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don f

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  1. I'm ashamed that my work on this Hellcat ceased in October of 2021. This project should be included in my list of abandoned projects. I have resolved to complete this project. Here's the process thus far. Eduard produced a very nice kit of the Hellcat. Curiously, the centerline fuel tank lacked the detail found in the other parts of the kit. The flange joining the tank halves is missing along with the filler cap and access panels. This was easy to remedy by using stretched sprue to make the flange. The filler cap and access panels were scribed. Here's the finished item. After finishing the tank, I realized that I should have removed the molded on straps and replaced them with strips of aluminum to better match the PE strap section connecting to the fuselage. I'll leave it as is. The painted and gloss coated model. My usual GSB paint mix was dry in the bottle. So, I used GSB from a bottle of Floquil Maritime pre-mix. This paint turned out to be very dark and glossy. This was lightened by shading with Floquil Flat GSB from a my Floquil Military paints. The white geometric markings were masked and painted. Here is the model with top coat and gloss coat applied. After curing, the Fundekals decals were applied. These decals were a pleasure to use. The prop and Barracuda resin wheels are finished and ready. I applied the final semi-gloss top coat today. Soon as this varnish cures, the exhaust stains will be applied and final finishing steps completed. I'll post the images of the finished model in the Ready for Inspection page. Don
  2. First primer coat. Sanded and putty applied. The seam joining left arm and board will be a little difficult. The arm segments are different diameters. I'll likely remove the gap after the base, figure and board are painted.
  3. Finally, I've had the time and motivation to get back to model building. Whilst waiting for paint to cure on a couple of projects, I decided to dig out my Hawk Classics Beach Bunny. Another fun build as a companion to my previous Silly Surfer. Keeping with the surfer theme, the Beach Bunny is being built as less Beach Bunny and more a Surfer Girl. I had originally considered modifying the head by removing the hair and sculpting a wind blown hairdo. Too avoid all the required work, I settled for repositioning the right arm and abandoning all the kit extras. Here's the preliminary pose. The right hand has been cut apart and made into a shaka. The right arm was lengthened a little. More to follow as the model progresses. Don P. S. - Here's the inspiration.
  4. Hi Colin, Yes. A white light. I presumed that you were going use PVA or equivalent to make the light. Don
  5. Hi Colin, Here's the US WWII identification lights. Note the yellow light has an amber lens. The green light has a lens that appears blue. The lights were installed flush with the aircraft skin. The forward dorsal ID light was deleted early on in F6F-5 production, BuNo 70289 and subs. The other dorsal light was a blue formation light. Here's a good example of the dorsal light. Don
  6. I was unable to complete my Hellcat in time. After a long delay, I've started working on the project again. I do not want this kit to end up as another abandoned project. The model was sanded to remove putty and primed again. Very little additional putty was needed. The model will be built without HVAR's. The kit provides HVAR's with chunky, rectangular launchers. The wing has corresponding large rectangular openings to accept the rocket launchers. The rocket launchers were thin. Thin rectangular pieces about half the width of the existing openings were inserted and glued into each opening. New rocket launchers were made from strips of 0.015" plastic. The individual posts were glued in placed and sanded to the correct length. Much better. With all the PE parts in the kit, I wish that Eduard had provided the launchers in brass or stainless with some detail etched in. After the windscreen was installed, the Eduard kit masks were applied. I've never used Eduard masks and hope that they work well. The MLG, tail wheel, small gear doors were glued in place and a first coat of blue has been applied. The plan is to mask and apply the white markings this weekend. I'll continue to post updates here until the model is ready for inspection. Don
  7. Major components are assembled. Primer applied. Getting close to painting the top coat. Exhaust pipes drilled out. After assembling the fuselage, the rear cockpit bulkhead had a gap all around the top. I'm not sure if this gap resulted from me failing to dry fit or if that's the way the kit goes together. A silver of plastic sheet was cut and shaved to fit the gap. The strip was glued into the gap. After the glue cured, the excess plastic was scraped off and the paint touched up. Not perfect, but better. Hopefully, there will not be many rounds of filling, sanding, priming and repeat. The kit went together very nicely with a minimum of adjustments and tinkering. Don
  8. Agree with you about the PE seat belts. Less frustration for me just to make belts from decals or strips of aluminum foil. Don
  9. @Navy Bird Here's the induction system. And the engine cowlings. There were 11 moveable cowl flaps. The bottom fairing of the cowl flap section was not flaps. It was rigidly attached to the nacelle structure. If you open the cowl flaps, the top and bottom cowl flaps had different maximum opening positions. If need, I'll look this up. The right inboard exhaust pipe was a little different. And just in case you need to know how flat to make the tires. Don
