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NIK122

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Posts posted by NIK122

  1. 2 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

    This will be interesting I'm sure.

    Never been brave enough to tackle anything from AA but they do some great subjects. 

     

    Good luck

    Darryl 

    Hello Darryl. Aside from some vague instructions on the fitting of the rear towing pintle (I'll cover this shortly), it's looking like a pretty straight forward build. All the small resin pieces are beautifully cast which after buying poorly cast resin before (not from AA) I'm hoping it will be a pleasure to build.... Fortune favors and all that

    • Like 1
  2. Hello once again! On a roll for the moment. Next on the bench is last years Christmas present. Accurate Armour's conversion set for Tamiya's Cromwell kit. Pretty excited about this one and maybe a little apprehensive because of what appears to be an almost complete black hole of reference material to research. The build looks fairly straight forward but markings for instance is going to be a guessing game. Hopefully an informed one with you lovely people to help. According to the book I've got, 7th,11th and guards narrow down the decal options but unit numbers and their positioning etc? Any help most welcome. 

    I've an idea for this build involving the ramp of a LCT5, or at least the end of one, which I'm in two minds about. I will go with the flow. It may look a bit odd with only part of a ramp showing on what I envisage as quite a compact base. If I can get the proportions right and what I have found due to some great shots of LCT7074 online it's a possibility.

    Below are what I've gathered together for the build.

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    The obvious and Hobby Boss tracks, Eureka towing cable set and Eduard photo etch set. All I now need is either a modulation set for late war British armour or any recommendations for alternatives. I don't mind mixing colours as necessary. Time to start building!

    Thanks for looking

    • Like 10
  3. Thanks for all the great comments. They are all very much appreciated. I have to ask but what do you think of the photography? I can't quite work out if the focus is as good as it could be. My eyes need upgrading! I've no problem growing old disgracefully but the old eyesight is a frustration! I did start taking pictures with a tripod and timer but the battery ran out on my camera so I ended up posting shots from my clever phone 🙄

  4. Good evening! So here it is, the finished article. The Skoda 42cm M.1917 Heavy siege howitzer. Realized during WW1 and mothballed until WW2. There were six examples of this weapon around during WW2 but none exist today. They were used in the siege of Sevastopol and Leningrad until the positions were overrun. 

    Aside from the issue of painting this model if fully assembled, covered in the build blog, I highly recommend this kit, especially if you are looking for something a little different. I haven't one in my stash but I'd like to build the Skoda 30.5 M1916 by Takom now if I can get hold of one.

    Below are some shots that I've taken in my jury rigged photo set up! I've really got to get a photo booth. Any recommendations welcome.

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    Thanks for looking

    • Like 56
    • Thanks 2
  5. Hello! Here is the rest of this build. I've added some details to the elevation wheel? Hinge, bolts and counter weight.

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    The recoil cylinder ends? looked a little flat so I made some more pronounced shapes by turning some plastic card using a cordless drill.

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    And added. You can also see the addition of one of the triangular wedges under the top flange of the gun carriage in this shot. This would allow the jack plate to seat level when assembling the weapon. 

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    Some more small details added here. I'm guessing that they are guides for assembly. Brass tube and plastic card.

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    Below is the construction completed. 0.5mm plastic card and bolt detail added to either side of the gun carriage on top to create the missing reinforcing. I'm not convinced that the curved shapes either side of the breach on the carriage are correct. I think that this area should be straight across at the back from left to right with a radius in each corner. It's a little late to alter it at the point of writing this as its finished. Maybe that's for someone else?! Jumping around with the time line again as some of the parts have already been shown painted. With the limited reference material available I think it's been possible to improve on this kit without breaking the bank and it's something that anyone could do with a little patience. 

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    On with some paint. Once again Mig modulation set. Mig acrylic steel for the inside of the breach, barrel and around where the barrel recoils.

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    Semi gloss black on the optical equipment. 

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    I spent around four nights chipping the whole model using the sponge and brush method. This was done with the lightest gray from the modulation set, applied by sponge and Mig chipping colour applied with a fine brush. The whole model was then given an oil wash.

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    Static grass has been added to the base and painted. As mentioned at the beginning of this thread the figures, or should I say the painting of the figures, are not up to muster. I will persevere with them but for now they won't be included.  I will post shots of the finished model shortly. 

    Thanks for looking

     

     

     

    • Like 7
  6. Moving on. The main elements of the gun carriage, barrel and breach and a chap for scale. 

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    For anyone is interested in building this model I recommend the book below. Whilst there are not loads of photos of this particular weapon in the book what pictures are there are sharp and informative. There is also a decent technical drawing.

