IJNfan
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Posts posted by IJNfan
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8 hours ago, Zoran Srb said:
I have same combo Revell/Pontos for Bismarck, and apart for getting 3d printed AA (it saves a ton of time, and looks almost as good), I don't think I'll get anything else.
As far as colors go, I find Lifecolor range good enough for my eye.
Taiho.... have you looked at.. https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/aswacauehwtc5wmk2nyr.html ? 330€ + P&P for DX version... It is a bit pricey, but the kit is phenomenal....
For wood decks I've used four very thinned Humbrol sand and light brown colors, to paint individual planks. Very thinned, to change a color just a bit. After that, coat of Future clear polish, followed by darkish brown-grayish enamel wash, over whole deck. Then, I installed it on painted model, added towers, and small bits, dk gray wash around them, and for finish Model master flat clear lacquer ,it gives 100 flat finish
(you can check it here, see if you like the result... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235119950-fujimi-1350-yamashiro/ )
Anyway, I like how fast she is progressing, waaay faster that I do mine (although I have suspicion that, my constant lack of time has something to do with three kids in primary school, and accompanying homework... 😄 ), cant wait to see your Bismarck finished, keep us posted.
You can be 100% certain that you do not need anything else. I do want to caution, the Pontos instructions on this one, as it is an older kit, are lacklustre in their incompleteness. I don’t understand why you d want to toss out the pe aa guns, the time spend on building = the fun of modeling.
The deck itself is something i wanted to be very dark and smudged. I test on leftover pieces which look I want for a given model. This one was the one I went for.
next model (likely an IJN carrier in 1/350 or a cruiser in 1/700) will see the use of abteilung oils. Main paint is still tamiya, and though Colorcoats are an attractive alternative, them being enamels and requiring primer, which tamiya, if done well, does not, makes it a toss up. Lifecolor does look good too though.
Imo the pacing is pretty slow, seeing how 14 months have passed and what has been done.
lastly, I know the Taiho, a great kit, I will deffo get that at some point.
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On 5/15/2022 at 11:26 PM, Starfighter said:
I'm not sure if you've noticed, but the funnel cap is on back to front ! Hopefully it should be fairly easy to correct before you go too far . HTH
Turned out to be quite doable indeed. Thanks for the advice, better late than never. 🫠 I fixed it first thing when I unshelved the build.
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On 3/5/2023 at 6:50 PM, S-boat 55 said:
Hi All,
I'm in the closing stagesbon Taiho and having needed to paint some parts during assembly I mixed all of the paint, it's then taken me weeks and weeks to get to the point of doing the main spray and you guessed it the mixed paint in the tajiya mixing jar has started to cure in places, hoped it'd come back with a long mix as it needed thinning anyway, but no joys, loads of bits of 'film' in it that just clog the airbrush,
Any idea what I could use to strain it? I've heard people suggest coffee filters but no idea of that's a legitimate idea or not. Can't get more paint as it's out of stock,
Help!!!!!!!
Sam
It is probably way too late to be of help for this instance, but I use Tamiya panel liners to stain the deck, the dark brown and black one to be precise for that dirty look. Otherwise the normal brown and grey can also provide interesting effects.
If you want a cleaner but still dark look I would suggest tea a dark tea as coffee filters could leave residue grains behind, due to which i ind the use of it a questionable idea.
Maybe it ll help in the future if you run out of oils again.
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So after a while I resumed the build, and worked on the funnel and a lot of other stuff. It is too much to describe, those who would like to see the interim steps are welcome to check out my instagram modeling channel.
The whole update consists of 89 pictures to be precise.
They have been listed in the order that I shot them. I will try to keep this more up to date going forward.
Sky out.
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Great work on one of my favorite IJN battleships.
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On 5/15/2022 at 11:26 PM, Starfighter said:
I'm not sure if you've noticed, but the funnel cap is on back to front ! Hopefully it should be fairly easy to correct before you go too far . HTH
I haven't so thanks for that. as for the repairs, that is not easy at all, so this build is hereby shelved indefinitely.
