Fozz

The original front springs are too strong. If you shorten them they will be stiffer. It's easier to buy weaker springs and reduce the shock lengrh with a plastic plug above the pin. Rear springs are OK, just add the plug. You need about 2 mm plug to get the right ride height.

Nice paint job. I wish I had done more on part painting but sadly I don't have an air brush or experience yet. Most of the parts are unseen so not critical but it would have been a better job. Hardest part is finding the right colour. There is little reference to advise what colour they should be and a modelling paint equivalent. Airfix seem to have mastered it.

The problem I found was fitting the rear body. it snags on the window trim bottom edge, so from the rear, put your thumbs into the wheel arches and pull outwards to slip the front edge over the window trims and locate the top tags at the same time. It helps if both door sills are loose. Press down on the plastic deck to make sure it snaps under the window trim. This will take the tension off the rear body. Nice idea fitting mags to the centre caps. I managed to reclaim the thread using a fresh screw and run it full depth. If that does not work, you can helicoil the hole (Bolhoff fasteners) which needs a 2.6 hole and helicoil tap for an M2.5 helicoil. The kit is expensive but it does work.

I have fitted the rear body. You have to spread the side to pass over the rear windows. It's on finally but the side screw stripped. Any one know how to repair an M2.6 thread?

You're welcome. I had spare springs so tried them on the rear. I found the rear springs are longer and much thinner wire than the front. My new springs were not quite stiff enough, so I put the originals back in, they are about right but you still need the plug to lower it. The size is set to how much you want to lower the ride height by. Your rear pic looks much higher than I expected.

Try Lee Spring, They have branches across US. The weight distribution is quite equal, front is 3.65kg, rear is 3.58kg. The front is 1.82kg or 17.88N per shock. The compression is 3.59mm so spring rate around 4.47N/mm. The springs I used were 4.55N/mm which converts to OD 0.413", wire size 0.05", free length 1", spring rate 25.98lb/in. Cat no LC 047EF 09M $7.04. Don't forget to add the blocks aBovey the pin. You will have to check the free length for the rear springs, but the duty should be the same.

Sorry still having problems uploading pics. Attached url's Pics of car with body parts located for weighing Before mods https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuslQ4h8JbG9j3uiitNmLZeMqaj After shock mod and new springs https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuslQ4h8JbG9j30xUrtmTfEOTxte https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuslQ4h8JbG9j35umXD5NMbSEB7J

Thanks Dinkey, both front calipers are slightly bent. The wheel fits but just touches the caliper. Nice idea cutting and bending the casting, but I am not confident in doing this. The casting could split and then you are sunk. For me I am making wheel spacers to sit between wheel and disc. 0.4 - 0.5mm should do. Re shocks mod, I received new springs and fitted them. They are spot on. I did not bore out the top shock part as I need a pedestal drill so accepted the limited travel. I could do it later with a small amount of strip down. You can get the springs from flexo springs.com part ref M205705 £1.36 each + vat and post. (They have a £9 min order charge) This is the same length as the original but 2.3N/mm. Don't forget to fit the plug above the pin as per earlier post. Looks so much better now.

Re wheel fitment, Dinkey advised about the skewed front calipers. This looks like a casting problem rather than warped caliper pins. Thankfully, my discs will fit without scraping but the inside face of the wheel spokes catch the caliper. The only fix I can come up with is to insert a shim between wheel and disk, perhaps 0.5mm thick and glue it to the disc face. You could make the bore smaller to avoid the sloppy fit of the disc. Hopefully the tyre might just miss the wheel arch. The wheel/disc fitment is abysmal attempt Mr Pocher, did you get bored? The disc could be captive on the hub with a thin nut and the wheel much simpler to fit.

Got it thanks. A bit of a pain undoing the back end, but it needs to be done. I am sure softer springs are the answer.