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    Additional details to the gun included the jack points below.

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    One of the biggest drawbacks of the kit is how to paint it if it is fully assembled. The simple answer is that you can't. My solution was a little surgery. The offending part marked for cutting.

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    The offending part removed. A note to Takom! Could this have been a feature of the kit? Having both sides like this as separate parts would allow the kit to be painted in three main parts and then assembled.

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    As I opted to remove just one side the axle needed shortening on the opposite side to allow the fit.

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    With the above alterations the barrel now drops in with removed piece to add after painting.

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    Next up was this small detail. The weird sticking out bits in between the ammo cart wheels made sense when seeing this device. Once the ammo cart is on the base of the gun the travel lock holds the cart in the right position for the transfer of the shell.

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    I had to make two of these parts. Getting the scale right was hit and miss so they were an approximation. The above reference book was great in helping with the location. Plastic card, brass tube and sprue construction.

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    Next up ARVclub came to the rescue. A great deal of internet trawling trying to find images of 2WW German optical equipment eventually narrowed down the search to a 'Zielfernrohr 34'. With some parts omitted I think it shows some strong similarities.

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    Below is the fitted part with what I think is the direct fire scope? removed and the elevation indicators? omitted. This is speculative of course but side by side with a photo of the real gun it looks pretty close!?

     

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    Another point of note is the position of the turntable rotation gear. The instructions would have it placed as below which is incorrect.

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    And in its correct position. 

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    Back onto the base which has been covered in fine sand and some courser bits to represent lumps of soil and stones.

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    More coffee stirrers for the planks.

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    Finally for today some shots of the ground works with some paint on. I airbrushed everything black to start with and then kept adding ever lighter colours.

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    Still in the early stages here with some overspray showing. Oils and dust effects still to come.

     

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    Base colours down. Loads of chipping yet to do.

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    As always thanks for looking

     

    • Like 8
  7. Hi all! Here's a model that I've been working on for some time. I've approached the build blog in a slightly different way insomuch as I've photographed the progress as it's happened and the build is now nearly finished. So here is the last few months work.(In no particular order). The whole build has been straight forward with some scratch building. The only moot point is the figures. After sending hours building them I'm not happy with my painting attempts so far, so their inclusion is up in the air at the moment.

    The Takom kit is a pretty decent representation of the subject but there are numerous small details missing that I hope I've improved on. The RPM kit of the ammunition cart on the other hand is a dog and needed a lot of work.

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    I've approached the build from the ground up. The gun in real life was assembled from six main components the first being two large metal boxes that formed the base for the weapon. These were lowered into a pre prepared hole using eight jacks. The kit is sadly missing this structure so the idea was to hint at what is beneath the ground. Below is a shot showing the scale of this weapon. A monstrous thing.

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    The first job was to thin the folding curved plates that are much too thick. As you can see the plate is molded consistently the same thickness all along the base plate.

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    The thickness reduced with a great deal of scrapping and sanding. Rather than thin it all only the visible edge is reduced by tapering it.

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    Next job. Added shallow box structure with plastic card. If you really wanted to go to town this could be three times as deep.

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    A trip to my local home store provided a suitably sized picture frame to form the base. Pine block board was cut to size to fit snuggly into the frame. 

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    Layers of cardboard were then added to build up the surface.

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    Medium density model board was then added and sculpted. All joins and the edges were filled with a two part wood filler. 

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    Next up some scratch building. The base boxes for the weapon were positioned by pulling each box on a set of removable wheels along a track using block and tackles. Once over the pre dug hole they would then be lowered in. From what I could make out from historical photos the tracks look like a heavy duty gutter shape for want of a better description. These have been created using Evergreen profiles.

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    And in position. Two in total, one at each end. 

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    Below the metal eye that the block and tackle was attached to and the timber jack block and retaining wall.

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    Retaining wall courtesy of coffee stirrers.

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    The next two photos show added bolt detail to all four sides from evergreen rod. Riveting.

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    The rail for the ammo cart was constructed from more evergreen profile. The top flange of I beam has been sanded down and slightly rounded. The sleepers are some plastic strip. The spacing between the sleepers was roughly calculated by comparing images of the ammo cart in relation to the rail. It's roughly 1m in scale. At the top of the image is a set of the wheels from the cart to gauge the track width. The axels needed shortening by 0.5mm on both sides to match the rail on the guns turntable. The wheels had three semi circular tabs(just visible) on each rim which were a pig to remove. Lots of patience.