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On 4/3/2022 at 1:27 PM, Adm Lord De Univers said:
Time to inceease my shares in putty companies. Fit does seam a bit off. (Thank you here all day).
David
You should, that d net you some hefty profits while this build continues
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Hello everyone,
sorry for the delay. Sometimes the motivation to upload the pictures is lacking, especially cause it is such a chore as you have to first put m in Imgur and then upload them one by one to the post. So here is a catchup for the last 6 week of work on the funnel and aft hangar. The fit is absolutely terrible as always till now in this build but it works out well enough.
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I have started some work on the funnel. Putty work is very much WIP. Also the fit is not good at all, in line with the rest of the kit.
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Your luck with getting this kit that way is monumental. It's been sold out everywhere as of the last 2 years over here. Envious.
Looking forward to it.-
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On 3/1/2022 at 12:30 PM, Alpha Juliet said:
This would seriously put the fear of God into me! What adhesive are you using for this? Thanks and best of luck!
This would seriously put the fear of God into me! What adhesive are you using for this? Thanks and best of luck!
its a bit late, but for people that are new ish with PE the use of CA gel can help. I use ZAP CA gel for everything I do with PE and it works wonders. The fact of it being a gel means its much easier to dose the application with a needle/toothpick than it would be with the thin ca glues generally sold in modelstores.
The work however looks clean and straight so so far all good😄-
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On 3/12/2022 at 11:49 AM, Faraway said:
Had a play with the wooden deck and how it will react to paint.
Unexpected results, outlined with yellow is X27 Tamiya clear red put on without any masking tape and showing little or no 'bleed'.
But when I added masking tape, outlined in blue the same paint 'bled' through.
The red panels without an outline are XF7 Tamiya red which 'bled' even without tape.
So, I'll paint the red panels with X27 clear red free hand, a couple of coats and then I'll use the white circle decal supplied with the kit for the panel upon which will be the swastika.
Next.
The wooden deck is on and wasn't too bad a fit, although I did have to trim a couple of bits that overhung the sides. Only by a mil or so.
The turrets and bridge are just dry fitted.
highly interesting, I will keep this in my mind during my own paintwork decisions regarding that stuff. Yellow turrettops, an interesting choice, ll be interesting to see how it looks like once completed. Do you plan on making the funnel top aluminium color?
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1 hour ago, S-boat 55 said:
Quick question all, as you know Graf Zeppelin is a little stripey at the moment, - do i need to now prime her all in black to cover what ive done or will just going straight for the final colour work?
depends if you still want to use the preshading effect it will give through your paint or not. It will probably remain slightly visible as an effect, so if you want that panel effect then by all means leave it be. IF you do not want that then I would definitely put on a full black coat. My own instinct would say full black, but that is because I rely on postshading instead of preshading.
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To put it shortly, it has been a while, a month and 3 days to be exact. A nasty covid infection axed me for 2 weeks and then Uni stuff had to be catched up. when I did work I did not take pictures simply cause ever since covid I have been very tired during the evenings.
I worked on the superstructure and the weathering of the hull.
The different levels of the decks have not been glued, just a dryfit.
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There isn’t much I hate more than painting camo schemes and masking tape. But I have a new candidate for the topspot, leaking masking tape.
I will not paint the black and white stripes on the side. Historical accuracy be damned.
After a lot of touchups, it looked somewhat decent
it is good to know that with this the most painful part of the build until the rigging has been finished-
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16 hours ago, Jerry L said:
Extremely happy for you, and it looks great!
thanks.
9 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:Gidday, I think you can be rightly proud of that paint job, but be careful - that boot topping line looks so sharp you could cut yourself. 🙂 Regards, Jeff.
