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ColonelKrypton

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  1. Yes but you know it's there. That is why we sometimes spend so much time doing such things Moving along nicely and looking good. cheers, Graham
  2. One of my early attempts at planking looked a lot like what you show in that picture - uneven gaps and filler bits sticking out here and there. Several rounds of careful sanding filling and the end result was good. I did improve in later attempts but never became a master planker. Last thing you want to do is sand you bottom during hot weather - those wee tiny grains of sand get in every nook and cranny Out of curiosity I checked the weather for southern UK - it has been on the hot side, a lot like our weather - usually in July we will get three weeks or so 30C weather, hot and humid but not Southern US Gulf of Mexico Louisiana hot. The Dog Days of summer. I did some more looking for shellac. I did find one place which had one litre size can but at $40 ( about 26 UK pounds ) that just seemed a bit too much. I do find more reasonably priced synthetic shellac what that it is. This synthetic shellac always seemed to be tinted in some light colour, usually white and is advertised as water washup. What kind of shellac is that? Your comment on Plastic Wood being cellulose based caught my eye. I can't even find good old PLastic Wood - everything here it seems has become water based or latex based and just isn't the same thing not does it work the same. Stay cool, HMS Beagle will wait. cheers, Graham
  3. Contrary to colour's name of Khaki Green G3 which may lead to thinking it is more of a green, it is more of a brown. https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/british-army in the first couple of couple or rows you will find ColourCoats Deep Bronze Green BS381C 224, Deep Bronze Green BS381C 223, and Khaki Green 3. I trust @Mike Starmer colour details and mix recipes as I do @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies colours hence my selection of Mike's Tamiya mix as my reference for Khaki Green G3. Do you have Mike Starmer's British Vehicle Camoflauge 1939-1945 ? If not you can find it here: https://www.mafva.org/british-vehicle-camouflage-1939-45/?v=79cba1185463 There are so many variations of colours and when used that I have a hard time keeping track of all the nuances of the subject cheers, Graham
  4. Time to post some photos of my initial results. This first image is a comparison of @Mike Starmer Tamiya mix for Khaki Green G3 compared to Vallejo 71.330, Ak Interactive RC033, and Mike Starmer's Humbrol mix I have been using Canson's XL 300gsm water colour paper for my test swatches. The paper has a bit of an off white bias and and was placed on bright white card stock. The photo was taken just after noon local time in the shade. Of, keep in mind all of usual caveats with viewing and comparing colours online on uncalibrated monitors. next up is a comparison of just Mike Starmer's Tamiya vs Humbrol mix: To my eye the Humbrol mix is a bit more green than the Tamiya mix. This next one is a comparison of one of my iterations in an attempt to match Mike's Tamiya mix using Golden Fluid acrylics In this iteration I attempted to use ColourCoats online colour swatch of Khaki Green 3 and match online to various mixes using Golden's online mixer tool. To my eye this looks pretty close but perhaps still a bit on the brown side. No one said this would be easy The Golden online mixer tool provides both RGB and CMYK values under the numeric tab and I have started to keep track of these values. Unfortunately trying to match colour chips in one system ( i.e. RGB or CMYK) to others ( i.e. Munsell ) is not always easy. There are online tools which are handy but I am still trying to sort out those that I can trust and those which may be iffy. This next iteration is another attempt to match Mike's Tamiya mix using Golden Fluid acrylics. Also pretty close but to my eye still a bit too brown and not as close as the first one, looks kind of like a dark pig swill ( that is a reference to some discussions on Service Brown colour ). This was an attempt at simplifying the number of colours in the mix. And lastly which was an attempt to get something close using DecoArt Crafters craft store acrylic paints - the paint swatch in the lower right corner of the image. Surprisingly this one, to my eye at least, is very close. This was a mix of Deco Art Crafters acrylics Burnt Umber (1.0gram) DecoArt Crafters Sun Yellow ( 0.3gram ), and DecoArt Crafters Hunter Green ( 0.3grams) These are only three of my many iterations at finding a match. To my eye, I would use my first mix of Golden Fluid acrylics as a darker version of Khaki Green G3 and the DecoArt Crafters mix as a bit lighter version. Keep in mind that after a bit or a lot of weathering, dry brushing, post shading ( or whatever other technique you might apply ) the resulting end colour will be biased away from the base. What do you think? The adventure continues ... cheers, Graham
