Jump to content

don f

Members
  • Posts

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by don f

  1. 6 hours ago, fishplanebeer said:

    Sorry, just to add that one of my biggest snagging issues is removing errant dust and small hair particles which seem to be attracted after each spraying session so do you have any tips on how to avoid this please as your finish is quite superb and completely bug free. Or like me do you spend considerable time removing such things afterwards with very fine sanding sheets as has been my only option and which has added to my multiple delays so far?

     

    Kind Regards

    Colin.

    Hi Colin,

     

    Thank you for the kind words.  I did not have a problem with the fit of the cowling and lower fuselage.  If you use the kit engine, the alignment of the engine in reference to the interior slots in the engine cowling can cause a poor fit if you are not careful.  The fit of the nose cowl to the engine cowling was very good.  Overall, the fit of kit parts was excellent.

     

    About painting,  I paint in the garage to keep paint fumes out the house.  It is a dusty environment.  I no longer have a paint booth set up in the house.  For me, the main contributors to particles in the paint finish are electrostatic attraction and stray fibers from the immediate work space.  I use a damp cloth to wipe down the table top and surrounding areas prior to painting.  I do not use facial tissues, or similar paper products, to clean paint sticks, brushes, airbrush parts, etc. above the work surface that I rest the model on.  The fibers from these paper products seem to magically find their way onto the wet paint.  Even with my best efforts to avoid embedded particles, these do find their way into the paint finish.   Like you, I do spend time using a scalpel to pick or scrap the unwanted off the surface and various fine sandpapers to restore the surface.  I accept this rework as part of the experience.  And the Hellcat model photographs do not show all the warts.  I had the luxury of showing the good sides.  The model is no contest winner.

     

    Don

    • Thanks 1
  2. 13 hours ago, François Escudé said:

    Hi Don , very nice done !! You even did cowl correction ! beyond my skills !, 

     

    great job ! 

    congrats !!

    Hi Francois,

     

    Thank you for the compliment. Part of the delay in finishing this project was the removal of the modified cowling.  I did not like the look of the modified cowling because it offered no significant improvement over the stock kit part. So, I cut off the modified part and replaced it with the stock part so I could finish this project.  Soon as figure out what needs to be done to the nose cowling, I'll make the changes and use it for my next Hellcat, an F6F-3N.

     

    Don

  3. An update showing a big mistake that I made.  Hot pink nail polish was readily available for use on the figure. So, I gave it a try. The nail polished thinned with lacquer thinner and MIBK sprayed ok.  Unfortunately, the nail polish had poor adhesion and low hiding power. Rework to remove the polish was started.

     

    Hot-pink-nail-polish-mistake.jpg

     

    At least I finished the base and board.

     

    Hot-pink-nail-polish-board-base.jpg

     

    Reprimed. After the primer cures for a few days. The more rework will start.

     

    Don

     

    Hot-pink-reprime.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  4. Finished with this project!  I did not use the Technics R-2800. I'll reserve this for another project. The modified engine cowling was removed and replaced with a stock kit part. The modified part offered no significant improvement over the kit part. I plan to cut the modified apart and change the shape of the grin.

     

    Aftermarket and replacement parts:

     

    - Prop from  a Tamiya F4U-1 kit.

     

    - Barracudacast resin wheels with diamond tread tires.

     

    - Fundekals decals.

     

    Many lessons learned.  I'll post more pictures in Ready for Inspection.

     

    Eduard-72-Hellcat-Done.jpg

     

     

    • Like 3
  5. The base, board and figure were sanded.  A small piece of Apoxie Sculpt was rolled out into a thin sheet.  This sheet was applied over the bikini top to form the upper part of the rash guard.

     

    Rash-Guard-Bikini-Top-Covered.jpg

     

    The fit of the surf board in the base was not good.  To fix this, Bare Metal Foil was applied to the bottom of the surf board.  The figure and board were mounted temporarily to the base.  A mix of CA and free flow dental repair resin was applied around the opening.

     

    Base-Board-Fill-1.jpg

     

    Base-Board-Fill-2.jpg

     

    After curing, the board was removed, the foil acting as a release agent, and the area sanded.  Now, the opening exactly matches the board profile.  Quick and easy.

     

    Base-Board-Fit-Sanded.jpg

     

    Base-Board-Fit.jpg

     

    The figure and and base  were primed.

     

    Sanded-and-Rash-Guard-Primed.jpg

     

    The primer coat revealed a number of areas that required more attention.  These were filled and sanded.  Additional Apoxie Sculpt was used to add details to the hair and to install the right arm.  The dark lines are gloss paint stripes applied to help visualize the layout and color separations of the white and black rash guard.  The slightly raised lines of cured paint also provide faint ridges that will represent the seams of the garment.