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    On to the cart now. I had plans to build two of the carts but I'd lost the will to live after building one. To build one half decent cart took a lot of work and there are still inconsistencies with the shape. The RPM kit was under ten pounds which I guess is good value as it comes with decals. The kit it's self though has horrible sprue gates and quite soft details. On closer inspection it only vaguely passes as a representation of what it is.spacer.png

    As you can see by comparing these two images the shape of the body of the cart is off. The real thing being more curvaceous. A glaring difference is the attachment points of the handle in relation to the rear axel. Also the lever which I'm assuming locks the rotating mount of the shell cradle is missing. The assumption is as there are no obvious breaks and most pictures of the cart show a stick passed through the front axel to stop the cart rolling leads me to this conclusion.

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    The wheels as mentioned before all had three semi circular tabs that needed removing with care but aren't too bad at all once this is done.

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    Below after numerous hours already tweaking the kit its starting to take shape. I ended up completely remaking the handle out of soldered brass rod . This was the main reason for not making a second cart. It was tricky as every time I soldered one end of the cross rail the other end became loose. The lever was made from plastic card .

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    Below shows construction finished. Additional details added and the travel lock keeps? completely remade,(the weird sticky out bits between the wheels). Relief that I bought two kits evident in the light gray wheel on the shell cradle.

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    Finally the finished article with shell. I'm jumping around with the chronology here as I didn't start painting until all the construction elements of the model were finished.

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    The decals went down well although the carrier film on the largest decal still showed after a gloss coat so the shell ended up rotated to hide this on its underside. Painted with Mig modulation set and given an oil pin wash. Weathering pastels from Mr hobby. The green of the shell I mixed myself so it's a guess.

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    Next onto the shell loading mechanism. Some additional details including missing bolts etc.

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    Painted as before.

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    And with the same shell as before.

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    That is it for now. I've loads more to show so I will post some more later today or during the week. Thanks for looking

     

     

     

    • Like 11
  8. Hi all! Can anyone help with a couple of questions? I'm looking for any information, or speculation for that matter, on what gun sights were used on the Skoda 42cm. I don't have a military background so apologies if the terminology is wrong, There isn't much to do with the Takom kit other than build it and as far as I can tell the only thing missing are the sights. I'm happy to scratch build the missing part but could do with a decent image to base the sights on. Below is the best image that I've been able to find.

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    The second question is does anyone have any information on this hoist? Of coarse a technical drawing would be great!

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    Thanks for looking

  9. Good evening. Some more of my eye torture. Wiper motors and cables added. Cables from copper wire and cable clips from drilled out and halved stretched sprue. They are a little scale heavy but my eyes and patience are both wearing thin. Still, no giving up at this late stage.

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    Its not too clear here but I am reasonably sure that the cables should be attached to the black switch/socket what not, on the dash board directly above the speedo/rev counter.

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    There are still the fixings to add that lock the windscreen frame in an open or closed position. This really is starting to feel like the trials of Sisyphus.

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    Thanks for looking

    • Like 7
  10. On 4/29/2022 at 9:05 PM, Das Abteilung said:

    "If I understand the difference the Italeri kit is fine for a Korean War model but completely inaccurate for WW2."

     

    No, I'm afraid not.  The Italeri hull is OK for potentially only 1 single WW2 example, or perhaps a very small handful, and only if you ignore the missing cast-in applique armour.  No more appropriate for Korea than for WW2.  No new M32 conversions on 76mm large-hatch hulls were made after WW2.  The M74 ARV conversion came along in 1954 and these were mostly on M4A3 hulls, apart from being completely different in every other respect: although some old M32B1s were later converted from 1958.

     

    By Korea we're seeing HVSS being retrofitted (M32B1A1) and the automatic tow hook.  HVSS necessitated revision of the boom raising arrangement and there were many other more minor improvements  Spare wheel and return roller holders for HVSS wheels were fitted.  Shapeways do the automatic tow hook and a couple of other useful bits for M32s.

    I sit corrected 🙄 Thanks for the info

  11. 5 hours ago, Peter2 said:

    NIK122, I was looking back at this build and on page 3 you mentioned that you plan on building the Cromwell ARV. I read a detailed article in the "Collector's Edition" "Military Vehicle Special" issue of "Military Modelling" published around April 2001 or April 2002 (?)[but I'm not 100% sure of which year] which described building one of these using the Tamiya Cromwell and the AA aftermarket resin conversion parts. That article was perhaps about 4 or so pages long with some WIP photos: if you can find it or a download online, it may help you. I can't find my copy so I can't be much help with actual details. I've just noticed online that magazineexchange.co.uk sell some Military Modelling back issues for say £2, so they may have it? Website is at

    https://www.magazineexchange.co.uk/cw/military-modelling-magazine-late-april-2002-issue.html

