ColonelKrypton

Also the Panzer III Ostwind There are suitable AFV subject for this topic, just have to keep digging around in muck to find them cheers, Graham

On the contrary, it is already starting to look like a Fiat 2000 heavy tank. What are you planning for the tracks? Individual 3D printed links or links and lengths or ??? cheers, Graham

But so far no AFV's or rockets or spaceships or ... There is the flakpaner IV Wirbelwind but I am not much of a fan of German armour. I see I have my task cut out - look under rocks and brush and see what I can find, there must be something unusual and interesting to be found. cheers, Graham

Interesting idea and sounds like fun, please add my name to the list. However, I have no idea what I would build so I will have to start searching around for something interesting. cheers, Graham

A very interesting choice. I will be following along. 3D printers certainly add a new tool to scratchbuilding. I have given a lot of thought as to whether I should I embrace the technology knowing that the learning curve will be very steep. I am sitting on the fence as I don't know whether I would enjoy spending lots of time at the computer creating the necessary CAD files to be able to print my design or spending lots of time messing about with bits of plastic, resin, wood, and brass in order to build something up from basic materials - each has their merits and perhaps the better solution lies somewhere in between. cheers, Graham

That is a very creative solution for adding the recessed bolt heads and the result looks quite nice. I have made a note. Beats drilling a large shallow hole and trying to drop in a bit of smaller hex rod and getting it all centered up to represent the bolt head. The wheel is coming together very nicely and looking the part. cheers, Graham

Indeed. I have a couple of local stores that I check out from time to time - lots of good interesting bits of photoetch, plastic add on bits, and decals. The local dollar store is another favourite hobby store - lots of interesting bits of wood and what not that are easily repurposed. Plastruct has quarter and half round styrene rods in their offerings but I don't recall seeing anything quite as large as the plastic bit you found. One of platruct's markets is the industrial and commercial model builders and have all sorts of interesting bits and pieces. There is a relatively local supplier here in Canada called Model Builders Supply which has a lot of this sort of plastic stuff. https://modelbuilderssupply.com/ I am sure there must be a similar supplier in Australia. Paper, card, cardstock, chip board - all good for templates and can even be used for bits for finished models, lots of possibilities Panzerhaubitze 2000 is looking good. cheers, Graham

It has been quite some time since I last updated this thread but I have not been idle. First off, this is the Bronco kit this build is being based on, The tan coloured bits are from an Airfix/Academy M3 Grant that I thought might be useful and the tracks are a set of MiniArt WE-210 waffle ( or double H ) pattern tracks. My first thoughts on this kit are that it was not too bad being the only game in town for a Ram Tank other than some very limited run custom kits that have been around. However, after sorting through the bits, test fitting, and comparing to references my opinion has been tempered somewhat. The road wheels, return rollers, and idler wheels are all too narrow and the parts themselves seem a bit too "delicate" - that is, a bit on the smallish size. That won't do and I think I will salvage those parts from an incomplete Airfix M3 Grant. Those Airfix parts are not perfect either seeming to be a bit too big. The drive sprocket from the Bronco kit is the better of the bunch between the Airfix M3 Grant and the Bronco Ram - right shape, fit the MiniArt tracks nicely, but perhaps a bit on the delicate side as well. Nothing is perfect and we can't have everything. Interesting the Tasca early VVSS parts are overall better being somewhere between the Bronco and the Airfix parts BUT the drive sprocket isn't quite right for a M3 Grant / Ram. And this is where I stalled for a couple of weeks trying to decide whether or not to start cutting on the Bronco Ram hull in order to use the Airfix parts or not. Once I started there was no going back. In any case, in order to build the Ram ARV Mk.I I needed to identify what changes where needed to change the Ram Mk.II (early) into a Mk.I. As far as is obvious are the exhausts on the Mk.I are the pepper pot style and would need to be changed and there is the gun mantlet as well as the Mk.I used the mantlet and 2 pounder from the Valentine tank. There are other differences but they are less obvious. Nothing ventured, nothing gained - I decided to go ahead with using the Airfix M3 Grant running gear; no going back now and if I mess this up then the build will likely be over. So far, the mods are going swimmingly and this is where I am now at I am happier now with the Airfix M3 Grant running gear in place - the MiniArt tracks fit well, and the Bronco drive sprocket does better look the part than the Airfix one. One item that the Airfix/Academy kit does not have are the small triangular reinforcing gussets on the bottom side of the hull. The Bronco Ram parts have them but I didn't use those bits, the MiniArt M3 Lee / Grant kits have them and so do the Tasca parts. Even though they will not be seen on the finished model I went ahead and added some roughly shaped triangular bits. To top it all off, I have been having a bit of rethink on where I am going with this build. I frequently review my reference photos that I have collected and I find myself spending a lot time looking over the photos of the Ram tank production at the Montreal Locomotive works, not the later marks but the very first ones off the line - what could be more interesting than a fresh AFV resplendent in it's red oxide primer just after it rolls of the assembly floor? At the moment I am sitting on the fence trying to decide which way to fall - continue the build as the Ram ARV Mk.I or as an early Ram Mk.I just off the assembly floor at the Locomotive works. In either case I will need to continue with the identified mods of converting the Mk.II (early) to a Mk.I. Here is my food for thought: The vehicle in the lower right corner is number 5 and the one I pattern my build on if I fall that way. ( number 2 on the left, number 4 behind it. I kind of like the look without the fenders. To be continued .... Cheers, Graham

