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Everything posted by GrahamCC

  1. Me too. Well done. Have you considered a wash using a darker shade silver perhaps with a drop of raw sienna or umber? I always try for subtlety, shadows after all are not black but rather dark tones of the surrounding area. Your 1/144 builds has me thinking of trying something in scale just to get me out of my comfort zone and try and stir up the creative juices a bit. cheers, Graham
  2. Another short update ... Progress is slow getting the last little bits done up before paint. As previously described, some of the resin cast bits in this kit are less than useable. The scissors ( thank you Pete ), the nosewheel gear, gear doors, and a few others. I spent some time fussing what to do with the nosewheel gear. A couple of attempts of carving scrap plastic and brass bits to shape resulted in some nice pieces but nothing close to what I wanted as they all just didn't right. Stepping back and taking a closer look at a couple of pictures and then glancing back
  3. An aircraft made in such large numbers and still obscure is what makes this type another favourite of mine. I do like the Finish markings. Used in over a dozen different countries including the Free French Airforce would provide enough interesting schemes that could keep anyone building variations for quite some time. Your build has me searching for a kit. As you and others are aware, the U-2 was flown by the all female Soviet Night Witches during WW-II in a very effective harassing role. There is a very well done Russian series by StarMedia called the "Night Swallows"
  4. Worked continued with the fixing in place of the tiny horizontal stabilizer on top of the vertical fin. This was the easiest bit done this past week. Also added where the long wing tip probes made from 0.5mm brass rod. A bit more fussy work with that 0.5mm carbide PCB drill into a very thin leading edge. A tip for using CA glues. As you know, these seem to get everywhere - on your fingers, on bits adjacent to where you are trying to affix something, etc. CA debonder works very well at cleaning up these oops. Acetone can be used but I found purpose made p
  5. I made a mistake in this statement - both of the vac form kits show the tail bumper on their drawing but I am not familiar enough with the kits to say how this detail is included and as for the Olimp Pro Resin kit, the box top drawing shows the bumper but it is not included on either of fuselage halves nor is there a wee tiny bit of resin included that could be use for this detail. I added the bumper to my build using a bit of scrap plastic fixed in place with CA. On the end of each wing is a pod and probe. I have not found much information on just what the purpose of these were bu
  6. Work continues on the Fairey but obviously at a slow pace. My workbench is a shared space for my model building and other interests. Having such a shared space means that I must from time to time clear off one project so that I can work on something else. I can be bit frustrating and a bit enthusiasm sapping. In any case, I cleared off a couple of other domestic tasks and found some time to work on the Fairey. References are generally important when we build something as we would like to get things as correct as possible. However, there is a balance between fussing too
  7. I know exactly what you mean... In fact, I didn't even paint my models as a kid. I liked the building process, but I had no idea how to paint them and the times I tried the result was... not satisfactory. So I relied totally on the colour of what they put in the box Indeed, as a wee lad building was fun and easy, painting was a struggle as I had little choice of paints and not much in the way of a paint brush. I can't forget those old 48 scale Aurora kits moulded in glorious coloured plastic - purple Messerschmitt 109, black Focke Wulf 190, yellow Japanese Zero, blue P-38 (
  8. I quite like the look of it now, subtle and not too overdone either weather or war weary nor to too freshly done up. cheers, Graham
  9. this sounds interesting, count me in. cheers, Graham
  10. This is a technique that is used by enthusiasts of old computer like the the Amiga and Apple II to clean, refresh, and brighten the covers of these old devices. You will find quite a few videos on youtube demonstrating the technique. The 8 bit guy is one poster who has a few nice videos. Involves hydrogen peroxide and in one of his tests rather than using a UV light he put his piece in a container covering with a translucent cover and then placed outside on a bright sunny day. However, I have never tried this technique. cheers, Graham
  11. Monday SITREP. Work continues but at a leisurely pace. I managed to spend a handful of hours working on the Fairey this past week, small but important bits have been added, trimmed, broken off, re-attached and repaired along with seemingly endless pin hole filling. The surface of the resin parts are good but the fuselage side which was larger than the other ( right hand side ) when trimmed back to match the left revealed many tiny pin holes just lurking beneath the surface. My latest approach to tackling these pin holes as well as just general seam filling h
  12. fill the interior of the canopy with blue ( or white ) tac for support. Also, as already mentioned a new or nearly so sharp bit in a pin vise and gentle touch. And, use a bit of water as a cutting fluid. cheers, Graham