    Thank you for the info Pete. I will order a copy. I have seen a digital copy of another build possibly from AFVmodeller. I don't seem to be able to find it though. The Cromwell ARV will be my next build. I have aftermarket tracks and tow cable already for it and I'm wondering if the vehicle was ever fitted with deep wading kit? Any info on this welcome. Cheers 

  12. On 5/5/2022 at 11:03 PM, Lummox said:

    Loving your work here Nik, the build, paint-job and diorama are all excellent. I especially like what you have done with the seats - lovely stuff 👍

     

    Am I right in assuming that the scissor hinges for the tilting windscreen are from the Royal Model accessory set? The reason I ask is that I'm currently struggling to manufacture something similar.

     

    Cheers, Paul.

    Thank you for the kind words Paul. 

    I did start off with a combination of the Aber set and the Royal model set as it reduced the number of parts by one😅per side. 

    The Royal model hinges come as one piece per side with tabs for fixing. They are not quite the right shape and a little basic in detail. After removing the tabs and adding the Aber brackets at either end I couldn't get the hinges to sit right on the frames because of the moldings on the kit frames. I went back to the drawing board and the parts used are entirely from the Aber set with two stretched sprew spacers added, one on each side to enable the scissor hinges to sit true through the frames. It was incredibly fiddly. I'd recommend assembling the two hinge leaves and wing nut on each side, prior to attaching them to the brackets on the frames. Sorry if this is a bit convoluted. I hope it helps 

    PS, Paul the photoetch set with the scissor hinge as one piece was from Eduard not Royal model. My mistake. The RM set is separate pieces 

    • Thanks 1
  13. Good afternoon. Here's a little more. There's been a bit of a gap since last posting as I've moved house so before and after the move as follows.

    So following on with the base. I'm trying for an old asphalt surface. The texture was achieved by white gluing fine sand to the surface and then sanding it. It's kind of OK at this point but was improved on later. 

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    I've added a telegraph pole from Miniart to give the display some height.

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    Next the static grass was added with mixed results. It started well but then ended up a little on the thin side. I think this is due to a lack of experience as it was my first attempt.

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    The road surface has had more loose material added and then picked out by brush. I used the surplus rubber tyres from the kit to add the wheel marks on the surface. The static grass has been redone.

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    Tall grasses were created from an old, or new paintbrush.

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    Glued in clumps with CA.

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    And airbrushed.

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    Added to the base as randomly as possible and thinned and shaped a little with scissors. The static grass was airbrushed before this to tone it down😬. It's still looking a bit bright maybe but under natural light natural enough.

     

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    The whole thing toned down more and any patches of missing grass made to look boggy.

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    Finally for this post some leaf litter. I'm seriously considering changing the leaves for miniature oak leaves as the Famo and Bison1 I will be modelling are both from the 1st Panzer regiment, so the leaves would become a nod to the regiments badge.

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    Back to the Famo and trailer. Everything has been clear coated and the weathering has begun. Not too much to show on this but there will be next time.

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    I couldn't resist a shot outside.

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    There still seems to be a lot to do with all the additional missing parts but I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel. The seats have been airbrushed with Tamiya matt black then dry brushed with a light grey enamel.

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    They were then given a wash with burnt umber oil paint.

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    Lastly for this post the wind screen. This part has been giving me nightmares but after the best part of a day, some choice words and several attempts and alterations to get the tiny parts to sit right I'm happy with the results. 

    The kit parts as they come.

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    The lower transom on the opening part of the wind screen was first to go as it's incorrect. Also the molded on wipers and a dozen injector pin marks were removed. Sorry the pictures aren't great.

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    The assembled frame.

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    The stays consist of five parts each. There are still the wipers, wiper motors and cables, searchlight and glazing to add. A model within its self.

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    Thanks for looking

     

    • Like 7
  14. 20 hours ago, Das Abteilung said:

    The big difference is that Asuka chose the right hull type.  Small hatch.  Italeri just recycled their 76mm large hatch hull without doing the research.  There is a photo of a large hatch hull M32B1 but this may have been the only one.  No other pictures have ever emerged.  M32s of all types were intended to be built on remanufactured used hulls of older tanks.  The M32B2s for USMC were an exception as these used new-build hulls.  However 91 new M4A1 hulls were also used to make up for a shortage of used hulls.

     

    There were only 100 large hatch 75mm M4A1s built anyway.  Most of these were taken for DD conversion, although the exact number seems unknown as records do not discriminate.  Minutia reckons all of them but the one known M32 conversion disproves that.  DD and M32 conversion overlapped by about a month.