     

    Shaka-Installed-Filled-Sanded-Front.jpg

     

    Shaka-Installed-FIlled-and-Sanded-Back.j

     

    The final primer coat.  After this cures for a few days, let the painting begin.

     

    Final-primer-coat-1.jpg

     

     

     

     

    • Like 4
  6. On 5/26/2022 at 5:09 AM, PattheCat said:

    Looking good. It's a very good and simple little kit, isn't it? Your tweaking of the cowling makes it look even better.

     

    Alas mine (F6-F3 three tone camo) ended on the shelf of doom as the Gunze insignia white paint on the underside never cured.

    BTW I also got a gap around the top of the rear cockpit bulkhead.

     

    Cheers.

    Pat.

     

    Hi Pat,

     

    Thank you.  This was my first Eduard kit.  Many lessons were learned.  My next Eduard Hellcat will not built in the way that I built this one.  And I feel your frustration with paints that will not cure.  I've stripped a couple back to bare plastic and started over on a couple of models.

     

    Don

    • Like 1
  7. I'm ashamed that my work on this Hellcat ceased in October of 2021.  This project should be included in my list of abandoned projects.  I have resolved to complete this project.  Here's the process thus far.

     

    Eduard produced a very nice kit of the Hellcat.  Curiously, the centerline fuel tank lacked the detail found in the other parts of the kit.  The flange joining the tank halves is missing along with the filler cap and access panels.  This was easy to remedy by using stretched sprue to make the flange.  The filler cap and access panels were scribed.

     

    Centerline-tank-details-added.jpg

     

    Here's the finished item.

     

    Centerline-tank-above.jpg

     

    Centerline-tank-profile.jpg

     

    After finishing the tank, I realized that I should have removed the molded on straps and replaced them with strips of aluminum to better match the PE strap section connecting to the fuselage.  I'll leave it as is.

     

    The painted and gloss coated model.  My usual GSB paint mix was dry in the bottle.  So, I used GSB from a bottle of Floquil Maritime pre-mix.  This paint turned out to be very dark and glossy.  This was lightened by shading with Floquil Flat GSB  from a my Floquil Military paints.  The white geometric markings were masked and painted.  Here is the model with top coat and gloss coat applied.

     

    Painted-and-Gloss-left.jpg

     

    Painted-and-gloss-applied-right.jpg

     

    After curing, the Fundekals decals were applied.  These decals were a pleasure to use.

     

    Decals-Applied-Gloss-Coated.jpg

     

    Decals-Applied.jpg

     

    The prop and Barracuda resin wheels are finished and ready.  I applied the final semi-gloss top coat today.  Soon as this varnish cures, the exhaust stains will be applied and final finishing steps completed.  I'll post the images of the finished model in the Ready for Inspection page.

     

    Don

     

     

     

    • Like 4
  8. Finally, I've had the time and motivation to get back to model building. Whilst waiting for paint to cure on a couple of projects, I decided to dig out my Hawk Classics Beach Bunny. Another fun build as a companion to my previous Silly Surfer.

     

    Quote

     

     

    20220515-220810.jpg

     

    Keeping with the surfer theme, the Beach Bunny is being built as less Beach Bunny and more a Surfer Girl. I had originally considered modifying the head by removing the hair and sculpting a wind blown hairdo. Too avoid all the required work, I settled for repositioning the right arm and abandoning all the kit extras. Here's the preliminary pose. The right hand has been cut apart and made into a shaka.  The right arm was lengthened a little.

     

    20220517-120826.jpg

     

    More to follow as the model progresses.

     

    Don

     

    P. S. - Here's the inspiration.

     

    20220515-154213.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 3
  9. 51 minutes ago, fishplanebeer said:

    What was the colour of the forward dorsal ID light please as my model is an F6F-3 so would have had it in place? Photos suggest white but is this correct?

     

    Regards

    Colin.

    Hi Colin,

     

    Yes. A white light. I presumed that you were going use PVA or equivalent to make the light.

     

    Don

     

    Vraciu-June-19-1944-downed-six.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  10. Hi Colin,

     

    Here's the US WWII identification lights. Note the yellow light has an amber lens. The green light has a lens that appears blue. The lights were installed flush with the aircraft skin.

     

    Grimes-IFF-Lights-WWII.jpg

     

    The forward dorsal ID light was deleted early on in F6F-5 production, BuNo 70289 and subs. The other dorsal light was a blue formation light. Here's a good example of the dorsal light.

     

    Don

     

    f6f-5-rework03.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  11. I was unable to complete my Hellcat in time.  After a long delay, I've started working on the project again.  I do not want this kit to end up as another abandoned project.

