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Alvaro Rodriguez

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About Alvaro Rodriguez

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  1. BTW, Anycubic also has a new model in the works, the Photon Ultra. No further details yet but that they are switching from LCD to DLP (the same system you may find in Wanhao printers in example). I have no idea if there is any afordable DLP projector delivering true 4K resolution so we will have to wait and see for knowing the actual specs.
  2. Elegoo will be entering into the small factor 4K printers arena with their Mars 3. No ETA yet. Knowing the supply issues Eleggo has with their Saturn I would not hold my breath for having these M3 available anytime soon but it´s good to know that now that the trend is bigger is better that there are other manufacturers interested in releasing small factor printers with higher resolutions. The more the merrier always. Exciting times indeed! Regards! Alvaro
  3. Ops, I hope it´s evident but I forgot to say that I deleted on purpose all the dimensions and constrains in the sketches just for having cleaner images! Regards! Alvaro
  4. Mike, that bowser is a candy! Excellent! There you go a SBS. You may see that I´ll be working with a half tyre and an elemental tread for simplicity. Notice also this is the workflow that Tony explained in his earlier reply. Here we got the tyre cross section. Using revolve we create to different bodies. One for the tyre body. And another for the running band So simple: The resulting body is as follows: And now the running band
  5. Just for the record, I also use design in scale always. While rescaling a 1:1 desing to any given scale is not an issue for the software, this is misleading because rescaling from 1:1 can lead to actual printing issues often so that´s not how this works. The problem here is that you can reach printing constrains and the model cannot be printed safely. Details (no matter in positive or negative spaces, like a rivet, a plate or a groove) can be too small, thin or fragile to be printed. So there are some minimun dimensions we should not go below for ensuring our model is p
  6. On the resin cleaning topic, note denatured alcohol -that uses to be ethanol- works flawlessly with most of the resins out there (not saying that´s the recommended choice by some resin manufacturers actually). No matter it had a low percentage of other ingredients -like IPA or even MEK-, uses to have zero adverse effect on the prints, quite the oposite. Another option is acetone. Far more aggresive but works like a charm. Just ensure you to do not let you part into the acetone bath for too long. But that´s not a problem because the cleaning is much faster. No matter th
  7. If you are thinking in testing these resin 3D printing waters on a budget I concur with the previous comments and the contenders in the small factor arena are the Anycubic Photon Mono (and not the SE) and the Elegoo Mars 2 (and not the 2 Pro). I want to remark the low cost factor because for anyone wanting to discover how this tech works that seems to me the smartest path for gaining some first hand experience with this amazing tech without breaking the bank. Both feature all the "must have" ticks in the checkboxes you may need. Rather capable 6" 2K monochrome display
  8. Mike, if your print is falling off the support trees I would say that the usual suspect here is one of the following: too weak (thin) supports or too few supports... not saying a combination of both. In the slicer, and using the slice selectors, doublecheck how your print is growing. At some point the suction force is strong enough for taking the print off the supports. This uses to be when you got the maximun cross section paralell to the builplate. On a side note, and as I have already said before, while I also love to see those prints "ready to use" off the build pl
  9. Hi Mike. My printing settings: The normal layer height uses to be that one that matches -more or less- the printer XY pixel size. In the OG Photon I used to work with 0.040mm layer height and in the Photon Mono I´m using 0.050mm AS LONG AS the print does not require to use a thinner layer. If that´s the case I use to work with 0.020 or 0.030mm layers. Regarding the bottom layers, four use to be enough for me, no matter the printer. Regarding the rest of the printing settings -exposures, speeds...- that will depend on your printer and resin setup always. I h
  10. @FZ6 as you already know better than me, orienting the part and placing the supports it´s a discipline by their own and there is no single solution that fits all the cases. I started printing the wheels flat, supported in the back (the sidewall facing the vehicle and the build plate). While this ensures a perfectly circular shape in the wheel always, that requires a true forest of supports and you may have some washed out surface detail in the supported side. I also took that route due the printer performance. I was using a OG Photon then and this orientation gave me the best detai
  11. @Mark, looking good! And based on your comments looks like you are also following the very same workflow than Tony or me... so looks like we are all in the right path then. I wonder how it will print. Just saying because those tiny hex nuts in the centerhub may have no room enough to be printed and they end melted with the rim but as soon as you printed you will know. The development cycle -from the design to the printed part- uses to require some iterations often so nothing to worry about I would say. @Mike, sure! Just be warned designing wheels and tyres can be adict
  12. Exactly what FZ6 sais. When Autodesk implemented the 10 editable files limit a few months ago I already had more than one hundred F360 designs. I´m well above 140+ now and that measure has had zero impact in my workflow because I do not use to work on more than a couple or so of designs at once often. And switching any design from "read-only" to "editable" (and vice-versa) it just a mouse clic and you can do it anytime as long as you are within the 10 files limit. I can see they implemented this for saving some cloud computing with the free licenses but for a casual use
  13. Oh, Matador wheels! I applaud your good taste sir! Funny enough my first braille scale wheels -I use to design 1/48th AFV bits but I also wanted to discover printing boundaries so I switched to small scale- were the 13.50-20 wheels for the venerable 76th Airfix Matador kit! For the bowser I did not design that specific tyre pattern as per that iconic pic but I went for the Firestones that you may see in other ref pictures often. If these could be of any help for you just let me know! Regards! Alvaro
  14. Hi Mike: Tony´previous post details the workflow I also use for designing tyres often. But, again, and as you already know, F360 always offers different paths for reaching at the same destination… not saying there are countless tyre treads so there is no single solution for every wheel out there. I recall that the first time I had to design a tyre, and as Mark suggests, also I went to YT and up there I found a couple of videos with different samples that led me to the starting point and gave me some useful hints and tools for job. The rest was a question of
  15. Gents: There you go a SBS I posted in FB some years ago on the topic of making tyre treads for road wheels. 1.- Here we go with some basic in detail wheels 2.- We can see that basic tyre tread detail is raised while it should be engraved. The challenge here is to have five grooves as tyre tread and a must have is to have them parallel and evenly spaced too. 3.- There you go the required tools for this task. A sharp and thin p.e. saw seems obvious. But, trust me, the critical key tool is the post-it block.
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