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Everything posted by elger

  1. Love the nit picking! I'll see if I can replace the rifle. Did anyone notice I glued the wrong left arms on the cream coloured resin figures? Neither did I until I started painting them
  2. Really awesome build of this kit and great NMF. Pilot should be black though - as this is Spurgeon Ellington's aircraft. Ellington was one of the Tuskegee Airmen (and he was from Winston-Salem, NC, which happens to be the home town of my wife). But maybe on this occasion the aircraft was flown by a white pilot
  3. It depends - officially the only difference between the mk I and mk III are the engines (Packard built Merlins for the III). Lancaster windows are a much debated issue. Generally speaking, early Lancasters had them, and late Lancasters didn't have them. Some early Lancasters that were sent back to the factory for overhauls had the windows over painted or removed. Best way to determine it is to look for photographs of the aircraft you are building at the time of service - or aircraft of a similar serial range (DV201 will likely have had a configuration similar to DV202 if they were
  4. discussed here back in April:
  5. Some years ago I came across the concept art by Jakub Rozalski. Some of his work pertains to a re-imagining of the 20s, 30s, and 40s with robots. In my early teenage years I visited the casemate museums at Kornwerderzand several times. These weren't bunkers, I vividly remember the guide telling us on our first visit, but casemates. Kornwerderzand on the western shore end of the Afsluitdijk was one of the rare strongholds that was able to withstand the invasion of Nazi-Germany in May 1940. Nazi-Germany invaded on May the 10th, 1940 and reached K
  6. Decent review of the Aires engines on YouTube:
  7. I had both kits and ended up building the Revell I/II as a Vb and using a few parts of Hobbyboss for spares. I remember toying with similar ideas, here's what I recall: The Revell and Hobbyboss front fuselages have different dimensions and shapes. Perhaps not so much the width, but the Revell nose is much taller than Hobbyboss. The sides of the engine side covers are almost 2 mm taller on the Revell kit as I recall, so you can't just swap the engine panels. The shape of the parts is different in cross section - The Revell kit fuselage is more oval (really egg shaped) in
  8. In my opinion it is a rather poor colorization - none of the colours look really right: the colours of the aircraft look wrong but also the entire environment (compared to some other colorized images that could convince you they were taken yesterday). More importantly however, we don't know the process of the colorization of this particular image. I would not trust the difference in colour between the red of the roundel and the code letters at all in this image.
  9. That is amazing! Thank you for sharing! I was wondering, what is your relation to Richard Klein?
  10. Some BOAC (Civilian operated) Mosquito IVs also appeared in the temperate scheme of Dark Earth, Dark Green, and Sky
  11. You can tell in one of the photos in Mark Davies' thorough comparison of the three modern Lancaster kits on Hyperscale: The comparison of the engine air intakes of the three is towards the end (together with the main wheels) and you can clearly tell that Revell's are much wider and more square than the other two. Similar to the issue with the 1/32 HK Models, discussed here for example. https://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/6104-hk-models-132-lancaster-hints-tweaks-and-tips/page/5/
  12. Main issues as far as I'm concerned: Compared to Airfix, the surface detail of the Hasegawa kit is much, much nicer. The Hasegawa kit is easier to build with much better fitting parts than Airfix. Compared to Revell, the Hasegawa shape is more accurate - especially the nacelles, the curve at the rear and the front intakes. The Revell's air intakes are approprate for late-war and post-war versions. The wheels of the Hasegawa kit are much better. The Revell kit's dihedral is not exactly right - Hasegawa is better than Revell here. The Hasegawa has the least amount of
  13. brave! This morning I happened to cycle past the crash site of Hampden AE185 - they've put up a monument recently. https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/53211
  14. Yeah Roy Sutherland and Lynn Ritger are also skeptical; on Facebook, Roy just said
  15. So far I've used AMMO for Interior Green, and Dark Earth and Dark Green myself. I quite liked how their Interior Green looks right from the bottle, but I made my own mixes for Dark Earth and Dark Green because I do not like their premade colours for those two. I used these mixes (and the Interior Green from the bottle) for my 1/72 Lancaster - you can see the photos here and I also mention the colours I used for the mixes and the ratios. I might make the Dark Earth a little more brown next time however though. From the bottle, I think Sky looks acceptable and so does Medium Sea Gre
  16. No not quite - I destroyed the D-type nose parts in the process, so I only had parts for a completely nose-less aircraft. Useful parts went into the spares box, the rest have been discarded.
  17. the base is from Noy's Miniatures. The Dodge is a great little build - goes together really easily except the windscreen - take care with that.
  18. I finished my kitbash of Hasegawa's B-24D and Minicraft's B-24M to build B-24H 42-7650 which made a crash landing in the occupied Netherlands on November 13th, 1943. Build thread here: Apart from a few accuracy issues the Hasegawa kit is great. Minicraft is a bit more crude, but not so much worse to justify the price difference in my opinion so if you want to build a B-24D or J the older and cheaper Minicraft kit is a very good option. The Minicraft nose does fit the Hasegawa fuselage - but modifications are necessary. The Minicraft nose is slimmer than the Hasegawa fuselage
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