ColonelKrypton
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Posts posted by ColonelKrypton
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27 minutes ago, marvinneko said:
I have to travel to Ottawa today for a family health issue that might last days or weeks. Any recommendations for shops?
not the best reason to travel but a distraction is always welcome.
The best shop is The Hobby Center on Merivale road. Lots of parking, Tim Horton's near by and always lots of neat stuff, new, old, previously owned of all types. www.hobcen.com
There is also a great hobbies near the corner of Hunt Club and Merivale. All new stuff, ,mostly RC but might be a nice diversion.
Next on the list is Hobby House on just off Montreal road.. The oldest surviving shop in town. Big on trains and also plastics. I haven't been in a couple of years as it is a bit out of the way whenever I happen to be in the city. https://www.hobbyhouse.ca/
There are a number of Gunpla oriented shops too. Trinity Hobbies on Carling Ave springs to mind. https://trinityhobby.com/ I have never been in the store but have purchased online. Interesting selection of tools and details parts. I am actually about half way between Ottawa and Cornwall. Ordering online and paying for shipping is often cheaper than the gas needed to drive into the big city.
Best of luck on your travels.
cheers, Graham
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13 hours ago, marvinneko said:
I checked this out and was quite intrigued but reviews also note that it is quite brittle and can break cutting curves. I'm getting the sense these things need to be used with a very light hand.
I should have also mentioned that you may not need the thinnest 0.1mm engraving bit. There are a number of larger sizes up to (I think) 0.5mm. I have the 0.1mm and use it when only the thinnest blade will do otherwise I use the 0.25mm blade.
It is bewildering to try and decide which size blade would be the most suitable 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 - too expensive to buy them all and depending on your needs and wants it is likely that only one will suffice. I know I had a hard time trying to decide. The local hobby store didn't stock them so I had to do some online research and in the end just guessed, flipped a coin, and threw a dart which landed on the 0.25mm size which for my needs ended up being a good choice.
cheers, Graham
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18 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:
I bought one of these Tamiya saws a couple of months ago. It's brilliant. And it comes with a spare blade. Tamiya 300074024
That is another good saw. A bit large for most of my model making needs but an ideal size for other crafts and even a bit of woodwork cutting small trim and dovetails. A @Pete in Lincs describes - it's brilliant.
Patterned after Japanese Dozuki saws having a similar tooth profile ands cuts on the pull stroke. The blade is 0.3mm ( 0.012" ) thick with 1mm tooth pitch ( 25 tpi ). Overall about 12" (320mm) long and the blade itself is about 6" (150mm) long.
Incidentally, the Tamiya saw is made by Olfa rebranded for Tamiya. Most if not all of Tamiya's tools are made by some other Japanese company branded for Tamiya. Tamiya takes pride in the product lines and can always be counted on to select excellent partners to manufacture their products. The Olfa equivalent is the Olfa 125B Craft saw and the blades are interchangeable.
I did say earlier that I was a confirmed tool nut ( addict
).
cheers, Graham
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12 hours ago, marvinneko said:
these things need to be used with a very light hand.
always. You need to let the tool do the work. I have a couple of the Tamiya engraver bit and have yet to break one. They are made from tungsten carbide.
cheers, Graham
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I have a couple of these saws and wouldn't be without them. I also have a couple of true Zona razor saws - thicker and with a different kind of tooth profile - I also wouldn't be without them. I am a confirmed tool junkie
These Ninja Hyper cut saws sold through Flexi File are made by Shimomura Alex in Japan. And as @cmatthewbacon described are made differently than similar western tools - thinner, harder, with a different tooth profile. Their tooth profile is more like the tooth profile on Japanese pull saws.
http://shimomura-alec.co.jp/product/product.html#alk164 Lots ( lots ) of very interesting tools.
I have used those Tamiya and other brand photo etch stainless steel saws that you put in your Exacto or similar knife handle. I never got along well with them, always bending and never really cutting to my liking.
I have never broken a tooth off these saws but I have damaged a Zona razor saw by being too aggressive in it's use. Perhaps that is why I have never broken a tooth off of the more expensive Ninja saw, I learned earlier on the Zona to be more gentle
If it were me, I would use one of the Tamiya engraving blades: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tools/fine-engraving-blade-01mm/ Pricey yes but very well made and you do not need the Tamiya expensive handle to hold them. They are 2mm in diameter and I use a 2mm drafting lead holder pencil. You can use the engraving to remove said panel entirely or just to get started or on the round bits and the a saw on the long straight parts. Something else to consider to use a sewing thread. Yes, I said sewing thread - do a search on youtube, you will be surprised if you have never heard of this before.
