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THEscaleSHOW

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Everything posted by THEscaleSHOW

  1. Maybe you buy the Russian variant - seems to be probably cheaper
  2. Yes, many think it is one and the same track. I also only found out when I built the MK 35 Winterkette for my SIG 33B. Even at TMN (presentation of the new MiniArt StuG III) they don`t seem to distinguish it? I can not see any Ostkette
  3. Yes folks, you're right of course! I had probably the so-called Hammerstollen in mind-sorry for that Think first-then write
  4. Hello folks Thanks in advance for your comments - I really appreciate it! I am continuing with the weathering of the M12. Today's pictures show further steps, mainly to give the surfaces different colour shades and to emphasize the angular shape of the body. Now the rough work is done and the details can be worked on. MD To give the gun more contour, I did a pinwash and painted the protruding edges dry with a mixture of light grey and sand coloured oil paint. The floor is given a colour that stands out from the rest. At the ends of the front track fenders you can (hopefully) see the light effect with light oil colours. In addition, the edges of the rubber pads were brightened. Unwanted shine will be removed later with pigments. Corners and edges were also painted dry. For further effects, I worked on the borders of the hatches with oil paint. If you stroke the surface without pressure and with almost no paint on the brush, the steel structure becomes clearly visible. In this view you can see that I also lightened the barrel above. This also shows the rounding better. With targeted dry painting, you can give a dark model more volume without changing the base colour and still make it appear lighter. In my experience, however, this only works best with enamel or oil paint. Hm..., I guess you can see that I am a child of the Verlinden era See you!
  5. Hello Cesar Thanks for the post - a nice model I will use your experience for my kit! MD
  6. ...and Winterketten have separate end pieces, Ostketten are made from one piece
  7. Ahoy Bertie Thanks for your comment! Yes, I had thought to finish faster too, but when it's nearing the end, everything somehow always takes longer.... Started weathering this weekend and applied a base filter. Then a little chipping and painted the leather parts. Pinwash etc. follow, in parallel I'm thinking about the design of the scene. It will be (hopefully) a cold wet November day.... MD First effects on the spade. Paints for the filter. Track wash is already done. The different shades are applied wet on wet. I like to use purple with green (although OD is not green at all). I think the color harmonizes very well and creates a pretty effect. The leather is prepared. Oil paints do the rest. Filter is done. The signpost is making progress. Test fitting of the figures. The driver still needs to be painted. Let's hope the steel beam holds
  8. Thanks Ed! The uniform is not ready yet. The transitions between light and shadow are still too hard and will be blended. The commander is also making progress, although in my opinion Alpine modeled the hands a bit too large!?! MD
  9. Hello Darryl Thanks to you and the others for the comments I'm happy with the figure too-honestly, I repainted the head 3 times. Especially with the eyes, one wrong brush stroke can be too much and everything is messed up. As for the idea to Dioramas, so I already let myself be inspired by pictures and movies, but for the most part it is imagination. Of course, everything should be realistic to explain, but especially with war scenes you have a wide margin because (almost) anything is possible. Forget the string theory, but rather get the next kit from the shelf MD
  10. Hello John Highly recommended new kit and not to be compared with the old Italeri kit. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-35363-m3a1-scout-car--1160855# MD
  11. Hello folks For all of you who want to build a Miniart Austin I would like to share some experiences with you. I can only recommend to do a test fit before gluing. Especially the chassis is very fiddly with many small parts. Maybe it helps!? MD Here is my WIP so far
  12. Hi Ed Great model! Love this tank even without a gun! The crew seems to be chain smokers-maybe build them a big ashtray? Cool idea with the cigarrette butts BTW: if you want to build the Austin in the GB, I would have collected a few notes. I upload them in the GB post, maybe it helps a bit!? MD
  13. Hello folks Since a long time again a small update to the M12. The project needs more time than I thought, but slowly it is coming to an end. I'm probably already thinking about the upcoming Halftruck GB at the end of October - I have to finish it by then Ok, not much to say, see you soon! MD The bridge needs a support Late autumn mud The dirt will be painted later First fit test Miniart accessories... ...even more realistic with a few simple steps Painting a head begins with the pre-shading Then follows the desired skin tone Not many colors are needed - you can mix infinite skin tones with it. Oil colors facilitate blending and create smooth transitions The uniform will be refinished a little later His rifle is still in work, the one from Alpine is unfortunately broken R.I.P.
  14. Yes, I also think it is a very late model-drive wheel and 3 steel returnrollers suggest that. The camouflage seems to be a mix of cloudy and disc. Dark yellow base color with olive green and reddish brown camouflage spots and numerous small dots of color, triangles etc. It is the ambush scheme (light and shadow camouflage) as introduced in August 1944 and seen in the picture of the L70. Then there was the distortion camouflage scheme as of 31 October 1944 As early as September 1944, a decree ended the factory application of Zimmerit. From October 31, 1944, all vehicles were given a base coat of RAL 8012. RAL 8012 is a rusty brown color that was commonly applied as an anti-rust paint. On top of the RAL 7012 color, approximately half of the surface of the vehicle was then spotted with different sized spots. RAL 8012 Rust protection (base) RAL 6003 Olive green RAL 7028 Dark yellow As you can see, there are several possibilities. In addition there is the free interpretation when recoloring the photos. In my opinion, dark yellow should dominate here as the base. If green is the base color (looks like it anyway), according to my information, only dark yellow stripes but no patches were allowed (HV B No. 52 of 24.01.1945)!?
  15. I have found that you can achieve good results with super fine hairspray (Elnett Hairspray from L'Oréal is my favorite). You can thin it also with a little acrylic thinner or water. Directly from the can, it can lead to unsightly effects with a cheap atomiser. That's why I always fill it into bottles and use the AB. But as Darryl said, there are many variables that affect the look. In the end, you should like it - that's what counts!
  16. Hello Ed Very good work so far! I have to do the weathering on the spade of the M12 as well, your pictures are a nice inspiration Cheers!
  17. Hello Darryl Check in regularly on your build and am excited to see what happens next. Just like Ian, I prefer the L70 variant, but your choice of kit is also great I am curious about the camouflage painting! MD Since this picture I am infected a nice inspiration for a dio (copyright)!?
  18. The build will probably test my nerves and dexterity a lot The Dragon kit itself is already a fat thing, but the Voyager PE sets are not from this planet. I thought one set would be enough, but 3 are needed. Two of them could be ordered in Germany, one (for the hood) I ordered in a fit of insanity in Australia. Hopefully the package will arrive by air freight in time. The Rubicon I have exceeded with this action... MD
  19. Hi Nenad Good kit choice-the 112 is one of my favorite cats! I had gone for RFM at the time, in hindsight the Dragon kit makes less work (though not flawless)... My Voyager PE set was also good, but the exhaust sheets were difficult to bend despite lighter. So i rebuilt them in 0.2mm aluminum sheet. Keep on having fun!
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