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John McNamara

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About John McNamara

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    Leeds

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  1. A good name for a USCG vessel. I am only slightly envoius. I would have loved to have sailed as a younger man. John
  2. Hi All thank you for the replies, I have just received a kit from a member here, Redcap. He has sold me one of his at a sensible price. A true gentleman. Thank you Redcap! I too hope that WnW opens their doors again. I would be a regular customer. RC Boater Bill, I suppose the US coastguard has more modern vessels that that shown in your profile, but none so pretty! Is she still sailing? I never stopped modelleing, I just spent the last 50 years aquiring new skills in flying RC scale models. Most of the basic skills of scale detailing cross over, but the models have to actually fly.
  3. Hi Gary & Duncan, There is a chap in Norfolk constantly on ebay with several kits with starting prices of £200. Whilst I would really like one, and if I am honest with myself, I could afford it, it just grates a bit to hand over that amount of cash for a plastic kit. However, given that realistically these kits are unlikely to come back I will probably bite the bullet. The next question is this. None of the colour schemes of his kits float my boat. For sure it must have lozenge camo. I may try the paint masks for this, or should I go with aftermarket decals? It seems a complex p
  4. Hi Guys, Excuse me for coming on here and asking what I suspect is a really dumb question. Having just got back into plastic modelling after a long layoff, I came across the name of Wingnuts Wings. What's more they listed lots of Albatross DVa variants as well as a Bristol F2B; my two favourite WW1 subjects. Imagine my dismay then when I tried to order. It was like meeting the girl of my dreams, only to find that she got married last weekend. Cruel!! So, I have been searching the internet and only come up with ebay traders wanting £200 plus for a kit. That kind of grates on me, beca
  5. Nice Hunter, The Hunter is a big favourite of mine. Regarding yellow and other low opacity hues such as dayglow orange, I find that underpinning with matt white is the best solution. White has a higher opacity it seems and can cover well. The yellow or orange then show their true colour once sparayed over the top. John
  6. Following my last post I finally got around to adding the missing wing tip white stripe on my Fouga Magister. The Fantasy Printshop Solid White sheet was employed with great success. The only thing is it took me about 3 goes to cut a stripe that matched the one on the other tip. It is not a simple parallel stripe. It starts at arund 2mm thick, widens to about 3mm and the tapers to a point at the traling edge. No straight lines, all subtle curves. Its amazing in modelling how suddenlt a relatively simple task can become a challenge. The decal sheet went on well. It conformed to the curces
  7. I have just made the change from a siphon type to a gravity type in the last few days and there is no comparison. I am a very lucky boy having received an Iwata Custom Micron from my good lady for Christmas, to replace my old Badger 155. What a difference. I am repeating what others have said, but the experience is new for me. the ability to turn the air pressure right down and still get a good flow is amazing. John
  8. I also met Eric Brown at a lecture he did, either at the Yorkshire Air Museum of at Pudsey Civic hall in Leeds. Both were used for a series of absolutely amazing lectures. At the end of his lecture Eric asked for questions and I asked him which was the most dnagerous aircraft that he ever flew? He answered the Me163 Komet was by far the most dangerous. He went on to tell the story of his very unnoficial flight. He still got a dressing down when his boss heard about the flight. He spent a lot of time talking to the aircrew that were still around as well as the groundcrew. Of course he spoke
  9. When I got back into plastic modelling a few months ago, I searched out my trusty, but old Badger 155 Anthem. It had been laid up for many, many years and the trigger action felt like i was rubbing two bricks together. On taking it apart I found real difficulty in removing the needle. Applying a drop of penetrating oil and alittle ptience solved that problem, but even after a thourogh cleaning its feel and performance left much to be desired. I dropped it into my ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. It uses water with a few drops of proprietary US cleaning fluid (detergent) added. After this it
  10. Hmm, I was looking at these sheets to cut some replacement decals for my Fouga Magister from AMK. The kit was generally excellent, but the decals where not. They took an age to release, did not slide, did not adhere well and broke up very easily. This is even after applications of micro sol and micro set. I still need to add the white stipes on the wing tip tanks but they have a 2D curve, so it's a big ask for any waterslide decal anyway. Logically I would mask the tip tanks up and spray the white in, but the adhesion problems I have had with acrylic paints has me worried that that route
  11. Merry Christmas everyone. Thank you for welcoming me in and for the advice.
  12. No, Its just my spelling of the name. Its the same company, Cartograf. I think they will still have a samples book from them at my old office. We used them for the more specialised types of labels. I wrote graph instead of graf out of habit.
  13. Hobo, what makes you think that they make their own inks? I would be very surprised if this where true, as this is the chemical industry, not the printing industry. Its much more likely that they have an excellent working relationship with one, perhaps two ink manufacturers thta fulfil their needs. I do not think that that is what makes them so clever. I think they use a high end modern screen printing process and can add litho CMYK 4 colour scale to that. Whether they do that on two separate machines, or whether they have built a "perfector press" that does both mixed processes in one pa
  14. Hi All, I thought I would offer a different tip on how to paint tyres. Sorry in advance if everbody knows this already, but here goes. First I paint the hub and allow to dry. Then I fix the wheel to a cocktail stick. Often I have the cut off the very tip. Just jam it on hard and ensure that its perpendicular to the stick. Then I get a good brush, medium size, but it must have a good pointed tip. I also thin the paint somewhat so that It flow well and I never use black. Having loaded my brush with paint, I apply the tip of the brush to the tyre right up against the rim. Then I gently spin
  15. Thanks Guys, I will order some today. Can it be used over enamels as well as acrylics? Cheers John
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