I have located springs which might work. £1.36 each, so going to try them out. See attached mod. https://1drv.ms/b/s!AuslQ4h8JbG9jx0NwvUQb053N1js

I produced a 3D cad modelling of the parts and added a central screw into a modified bottom part. Another part added at the top of the spring. This is threaded to adjust the top outer part up or down to set the shock length. It's 61mm top/bottom fixing and it needs to be 58/59mm. The inner screw adjusts the spring tension. I had the cost back today to remake the parts by CNC machiring. It's about £100 each on two off but £50 each on 10 off! The other solution is to increase the depth of the original top part to increase the travel of the shock and to add a 2mm piece of plastic at the top of the slot above the pin. The spring needs to be weaker. These are about £12 each, possibly less in quantity. The rear shocks also need doing, but I think the same new spring can be used and plastic plug for the slot. It is quite an investment but considering the kit cost and time, it might be worthwhile. I will post pics shortly.

Hi Dinkey, Re shocks again, I stripped one down and found it only moves 3mm. You have to remove the paint and file the outside of the slotted part of the bottom component so it slides without jamming. You should get almost 6mm of travel. Rather than cutting the spring, cut a tiny piece of plastic 2mm wide and jam it into the top end of the slot. Compress the spring and insert the pin below the plastic. This reduces the shock length and should align the wheel arch and tyre when the front body is fitted. You can do the same with the rear shocks also. I have new shocks in work which provide a lower spring rate with adjustable tension and adjustable ride height. The shocks provided just don't look or feel right.

Thanks for the tips. I thought my shocks had a tiny hex grub screw to hold in place. Closer inspection shows its just a dowel. I expect it will be hard to remove as the drift used has deformed the pin end. I can probably get shorter and less stiff springs made but they might be bit pricey. I will find out. Re paint....hiroboy.com do metalic huracan green paint. They are in the UK.

Re the Ride Height, it is way off. I think it's 3mm too high. I will know more when I take them apart and I can see you have separated them. Is it a dowel pin or grub screw? The spring rate is way too high also so maybe a weaker spring with a slightly shorter spring will do. Sorry for the delay in posting progress. Still fighting the upload.

Thanks for your help, there seems to be a lot of filing to do. I will give it a try. I had thought of cad modelling the aperture and making new lenses but the profile is too complex. For the steering, I tried from the side but after an hour of faffing with the screw which kept falling off, it was easier disconnecting the track rod and rack mounting to drop the pinion into place. For the cost of this kit, I would have expected machine cut gearing and a more precise fit for the pinion and ball joints. The shock absorbers could be made with screw adjustment to set the height rather than having to cut the springs down which are way too stiff anyway. The mechanical parts - steering, transmission, suspension, bonnet and hatch hinges could be so much better Mr Pocher. The discs are not located on anything apart from the wheels and the side radiators are missing hoses, there should be two per, surely. For the windows, mine were OK. The marks could be from the film which is slightly tacky. Try cleaning with a non reactive solution maybe alcohol based if they don't wipe clean. I used spectacle cleaning spray. I will post some pics shortly. I have a library of progress. Just the rear lights to fix and waiting for my display case. (Not the pocher one, it's way too small to do it justice)

Hi All, Fozz here. I am new to this forum, having reached the closing stages of my Huracan Verde mantis. I also had deformed rear cockpit bulkhead and battery panel, but not too bad thankfully. The biggest problem was a deformed RH door and window trim. The supplied double sided adhesive is useless which caused the trim and windows to fall off. I resorted to hand cutting new adhesive to hold all in place. Has anyone checked the rear light lenses. Mine have proven impossible to fit and seem at least 1mm too long - both sides. Not sure how this can be resolved unless Pocher have tooled a fix. Assembly has been challenging with wrong references and errors in the manual. The steering rack is impossible to fit as instrucred. Fit the gear early on but check the gear and rack run smoothly. I had to file the teeth extensively. Leave the LH side rack fixing loose until after the subframe is fitted. You can fiddle the gear onto the rack with a thin screwdriver and fix the rack mounting last. Make sure the wheel and rack are central before fixing. Has anyone had similar issues?