Just keeps getting better and better - well done. cheers, Graham

I see you are still struggling with the wheels for the artillery piece. Wheels look so easy but in reality can be anything but. I have spent the last couple of weeks playing around with ideas on how to make the wheels for my Isotta-Fraschini armoured car. Many diversions away from making artillery style spoked wheels but every little side adventure brings with it goods ideas. In fact I am much closer to having something acceptable for the wheels of my Poplavko Jeffery armoured car build and yet another side project of the same sort. Much time has been spent delving into the intricacies of paper card modeling techniques which after all where the source of inspiration of this build, a few more of your builds, and numerous builds of my own. I have cut hundreds of small and largish circles and rings from heavy weight cardstock, mixed-media and watercolour artists paper, plastic card, and brass plus many, many other bits and pieces. I have also been exploring the possibilities of using jewellers carving wax as a prototyping material - I think it has lots of possibilities not only for prototyping a master from which to make a mold but it could also be used to make a finished piece. Wax you ask? Yes indeed - it's not the common soft bee's wax or paraffin wax your gran probably used when canning jam. Jewellers carving wax is much harder and easy enough to cut, grind, drill, sand, and machine. I had to go looking for some pictures of the Gun Carrier MK.I and the BL 6inch 26cwt Howitzer just so I could get a good look at the wheels. There does seem to be some variety in the wheels used on these artillery pieces. Going down the path you are heading seems to be a good compromise especially on a model of this size. I am sure it will look the part once completed. You may have already found this good reference or the BL 6 inch 26cwt howitzer but just in case you have not: https://viewer.slv.vic.gov.au/?entity=IE5329457&mode=browse ( view online or down as PDF ) The State Library in Victoria (Australia) has quite a few very interesting historical documents that can be viewed online or downloaded as PDFs. On pages 102 and 103 of the linked to document you will find a couple of very nice period photographs of this artillery piece providing a very nice view of the shape of the spokes. As already noted, I did find some variety in the wheels of these period artillery pieces some of which where much more rounded and oval shaped than what I see in this document. Bubbles when casting - always a challenge. Some time ago I started to use a cheap syringe with a blunt tip dispensing needle for "injecting" resin into molds. Also works well for dispensing resin into simple open face molds as well. Since I have starting using this technique I get near zero bubbles. For small bits I use a 5mL syringe with a 14g ( green ) blunt tip dispensing needle, suck up the mixed resin, invert syringe and gently expel any excess air from the syringe ( use a paper towel ) and then inject the resin in the mold by gently inserting the needle deep into the mold and slowly dispensing the resin working your way back out of the mold leaving a generous overpour on top ( easier to clean up a bit extra that trying to file holes ). I get the syringes and dispensing tips in bulk from Amazon. There are two types of dispensing tips - those with a metal ( usually stainless steel ) tip and those that are a tapered plastic tip. I prefer the tapered plastic tip but the metal ones have their other uses too. My preference is for a 14g tip but a bit smaller or larger would be OK too. The syringes can be reused. I typically get at least a half dozen uses from each one, sometimes a few more. After dispensing the resin into the mold I dispense any extra and then use methyl alcohol to clean the tip and syringe and then wipe with a paper towel. cheers, Graham

A very nice start to an unusual subject. I think there is something very pleasurable and rewarding in the challenge of taking such a rough and coarse short run kit and turning it into something interesting and nicely done. Some of my more pleasurable and rewarding builds have been from inexpensive other modeler discards found in the bargain bin at the local hobby store. cheers, Graham