  5. I had not stumbled across those books before; I guess I was just not looking in the right place or asking the right question. I had a look on Amazon for the book and had a look around for some reviews (etc). Looks like it might be useful so I ordered a copy, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Yes indeed, Jamie @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies is a wealth of information. I have lost track of the number of times I have dug through his web site each time learning a bit more. Unfortunately there is no dealer in Canada for ColurCoats and he won't post from the UK. I will give it a try. cheers, Graham
  6. The title of this topic is in reference to basic colour theory - the three primary colours RED, YELLOW, and Blue and how they can be mixed to create whatever colour you would like. Of course, we need to also consider BLACK and WHITE as they have their place as well. There are have been many discussions over the years about colour when it comes to model building. Which colour is correct for xxx between this time and that and so. The discussions can be quite heated and opinions do change over time as new reference material becomes available and old references revisited. This topic is not about which colour, hue, shade, or tint is correct for any given subject at any given time. Rather it is an attempt at having a discussion about understanding some basic colour theory and how to make your own colours not that the intention is ever replace the wide selection of commercial hobby products to which we have become accustomed. Knowing some basic colour theory however may help the average user in being better able to use what is available off the shelf by tweaking to suit their own needs. A current project of mine will require a basic colour of Khaki Green G3. There are several off the shelf to choose from - Vallejo, AK Interactive, and Colourcoats all suitable products. It would be a simple job to just select one based on availability and preference for acrylic or enamel but that would be a simple short term solution and I never seem to choose simple solutions whenever there is the possibility to add to my knowledge and provide a longer term solution for my wants. I do not have a good physical paint chip reference for Khaki Green G3 but @Mike Starmer has published much very good information on British war time vehicle colours including many simple colour mixes. I just happened to have a few old bottles of Tamiya XF colours on hand and have mixed up his recipe which I will use as my reference - 8 part XF-62 Olive Drab 3 parts XF-62 Desert Yellow and 1 part NATO Brown. One of the interesting things about the Tamiya Acrylics is that it is possible to find their safety data sheets (SDS) online in which the pigments used and amounts are given. Interestingly, if you where study the SDS for all of Tamiya's XF range of paints - nearly 70 - there are only primarily three pigments used in addition to titanium white and carbon black. These are called Yellow13, Blue15, and Red170. A few contain Orange34 and only a couple have what is called TIN(II) phthalocyanine ( a very dark purple pigment). The numbers following the colour refer to their colour index - Yellow13 for example means that this is the 13'th entry in the Yellow colour index http://www.artiscreation.com/yellow.html#.YvKi13bMJPY It is possible using the Tamiya SDS numbers and pigment references to roll my own close matches to the Tamiya colours using Golden Fluid acrylics but it gets more complicating trying to match a mix a several Tamiya paints but that is my current goal. After several iterations I am getting closer but a "best" match so far eludes me. I will leave it at that for now but here are some links to helpful information and online tools if you would like to give this sort of thing a try: https://www.goldenpaints.com/technicalinfo/technicalinfo_mixguide some good tips and information using Golden acrylics https://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer and online tool which lets you mix and observe changes using various colours from the Golden lines. Do keep in mind the vagaries of comparing colours online on a web page using a non-colour calibrated monitor. https://munsell.com/about-munsell-color/how-color-notation-works/ were would we be without codification of colour, this one for Munsell. Pantone is another you may have heard of. https://encycolorpedia.com/search?q=khaki+drab - a colour encyclopedia, how handy but do keep in mind that bit about comparing colours online. http://www.artiscreation.com/Color_index_names.html#.YvKlPXbMJPa - online colour index again. cheers, Graham
  7. Actually, I will start another thread shortly. I don't mind PM'ing but general topics that others may have an interest in I think are best discussed in an open topic and besides the discussion may just spark some interest in others to discover more about colour theory mixing your own. cheers, Graham
  8. Perhaps just tinger frouble when posting here on Britmodeller. All is good now and access to the MAFVA web site no longer issues and error. cheers, Graham
  9. Indeed and I have said the same thing. I am going to go and play around with TinkerCAD and see where leads. cheers, Graham