And while on the subject of engraving blades, Shimoura Alec has you covered there as well: http://shimomura-alec.co.jp/product/pdf/alk216.pdf also pricey but of very good quality and ergonomics.
Incidentally, you can find these Ninja saws at hobby stores that cater to Gundam / Gunpla / etc builders but usually in their Shimomura package rather than the Flex File packaging.
Do be careful if you go tool shopping at one of the better Gunpla stores. If you have an affinity for good tools and are a tool junkie you will likely spend a lot more than you intended.
cheers, Graham
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count me in too, please and thank you.
cheers, Graham
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One of my favourites; add me to the list please and thank you.
cheers, Graham
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I somehow missed this one. I have a passing interest in trains and things railway. Sign me up for this one.
cheers, Graham
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In days of yore and still today, jewellers will often use liver of sulphur to darken copper and copper bearing metals including sterling silver ( which can contain several % of copper ) to add a dark brownish patina.
this is the same effect as @Tarby has described but using an eggshell on aluminum.
Copper and aluminum are reactive metals which oxidize ( darken ) when exposed to the sulphur and hydrogen sulfide gas emitted from the egg shell. Like all chemical reactions, heat hastens the process ( i.e. boiling ). A mashed up freshly boiled hard boiled egg can be quite effective in this process when your item is placed in a bag or other sealed container. Lightly abrading the surface will help the process. Plenty of videos and web pages describing this jewellery technique are easily found using Google. And, if you want something more effective than boiled eggs and fancy adding such patina to a lot of copper, brass, bronze ( etc ), you can get liver of sulphur from many sources like your favourite jewellers supply and even eBay and Amazon.
I have never tried this technique with aluminum but have done so with copper and brass; worked well on photo etch parts. I will have to give aluminum a try, might even work on metal track links like those from Friulmodel or Master Club.
cheers, Graham
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46 minutes ago, Ngantek said:
and avoid the temptation to go over areas multiple times.
that is my biggest problem with brush painting but I am getting better at resisting.
cheers, Graham
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Yes, use the Tamiya X-20A thinner; not only will it thin the paint BUT it also contains a bit of retarder which will also be of benefit when brush painting. You can also add a bit more retarder as needed. Tamiya also sells their Acrylic retarder ( product no. 87114 ).
I would stay away from retarders and flow improvers intended for water based acrylics ( i.e Vallejo, AK, Liquitex, Golden ). Tamiya acrylics are not water based acrylics and it is best to stick with the Tamiya thinner and retarder.
I suspect that much of the frustration many have had with brush painting Tamiya acrylics is a result of not using Tamiya's X-20A thinner and retarder instead using whatever witch's brew of water/alcohol/Windex/windshield washer fluid/etc ... they read about, heard about, saw on youtube, (etc). Save the witch's brews for cleanup; stick with the manufacturers own products and you can't go far wrong.
cheers, Graham
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It is not really two part paint. The add on poly just improves flow from your airbrush and makes a bit more durable coating.
I and others suspect that mission models paint is made by Createx for MMP. At one time there was a link on the MMP web site that took you to the Createx website but it is no longer there.
Createx is well regarded airbrush paint. I had no problem airbrushing the MMP product and it did dry or cure as expected but any application of water or decal setting solution and it would lift right off. I suspect that what was needed was a good and proper matt/semi-gloss/gloss clear coating before attempting to apply decals but I never got that far.
cheers, Graham
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Very interesting.
I had the same experience with this paint, even water would soften and remove the "cured" paint and I followed their instructions, used their reducer, and their poly.
My emails to the company went unanswered.
Whether I had some bad paints, maybe were subject to freezing before I got them or ... I just gave up after much testing, binned the lot, and never looked back.
I know there are others who speak highly of this line of paints so they must have come to terms on how to use them.
cheers, Graham
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6 minutes ago, Mike said:
Oh, grow up. You're the only one finding this offensive, and yet you're still right?
Praise in public, criticize in private.
I have found this topic to be humorous but is fast becoming humorless. I leave you with one of my favourite quotes regarding the English language:
Quote“The problem with defending the purity of the English language is that English is about as pure as a
cribhouse whore. We don't just borrow words; on occasion, English has pursued other languages down
alleyways to beat them unconscious and rifle their pockets for new vocabulary.”― James D. Nicoll
with all due respect,
cheers, Graham
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1 hour ago, Model Mate said:
so floppy old stringy stuff should work at least as well as stiff wire.