     

    The model was sanded to remove putty and primed again.  Very little additional putty was needed.  The model will be built without HVAR's.  The kit provides HVAR's with chunky, rectangular launchers.  The wing has corresponding large rectangular openings to accept the rocket launchers.  The rocket launchers were thin.  Thin rectangular pieces about half the width of the existing openings were inserted and glued into each opening.

     

    Rocket-launcher-holes-prepped.jpg

     

    New rocket launchers were made from strips of 0.015" plastic.  The individual posts were glued in placed and sanded to the correct length.

     

    Rocket-launchers-installed.jpg

     

    Much better.  With all the PE parts in the kit, I wish that Eduard had provided the launchers in brass or stainless with some detail etched in.

     

    After the windscreen was installed, the Eduard kit masks were applied.  I've never used Eduard masks and hope that they work well.  The MLG, tail wheel, small gear doors were glued in place and a first coat of blue has been applied.

     

    PA110399.jpg

     

    The plan is to mask and apply the white markings this weekend.  I'll continue to post updates here until the model is ready for inspection.

     

    Don

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 5
  12. Major components are assembled.  Primer applied.  Getting close to painting the top coat.

     

    20210918-163139.jpg

     

    Exhaust pipes drilled out.

     

    20210918-163743.jpg

     

    20210918-164015.jpg

     

    After assembling the fuselage, the rear cockpit bulkhead had a gap all around the top.  I'm not sure if this gap resulted from me failing to dry fit or if that's the way the kit goes together.

     

    20210918-170915.jpg

     

    A silver of plastic sheet was cut and shaved to fit the gap.  The strip was glued into the gap.

     

    20210918-173010.jpg

     

    After the glue cured, the excess plastic was scraped off and the paint touched up.  Not perfect, but better.

     

    20210918-200333.jpg

     

    Hopefully, there will not be many rounds of filling, sanding, priming and repeat.  The kit went together very nicely with a minimum of adjustments and tinkering.

     

    Don

     

     

    • Like 6
  13. On 9/15/2021 at 8:08 AM, 81-er said:

    I have to confess I struggled with the PE belts on mine as well. Mostly that I couldn't get the lap straps to adhere to the red rectangles at all, I just ended up with a mess. I cut my losses at that point and went with the decals. Not as nice overall, but much better for my sanity & temper

     

    James

     

    Agree with you about the PE seat belts.  Less frustration for me just to make belts from decals or strips of aluminum foil.

     

    Don

  14. On 9/12/2021 at 10:23 AM, Navy Bird said:

     

    Absolutely. The oil cooler intake on the bottom is larger than the carburettor intake on the top. The resin cowlings from HPM that I'm using have different sized intakes, and most importantly are so much better than what came with the kit.  I don't think HPM are 100% accurate (for example there is a vane in the oil cooler intake that I don't see in any photos), but then nothing ever is. 

     

    @Navy Bird Here's the induction system.

     

    20210915-105040.jpg

     

    And the engine cowlings.  There were 11 moveable cowl flaps.  The bottom fairing of the cowl flap section was not flaps.  It was rigidly attached to the nacelle structure.  If you open the cowl flaps, the top and bottom cowl flaps had different maximum opening positions.  If need, I'll look this up.

     

    20210915-110615.jpg

     

    The right inboard exhaust pipe was a little different.

     

    And just in case you need to know how flat to make the tires.

     

    20210915-105359.jpg

     

    Don

    • Like 4
  15. A short update.  The interior green has been applied to the fuselage and cockpit parts.  And the paint was used as a primer coat for the nose cowl.

     

    P9060406.jpg

     

    Work on the cockpit was completed using some of the Eduard PE parts.  I did not like the PE engine control quadrant.  The thin PE quadrant lacked 3D appearance so I made a new one from laminated scraps of the plastic sheet.

     

    New-engine-control-quadrant.jpg

     

    The PE seat belts are nicely finished.  They looked stiff and could not be easily re-positioned.   To use some of my aftermarket sets, I used aluminum foil and a Waldron PE set to make new lap and shoulder belts.  The sides of the seat were thinned as well.

     

    Seat-installed.jpg

     

    Here's the completed cockpit.

     

    Cockpit-Eduard-instrument-panel.jpg

     

    The fuselage has been assembled.  Now on to final assembly and a first coat of primer.

     

    Don

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 5
  16. @Gordon Parker Apologies for allowing my enthusiasm for Corsair models letting me run off at the keyboard and go up and down the scales.  I promise to keep to your original 1/32 Corsair topic.  I finally pulled my abandoned Tamiya 1/32 conversion project from the bottom of the stack to see what Part R5 is.  Upon opening the box I was instantly impressed by the quality of the kit and why I abandoned the Corsair IV project.  Making and detailing the "Y" duct.  Anyhow, here's what Part R5 looked like.

