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elger

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Everything posted by elger

  1. I'm finishing the flight deck and the floors - and getting the parts ready to fit into the fuselage halves. Some changes to the kit parts - in addition to adding most of the Eduard interior bits I made a hole in the bombardier's floor, and covered it with a thin clear plastic disk. I'm also adding the hose for the hot air that was fitted to the very front of the bombardier's floor. I added seat cushions to the pilot seats from sheet styrene, cut to size and added a bit of texture. There was some difficulty fitting the Eduard instruments panel onto the console in this assembly sequence - the PE parts of the instruments panel on top of the PE parts added to the console made these components not fit anymore and I ended up filing a gap in the lower section of the instruments panel. Not sure if this was my fault, but if you're planning on using these aftermarket parts keep an eye on this. Although I generally really like Airfix kits, I wasn't impressed with the fit of the components of the ball turret. All oxygen bottles are from Quickboost by the way. Only the guns left - the PE ammo belts are always very tricky...
  2. Thanks! Acrylic base (Mig Ammo) sealed with a clear gloss coat with dark brown oil paint streaks on top.
  3. B-17G 43-37913 named "Seattle Sleeper" took part in the bombing mission to the rail road viaduct at Altenbeken on Sunday, November 26th, 1944. It would be the aircraft's 33rd mission. (photo from https://www.americanairmuseum.com/media/26025 (IWM)) The aircraft had been called "Lucky 13" before, but changed its name when it was taken over by a new 1st pilot, 1st Lt. John Stevens. Stevens, who was 21 at the time, was from Seattle himself. On the 26th, the co-pilot was 2nd Lt. Stanley Johnston (21) from Oregon - it was his third mission. That day the navigator was 1st Lt. John Weisgarber (22) who changed shifts to this flight as it would be his 33rd, coming close to his final mission. The radio operator was Sgt. Rene Pratt (21) from California. This mission would be his 25th. Sgt Quilla Reed (22) was the flight engineer. Sgt. Mabry (Don) Barker (24) was the bomb aimer. The mission on the 26th was supposed to be his last. Sgt. Robert (Bob) Anderson (24) was the ball turret gunner. Sgt Richard (Dick) Trombley (25) was the only waist gunner on board. Sgt Henry (Hank) St. George (21) was the tail gunner. The aircraft's position was in the back of the formation, and according to Slofstra and De Boer's book about the aircraft's crash, it was Johnston the co-pilot who was responsible for maintaining the throttle who let the aircraft fall behind the formation. Despite warnings from the crew, they were unable to catch up and when the formation was attacked by Luftwaffe fighters, Seattle Sleeper was an easy target. Heavily damaged by enemy fire, the aircraft lost altitude but the pilots maintained control and ended up in the clouds. Assessing their odds, they decided to fly back to England. However, the damage was too severe and by the time the aircraft was over The Netherlands the crew abandoned the aircraft - not a minute too soon because shortly after the last crew member had evacuated the aircraft it exploded. The crew landed by parachute around the town of Haulerwijk, not far from the city of Groningen. Debris and wreckage also landed around the town, not causing any significant damage. Pilot 1/Lt. J.R. Stevens evaded capture Co-Pilot 2/Lt. S.F. Johnston evaded capture Navigator 1/Lt. J.C. Weisgarber taken prisoner of war at Norg (Drenthe) Bombardier T/Sgt. M.D. Barker evaded capture Engineer T/Sgt. Q.D. Reed evaded capture Right Waist Gunner T/Sgt. R.P. Pratt taken prisoner of war at Norg (Drenthe) Ball Turret Gunner T/Sgt. R.T. Anderson taken prisoner of war near Noordwijk Waist Gunner S/Sgt. R.A. Trombley evaded capture Tail Gunner S/Sgt. H.M. St.George evaded capture The crash - but also the context in The Netherlands as well as that of the USAAF, and its aftermath with the narratives of the escapees is described extensively in Slofstra and De Boer's book. The title, Vliegers op de Vlucht, is a play on words as "flight" in Dutch is the same as "on the run" - the title translates as something like "Flyers on the run" and "Flyers in flight". I've been working on the model for a few months now, making rather slow progress. I'm adding some parts of Eduard's interior sets, and adding oxygen tanks from Quickboost. Deviating slightly from the build sequence by adding the clear cheek window parts at this stage, masking them from the inside in an attempt to blend them in with the rest of the fuselage. Here's the interior so far: I'm still working on the flight deck and the floor of the nose, and I'm also going to be adding the guns from the inside (leaving the barrels off until the end). As always, thanks for looking!