  10. thank you for all that. I am going to go and spend some time reading through the https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/697-modelling-using-3d-printing/ section here on Britmodeller. I always knew it was there but sometimes a quick question in the right place and the right time gets good answers. I like your tools and jigs - seems to be a common use for 3D printers. I think my interest in 3D printers is driven more by the desire to create small detail parts - wheels, fittings, and what not rather than big pieces like the hull of your Fiat. Never say never - Ancora Imparo cheers, Graham
  11. @Casey, I have been following many of your discussions here on Britmodeller and am inspired by your techniques and knowledge. In addition to messing about with inexpensive craft type acrylics I have also been using Liquitex and Golden brands of acrylic paints. I do like the Liquitex ( not the Basics line ) soft body and acrylic inks but I think I have preference for the Golden Fluid and High Flow types. Just recently I have been trying to create a mix using Golden Fluid's to create a Khaki Green G3 for a current project. I don't have a good reference colour chip but I have been using @Mike Starmer mix based on Tamiya XF- paints as my reference. Nor do I have spectrophotometer so everything is done empirically by eye and comparing the results under various lighting conditions. It is taking numerous iterations but I am getting closer and I do consider this time well spent as I keep learning new things about colours, pigments, and light sources. @masterKamera I will echo Casey's comments - if you get some good quality artists paints you will find that you can easily mix what want. cheers, Graham
  12. What an interesting topic. I have several comments which I will post with reference to previous postings just so I can keep my thoughts from getting too cluttered. I too have been experimenting ( messing about with or playing with - call it what you will ) on and off for some time. The local dollar store ( Dollarama here in Canada ) sells a small selection of the DecoArt brand Crafters acrylic paints. DecoArt actually has several lines of craft acrylic paints Crafters being just one and Americana another. These are quite good quality acrylic paints in spite of their being made and marketed for the craft market. They are pigment rich, smooth and well blended, handle nicely, and available in a very broad range of colours. But they are not fine art quality paints in that they are all mixes of various pigments in order to create those fancy colours which they offer. What pigments do they use? Common inexpensive ones no doubt in order keep costs down. Crafters are not so much interested in how colour fast a paint is or whether it is transparent, semi transparent, semi opaque or opaque or whether something is a phthalo blue (green shade) - they are rather more taken by it being called "Copenhagen Blue". These craft acrylic paints, in their rainbow assortments of colours, are not going to have just one pigment in their make up ( with a few exceptions ) but rather will be a mix of several and that is one of the sources of frustration you may run into if you try apply the basic colour theory of mixing colours - i.e. blue and yellow make green, yellow and red make orange, etc. Already being a mix of several pigments you may find that you quickly end up with some non-descript muddy colour that you never intended. Advertised as water clean up ( they are ) but I have found better results for thinning ( or reducing if you prefer ) using Vallejo thinner or airbrush cleaner or Mission Model Products reducer; I am still not sure about using Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner as it contains alcohol. For thinning ( reducing ) these paints for airbrushing I have gotten best results using either Liquitex or Golden air brush medium. Sometimes I think "serious modelers" have a bias towards anything other than the name brand model paint lines which may in part be a result of simply not being able to see what other possibilities there may be. cheers, Graham
  13. Really starting to come together nicely. I have been doing some research on 3D printers - what a broad and confusing subject What 3D printer are you using and what software is being used to create your files for printing? You may have already mentioned in one of your posting but I can't put my finger on the answer. cheers, Graham
  14. Another interesting group build that I had not noticed. Please add me to the list. I don't know what I would build as there are so many interesting flying, floaty, and run around on the ground thingy's that it would best to wait til just before the start and then see what tickles my fancy. cheers, Graham