     

    20210912-085342.jpg

     

    Use the kit parts for Option B.  This will provide you with the all-around cowl flaps.  Get a copy of the Fundekals instruction booklet for the F4U Corsair.  This booklet went with the decal set with the FAA Corsairs on it, 2014 I think.  This booklet has lots of information and images of the fuselage scoops.  Also, "The Time Capsule Fighter: Corsair KD431" by David Morris is a must have, if you don't already have a copy.

     

    If you want to modify the cockpit, these may help.

     

    FAA-Corsair-Cockpit-Instrument-Panel.jpg

     

    FAA-Corsair-Cockpit-Lft-Side.jpg

     

    FAA-Corsair-Cockpit-Rt-Side.jpg

     

    Have you visited Large Scale Planes to view the stunning and impressive WIP and 1/32 Tamiya Corsairs posted there?  If not, definitely worth a visit.

     

    Don

     

    P.S. - You are orbiting very close to the black hole TAM.132.F4U!  It can suck away your $CAD, time and enthusiasm.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  17. 29 minutes ago, Chuck1945 said:

    Don, if I’m seeing this correctly, you basically removed plastic equal to the thickness of the sawblade for adjusting the seat?

    @Chuck1945 Yes.  That crude, rusty old X-Acto saw blade removes about 0.050" during a cut.  That is about the thickness of the bar at the rear of Part A22.  A little sanding to clean up and the image shows what's left.  It's a quick fix okay for an OOB build, I think.  Here's a more refined attempt with a piece of 0.010" plastic to simulate the armor plate. 

     

    Don

     

    20210911-195111.jpg

     

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  18. Hi Jack,

     

    I'll start with the white rectangles under the wing.  The Corsair flaps had a series of small doors that moved upward into the flap well when the flaps were extended.  This left a gap between the leading edge of the flap and the wing structure.  The small doors were called flap gap closing doors, or flap gap covers.  The 1/48 Tamiya kit is designed to be built with the flaps extended with the flap gap doors molded in the up position.  The 1/48 Tamiya kit can be built with the flaps retracted by modifying the kit parts and making the flap gap doors.  The fit of the assembled flaps is surprisingly good.  The white rectangles of plastic are the homemade flap gap closing doors.  I used 0.005" plastic sheet.

     

    1366770_ce2bf2146ffca42fd9b7b8021b660f85

     

    Dana has answered the query about the fuel tank opening.  Removal of the forward radio mast left that hole in the skin at the forward face of the firewall, right and forward of the fuel tank.  The support channels for the mast were mounted on the forward side of the firewall.  The portion of the mast that extended into the fuselage was oval shaped in cross section.  The hole may appear to be circular, but more likely was oval shaped.  I don't have a close up of the opening.  I will speculate that this hole was sometimes covered with a fabric patch.  Here's images showing how I correct the 1/72 Tamiya Corsair seat problem.

     

    Tam-72-F4-U-1-Seat-before-adjustment.jpg

    Seat as is in kit.

     

    Tam-72-F4-U-1-Cut.jpg

    Cut off the seat mount.

     

    Tam-72-F4-U-1-Seat-After-Adjustment.jpg

    Seat assembled to bulkhead.  And no worries, the cockpit side walls will still fit.  You'll have to remove the bar connecting the side panels at the rear of Part A22.  Glue the side panels to Part A16.

     

    I would leave that nub of plastic aft of the cowl flaps.  This represents the mounting hook for the drop tank.  I find scribing the backfire valves to be very difficult in 1/72.  Scribing those very small, concentric circles is beyond my ability.  I usually just use small disks of decal material.

     

    Don

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  19. And another detail that needs correcting, F4U-1 birdcages, early F4U-1A's and some Corsair II.

     

    The Tamiya kit provides the same tail wheel doors in all of the their F4U kits.  If you look at pictures of upside down Birdcage, early F4U-1A's and Corsair II's, you will note that the tail wheel doors are not as provided in the kit.  This image in a previous post is a good example:

     

    F4U_Corsair_HMS_Illustrious_FAA.jpg

     

    Here's the door construction.

     

    F4-U-1-early-tail-wheel-door.jpg

     

    This is the revised door as provided in the kits:

     

    F4-U-1revised-tail-wheel-door.jpg

     

    In 1/72, making a new door with the tiny ribs is difficult.  PE or 3D printing would the best solution.  With determination, one could make the new 1/72 doors from plastic or brass and cast copies.  In the larger scales, tedious work to scratch build, but could be done.  If only the doors were not so visible.  Sigh.  Or forget about fixing them and build the model.

     

    Don

     

    P.S. - Look at the outboard MLG gear doors in the image above.  The Tamiya 1/48 kit instructions have the right and left doors swapped.  Easy to fix.  I've built them with the doors in the wrong position. I'm not going to snap them off and reattach them. In the future, I'll get them right.

     

     

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 3
×
×
  • Create New...