Indeed. I have seen some marvelous model "wire" wheels strung using silk thread for the spokes and that floppy stringy stuff is certainly easier to work with.
cheers, Graham
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Thoughtful lad.
Some of my most pleasurable builds have been taking some old rough and ready kit and making a silk purse out of a sow's ear - or at least trying too. May not end up with something that is accurate or outstanding but it's the challenge you see. It is hard to stop once you start down that path always wanting to add just one more little bit of detail.
I always like to watch as someone builds a nice set of wire wheels in any scale and you certainly have made a good start down that path. Speaking of wire wheels - did you happen to see @Putty Animal wire wheels for one of his 1/144 scale creations? Lots of food for thought.
You Alfa Romeo will turn very nicely indeed judging by your military vehicle scratch ( and kit ) builds.
cheers, Graham
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32 minutes ago, ckw said:
That reminds me of my current pet peeve - the use of 'super' ("I'm super excited ...") with everything. And due to over use, we now hear "Super super ..." since the emphasis provided by just one 'super' has been diminished.
Epic, narely fer sure dude. Stay woke. 🤪
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53 minutes ago, Bertie McBoatface said:
my modelmaking activities are going to be shelved for several months
Looking after yourself and your needs is priority number one.
We will be waiting when your journey brings you back this way.
cheers, Graham
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Very cool. Very creative and well done.
Looks like something straight out Cartoons comic/magazine.
( for those that might not know the reference: https://archive.org/details/car-toonmagazine )
cheers, Graham
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7 hours ago, Bertie McBoatface said:
I do still feel uncomfortable when people lionise me as the 'expert wooden ship modeller' but maybe it's not my fault that folks over-praise.
The sign of someone truly humble; and no, it's not your fault. The ignorant will always follow whomever they feel is more knowledgeable than themselves; we all do to some degree or another.
And, further to "The Rant" and long before Charles Drake and his boomerang, there was and still is an old Chinese Proverb (Confucius maybe?) - “I hear I forget, I see I remember, I do I understand.”
No substitute for practice, practice, and more practice.
Expert or not, you do weave delightful tales and always enjoyable tutorials with a good balance between images and text, always willing to admit mistakes and share your successes. I have learnt quite a lot just following along.
cheers, Graham
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3 hours ago, Bertie McBoatface said:
The Rant
No truer prose have ever been writ.
I do like the stand you are planning for l'orenoque. With or without the 'toes' and 'instep' ? I couldn't say from the pictures as I can't see the big picture. Perhaps you will need to live with and let the idea simmer for a while before deciding. Either way it is a very creative idea.
cheers, Graham
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Very nicely done.
cheers, Graham
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An interesting product.
I have no first hand experience with this product ( I like in Canada and have never seen this product before ).
I did a bit of searching and found the Bartoline web site and their Clean Spirit safety data sheet and list of ingredients.
safety data sheet: https://www.bartoline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Bartoline-Improved-Clean-Spirit-SDS-GB.pdf
list of ingredients: https://www.bartoline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Bartoline-Improved-Clean-Spirit-List-of-Ingredients-GB.pdf
I am not surprised the results of your testing after seeing the list of ingredients. Not surprised the way it reacted with enamels and lacquer. Acrylics can be quite forgiving however.
I would not recommend Bartoline Clean Spirit as a thinner or reducer for water based acrylic paints however as they tend to not always react well to the alcohols.
Also of note is that this product also contains sodium hydroxide ( i.e. lye or caustic soda ). A common ingredient in household and industrial cleaners but not something to be used in paint thinners or reducers.
Perhaps a good product for brush cleaning, and general cleanup but not something for thinning or reducing paints.
cheers, Graham
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For any water based acrylic paint you could try what is called airbrush medium.
Liquitex and Golden have this product. It is not just a thinner or reducer but also contains acrylic polymer ( that stuff which makes acrylic paint acrylic paint ). It is milky white in appearance
https://www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/airbrush-medium/
These products seem to also improve flow and slow down drying a bit ( i.,e. retarder ).
They are all I use now for reducing water based acrylics - craft store acrylics ( i.e. Decoart, Apple barrel, etc ) all airbrush very nicely when thinned with one of these.
Do note: water based acrylics only. Does not work with Tamiya Acrylics or similar acrylic lacquers.
cheers, Graham
ninja hypercut saw
in Other Tools
Posted
Bill has a very interesting selection of kits. He frequently buys collections which supplements the latest and greatest from his suppliers. I never know what I will find whenever I get the chance to visit his store.
cheers, Graham