THEscaleSHOW

Hello all After I finished the tires for the ICM kit, I was asked by Matchbox fans if I also have some for the caravan. So I decided to create some. Since the Matchbox kit only contains the wheels including the rim, I created them in 2 variants (early and late) as complete wheels. Everything is matched to the kit, so that you can swap without problems 😁 What do you think? MD Much better 😁 Spare, rear early and front wheel Very small 🤓 See you!

Hello folks The work continues, today it will be dirty 😁 Since I am building an autumn-winter scene, there is a lot of dirt in the game. Next week, the figures and accessories are the turn. BTW: the remote MG is also finished and my pride and joy 😊 MD The dirtiest places are prepared. Also the wheels. The upper hull is protected from paint splashes. Toothpicks and brushes are the necessary tools. Finer splashes on top are applied in a more controlled manner. The result seen from below. And from the front. Due to the missing skirts, dirt could splash upwards. The finished MG incl. weathering. The belt drum was also weathered. An overall picture in better quality 🤓 See you!

Top job so far-i love this lorry 😊 MD

Hello folks Thanks for your comments, I really appreciate it! As announced, today is about the painting of the exhaust, scratches and rust. I have already applied a bit of base mud in preparation for the later dirt. Last but not least, I can proudly present my self-designed remote MG 34, which took me many days of work and well over 1000 steps on the CAD. It consists of 9 single parts and you should show a steady hand when building it. But it is not more difficult than assembling small PE parts 😉 There will also be a StuG variant (early and late) in the future. MD First deep scratches are applied to the primer with rust-brown acrylic paint and a sponge. This is followed by highly diluted layers of light grey, grey-blue and grey-white to imitate the zinc surface. When the colours are dry, make a mapping with pure white to create more contrast. Now it already looks like zinc plate. You can stop the treatment at any time, depending on the desired degree of weathering. As with multi-coloured camouflage paints, a filter is also used here for unification. The exhaust straight from the factory. First pinwash. Rust spots with paynes grey, dark brown and dark orange follow. Refinement is done with rust pigments. Since every rusty exhaust looks different - there are countless pictures on the www - you can hardly go wrong. The only important thing is not to mix the individual colours into a reddish-brown soup 😁 Scratches and rust on the hatches. Also on the jack. Oil paint on the tool box. On edges and corners with wear and tear. The first mud has been applied. The finished Remote MG 34 in place. Here the shield version with notches for the Gurtsack. Unfortunately, the lever for the MG clamp broke off during assembly - this will be corrected later 🤓 Print resolution 0.025mm. See you!

Crazy guy 😁 MD

Hello all After I did a pinwash last time, today it's about accentuating individual elements of the Hetzer. You can really let off steam here, since there are many angles, edges and straight surfaces like hatches etc.. Since the model is small and you should see something even from a certain distance, the work is absolutely necessary, but be careful and do not overdo it 🧐 If I still like it in a few days, the chipping and exhaust will follow 😁 MD I use only 6 oil paints. You can seal them in a zipper bag so they don't dry out. I start with the dark colors and use them to treat the angles and edges of each flap and hatch. The camouflage spots are reworked with a red tone. Here the color is still fresh, but it dries matt. This is followed by the lightening of edges and raised areas. Do not use too much thinner. After about 10 min, you can blend it with the base color. A mask is also helpful here to create contrasts and not to mess up bordering areas. The result now shows the geometry of the Hetzer and the different color tones, such as the lighter plate at the bottom left. With the help of a light tone, faded color gradients are indicated on the plates and hatches in each center. To better highlight small closed hatches, their contours are painted in a light-dark contrast. See you!

Ciao Filippo I can understand that you can no longer move the shed. So then let the barrel show to the left, as others have already written. With the front door, I meant that you can see them better on the right (where the gate is now). Is just a nice detail 🙂 I will not show the 124 destroyed - unfortunately it was too late, because I had already finished the model. Actually, I wanted to build a version that was used after Italy and then I saw the picture with the pharmacy 😴 So I'll build a scene similar to yours from Soriano before it ended with him 😉 MD

Ciao Filippo The buildings are very cool! I am coincidentally also in the process of planning a suitable scene for my elephant and collect pictures of Soriano Nel Cimino 😀 I'm building number 124 and as you know it ended in front of the pharmacy. As for the orientation of the scene, you have to decide what the viewer should focus on. There are basic rules that I almost always use. In the western world, we read from left to right and top to bottom. That's why I always place the "most important" part of the model on the right. The view starts at the left edge of the picture, slowly moves to the right and thereby a kind of tension builds up in our brain (curiosity, etc.), which then comes to full expression at the right edge of the picture. In addition, regardless of the viewing direction, the image should build up from the front edge of the image to the back, i.e. it should become higher. This way you don't cover up your work. In your case, I would let the gun point to the left as in the last pictures, but also build the shed with the gate to the left and behind the house. So you can still see the beautiful front door on the right behind the tank as a sideshow and maybe place figures there. MD

