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John McNamara

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  1. Many Thanks MT1. I will look all these shops up. (TBH I have heardof Hannants!) When I googled these kits I drew a blank. John
  2. I am looking to build a 1:48 scale CF 18 Hornet and finish it the 20 year anniversary scheme. I have found that Hasegawa and Kinetic both make examples. What I am also finding is difficulty obtaining either of these kits in the UK, so where do you guys buy from.? So, are either of these kits still available, and if both are, which do you guys think is the better one? Finally, are there any other optional manufacturers kits that I should consider? Thanks in Advance John.
  3. Hi Farmerboy, Yes they are, and they keep getting smaller and more powerful. Both the F18 and the Sabre had 160N engines in them. The sabre was a bit overpowered by the F18 was just about right. It was very fast when clean but need lots of throttle on around the landing pattern with everything hanging down. The engines are simpler versions of what Frank Whittle designed, i.e. centrifugal single stage compressor, Single stage turbine wheel made from inconel and an annualar combustion chamber in between. The run a total loss system, so we add about 5% turbine oild in the fuel, which is driven through the ceramic full contact bearings, prior to entering the individual combustion tubes. These act as flame holders, and inside them are the fuel injection needles, the i.d. of which is about the same as a human hair. So basically a very simple design in principle. However the demands on enginerring accuracy and material technology is extreme, so they are expensive.
  4. Well, after several years of building that Hawk, it finally flew last Thursday. It was a perfect day weather wise, so no better time. The airfield is Elvington near York where we hold regular jet meetings. The model flew as if on rails, and had great prescence in the air. There is a bit of video here: Shame we missed the landing! John
  5. A good name for a USCG vessel. I am only slightly envoius. I would have loved to have sailed as a younger man. John
  6. Hi All thank you for the replies, I have just received a kit from a member here, Redcap. He has sold me one of his at a sensible price. A true gentleman. Thank you Redcap! I too hope that WnW opens their doors again. I would be a regular customer. RC Boater Bill, I suppose the US coastguard has more modern vessels that that shown in your profile, but none so pretty! Is she still sailing? I never stopped modelleing, I just spent the last 50 years aquiring new skills in flying RC scale models. Most of the basic skills of scale detailing cross over, but the models have to actually fly. Moreover, the have to be flown and this requiires great skill that is hard to learn. What's new for me is the myriad of new materials out there for the plastics builder, and that is what I am having to learn about. There is so much after market stuff. Amazing! Regards, John
  7. Hi Gary & Duncan, There is a chap in Norfolk constantly on ebay with several kits with starting prices of £200. Whilst I would really like one, and if I am honest with myself, I could afford it, it just grates a bit to hand over that amount of cash for a plastic kit. However, given that realistically these kits are unlikely to come back I will probably bite the bullet. The next question is this. None of the colour schemes of his kits float my boat. For sure it must have lozenge camo. I may try the paint masks for this, or should I go with aftermarket decals? It seems a complex process to cover the whole wing in panels of decal, and then add rib tapes over the ribs and LE. Any opinions on this subject please guys? As for the fuselage, either a wood or a colourful painted scheme. There was one painted a vey dark blue with white stars that has caught my eye. I would be grateful for suggestions. TIA John
  8. Hi Guys, Excuse me for coming on here and asking what I suspect is a really dumb question. Having just got back into plastic modelling after a long layoff, I came across the name of Wingnuts Wings. What's more they listed lots of Albatross DVa variants as well as a Bristol F2B; my two favourite WW1 subjects. Imagine my dismay then when I tried to order. It was like meeting the girl of my dreams, only to find that she got married last weekend. Cruel!! So, I have been searching the internet and only come up with ebay traders wanting £200 plus for a kit. That kind of grates on me, because I doubt that any of these guys are real modellers, just opportunists. So, is there any store, anywhere in the world that still has stock? I realise that I am clutching at straws, but equally it would be daft not to ask. Thinks John
  9. Nice Hunter, The Hunter is a big favourite of mine. Regarding yellow and other low opacity hues such as dayglow orange, I find that underpinning with matt white is the best solution. White has a higher opacity it seems and can cover well. The yellow or orange then show their true colour once sparayed over the top. John
  10. Following my last post I finally got around to adding the missing wing tip white stripe on my Fouga Magister. The Fantasy Printshop Solid White sheet was employed with great success. The only thing is it took me about 3 goes to cut a stripe that matched the one on the other tip. It is not a simple parallel stripe. It starts at arund 2mm thick, widens to about 3mm and the tapers to a point at the traling edge. No straight lines, all subtle curves. Its amazing in modelling how suddenlt a relatively simple task can become a challenge. The decal sheet went on well. It conformed to the curces with the help ot micro set and micro sol. It showed no sign of cracking or flaking off like the kit decals and it is fully opaque. I will use again without hesitation. John
  11. I have just made the change from a siphon type to a gravity type in the last few days and there is no comparison. I am a very lucky boy having received an Iwata Custom Micron from my good lady for Christmas, to replace my old Badger 155. What a difference. I am repeating what others have said, but the experience is new for me. the ability to turn the air pressure right down and still get a good flow is amazing. John
  12. I also met Eric Brown at a lecture he did, either at the Yorkshire Air Museum of at Pudsey Civic hall in Leeds. Both were used for a series of absolutely amazing lectures. At the end of his lecture Eric asked for questions and I asked him which was the most dnagerous aircraft that he ever flew? He answered the Me163 Komet was by far the most dangerous. He went on to tell the story of his very unnoficial flight. He still got a dressing down when his boss heard about the flight. He spent a lot of time talking to the aircrew that were still around as well as the groundcrew. Of course he spoke fluent German, having spent many of his schoolyears living there. He signed my copy of his book for me which had been out only a short time, so I guess that dates the lecture. It was an amazing lecture and very insightful. Good luck with the Komet build, John
  13. When I got back into plastic modelling a few months ago, I searched out my trusty, but old Badger 155 Anthem. It had been laid up for many, many years and the trigger action felt like i was rubbing two bricks together. On taking it apart I found real difficulty in removing the needle. Applying a drop of penetrating oil and alittle ptience solved that problem, but even after a thourogh cleaning its feel and performance left much to be desired. I dropped it into my ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. It uses water with a few drops of proprietary US cleaning fluid (detergent) added. After this it was very much better but still not quite right so I gave it anouther round of cleaning. The amount of rubbish in the water proved what had been removed. The Badger works OK now. It did need a good extenal polish with a bit of duraglit afterwards, but it came up like new. I would not advise this technique for regular airbrush cleaning but when a problem such as the OP outlined arises, US cleaning can be useful. John
  14. Hmm, I was looking at these sheets to cut some replacement decals for my Fouga Magister from AMK. The kit was generally excellent, but the decals where not. They took an age to release, did not slide, did not adhere well and broke up very easily. This is even after applications of micro sol and micro set. I still need to add the white stipes on the wing tip tanks but they have a 2D curve, so it's a big ask for any waterslide decal anyway. Logically I would mask the tip tanks up and spray the white in, but the adhesion problems I have had with acrylic paints has me worried that that route could end in disaster also. Probably worth a try though. John
  15. Merry Christmas everyone. Thank you for welcoming me in and for the advice.
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