Pinehilljoe

why is it all the good things are hazardous.

Superb! The figures are great. you should do a youtube on how to paint figures! Side note. Growing up, our town's American Legion Post had the towns little league fields and an M-4 A3E8, and M-16 Half Track for static display. After a game we would spend hours playing on the tank and half track.

thanks, I am guessing the life span of a Panther was short, sometimes you can over weather rust.

The Tamiya Panther A. My first attempt at armour. I did not weather yet, still debating on trying this. The crew painting is in work, when the tank commander is in place, I'll place the ring mounted MG-42. I used Vallejo paints with and Iwata airbrush. I sprayed a base of Testors flat black before airbrushing.

Here is how I think they go on.

I'm in the middle of Tamiya's Panther kit. The spare tracks have me puzzled, can someone show an up close photo of how they installed them, if you have built the kit? thanks.

I posted a link from flickr Still re-learning the hobby. I hand painted the canopy after giving up on masking and not willing to buy a masking set. I used the Vallejo IJN Paint set, sprayed with an Iwata Neo airbrush. The canopy was painted with Testors dark green enamel.

My second build since getting back into the hobby after 40 years. https://imgur.com/a/6Fz6J6B https://imgur.com/a/6Fz6J6B

Yes good and bad feedback is welcome. I did use the microscale fluids, but the decal adhesive did not seal the decals

This is my first complete build in 40 years. I built it stock from the box. Painting was with an Iwata gravity airbrush. I practiced weathering with pastels and oils, and overdid the weathering. I purchased the kit on eBay, and the 40 year old decals did not hold up, I should have bought a sheet from Microscale. \ https://imgur.com/a/eDQGPzC

Very nice! I can almost smell the hydraulic fluid in the wheel wells!

hi, what colors and paint brand did you use?

I've made some progress. I made a parts bender from a steel rule using steps from a YouTube video. Using the tool, I bent the first depth charge rails. Also laser cut a paint rack using a model from thingiverse to store the Tamiya paints. The tool works fine, and other than buying a $8 steel rule, all the bits and pieces were scrounged in my garage work shop, two bolts, wing nuts, and springs. If you make a similar tool, remember its very hard to drill into stainless steel rulers.

I'm going to be starting the Tamiya PoW and have decided to go with Tamiya paints. That said I have found I really like Vallejo paints, I find they spray from the airbrush very well, I like the dropper bottle packaging, it saves a lot of waist in paint. For Tamiya paints I bought a bag of plastic disposable eye droppers to measure out the paint, but still there is waist. The other reason I'm currently using Tamiya is Vallejo paints are all but gone from the shelf in my local shop, the owner said its another victim of the pandemic, paints are not shipping to the US as often. You should thin the paints, and the only way to get a sense of how much thinning is needed is to just start mixing, thinning and spraying. Try buying an inexpensive airplane kit and start spraying and getting a feel of your air brush. I have a higher end gravity feed Iwata and a cheap $10 US siphon brush. I use the cheap siphon brush for spraying lacquer enamels, so if I can't clean it well, I won't feel bad and can just toss it. I usually start at about 50/50 thinning for both. IMHO airbrushing is all about practice.

First steps of dry fitting the hull, and getting set up. Starting with an old table in one of my kid's bedrooms. I still have the old tackle box that I used to store all my modeling tools. I have an airbrush station in the garage. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOpULLI8aBmtAKEZb7CjYOim3MZn1uk4fZjrcIM Is it possible to post images in a forum post or are only URLs allowed?

Hello, I was an avid 1/48 aircraft and 1/700 builder years ago, I also built Stirling's model of the Missouri in 1980 (1/200 scale I think, it was about 4 feet long), all balsa construction, Radio Controlled. Stirling was a balsa ship kit manufacturer, now defunct. I added working lights to the Missouri using a 555 Integrated Circuit to turn the lights on and off; the circuit design and build was my high school physics project, the Missouri went along for the ride. Then kids came a long and stopped, now that we're empty nesters, I thought getting back into the hobby would pass pandemic time. I purchased Tamiya's PoW and Fletcher in 1/350. I thought start smaller with the destroyer, for around $35US, it won't be too disappointing if it doesn't look right. I also have Tom's Model Works PE kit for the Fletcher. I have average model skills, a couple airbrushes that I use frequently. Among other things, I got into restoring old Matchbox cars to pass 2020. Matchboxes are fun in that in one weekend, you can start and finish a car and get almost instant satisfaction. Any basic tips for building the Fletcher or ships? It looks like build up goes like you are building a real ship, -Build up the hull, and paint -Lay the deck, paint -build up the super structure and paint -final fitting out and painting My hope is to use the PE brass for at least hatches, and railing, if I don't get frustrated with brass origami, try ladders, gun tubs, and more. Is one of the special mini bending brakes a must for PE parts? Even online these seem to cost more than the models. Any tips appreciated!

You did a 4.0 job on the Fletcher, Bravo Zulu! I just ordered the kit and PE Brass. Could you list the paint colors you used if you have time?

Nice work, I just ordered the kit.