Jump to content

keiron99

Members
  • Posts

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by keiron99

  1. I have a cheapish (Timbertek or something) airbrush. I've only used it on 7 or 8 models and so far it's been OK for the money. However, recently, the spray is fanning too wide. Even with a 0.2mm needle / nozzle. I got some new (cheapo) needles from Amazon and the problem persists. This is even when I get in really close. The additional problem when I get in close is that even on a low pressure (say 12 PSI), the air pressure blows the paint across the surface of the model. Is it something I'm doing wrong or do I need a replacement airbrush?
  2. Thanks, Colin. Much appreciated. So I can just use bog standard white spirit like I get from Screwfix?
  3. I have some bog standard cheapo artist oil paints and a bottle of "Standard Cellulose Solvent Paint Thinner" i bought from Amazon. Could I mix them to make panel washes? Is it the right type of thinner? And would it be ok to use over models that have been varnished and NMF models painted with AK metal finish?
  4. I'm building a Lightning and, after a lot of pain, have got something resembling a Natural Metal Finish using AK paints from my airbrush. But I'm unsure now how to apply decals. I've read a few posts saying there's no need to apply a gloss varnish before applying the decals. That seems to make sense. But should I also avoid using the Micro Set and Micro Sol which I usually use when applying decals? I'm conscious that they often leave their own residue when I use them. Any advice would be welcomed, thanks!
  5. Wish I'd known that before! (I guess I could squirt some into a small bottle.)
  6. I'm building a 1/72 Airfix Electric Lightning and the fuselage mouldings are not great, to say the least. They leave a horrendous gap. (Searching online and on Youtube, everyone has this problem with the kit.) Now I'm usually OK at disguising seams. I have a selection of fillers, putties etc and sometimes use superglue. But these gaps are so long and wide, that when I sand down, it's not "uniformly flat", if that makes sense? I normally use spongey sanding sticks but all they seem to do is follow the contours of the filler: so while it does sand down the filler, it's still following the contours of the putty that I applied. When I spray on the primer, you can see all the undulations. I've filled and sanded and primed about 4 times now and it's not really getting any better. Is it my technique? Should I perhaps do it with a solid metal file so it doesn't follow the contours of the filler?
  7. OK thanks, sounds like a good idea, I assume it doesn't just evaporate then?
  8. It's amazing that I never knew there was such a thing as "accelerator" for superglue until a few weeks back. Anyway, I got some. And it's an enormous spray can. How am I suppose to use it? I have tested it (not on a model) and it works great, curing the glue instantly (I always thought superglue was meant to stick instantly and always been disappointed it doesn't) but the can sends out an enormous cloud of whatever-it-is. It would completely soak an entire model, rather than just zap the bit I'm trying to glue. Did I buy the wrong thing? I was rather hoping it would have a straw/tube type thing to direct the fluid, like WD40 cans do.
  9. Does anyone have any recommendations for so-called "weathering stencils" for airbrushes? I'm not sure how commonly used they are but I fancy giving them ago to try to improve the effects I'm achieving on my 1/72 aircraft; notably some "depth" and realism to the paint finish. I've only seen them from a couple of suppliers: AK and a Chinese company called "Liang" (on ebay and Ali Express). They're surprisingly expensive (about £8) for a piece of card with some random holes in! Just wondering if anyone had any experience of them?
  10. After a couple of disappointing efforts at getting a natural metal finish, I’m determined to make a better job of my Electric Lightning. I have a few basic questions which I'd be grateful for some help with: - What sort of paint is the AK Extreme Metal that I bought? Is it a lacquer, enamel or acrylic? - What do I use to thin AK extreme metal? (I have some Vallejo airbrush thinner - but maybe that’s just for acrylics?) - What varnish should I use, if any? I’ve seen varnishes used for preventing damage when applying/removing masking tape but I’m unsure what to use, if any. Thanks for your help!
  11. Thank you @Ray_W that looks fantastic, in fact it was your original posts that I saw with this model that made me realise just how crappy my effort was and that better could be achieved!
  12. Right. I've added some plastic spoons to the Tesco order and I'm going to practise, practise, practise!