  13. Fair enough. I tried a few more searches uses different terms and only found a few threads on a couple of modeling forums from years ago. cheers, Graham
  14. Ceramic fiber - interesting. Where does one get such thing? Google searches found lots of ceramic fiber insulation but I did not stumble across anything resembling anything like discribed. cheers, Graham
  15. Of the three V bombers the Valiant was always my favourite. The Vulcan was pretty cool and I got to see one in Goose many years ago. In fact XL361 is still on display there right beside Vulcan road. I always though the Victor was very futuristic looking and thought it quite fitting as an experimental aeroplane in the movie Iron Maiden. I will have to keep my eye open for another Welsh models 1/144 Valiant. Had one years ago but traded to someone who at the time wanted it more than I. cheers, Graham
  16. Adam, I sympathize. I can too easily get lost down bunny holes. The more I research the fussier I get. Analysis paralysis. In the end it is all good as long as you learn to control and not let it control you. cheers, Graham
  17. That is a trick an old tool maker taught me many (many) years ago. Apparently the chalk used by railroads for marking cars and such was better than todays common garden variety dollar store chalk but I have never been able to find out what the difference was or ever find any real railroad chalk to try. Another trick was to use the same cutting oil on your files as you would use for other metal machining tasks but I think you would want to keep that oil away from your plastic or resin parts and once the file is soaked in oil it was best left that way. Another trick I use is to use p
  18. That was a very good description of "how to" soldering white metal kits. Most of my experience is in soldering electronic devices including hand soldering SMD parts as small as 0402 and of course much brass bits for model making. I have never assembled a white metal kit of any sort but now I am looking around for something so that I give it a go. If I was to add anything it would be be that 90% of the job is preparation - clean, clean, and don't skimp on the flux. A couple of links that some may find of interest. They may be a bit dated and electronic component oriente
  19. Fairey FD.1 Saturday SITREP ... Had some time to spend in the workshop today and got a little further on with the Fairey FD.1 After a couple of days of fussing I finally had a simple jig set up which was repeatable and not overly difficult to set up. Using my make do surface plate comprised of a 5/8" thick piece of glass, wings taped to a couple of 123 blocks and carefully aligned using a Starrett surface gauge, fuselage sat atop a piece of packing foam carefully shaped and shimmed with strategically placed card stock and using a Moore & Wright 5 inch square everyt
  20. my thoughts exactly. I am looking forward to the less than a tenner group build so that I can indulge in just making something simpler. cheers, Graham
  21. I have used variety of paints to represent clear doped linen including your choices and Tamiya Deck tan and a few others. Lately I have been using Liquitex soft body acrylics. These brush nicely and can be reduced using Liquitex airbrush medium to thin them out for brushing or airbrushing. A 59ml bottle goes a long way. The colour of choice I have been trying is called Parchment and to my eye is pretty close. Of course a wee bit of white or brown or grey and adjust to liking. https://www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/soft-body-acrylic/ cheers, Graham
  22. I've been experimenting with UV resins for some time. The one I have been using is a product by Solarez https://www.solarez.com/ They have thick hard, thin hard, and flexible types among a wide variety of other products. The thin hard can also be mixed with acrylic powder to make a paste which works well for gap filling and filleting. But then again, slow cure CA is also suitable. Very interesting thing these UV resin's. The beauty industry uses them on finger nails for nail art and that sort of thing. Also popular with fishermen who make their own lures,
  23. The past dozen days or so has seen the continuation of cleaning up of the pour stubs on the resin pieces and careful test fitting of pieces together. But all was not without fraught. As I continued work at cleaning up the individual pieces it became clear that there seems as though some parts of the kit were cast in one type of resin and some in another. Very close in colour but texture is different; one is softer and more porous and grainy and the other a bit harder and far less porous and grainy. If you look closely at the picture of kit of parts you may see a slight difference i
  24. Very interesting. I had never considered sunscreen to have this sort of property but apparently it is quite common. Likely caused by the sunscreen containing polyethylene glycol otherwise referred to as PEG PEG is an interesting chemical and is found in many products including laxatives, personal lubricants, wood preservatives, paintballs, and even rocket fuel. For a quick summary: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyethylene_glycol Learn something new every day. cheers, Graham
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