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Everything posted by elger

  1. Not forgetting about details such as the landing gear... Should have it finished this week!
  2. Did some panel lining with Tamiya enamel wash - but the effect is rather heavy. Considering redoing it with brown, rather than black... Thoughts?
  3. Thanks! I did the more traditional marbling and leaving the panel lines darker in areas that had large panels (like the belly underside and the cowl). The reverse preshading appears to have the most convincing effect in areas where there are small panels. But I do realize that the optical oil canning illusion that it aims to create is that the panels are recessed (that they are 'sucked' into the surface in the middle and are raised where the panel/rivet lines are) rather than that they are bulging out (being raised in the middle of the panel and the panel/rivet lines being recessed).
  4. Decals are on A couple of stencils I used from the kit (the kit has stencils for the early Curtiss Electric propeller) but most are from Kits-World. I ended up needing to buy a second of their P-47 stencils and insignia sheet because 42-7924 had national insignia on both lower wings so I needed a third set. The radio code and the serial number also came from Kits-World decal sheets. I made the "F" out of another "P". The Kits-World decals are very nice to use, although the white is a little translucent. I did some more work 'restoring' the name Mike III and now it looks acceptable. The underside with the stars on both wings: I've already sealed the decals with a coat of clear gloss. Next up: weathering. As always, thanks for looking!
  5. Using my Silhouette Cameo cutter I created a mask for the aircraft's name, "Mike III". I'm guessing yellow paint was used. It came out alright (hope the minor touch ups needed will fade under a coat of clear flat) Now it's ready for decals: Thanks for looking!
  6. @VolkerR. fantastic work! A question: do you know if the engines and the sound work without the lights or without some of the lights? I'm considering this myself but I don't want to install some of the lights but I'm wondering if that messes up the entire 'system'.
  7. The underside received the same 'reverse preshading' treatment. First a coat of lightened Neutral Gray: Next this was filled in with Neutral Gray mixed with clear gloss and this was misted on. The fuselage centre and the cowl was treated with the more traditional marbling. There's a couple of touch ups needed but overall the main paint job has gone rather well. This was my second use of AK Interactive Third Generation acrylics and they went on very smoothly. Thanks for looking!!
  8. The Olive Drab is on and the shades and highights are still just visible Next Neutral Gray.
  9. I did not take a picture of the white ID bands, but I did snap one after priming it black with Mig One Shot: After this coat, I'm trying something new: instead of pre-shading I'm going to see what the result is of "reverse pre-shading" in the sense that I painted all the panel and rivet lines with a light version of Olive Drab. My thinking is that when I follow this up with a thin coat of regular Olive Drab the panel lines might look elevated and the darker bits recessed, creating a bit of oil canning effect. (I think regular preshading gets it the wrong way around) Just a little experiment: I'll update you about the results
  10. Thanks! As a sort of easter egg with the photo background I used this Spitfire is operating on a certain ice planet from a well known space movie franchise
  11. One detail I had postponed until now was the 108 gallon fuel tank. Even though it's not great I'll be using the kit item - I think I'm going to sand down the ridges at the front and back. More importantly however I decided to add the pipes. I carefully bent some stretched clear sprue to simulate the glass pipes of the plumbing. There was a very useful thread over on LSP that I used for reference: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/92155-anyone-have-any-decent-photos-of-p47-flat-belly-tank-plumbing/ As always, thanks for looking!
  12. Thanks! Both are Vallejo Model Color paints; the green is 70980 Black Green and the grey is 70869 Basalt Grey.
  13. The fit of the kit is not exactly great - lots of issues with the panels on the wings. Spent quite a bit of time filling and sanding but finally it was ready for paint: Starting off with a nice coat of Tamiya primer: I'll paint the white recognition markings next, and then the main camouflage. Thanks for looking!
  14. Wheel wells painted and finished: And happy to finally have a distinctly Thunderbolt-shaped object on my desk: Thanks for looking!
  15. I have changed my mind since. I think they should be yellow on wartime aircraft.
  16. Finishing the wheel wells. Adding most of the Eduard detail set here: Deviating slightly from the build sequence by adding the upper wing halves to the fuselage first. My idea is to paint the interior of the wells first, and then close them up with the lower part. Thanks for looking!
  17. Thanks! I'm still making some progress. A little heads up for anyone interested in building this kit - the elevators and stabilizers won't fit right unless you make a little notch in the mating section on the tailplane like this:
  18. With the engine finished I'm turning my attention to the wings. I'm replacing the kit's barrels with brass ones from Master. These come with a ridge at the rear which makes it impossible to fit them after the wing is together and an additional problem is that it's difficult to insert the barrels properly into the rear part. I solved these problems by first filing off the ridges on the barrels. I also glued styrene tube with the exact diameter of the barrels onto the rear part of the gun creating a tunnel that will be used to guide the brass barrels exactly into their correct place. Thanks for looking!
  19. finished the engine: First painted with Vallejo Dark Aluminium, then a wash of Mig Ammo's acrylic Starship Filth. Next, the details were painted with Vallejo and AK Third Gen paints, and then everything was given another wash of acrylic Starship Filth, and then everything was covered with Vallejo clear flat. As always, thanks for looking!
  20. engine update! I had learned that the magnetos that Trumpeter supplies are not accurate for early Ds. I purchased a resin Quickboost P-47 engine designed for the Hasegawa kit so that I could use its bits and bobs that go on the gear housing. The set also includes the pitch control box for the Curtiss Electric propeller. All the parts fitted, and added some wiring and scratch built items: Another feature of the D-1 that I really wanted to include were the early type cowl flaps; with this configuration, the lower two flaps extend the same length back as the others. I started by sanding off the kit cowl flaps from the ring - in the photo below you can see the original configuration on the left: Next, I simply made some new cowl flaps out of thin styrene sheet cut to size, and glued them on. (I had to repair a little bit of damage on one of the other flaps): And dry fitting it to the fuselage: As always, thanks for looking!
  21. Quickboost has propellers for the HK kit - they -might- fit https://www.scalemates.com/kits/quickboost-qb49012-lancaster-mki-propellers--1414448
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