  13. You know, that might be a big part of the problem. It's Vallejo gloss black surface primer. Having just tested it again, it is not glossy and it is certainly not smooth. Any recommendations for alternatives? It's too late to save this Mig, but I also have a P51 in the stash for which I'd like to perfect my technique before I start!
  14. I'm building a MIG and trying to get a natural finish. I have tried airbrushing with Vallejo Metal Color, but in truth, it's really not much better than the bog standard aluminium or even just silver. So I got some AK Extreme Metal Aluminium. But I can't even tell it apart from the Vallejo. I don't understand this because some of the finishes I've seen on this forum and on Youtube genuinely look like metal. This is spraying over gloss black, so I can't really understand what else I can do - maybe just lower my expectations? One thing I was thinking is maybe I am spraying at the wrong pressure because I'm getting a rough, textured finish. What pressure should I be spraying at?
  15. As it happens, I went to Element Games yesterday here in Stockport ad I was in town for something else. I've never been before even though it's only 15 minutes away. The sheer range of stuff available there is astonishing (though it felt like I had entered a different universe...a very curious place, but looks like a successful business model judging by the number of people there at 9 o'clock at night, sat round tables painting their warcraft characters - quite a sight really). Anyway, I picked up my Model Air Medium Sea Grey (71.307). A mere £2.48. Or so I thought I did... In my haste and confusion it seems I mistakenly picked up the bog standard Sea Grey. FFS, as they say. "Why didn't you write it down?" my wife said, not even trying to suppress her laughter. I'm assuming the regular Sea Grey is perhaps just a touch darker than Medium Sea Grey and I can add a drop or two of white...?
  16. I'm about to start building an Airfix 1/72 Mosquito. I've chosen the colour scheme with the grey underside (571 squadron). I already have the correct Vallejo Model Air colours for the upper side: Dark Green (324) and Ocean grey (273). But I do not have the correct colour for the underside, which is meant to be Medium Sea Grey, However I don't want to buy yet more paint! I do have "Light Grey" and "Sky Grey" and even a "Sky Type S" available. Keep in mind I'm not too concerned about authenticity (sorry about that) ..... which of "Light grey" or "Sky Grey" would be the nearest equivalent to the Medium Sea Grey? Or are they waaaaay off?
  17. Thanks all, heating it up and then swashing it about in boiling water worked!
  18. My Revell Contacta Professional - the one with the needle applicator - has been on the shelf for a few months while I've taken a break from modelling. Now, I've discovered the needle is blocked. I've removed it and tried soaking in all sorts of liquids like IPA, window cleaner and boiling water but I can't unclog it. I don't have anything thin enough to go up it to try and force it out. Anyone got any ideas? (Obvs answer is buy a new one but this stuff is surprisingly expensive, and I want to use it today!)
  19. Thanks everyone. Really annoyed this morning. Got up early to do some spraying, and the hose blew apart from the connector. The hose is one that came with the £22 Timbertech airbrush I bought with the compressor. The connector is basically just pushed on and crimped. Damnit!
  20. Yes, that model pictured is like mine. It's really difficult to get a hold of and quite stiff. I believe the "drain valve" or whatever it's called underneath the tanks should also be released occasionally to let out moisture trapped in there. To be fair, it seems like a reasonable bit of kit for £78.
  21. You're telling me it's hard to pull! Access is restricted by the foot of the compressor (which, on my model, attaches to the tank). Anyways, I ordered one of those quick release valve with the "MAC" valve on it, which seems like a fiver well spent.
  22. Thanks everyone. I'll get a quick release connector. I notice that some connectors have an "adjustment control valve" built into them. What are they exactly? Is it instead of having to use the pressure gauge on the compressor itself?
  23. I've been using a handheld, self-contained rechargeable airbrush until now. I've just treated myself to a compressor with a tank (Fengda FD 186). However, when I remove the airbrush, by screwing off the hose (from either the tank or the airbrush), the air in the tank just comes spewing out, blowing stuff across my workbench. That doesn't seem right to me, or is it? I was also thinking of getting a "quick release" connector. Would one of them stop that happening (as well as making connection and disconnection easier - the thread seems like it could easily be stripped).
  24. Thanks, lots of good tips. I think I'll get a little bottle.
×
×
  • Create New...