  10. A short update. The interior green has been applied to the fuselage and cockpit parts. And the paint was used as a primer coat for the nose cowl. Work on the cockpit was completed using some of the Eduard PE parts. I did not like the PE engine control quadrant. The thin PE quadrant lacked 3D appearance so I made a new one from laminated scraps of the plastic sheet. The PE seat belts are nicely finished. They looked stiff and could not be easily re-positioned. To use some of my aftermarket sets, I used aluminum foil and a Waldron PE set to make new lap and shoulder belts. The sides of the seat were thinned as well. Here's the completed cockpit. The fuselage has been assembled. Now on to final assembly and a first coat of primer. Don
  11. @Gordon Parker Apologies for allowing my enthusiasm for Corsair models letting me run off at the keyboard and go up and down the scales. I promise to keep to your original 1/32 Corsair topic. I finally pulled my abandoned Tamiya 1/32 conversion project from the bottom of the stack to see what Part R5 is. Upon opening the box I was instantly impressed by the quality of the kit and why I abandoned the Corsair IV project. Making and detailing the "Y" duct. Anyhow, here's what Part R5 looked like. Use the kit parts for Option B. This will provide you with the all-around cowl flaps. Get a copy of the Fundekals instruction booklet for the F4U Corsair. This booklet went with the decal set with the FAA Corsairs on it, 2014 I think. This booklet has lots of information and images of the fuselage scoops. Also, "The Time Capsule Fighter: Corsair KD431" by David Morris is a must have, if you don't already have a copy. If you want to modify the cockpit, these may help. Have you visited Large Scale Planes to view the stunning and impressive WIP and 1/32 Tamiya Corsairs posted there? If not, definitely worth a visit. Don P.S. - You are orbiting very close to the black hole TAM.132.F4U! It can suck away your $CAD, time and enthusiasm.
  12. @Chuck1945 Yes. That crude, rusty old X-Acto saw blade removes about 0.050" during a cut. That is about the thickness of the bar at the rear of Part A22. A little sanding to clean up and the image shows what's left. It's a quick fix okay for an OOB build, I think. Here's a more refined attempt with a piece of 0.010" plastic to simulate the armor plate. Don
  13. Hi Jack, I'll start with the white rectangles under the wing. The Corsair flaps had a series of small doors that moved upward into the flap well when the flaps were extended. This left a gap between the leading edge of the flap and the wing structure. The small doors were called flap gap closing doors, or flap gap covers. The 1/48 Tamiya kit is designed to be built with the flaps extended with the flap gap doors molded in the up position. The 1/48 Tamiya kit can be built with the flaps retracted by modifying the kit parts and making the flap gap doors. The fit of the assembled flaps is surprisingly good. The white rectangles of plastic are the homemade flap gap closing doors. I used 0.005" plastic sheet. Dana has answered the query about the fuel tank opening. Removal of the forward radio mast left that hole in the skin at the forward face of the firewall, right and forward of the fuel tank. The support channels for the mast were mounted on the forward side of the firewall. The portion of the mast that extended into the fuselage was oval shaped in cross section. The hole may appear to be circular, but more likely was oval shaped. I don't have a close up of the opening. I will speculate that this hole was sometimes covered with a fabric patch. Here's images showing how I correct the 1/72 Tamiya Corsair seat problem. Seat as is in kit. Cut off the seat mount. Seat assembled to bulkhead. And no worries, the cockpit side walls will still fit. You'll have to remove the bar connecting the side panels at the rear of Part A22. Glue the side panels to Part A16. I would leave that nub of plastic aft of the cowl flaps. This represents the mounting hook for the drop tank. I find scribing the backfire valves to be very difficult in 1/72. Scribing those very small, concentric circles is beyond my ability. I usually just use small disks of decal material. Don
  14. And another detail that needs correcting, F4U-1 birdcages, early F4U-1A's and some Corsair II. The Tamiya kit provides the same tail wheel doors in all of the their F4U kits. If you look at pictures of upside down Birdcage, early F4U-1A's and Corsair II's, you will note that the tail wheel doors are not as provided in the kit. This image in a previous post is a good example: Here's the door construction. This is the revised door as provided in the kits: In 1/72, making a new door with the tiny ribs is difficult. PE or 3D printing would the best solution. With determination, one could make the new 1/72 doors from plastic or brass and cast copies. In the larger scales, tedious work to scratch build, but could be done. If only the doors were not so visible. Sigh. Or forget about fixing them and build the model. Don P.S. - Look at the outboard MLG gear doors in the image above. The Tamiya 1/48 kit instructions have the right and left doors swapped. Easy to fix. I've built them with the doors in the wrong position. I'm not going to snap them off and reattach them. In the future, I'll get them right.
  15. The cockpit images above indicate the installation of the following: TR 1196 HF R 1147 Homing receiver ABK IFF ( IFF Mk. III, I believe) TR 1143 VHF Operational requirements would determine the radio equipment needed. Don
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