Gum erasers, new toothbrushes, and there are brass and stainless steel versions of the glass fibre as well. You can also use a small rotary wire brush in rotary tool too. All will get the job done. I tend to not use the glass fibre just to limit the amount wee tiny bits of glass fibre on the workbench that seem to get everywhere whenever I use one as I don't like the thought of getting said bit of glass fibre sliver stuck in a finger or elsewhere. cheers, Graham

I think you are correct Captain McBoatface. Price seemed a bit high for a paper card model but laser cut thicker stock makes more sense now. cheers, Graham

I get it. I tried posting multiple updates for the same subject in more than one form before. It became rather confusing and quickly took away all the pleasure of the pursuit. As to Britmodeller, I couldn't agree more. cheers, Graham

Hmmm. I have trying to follow along the conversation but find myself a bit confused. I realize that you are referring to a paper/card model of the ship but the link takes me to a laser-cut wood kit of the HMS Alert. The paper card model I found here: https://model-shipyard.com/gb/sailing-ships/44-mk019-hms-alert-no-50.html Different scales and different materials. And, on the supper-hobby site I find several variations of the HMS Alert with very different prices. Jon, I am not sure which one you have on the way. Paper is an interesting material for model making. Kind of like a cross between using wood and plastic. Paper is wood when you think about it - just highly processed, kind of like the differenced between processed cheese and piece of nice cheddar. Just this morning I have been messing about with cutting bits of paper trying to make some wheels for a project. As I usually do, I have over engineered my method and will have to find a simpler path but it is all good - "Ancora Imparo". Following along on these builds is fascinating. The subject matter is interesting but I don't think I will join in with my own build. I have a soft spot for tugboats however and Jon's recent TID build has got the wheels turning. cheers, Graham

Fabulous, marvelous, captivating - very nicely done. Layer upon layer of detail waiting to be discovered. If anything it is too "perfect". I don't think I have ever see such neat and tidy junk yard before. If anything, the only thing else it needs is a junk yard dog. cheers, Graham

Thoroughly Ingenious Design.

Bertie, I was also following your build on Model Ship World but for some reason when I went looking forward just now I can no longer find it. Where did it go or can't I see the forest for the trees? cheers, Graham - took another quick look just in case I missed it before - nope, still don't see it.

yes please. Screen names are interesting as they provide a bit of insight into that person but it is always nice to have a real name to match up to that screen name. cheers, Graham

Indeed stunning. cheers, Graham

Rules, formal or unwritten, I think are more about mindset and the inability to see beyond the end of ones own nose. cheers, Graham

Now you're thinking. Why not try paper - i.e. cardstock maybe or better yet a mixed media or watercolour paper? Most are wood pulp based and easily glued using the same glues as you are using already. I have been messing about with using some watercolour paper ( 300gsm ) in the same way as I would plasticard and it is really not so different than using small bits of wood or plastic and the paper takes watercolours very nicely too. There is a Japanese train modeler who posts on youtube who makes very nicely done models using paper ( looks like cardstock ) for much of his construction ( plus balsa and other bits ). You might find some of his builds interesting: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu30DOMjaeEWj8PzsHOGi0A/videos cheers, Graham

Silly me, I didn't see it Cheers, Graham

I would agree. Add to that Golden High Flow and SoFlat acrylics. And Liquitex Acrylic inks and soft body acrylics ( plus all of the various mediums from both brands ). Their ranges may not be extensive as Vallejo or AK but with a select handful and a working knowledge of color theory you can create any color you desire. But we are getting away from the Humbrol work station core of this discussion. This sort of organizer may work for some but I find them too constraining but then I have a large workbench with stuff strewn all over and not a smallish corner desk to work on. cheers, Graham

I am of like mind. I tend to not post many replies unless I feel I have something to add as I don't much care for the "me too" kind of replies. Trunnels - very interesting in what you have done. The picture taken with the sideways light show them to good effect, in fact to the point when I first looked at the picture the trunnels appeared to convex standing a wee bit proud of the deck but I quickly realized that was just a trick of the light fooling my my feeble not quite awake morning brain. I do like to see some detail, especially if done in a such subtle way as you have done here - it's there to be discovered, not a "slap on the face, look at me" kind of detail. Bertie's Beagle is shaping up nicely. cheers, Graham