNMPP4D61CZV
  4. Thanks for the above Troy, think it’s a bit early to get too hung up on exact colour matches etc but I’ll save those for later. Tend to agree with you about ‘the latest trend’ but still interested in techniques for painting and then deciding which I might use so it looks how I want it to.
  5. Thanks for the suggestions, sounds like probably wouldn’t go wrong with Eduard, recent Airfix or Tamiya. Would still be interested in any links or suggested reading on painting WWII aircraft.
  6. Thanks Mark, I’d prefer one with British markings but seems Eduard do quite a few different Spitfires so having a look at what others are available.
  7. Thanks Colin, never heard of ICM so did a quick search and found a few not great comments about their Spitfire kits on here as regards fit, although not sure If it was specifically the VII. maybe should have said reasonable for me as up to about £20, all the car kits I build tend to be £30+ and usually add a few extras on top although don’t want to do this with first plane build.
  8. Started model building again about 4 years ago but so far all Grand Prix or endurance racing cars, back in the distant past used to build WWII planes and AFVs mainly 1/72 planes and 1/35 AFVs. Have decide that want to try a plane in 1/48 probably a British fighter as colours schemes and camouflage seem to be better choice for a first attempt? Was amazed at the choice and different makes now available so looking for bit of advice of what would be a good first choice, not overly expensive but decent quality. For the cars I build I use Tamiya acrylics plus some Mr Metal and Alclad with Zero paints base coats and clear coats, apart from the metallics and Tamiya blacks am going to have to buy new paints for this so would prefer something that doesn’t require a huge number of different colours to start of with, currently thinking that will probably use Mr Color but any other suggestions welcome. Also any links or references for a starter building WWII planes would be appreciated. The painting techniques for cars vs planes seems to be very different, no panel shading and closest come to weathering is some washes on engines in the older cars and gloss body work. Input/advice much appreciated.
  9. The regulator already has a moisture trap, not sure if I’m getting my male and female connections mixed up (never a good idea) think the inlet on the regulator is actually female and the outlet on the tank is male. Just found some 1/4 to 1/8 adaptors so might be simpler than I thought as could then use an existing hose and quick connects.
  10. Am about to move my painting area to another room in the house which has better light and easier ventilation for my small spray booth. Like the idea of having the regulator and pressure gauge attached to an airbrush holder which will be clamped to the table, it will mean don’t have to keep bending down to adjust and check the pressure and also means I can keep the compressor tucked away under the table. Most of the time will be able to leave the holder and regulator in place on the table but on occasions will have to take it off. In view of above it would be easier to have a quick connect body attached to the input on the regulator and then have a hose attached to the tank output on the compressor with a male quick connect on the other end. I think this would require a 1/4 bsp thread quick connector setup on on end of the hose with 1/4 female connection on the end to attach to the tank, I believe this is the size used for air tools but is anyone aware of any issues this might cause.
  11. After reading replies here and watching quite a few online reviews plus some advice from Martin at Air-Craft.net I now have 2 Procon Boy airbrushes the PS290 and PS289 plus upgraded my compressor to a Sparmax 610h. My next job is base coat then clear on a 1/20 McLaren MP4/5b am very interested to see how the PS290 works for this.
  12. I emailed Martin at Air-craft.net about the PS290 and 610H and he said it should work fine for models.
  13. Well looks like back to square one on the trigger grip as Hermes appear to have lost my bargain TR2 in transit somewhere. So now thinking of getting a Procon Boy PS-290 instead but understand they need a bit more flow from the compressor if you use the fan pattern, I have just bought a Sparmax 610H compressor does anyone use one of these or similar with a PS90? Still thinking over the smaller one but will wait till the trigger grip sorted before deciding.
  14. Not much chance of sourcing one from the US. Had another think about what would be the best second brush to compliment the TR2, at the moment I don’t do a lot of fine detail spraying but would like something that would be good for this if I need it in the future. At the moment it would mainly be used for acrylics so not sure going for a 0.2 is the best option so am thinking a 0.3 might be better. Was tempted by the Sparmax Max3 which would leave me some money to put towards a new compressor with a tank but reading/watching reviews am now leaning towards the Mr Procon Boy PS 289. Id be interested anyone’s opinion if they use a 0.2 for acrylics, mainly Tamiya before I make a final decision.
  15. I’ve pre ordered the rerelease of Tamiya’s Mercedes C9 and also Fujimi’s Williams FW14b. Not seen anything about the Williams being released again, was due to ship this week but not heard yet.
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