     

    Even assuming that Italeri modelled the one, or one of few, large hatch M23B1 the hull is still wrong.  M4A1 75 large hatch tanks had the "cast-in applique" hull sides.  Italeri's hull is a 76, and therefore wet stowage with no applique.

    If I understand the difference the Italeri kit is fine for a Korean War model but completely inaccurate for WW2. I was going to get the correct hull and graft on the italeri parts without realizing there is a better kit available. I guess it's a case of skill level or cash to realize the WW2 version 

    • Like 1
  15. 49 minutes ago, Redcoat2966 said:

    That looks awesome mate........really been a pleasure to follow along. Interesting way to do the bio terrain.......

     

    Cheers

    Simon

    Thanks Redcoat! I'm glad you like it. The terrain technique is something that I picked up from my dad's model railway projects. He used to use 'modroc' over the cardboard. It's the stuff they used to use for broken bone casts. It's something I unfortunately don't have in my stash

    • Like 1
  16. Good evening. Some more progress and the start of the display base as follows. I've started chipping and weathering the trailer. I don't seem to have taken any photos of the chipping so here's one of the rear axel after the fact with a dust wash.

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    I decided to build the base this weekend as a break from the more involved process of weathering and to help bring the project together as one unit.

    I started with the obligatory piece of oak plank. This piece is 600mm by 160mm. A bit of a beast. The intention is to build a base representing a section of road with a ditch running the length of the base but not parallel. Why make it easy? With the trailer being so low I figure raising up the terrain will make the finished display more interesting and the subject easier to look at? Its ended up looking like its on an elevated or banked road. With the addition of foliage and maybe telegraph poles it may remedy this.........we will see.

    Dry fitting the base and model below. I started with the model running right to left but after thinking about it, left to right made more sense with the vehicle parked up on the side of the road on the continent.

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    The terrain is framed with pine, 28mm by 10mm. Both ends of the pine frame were shaped to form the ditch and then it was just a case of following the contours, left to right with the cardboard strips. Anyone familiar with model railways will have seen this technique before. Its cheap, surprisingly relaxing and well, the grounds the limit. 

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    I added more card from another box to form the road etc and pinned it down. A wash of thinned PVA was applied to the whole surface and when this was touch dry weight was added to the surface over night. If I do this again I will use more rigid card as once dry it was a little more spongy than I would have liked. 

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    The following morning when dry I've added two part wood filler over the whole surface. Two part car filler would have been just as good but as I wasn't bothered by a super smooth finish it wasn't a problem. This was then sanded back after 20mins. This is what I like about the product. It lets you get on with it.

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    Mig acrylic mud has then been applied over the surface. Neat over the verge and slightly diluted on the road. I used a hairdryer to speed this up and then fine sandpaper to remove the coarseness of the texture on the road for variation and so that all the wheels and tracks will sit down on the surface.

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    And finally a test shot. I've a static grass applicator in the post, something I've never used before, so the next post will follow on from here.

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    Thanks for looking

    • Like 9
  17. Good evening. Some more on the trailer. The oils have dried and been sealed with more gloss coat and a Tamiya black panel line has been applied to the planks. After some procrastination I've decided to just add the license plate decal and not the large optional number on the right rear mudguard as I can only find one image showing this feature which incidentally is what the kit box art is based on. Instead I opted to mask and add the white width markings on the rear mudguards to add some interest. The license plate decal was a pig to fit and needed notching. With hindsight I should have removed the three raised details as I can't find a reference image with them on. I couldn't bring myself to do this though after the paint was added. It ended up being academic after damaging the paint on the right mudguard whilst removing the mask for the white markings.

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    Moving on, the bits and bobs for the winch were next. This consists of some after market resin parts and a doctored towing eye from the spares box. The hook is from the trailer kit and the single link is from a chain I've found that is near enough for the other details that will be added.

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    The problem with the towing eye was the open side where the cable is attached. This has been fixed with drilled out stretched sprue. It will make gluing the metal cable to this part a lot more straight forward.

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    Below are all the parts for the end of the towing cable and the bracket for fixing down the spare wheel.

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    Finally it all added to the trailer. I turned blue holding my breath when cutting the tow cable to length as messing it up could have been a disaster after gluing the winch housing in place. The spare tyre has been weathered but nothing else.

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    Everything is glued in place apart from the chain tensioners as I don't fancy crimping on the chains in situ. The cable eye and rollers etc need picking out with a gun metal paint. It's all looking very shiny but not for much longer.

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    Another dry fit. The wheels have been weathered and that is it for now.

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    Thanks for looking

     

     

    • Like 11
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