pat d

Thank you. Some scratchbuilding, some Eduard and some original Monogram.

Thank you Dave, I-just ordered it, looks just to be what I was looking for. As someone said "50 shades of gray for the SHAR"

Is there a website / publication for sale / download dealing with the camouflage used by the SEA Harriers FRS1 in the Falkland War? I recently read "Harrier 809" and have become interested in learning some more about how the colors evolved. I bought the Warpaint book on the A/C but despite the title there is very little written about the colors used and it left some question in my mind about the actual nomenclature on the colors. Also, I have been told that the SAM Molders Datafile color information has been superseded by new information. TIA, Pat D

The model was pained overall in RLM 76. Then a coat of RLM 75 was applied to the uppersurfaces and down the sides. This was done using a Paasche VL with enamels thinned 1 part paint to ! part thinner. I then used a slightly different colored RLM 76 with a Paasche V Jr. and with the paint thinned 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint I applied a "fishnet" pattern outlining the mottles just like the Luftwaffe groundcrew did. Hope this makes sense! Pat D

Imagine some poor Nachtjager pilot returning to base at night with a prop feathered due to an engine malfunction, throw in some bad weather-what could possibly go wrong? I thought I would name this 'Single engine Night Landing" The model is done in the reverse mottle scheme of a RLM 75 gray base color with RLM 76 light blue being applied over the gray outlining each individual mottle. 1/48 Tamiya kit, Cheers!

A nice shot of a PRXI

Couple of things. if the colour is a dark green like RAF dark green a Ivory Black wash works well as it is not a dead dark black but has a tinge of umber in it( I use oils) Note this photo was taken with a flash... If the green is a bit lighter or warmer a (Payne's Gray) works well for me I think to overwhelm the look of the model with too dark or clashing panel colors defeats the purpose of panel lines IMO subtle is better.

Basically I used very warm water and "squeegeed" down the decal with a moist cotton bud then used Solvaset and repeated the process until the decal conformed. I experienced no silvering problems at all. I did remove the clear film from the large DW-K codes. The paint was Colorcoats dk. earth base with with the camouflage pattern lightly penciled in then I applied Xtracolor dk. green

Got the gloss coat and decals on. upper surface wash is done, the undersurface wash is still curing-hence no photos of that area. BTW the Tamiya kit decals preformed flawlessly "0" problems.

Good Form indeed. Well done in all aspects.

Wow! Thanks for this, this is a goldmine. Lots of good points and photos, and to be honest having Edgar Brooks take on something goes a long way in my opinion. Again my appreciation for sending this my way. Pat

What colour were the fuel caps forward of the windscreen painted? I have been looking at photos and the wartime machines of this period and it seems to be the colour of the surrounding camouflage. Quill in P9450 seems to match the camouflage. Restored warbirds / museum A/C go from natural metal to gray-green to camouflage. Any more definite ideas out there? Thanks (again) Pat D.

Thank you both, I really appreciate your help in this! Best, Pat

Done up in the iconic markings, An excellent kit in all aspects. Tamiya decals worked flawlessly. Colorcoats dk. earth with Xtracolor dk. green applied freehand with a Paasche V Jr. Undersurfaces done in RAF lt. blue over the white/black/ aluminum scheme with the black underwing showing a patchy coverage of the re-spray, a sign of the hurried, turbulent times.