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About IJNfan

  • Birthday 07/01/2000

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    History, Organ music, Modelling and history

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  1. In all Honesty, Carrier's are the least interesting because they tend to be flat and boring, so that means gotta decorate the deck with bombs and torpedoes and carts. So be careful with that. Which Nagato did you get, the 1/350?
  2. My build process is unpredictable in that I will work lots of hours during one week and then nearly nothing the next one. I will post updates when I feel enough progress has been made, accompanied with proper pictures. But there will probably not be any consistency in when they pop up. There is 3 things I work on right now The hull - Putty is dry but I need sandpaper which is in transit. After sanding I will paint it and put it away in my cabinet. The superstructure deck I - I have assembled the deck and removed the relevant plastic pieces, coming time focus will be on mounting the metal plates to the sides and adding the relevant PE details. for this picture I put the two decks in their relevant places The putty on the Hangar door is curing for 24 hours, then sanding will follow Superstructure Hangar + deck - I have assembled the plastic parts including the hangar door. I will model the door closed as I have no experience scratchbuilding stuff like that and this model is not for experimentation. All PE sideplates are added. For one plate I have also added the relevant details. The putty will be sanded away and is currently curing for at least 24 hours
  3. Interesting tank historywise and intriguing to see how people weather tanks, its still plastic but still the difference to ships is huge.
  4. Uschi rigging thread is highly elastic and light and if done properly so that the the stuff isn't stretched much it is unsurpassed in its ease of use and the endproduct also surpasses stretched sprue by a mile imo. I use the 0.01 for 1/700 and 0.02 or 0.03 for 1/350. 0.03 for 1/700 looks far too thick imo to be a realistic contender but in terms of looks all of them will do. As an aside, if you don't want to do PE but want to give the model a little more intricate aa guns and radars and stuff Finemolds has great plastic stuff. Your build till now looks clean and I can only commend you for picking an IJN ship to start with here is an example of 0.001 rigging (bended mast was from a fall not from the cables pulling too harshly)
  5. Really nice job on the ship. I have added it to my buildlist as it seems a nice build of a rare ship and the flyhawk set adds some nice detail. The only thing I wonder about is why you did not replace the flyhawk 25mm triples with some others that have proper brass barrels?
  6. This is a really curious case, If the captain understood what the destroyers tried to do I wonder what his reasoning was to go ahead and do this kamikaze style rush.
  7. Hi, I am personally quite a fan of the Academy modelers editions of 1/700 ships. If you want an OOB experience with some PE for railings and radars they are definitely nice. I build the enterprise from that series and the fit was good, the detailing decent (not special but its serviceable). if you really want the best detailing then you’d probably be best served with very fire. But expect to pay a premium for a deservedly premium product.
  8. Graf Z is a ship I probably will never build as it has neither the looks, the operations history or any hold on my imagination whatshowever (purely imho). Taiho would come at 210+70+50 is roughly 330, expensive but for a years worth of modeling pleasure thats about 25 a month . Maybe my parents ll donate a few months worth of cash on it when I celebrate my 22nd birthday or finish my studies this year
  9. Seeing how I love the Taiho I will be glued to this topic from now on. Can only say that its sharp work.
  10. If I may ask, what did you do to the wooden deck? I am thinking of doing some brown wash on it to make it a little darker but your deck looks a little weathered but not too much.
  11. Sadge, ark is small, I will wait for an implacable model to come at some point. Shokaku, Taiho, Akagi, Junyo or Hiryu would also make a nice cv build I guess. If i can get my hands on a very fire taiho including all the goodies then y’all can guess what the next build will be the Idea was to have her represented in the state she started rheinubung with, not on the date she met Hood. This also means less weathering.