Xd I will be careful😂
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I often do not update on the day I finish certain works, but this time I want to share a small piece of work. When I pulled of the masking tape and saw the results of the first 3 layers of paint on the hull I felt elated. I don't think I have ever made a bootstripe this sharp. What also makes me quite happy is the colors, the lower hull turned out with a little variation that will only increase with the red enamel grime I will add. The bowrepairs are concealed, and the putty was indeed smooth. So all in all, a major hurdle taken. Next step will be to put the fake bow, aft, white/black sidestripes on. Still thinking about which color I should use, XF24 or XF63, anyone here experience which one of the two best approximates?
the stuff on the deck has been coated in xf-19. Meaning the wooden deck can be installed once i have done the rest of the hullpaintjob.
Stay safe and thank you for you keeping up with this ;
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18 hours ago, steve5 said:
great work david .
Thanks Steve, I ain't david though 😂
On to the update. My camera has resumed its rightful job. Lets hope that the strike season is gone with that.
A good update.
I have finished all plating, windows covers, firehoses, stairs and stuff on the first level of the deck. I calculated that I do not have enough lose stairsteps to make the ridges real protruding stairs like I did on the bow. But I have to recount to be certain. If I have enough then I will do that. I have made a start with the plastic parts of the front superstructure. I will include this on the first deck so that it forms one piece. Paintwise this is possible and it d save me a lot of pain and tears if it worked.
Made my first Paravane
More detail
The turret stuff from the other side. That in one heroic battle with the tweezers.
I did some extra bowrepairs cause well, some pe plating didn't fit. It doesn;t look as smooth on the picture cause of some paint leftovers but it is buttersmooth to the touch. Used a little polystyrene plat this time for the nodge on the tip.
Lastly I made a colorpalette, this old tablecloth is slated for replacement anyway so I used it, not tidy, not smart, but it is what it is. As you can see from top left to bottom to right
german grey
dark grey
black
Nato Black
I will use the nato black for the boottop as long as the green hue disappears after drying. Indecisive which grey I will use on the steel decks and the fake fake + turret roofs.
that is it for this time.-
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8 hours ago, Adm Lord De Univers said:
The detailing is outstanding. And nuts. But flabbergasting. And pretty insane.
Looking good! I bet it's quite fiddly at the moment but once done she'll look magnificent.
David
It is very fiddly. But the most fiddly bits are yet to come. Once you have done a few bits its mostly repetition so you get some muscle memory. Having a third hand stand with a magnifier also helps a lot.
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I have never seen AK water in action, so I will definitely be watching this with interest.
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People that scratchbuild and kitbash amaze me. Wouldn’t be able to make stuff without some instructions and pieces. Nice boat, begins to resemble the version of it that I have in world of warships
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Pogress 07/02
Still on phone pictures. Done the main part one side of the first superstructuredeck. I need to mount another deck so that I can do some railings too and save myself the trouble of painting twice.
i have added putty on the bow cause installing a PE piece caused a part to break off. Grrrr about that, but so be it. Fixed it once so can do it again.
mounted the PE around the high barbettes. Mounted piece of of PE on the bow (2 small plates), will have to check whether the opening for the anchorchain is wide enough.
have cleared the deck of everything that needs to be cleared. Once the putty is done I can put the hull in a coat of xf-66, do the boottopping, fake bow and sidestripes.
did a testfit for the superstructure deck. It needs some sanding.
the detailing is nuts
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3 hours ago, S-boat 55 said:
Interesting that pontos' approach to adding detail to the superstructure is to essentially cap it,
Not with all sets as I am aware. Nagato will showcase that in the future. But it certainly looks amazing
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Really nice result! Scale really allows for some nice details.
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Revell Bismarck 1/350 - Pontos
in Work in Progress - Maritime
Posted · Edited by IJNfan
Thanks. With the pricetags these kits come with there wasn’t much choice but to bite through the pain at some point.
I am aware of the aftermarket strategy, but these days if I buy a kit it usually also buy all possible bells and whistles in terms of PE, aftermarket resin and more so when the day comes I finish the Bismarck I will keep it in mind as one of the great IJN flattops will be my next build.
I’ve been on the verge of buying colorcoats about 5 times now, every time the good old tamiya paint withheld me from it, maybe I will give it a try next build.
Lastly a small update, working on another fire control unit.