Hello all Time for a new update of the Hetzer. After I applied the decals, a layer of matt clearcoat followed. Then details like jack and cutter were painted, the exhaust also got its zinc base color. Basically I start my weathering with a heavily diluted wash, which unifies the camouflage and hints at a first streaking effect. Followed by a pinwash to create raised details and crevices to create not dirt but shadows. I always mix my washes from oil paints, they allow for long processing time and corrections even in warm weather 😎 After finishing the work, you have a good overview of where accents still need to be set, areas highlighted or visually enhanced. Again, this is done with oil paints, using shadows and highlights (as in figure painting) to create contrasts that make the model look more alive. More about this in the next post 😉 MD If you compare the model with the last pictures, everything looks a bit more used now and the toy look is slowly disappearing. I always try not to overdo it with the wash, otherwise the finish suffers and it also becomes unrealistic. However, you can do a little more to compensate for the scale effect. I let the model speak to me in the company of a bottle of beer and in this case it said "I want to show you my big hatches" 😁 The Tam. Decals are good and as you can see the VMS softener did a great job on the bolt head. I painted the entire lower hull with what I consider to be the best shade of Mission Models Red Oxide Primer to create more variation. You can also see the subtle pinwash here. The details of the self-printed late rollers now come out well. In the front of the picture you can see the wheel from the kit. If you compare the drive sprocket (Tam. Camo Brown) with the idler wheel (MM Red Oxide Primer), you can see the difference. With such a small model the variety makes the difference 🤓 See you!

Hi Stef Just came across your post, DIY Zim is always a nice topic 😉 Green stuff and MS mix would be one way. Through GS you can work out the details well and MS provides the necessary "softness" to process. I always dust a tile with baby powder to roll out. You have to remove the excess powder with a brush before applying it to the model, otherwise there can be contact problems - but it actually always works. Have in any case a hopefully not too annoying work ahead of you. For me, a reason to fall back on Atak or to leave the fingers completely from the Zim 😁 https://atakmodel.istore.pl/en_US/p/35005-ZIMMERIT-TIGER-I-Mid-Late-Production-TAMIYA/22730679 MD

Thank you Nemanja IMHO, the black stripes were only painted directly at the factory on the later build lots with a welded driver's visor and new camouflage scheme (your pic above). But maybe some in the field repainted it 😉 MD

Hello John LT = Lacquer Thinner 😉

Hi Ed Very good painting! I can already feel the cold 🥶 Scratches and translucent shading are very well reproduced. Am curious about the result! MD

Hi Too bad that you have to start over with the painting. But that can happen, I have repainted some models 3-4 times. You should be satisfied in the end. As for the camouflage, you can easily do that with DIY stencils. You only need a small hole punch in the right scale, painter's tape and a smooth, slightly thicker plastic plate (zb. 5mm). https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08KW41SSM?tag=pixelwerker-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&keywords=lochpfeifen 1. stick a strip of painter's tape onto the plate. 2. cut out discs with the punch (a light stroke is enough) 3. peel off the tape (only the discs will remain on the plate). 4. apply color for the first discs on the model (for green and brown discs with yellow base you start with e.g. green). 5. When the entire model is green, mask the desired areas with the masks you created. 6. then apply brown and after drying mask off the desired areas (which should be brown). 7. finally apply yellow 8. remove masks and unify the entire camouflage with highly diluted yellow. 9. seal with clear varnish-finished Makes a little effort, but the result should be worth it 😉 MD

Hello all After checking the templates I decided to repaint the Hetzer 😩 My first attempt can be found more on the Jagdpanzer IV and to those the stencils fit very well. I created the round cloud shape with masking tape and tried to get a little closer to the BMM camouflage scheme. The predominant yellow didn't fit either, since green dominates most of the templates. With the current result I am much more satisfied than before - even if it is not 100% BMM style. If I'm honest, you don't even need stencils for it, it also works with a steady hand and brush. But not every model should look the same 😉 I will paint the details before the weathering begins. MD Step 1 was to apply the new green base color (Tam. Nato Green, Sky, Green-Yellow and Clear thinned with LT), brightened with Green-Yellow. This was followed by the brown spots (Tam. Red, Hull Red, Flesh, Clear and LT). The yellow spots I have outlined with individually punched discs masking tape and sprayed with Tam. Dark Yellow, Buff, White, Clear and LT. Then the small triangles, one after the other in the green and brown areas. The same with the green triangles-they are only in the yellow areas. The result. To unify everything a highly diluted layer of Buff, Smoke, Clear and 90% LT. See you!

You know what you are doing mate 👍😉 MD

I can confirm Ed - up to here it looks great! MD

I say yeh yeh, that's what I say 🎺 🎶 Very good idea! Was the band drunk when they loaded their equipment? 😁 Am curious about the painting! MD

Postscript: Today I painted the remaining parts and gave the armor scheme a layer of 90% diluted Buff. This unifies the colors and indicates fading. Tomorrow clear coat for protection, then follow oil colors. MD

Hello Pete https://dnmodels.com/product/paint-mask-set-german-disc-camo/ Expensive but reusable 😉

Hi Paul 60% Tamiya Dark Yellow, 30% Buff and10% White thinned w. LT MD

That looks great John-very cool! MD

Great work! One of the best tanks-my next will be a T-62 MD

Very nice 👍

Hello all The build completed and the workbench cleaned up. Now begins the most beautiful part from my point of view - the painting 🤗 The Hetzer shows a disk camouflage, applied at the BMM factory. The 3 basic colors are ready, in the next step I will fill in small gaps with green or brown and make beauty repairs. Light and shadow I make later with oil paint, the effect can be controlled well. MD A new ZF1a Primer and pre shading Green basic Disc stencils and brown after that again stencils and yellow small yellow islands are still filled with color everything still looks too new-weathering will change it