  4. Don't know the 217, but the 17 and 215 have an issue with the tail unit being represented somewhat simplified/inaccurate. There's a resin set that addresses the issue; this review explains the problem quite well: https://archive.aeroscale.net/review/10945/ No other major issues I can think of. Built the 215 a few years back, good decent kit. Somewhat heavy panel lines but nothing too bad.
  5. I remember reading about this as well, some years ago, but couldn't find it anymore. Thanks for suggestion.
  6. Hello all, I've started work on a late B-17G and having read through a lot of threads over the last decades about B-17 interior colours I've decided to paint all the doors on the inside a wood colour. So far so good. However, on some of the doors there are some details - for example on the door from the flight deck to the bomb bay there is a detail, but also on the door between the radio operator's section to the rear fuselage/ball turret area. See part #22 on this Eduard PE sheet: The question, as you might have guessed is, what is going on with the door there? The actual PE part is solid, but does the detail represent a window? What about the door from the flightdeck to the bomb bay - some kind of placard? Any insight about this is welcome!
  7. I have good experience with the quality of Eduard resin sets. Generally, I like the quality of their resin sets better than other bigger brands (CMK or Aires). They tend to fit a bit better, tend to have more detail, and tend to be more accurate. Also, their 1/48 B-17 engines look relatively simple as well (no separate cylinders) so without having seen any of the other options, if Eduard is in your price range you can assume that it'll be good.
  8. In my view it depends on when a Lancaster was built. Based on looking a many photos myself, my rule of thumb has become that early Lancasters were green on the inside entirely (including the bomb aimer section). Later Lancasters had black front interiors and the cockpit section green and black (not sure where the demarcation is exactly, or if it was consistent), and then the very late production types had entire black cockpit sections. Others may have more specific information of when these changes took place.
  9. I love nitpicking about details and shapes as the next member, and I would be really interested if part X of model kit Y is slightly off, but I think we should have some evidence (comparison kit parts to scale drawings, real-world measurements, and to some extent photos) before speculating about it further. So far, I have seen no evidence that there is anything wrong with the dimensions of the canopy of the HK Lancaster. If something does come up, I'd be most interested
  10. Somewhat related, here's a video made by some folks building a Hawker Typhoon about the tubular structure. Goes from giving background information to going into really awesome detail
  11. I have some Vallejo weathering pigments and they're the same quality as pigments from AK interactive or Ammo. Based on that I'd say it'll probably be fine. So I don't have any experience with Vallejo weathering effects, but depending on whether they're acrylic or enamel based I would say they will probably behave very similarly to stuff made by AK Interactive or Ammo. The manufacturers (Vallejo, AK, Ammo) have YouTube channels which demonstrate how these products can be used - maybe there's some illustrations of how to use those Vallejo products you are interested in in YouTube? (I find armour modelers on YouTube quite inspirational, there's Nightshift and Panzermeister36, two of my favourites. Plasmo builds all sorts of things but makes use of these kinds of products.) Although for all of these, I find that they make it look very easy to use but whenever I try their techniques it doesn't quite work in the same way. Maybe someone else here has experience with Vallejo weathering effects?
  12. I missed it completely, but according to this thread, Airfix actually corrected the nacelle on a later edition of the kit: Edit: So I did not read the entire thread when I posted this link; Airfix did not correct the nacelles
  13. For now I've given up the idea of a 1/72 F, so I'm going for a late G with the Airfix kit. Building one with a local connection, 43-37913 "Seattle Sleeper" https://www.americanairmuseum.com/aircraft/11919 The Quickboost B-24 hubs measurements are as follows: Front "dome" diameter: 3,2 mm Back "ring" diameter: 4,0 mm Length: 7,8 mm
  14. That would be great, thanks! If you have the measurements of what the size of the hubs should be then I can measure these parts too.
  15. Hi Mike - I was wondering; do you have any thoughts on the Quickboost propeller set for the Academy B-24? The hubs are much bigger, would they be overscale? What should the size be of 1/72 B-17 propeller hubs?
  16. I had not seen this footage before. Title of the video says 1944 but I'm also seeing early Forts, as well as footage that must be 1945 (food supplies to The Netherlands)
  17. I've used those teardrop templates that at least used to come on almost every Eduard PE fret. Heated up some clear sprue over a candle and forced it through the template. A lot of misses before I got a couple of usable ones. When the plastic has cooled off carefully cut off the teardrop shaped blob and glued to the tip of a toothpick with some white glue. Paint with clear blue (or whatever colour you need) and they look quite reasonable:
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