Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    DJing, writing books, travel, food, ships, diving.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

BringUpThePIAT's Achievements


Newbie (1/9)



  1. Super work, mate. Keep the updates coming.
  2. Do keep us posted on how it goes - i have this in my stash so will watch with interest.
  3. Seems a shame to paint it. I'd leave it as it is on the shelf to highlight your stunning work.
  4. Yah - give it a satin coat before you do the oil dots otherwise the enamel thinner you use on them will ruin the coat below. Re modulation, (and in this i mean post-shading modulation not pre) the best way to approach it (i find) is go dark to light. Looking at your pics above you've already done this but for the benefit of any noobs reading this, this is how i do my modulation. So you spray your base coat, let it dry. Important to do that as layers on top of wet-ish paint can crack. When your base coat is down and dry, take the same colour and add a drop of Iraqi Sand if you're using Vallejo or Buff / Deck Tan if you're using Tamiya. Turn your pressure down to 10-12 but don't over-thin it as it doesn't go down well if too wet. Then get in close to your flat surfaces and really gently spray the flat areas and exposed edges lightly with the lighter shade. Rinse repeat getting lighter and lighter until you're happy. Trick is to stop right at the point where you start to wonder if its too much, not after. I find when fully assembled and with weathering and washes, filters added, etc the modulation is always slightly too subtle even if it looks too much when you're doing it. Ive seen some guys do the lightest shade through a mottle template on the flat areas to simulate sun bleaching but thats mainly on aircraft and I'd struggle to imagine using that on 1/35 tanks but i'm sure some do.
  5. Thanks a lot mate, appreciated. I think in this day and age you could make an argument that no armour is survivable, and the same Kornet/Konkurs/Chinese copy that will do for a Boxer or Ajax will also likely do for a C2 or C3. Armour can only get you so far. After that its all about APS, mobility, stealth and targeted lethality. A real step change in how armoured warfare is conducted.
  6. I thought that as well. Although those huge Union Jacks on the turret bustle look like fun decals. Not. hahaha
  7. I like the C3 upgrades. I think once you wade through the hysteria and see it for what it is, I actually think it has covered the bases quite nicely. What we were after was just enough to keep C2 capable (so the new L55 smoothbore, better thermal sights, much better battle-management system and a few other bits to help survivability, datalinking, new suspension and the new powertrain/powerpack etc) for the time it will take for us to work with <insert partner state here> on a new generation, optionally-manned MBT platform. We’re probably fifteen years away from something like that being cleared to transition into, and C2 wasn’t going to be able to last that long in her current form. The upgrades are merely to buy time whilst retaining skills and training. 148 isn’t enough for a Cold War style tank-centric conflict but then we don’t fight like that any more and neither will C3. The upgrades are to keep the deterrence and to keep the skills and training current, as well as introducing the Regiment-level command to working with current spec battle-management hardware, all the new toys etc and of course, the logistics support for working with common NATO ammunition. I think a lot of the reason for such a small number of them is that a lot of the jobs where we used to use MBTs for, jobs that required an MBT, we no longer have to use MBTs for. Their actual utility these days is far narrower than it was. For those jobs where we really do need an MBT, C2 is, sadly, so far behind in some important ways, that even if it could soldier on for another fifteen years, dropping the notional new optionally manned MBT drone/hybrid platform into service to replace it would be challenging. Like going from Lancaster to Vulcan, if that comparison makes sense, Upgrading C2 to C3 standard makes that transition a lot easier. I see it as a tracked training course for what is coming next. We may well see Trophy or similar tacked on later to get the British Army up to speed on fighting with APS systems in time for the C3’s replacement. I do wonder if the improved powertrain was in part down to a requirement for more electrical power than C2 could currently provide, to enable something like Trophy or whatever to be fitted. Between that and the raft of new computers, systems and what have you, the