  15. That is an interesting comment. Through your builds I have wondered what the real dimensions of the timber would be that was used in the construction of these sailing vessels. Having no references on hand I used Google to search - got lots of hits but sorting through all that chaff to find the nuggets took some doing. Simple answer to my query as you already know was that the dimensions varied greatly stem to stern, keel to gunwales. I think would be nearly impossible to duplicate such variation in the build of these miniature vessels although I am sure many of the more advanced builders likely do, to a point. In my searches I stumbled across a hitherto unknown web site and Nautical Research Society. It's publications ( The Northern Mariner and Argonauta ) or at least large parts of them are freely available https://www.cnrs-scrn.org/admin/index_e.html A few articles that you may find interesting ( I did ), https://www.cnrs-scrn.org/northern_mariner/vol03/tnm_3_1_1-43.pdf THE STRUCTURES OF ENGLISH WOODEN SHIPS: WILLIAM SUTHERLAND'S SHIP, CIRCA 1710 https://www.cnrs-scrn.org/northern_mariner/vol03/tnm_3_4_37-47.pdf THE 1834 CRUISE OF HMS ALLIGATOR: THE BIBLE AND THE FLAG https://www.cnrs-scrn.org/northern_mariner/vol13/tnm_13_4_29-39.pdf The Capability of Sailing Warships Part 1: Windward Performance Not that you don't already have enough reading material already Fascinating subject. I don't think I will build a model of one of these sailing vessels but your builds and Jon's ( @Faraway ) and others has rekindled an interest in nautical subjects - never say never. cheers, Graham
  16. The never ending story - the more I look, the more I see, the more I want to add. It just never ends until you decide that you just have to move on ... cheers, Graham
  17. It is a bit but mostly just different. When I use the Tichy Train rivets I do just as you. In either case you need to drill a hole or make a shallow hole and then put the rivet in place and glue. Perhaps I should look at ordering direct from Tichy again. Incidentally, if you do look at the nail caviar option, they are often advertised as being acrylic nail caviar - the nail caviar or wee tiny balls themselves are not acrylic they are glass; they are being advertised for use on acrylic nails. cheers, Graham
  18. Really starting to look like it should. Do you drill a hole for each Tichy Train rivet or do you slice the head off and glue in place? If you wanted to give the nail caviar a try I would suggest that you get a small round burr of about 0.6mm or 0.7mm to make a half hole and use a very tiny applicator to but a wee tiny bit of medium viscosity CA in the depression before dropping the nail caviar in place. Any excess can be cleaned up with a cotton bud and a bit of CA debonder. I use a lot of the Tichy Train rivets but my supply is not endless. There is a local store which caters to the train crowd but they don't always have stock and I usually buy all that they have hence my interest in the nail caviar. Ordering from the US is costly - not so much the rivets but the shipping is. cheers, Graham
  19. Perhaps a small plane or a good small square sanding block and by small I don't mean tiny - I have selection handy that at made form 1"x2" lumber, most about 4" long and couple about 6". Might be a better choice than a file. One of the reasons I don't often often use sanding drums in a rotary tool is just as you state - they can take too much off in all the wrong places in the blink of an eye and make mistakes faster than I can say "Oh crap!" Your practice test piece for making stealers does look really nice. cheers, Graham
  20. MAVFA web site seems to be back to normal this morning. cheers, Graham
  21. I was trying to access the MAVFA website this morning but keep getting an error: I see they have a Facebook page/group. Have they abandoned non-Facebook users altogether or is the web site just suffering some sort of problem? cheers, Graham
  22. @Das Abteilung - all very good points, I hadn't considered that the lower bits might have been already painted prior to assembly to the hull but that certainly does make sense. Brushed or sprayed I don't know. I would guess that by the 1940's almost all such industrial painting would have been sprayed as being the easiest and quickest way. Interestingly there is much historical data and statistics that can be found of the war time years but details of the mundane day to day work are not so easy to uncover. I think I have now been convinced that the RAM at this stage of assembly would have been painted and given the date khaki green no.3 as you had previously noted. Here is another interesting photo of the war time Montreal Locomotive works RAM assembly line Mk.II's this time and quite clearly not in red primer. Of interest is the scuffing and rubbing patterns on the painted surfaces which I will have to keep in mind. Cheers, Graham
  23. We all get "down in the dumps" from time to time. I too find a bit of tidying up and making the bed when I get up helpful as does getting out first thing early in the morning for a cup of something hot at the local Timmie's ( Tim Horton's coffee shop here in Canada ). I think that all helps provide a bit of a sense of accomplishment however small that seem. Working on a computer doesn't seem to provide that same sense of accomplishment as there is little if anything physical to show for it. However, frequent posting on Britmodeller or similar online forum does provide some of that sense of accomplishment as there is something sort of physical to show for your effort and of course the pleasure in being able to share and exchange banter with like minded mates. Now it's time to get out to Timmie's for a cup of something hot and do a bit of bird watching and listening as they are singing up a storm this morning and if I am lucky perhaps see the rabbit and her young one which has been hanging around of late. No apologies necessary. cheers, Graham
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