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Gordon Parker

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  • Location
    Chilliwack BC, Canada
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    Anything with a Maple Leaf, and stuff.

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    chilliwackslotcarpalace@yahoo.ca

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  1. Hi Troy, Thanks as usual. Sorry for the slower than normal reply, stuff happens sometimes (like I fell off my bicycle and cracked a few ribs, ouch). Of course I do understand what a Blind flying panel However, having read here and other places that there were some differences in the IP's I wanted to double check what I was seeing. I had to wear my magnifying visor to compare the Yahu IP to the FAA pilot notes (found here of course) and could find no changes at all. So measure twice cut once eh? I do like to check these things thouroghly and you guys are the most knowledgeable and helpful bunch I have come across. There were some differences in cockpit fittings (radio and seat harness were to British standards) and photos of the "Time Capsule Fighter" (arriving soon I hope) show numerous additions and placements (flare rack). Is the FAA Museums Corsair totally original for wartime and were there detail changes between the Vought built MkII that I want to build and a Goodyear built MkIV? So more variables added. Best regards, Gord
  2. FAA Corsair Insrument Panel? As I understood it, there were substantial differences I was starting on the drawings to create a FAA IP for the Tamiya Corsair. Looking at the Pilots notes, images of the FG-1A Corsair in Yeovilton and comparing those to the Yahu instrument panel I can't see much of a difference. The side boards look basically the same as well. Switches, throttle, trim wheels etc are all in the same place as I would have expected. Yeovilton's Corsair has a flare rack on the right hand side, the map pockets are different and I am sure I will discover more as I dig into this. So what am I seeing here? Should the ip's be different or have Tamiya and Yahu used a FAA instrument panel as a patter? Cheers, Gord
  3. Thanks on both counts Jack. The chance of me getting anything much going on the Corsair before the end of this year or next seems to be slipping away. Work has been piling up a bit and I really need to finish at least some of the 72nd scale kits, (Kittyhawk, Hurricane I, Spit I, Spit V, Spit VIII and PZL II) I have on the bench and at least one 1/35 scale piece of armour I have PROMISED to finish before Christmas (likely "Bomb" of the Sherbrooke Fueseliers). So other than a bit of preliminary work and maybe a start on the instrument panel drawings (I use Corel Draw 11 btw, also in vector, which of course I could send your way) your offer woiuld be much appreciated. Maybe we can share the cost of the PE as I will need several sets in 1/72 anyway and the vector artwork is completely scalable. Cheers and thanks, Gord
  4. Just a quick update: Ordered Airscale instrument faces and bezels so l can start on an FAA ip and have started to draw the intakes and try to turn them into something I can work with. If I can figure out how to add images (honestly I have no desire to use a cloud with this already overtaxed POS lenovo). Suggestions? Not sure how I will tackle the rest of the cockpit tub. I feel very reluctant to cut that beautiful Tamiya kit apart. I got a brief message from Roy at BarracudaCals.com: Regarding the 1/72nd Spitfire set; it is being updated with an new seat and floor! I can fianlly stop hoarding my last few sets! (I had upwards of 20 at one time). No word regarding FAA conversion sets yet but I did write him back outlining what what we have discussed here: Cockpit details, Instrument panel, wingtips and side scoops/ventral exhaust (?). Anything I missed? Gord PS my partner thinks I need to get off the logging road of the information highway and figure out how to use "One Drive" for photo sharing on here. I made with my patented Mexican Sad Eye Painting face (check it out, it was really a thing) and Jeany caved and said she will do the photos for me.
  5. Hi Jack, as I recall from my retouching days Kodachrome definitely had a warm shift (increased intensity for reds and yellows) . So we had to use "warm versions of any colours for retouching. Fuji for instance required "cool" colours, can't remember what we did for AGFA Cheers, Gord
  6. Hi Jamie You don't by any chance produce a colour chip book for FAA colours do you? Something say that could be shipped to Canada? I think that would be something worth carrying in my store. On this crap computer (cursed lenovo laptop) those all look basically grey to me. Cheers, Gord Cheers, Gord
  7. My crappy lenovo is no help at all for that, I need numbers to work with or I am completely lost. Warm is a term left over from my photo retouching days (when we still used gouaches for gorb's sake!) Warm colours have a slightly red-yellow shift and cool colours have a blue-green shift, but I suspect you know that.
  8. OK Great and thanks, I have a couple of things started in 2020 that will qualify then! Cheers Gord
  9. Hi Troy, Indeed, I think you make a point on both counts. I am glad you have chimed in on this as I must admit my colour vision isn't as acute as it was since having to deal with my diabetes which has included the development of rosacea and that had caused some serious vision problems. All of that is improving since I completely changed my dietary habits and get more exercise but still my eyesight is not what it was. I guess being 66 doesn't help in that department either BTW I do like the tag lines at the end of your posts! Cheers, Gord
  10. Hi Jamie and thanks so much for this. I went straight to my FS deck and looked it up, definitely some green in there but strikes me as basically as a warm and very light grey. Indeed a very subtle colour. Great stuff and again my thanks, Gord
  11. Hi Jack, Well I live near Hope (about 30 miles west in Chilliwack actually) so if the book doesn't add anything I can always write the museum staff or perhaps some intrepid modeller can make a Covid safe expidition and photo the underside of the tail. Or I will just stick with my best guess. Otherwwise still collating. Cheers, and thanks as usual, Gord
  12. I would LOVE to be added to this list if it's not too late, I am suere I can finish something! Do these have to be fresh ish starts or can I finish models that have been lurking unloved on my workbench? Cheers Gord
  13. Thanks so much for this Jack, it is fascinating stuff. BTW I have spoken to a couple of people I know who do car body work and they both say that lacquers would work with virtually pigment. That stuff will dissolve just about anything. I asked about colour shift and they weren't too sure but agreed it "could make the colours warmer. Cheers, Gord I have ordered a copy of "Time Capsule Fighter" . One of the things I am most looking forward to is that in removing surface layers of paint they found the green/grey camo on the tail. Hopefully they have some pictures/thoughts of the pale green underneath. G
  14. Hi Troy, I tried the Xtracrylix as well and really didn't like them. I have some AK's but am yet to try them. I do like Gunze/Mr Hobby #71 Mid Stone, 72 Dark Earth and 73 Dark Green (in fact I think I saw them recommended on here) but I don't like their Greys or Sky. Model Air 307 gave a decent underside grey that mtched 72 and 73 quite well I thought I can't spray the oil or lacquer based paints at all as I react quite badly to them. The last time I tried I had to cover myself in calamine lotion. The Horror! So Colourcoats are out for me anyway but would love to get a book of their paint chips. When the first acrylics came out I was really doing a happy dance. After all, it's alcohol, I can deal with that. A friend of mine ordered a lot of Hatakas direct from Poland, I will see if he can make me some colour chips. Thanks again Troy Cheers, Gord
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