C3 will be needing a lot more electrical juice than C2 uses. The C3 regiments will no doubt get some showy deployments to the Baltic and elsewhere and once upgraded, will present a credible deterrence. Bear in mind for all the scaremongering, Russia hasn’t deployed the T14 in any numbers and is unlikely to do so in the next couple of years. A C3 would retain a meaningful fighting edge against the T-72BM3, T-80U and T-90 variants that Russia’s fighting power actually relies on. C3 would retain an enormous fighting edge against anything Iran, Syria or any of the sub-Saharan African nations like Mali or Sierra Leone etc have where we could ever envisage sending heavy armour for any reason. C3 would also (tank for tank, we'll discount the numerical imbalance) handily beat anything the Chinese have, save for perhaps latest version of the Type 99. The Armata bogeyman is just that. For now. As others have said upthread, it would be good to see some of the mothballed C2s upgraded as well but in this fiscal climate that is simply not going to happen.
  8. Hi mate, If youre getting back into the hobby after a few years out (I did recently) then Tamiya is a good shout as a starting point for airbrush colours. They airbrush nicely and with minimum fuss. I use them for base coats as i still think they are pretty accurate if you have the ubiquitous Ivory/Buff/NATO black/yellow to add as required. I am not a huge fan of airbrushing Vallejo, and find their Model Air range more hassle than they are worth. Lots say they can be airbrushed from bottle to pot without thinning but that simply isnt the case in my experience and thinning them is finicky as you have to sue Vallejo thinner and different colours require different amounts to thin them, it isnt uniform. You can get much better results thinning a little and using a little retarder as well but as i say, if youre just coming back and wanting to build confidence and skills back up, i'd avoid them for now. For brush work, Vallejo Model Colour, Mig Ammo acrylics and Lifecolour all day - all of which you only need water to work with and don't need to thin with thinner. Occasionally white spirit-thinned Humbrol acrylics for some metal work, gun metal finishes etc but rarely. Tamiya doesnt brush nicely as others have said and colour accuracy is much more important for things you brush - figures - so better to go for the more accurate colours. As an aside - primers. I LOVE Vallejo rattle can primers. I know lots hate them and i understand why as they are a bit unsubtle and hardcore but they level out so nicely and the finish is wonderful, every time. I love them. For armour models you cant beat them in my opinion. What i find is that matching the primer coat to the base coat a bit lets you go thinner and lighter for the base coat than you normally would on a black, grey or white surface and can produce some nice modulation effects. EG Russian Green Vallejo primer, then you base coat a Russian Green over it a shade lighter but thinner. It works very nicely. Hope this helps.
  9. Sorry to dredge this back up chaps but i started mine last night and wanted to know people's thoughts on replacing the plastic rotation threads for the rocket tubes with copper wire. I've looked at them in the box and Shermaniac is spot on right, it has a load of sprue attachment points and will be a cast iron bee hatch to clean up. It is an older kit and I'm worried i may snap them if they have become a bit brittle. The Trumpeter thick plastic i find isn't very bendable at the best of times. I am thinking some stiff copper wire might be a better option, what do you guys think?
  10. Top stuff thanks mate, owe you a beer
  11. Gday mate, Ive got the new Meng Merk 4LIC with the mine roller. Got it for EUR42.95 so excellent value i reckon. RE the APS, Trophy is "hard kill" but Droid is soft kill; it is a form of powerful laser blinder to confuse seeker heads on ATGMs. There is very little online about the droid system.
  12. Has it ever been done? Trophy and Droid/Windbreaker on the same vehicle? would have to be something huge like an MBT, right?
  13. Afternoon all. Couple of questions. Does the Merk 4LIC equipped with the Droid APS, ever have Trophy fitted as well? I mean, are the two systems used at the same time or is it an either/or thing? And two, would the metal barrels available on Ebay for the Academy kit fit the Meng? I'm really not keen on a two piece plastic effort for this. Lastly, are the aftermarket chain/ball fittings worth it over the plastic ones in the box? Cheers guys, CM
  14. I'll post on here when i have started on it. Its going to be a huge challenge.
  • Create New...