  12. Here is a link to the pontos set, its a one box covers your whole fricking model in brass sized pe set. Their resin is usually made by veterans. http://pontosmodel.com/html/35022f1.html the paint scheme you mentioned is without the darker bow and stern portion. For reasons of accuracy I will probably include the stripes. As for the colorcoats, shifting brands wouldn’t be an issue if they were acrylics like tamiya because all my weathering is enamel that I can put and wipe directly onto tamiya acrylics without any damage to the paint. Which also means less clearcoats. (One to be precise.) My paint process is as follows: So the paintjob includes 6 steps. You can prime or not that is personal, I do not do that but otherwise that is step 0. Step 1. The basecoat, this must be an acrylic paint, preferably gunze, mr color/mr hobby or tamiya. Step 2 postshading Use highly diluted pain to apply lighter areas, darker areas, slight brown effects. Generally make the pain extremely thin, hard to say how thin but a 8 or 9 parts thinner 1 part paint solution is probably close to what i do. Step 3 use enamel washes (i use tamiya panel liners for this, to apply extra filters, this can be dark or brown based on what you apply it on. I tend to use greys and blacks mostly. Step 4 After all this work you put in a clear coat, again this must be an acrylic paint. Tamiya clear or mr hobby clear would be the best options. It cannot be an enamel. Step 5 apply very small dots of enamel rust effects (I use AK) and then use (AK) white spirit to make streaks with a flat and soft brush. step 6. giving the ship a good powder makeup As you can see its very specific build around the paints being acrylic and the weathering enamel, going color-coats means throwing 2 years worth of learning and skill training into the dustbin. I ll take the lower color accuracy for what it is. i may look into bridge equipment but I also don’t really know whether I feel it would be worthwhile seeing what is all in the pontos box. something I haven’t decided on is whether I will turn the turrets sideways in elevation or whether to center then. For reasons of historical accuracy I will include a swastika flag front and aft. scratching isn’t a thing nor is the historical accuracy. It must be believable not 1-1, as long as its believable and reasonable then its fine. Maybe for my next build which will be an 1/350 aircraft carrier (not sure which one) of IJN or RN origin. lastly don’t expect too much, i’ve been working towards this build for 2 years, building up skills and just experience ao I am somewhat nervous myself about how this will turn out.
  13. Trumpeter hulls in my experience are always a big pain to put together. Haven't build warspire but generally afterwards it doesn't get really painful, though the fitting is often a tad loose/just nood 100%. Paintjob looks good. The only thing that caught attention was that in the middle grey part there seems to be a lighter bit in the center, is that a lightning effect or something you did on purpose with the painting?
  14. Looks very nice and clean. Nice progress. Looking forward to your painting and weathering progress.
  15. Two posts, in one day, that is not standard practice. But here goes nothing. While closing the Mikuma build I have already been doing some small works on the next buil. After much deliberation I have decided to make the bismarck first. This has a simple reason, after that I wan't to solely focus on the IJN. The long term many decades ahead goal is to build one ship of every class of destroyers, cruisers, carriers and battleships in the Imperial navy. So bismarck first, so It can keep Hood company. If I come to it I may also build the Eugen to get a Denmark straight trio in my display cabinet (I don't care for POW). A few important things first, The kit: Revell Bismarck 1/350 The extras: Pontos Set Bismarck 1941 The paintscheme Here stuff gets a little interesting. I want the scheme to be accurate in the sense of what colors went were etc. She is supposed to be shown in early rheinubung colors as in the picture This gives some dynamism to the ship without making it too, I do not know how to put it in english but I might wanna say lively or too imposing, I rather have a subtle painscheme. For that purpose I may employ a little bit of artistic creativity and Remove the blackwhite sidestrips as if the crew was working to paint them over. This would also make the paintjob a lot easier compared to the official setup. I have debated using colorcoats and asked around for some issues that would arise, but in the end I have decided to stick with my current set of tamiya colors. The codes I will use are as follows Hull red: XF 9 Hull red(4 parts) + XF 7 Red (2 parts) + XF 10 Brown(1 part) Bootstrap: XF 69 NATO BLACK (not certain but probably as this is not 100% but a tad less Turret Roofs and fake bow / aft: XF 24 or XF 63 Freeboard: XF 66 Superstructure: XF 19 Anyway I have already done some works, Glued the hull, removed a few pieces, found some parts to be damaged (tip of the bow was broken off) so I have been busy sanding and applying putty, yay, kit had been dormant in stash for over a year so no refund for the damage sadly. Ship is huge and the pontos set is even worse. But I really like to see this ship come together, German ships are very nice in looks so lets not screw this one up. It needs a lot more sanding so I have ordered more sandpaper and also the missing paints (24, 69). My glue is gone cause i mix the putty with glue to make it thin so I need to wait a week until it all arrives.
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