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Jobbie

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  1. Thanks for your input- I very much appreciate it. I wasn’t aware there was a slat/flap aftermarket set available for this. It seems to me odd that is they’d model it without them deployed, as they’re weighted to extend at high wing incidence angles. I’ll seek them out! As for the wing-strut problem of the kit, I had read elsewhere that the attachment holes under the wing were 4mm outboard of where they should be. That would create an anhedral problem, I’d imagine. I’ll find out when I mount the wing, I guess.
  2. Thanks, Chris, that's brilliant. Decision made.
  3. Morning / Afternoon / Evening (Apply the greeting that suits your specific timezone presently), I'm building the Eduard / Gavia 1:48 Westland Lysander... Yay me. I've had a look for interior photos on this Britmodeller walk around forum and wherever else, and I've found no definitive answer to the interior colours of the Lizzie- It looks to me like the RAF museum example is standard British interior grey-green BS283. However, other photos one one being restored at Duxford is grey-green above the window sills and silver/aluminium below the windows- to include the internal structural cage and external stringers and formers for the outer linen. Which is more correct? I'd assume the inside of the doped linen skin is unpainted, so I was going to paint the inside of the fuselage halves a sail linen colour with pink splotches and mottling. But would I be correct to assume the fuselage internal horizontal stringers were unpainted in wartime? And only restored examples are painted as a corrosion control measure? Does anybody have a photo of the back seat area of any Lysander, be it a Mk.I, II, III or SOE? (I'm cheap that way...) Any input would be most welcome. Kind regards.
  4. I'm building the same kit - Airfix 1:72 Spitfire Mk.1a, U-GR, M3290. The instructions are indeed in error: Step 4 instructs the wing cavities to be reversed - white port & black starboard wing internals. However, step 5 instructs the port wheel well fairing is to be black and the starboard wheel well fairing is to be white, matching the painting guide on the back of the box. Good pick-up, Mr Flying Rodent! My Haynes Spitfire repair manual shows the entire wheel recess (to include the square strut cavity) to be interior green/grey on the BBMF Mk IX- No earlier marks are shown definitively. I'm going to paint my wheel recesses the colour of their wing undersides, but I'm considering painting the square strut cavity silver, to match the fuselage underside of this particular Mk.1a. I guess none of this really matters... What colours did you choose in the end?
  5. We have to get rid of that crappy beer somehow! I can't believe YOU DRANK IT! Bwahahahahaha!!!
  6. No CPI winglets- Purely smooth, white fibreglass. In theory of operation, they'd be manually dispensed from the crashing aircraft and float down to the ground like a feather, twisting through the air as it falls. The J's don't have them fitted- they have a beacon with a G-switch in the vertical stab's forward fillet. I was trained on the J model at the Lockheed factory at Marietta. When I asked about the CPI's not being fitted to the J, the instructor wasn't sure what I was talking about. I explained the system on RAAF H's, and he started giggling. He said the duck's bottom CPI's hadn't been fitted at the factory since Vietnam, because they didn't work. We all agreed that the only part of a Herc which reliably survives a crash is the vertical stab. Making the CPI integral to that structure makes much more sense.
  7. Nope. At the end of the life, the Aussie H models were painted grey all over - to match the J-30 models - which where being repainted a darker shade of grey than their delivery scheme. The QEC's (Quick Engine Connect) were themselves being repainted all-over grey as they went into overhaul. I'd imagine there were no green ones left at the time.
  8. MrB17, we Aussies don't call the "bever tail" the "duck's bottom", we call it the "duck's ... alpha romeo sierra echo". Apparently, the profanity filter edited my earlier post. I couldn't find a close-up photo of the CPI, but maybe these will suffice? When they weren't fitted, a green aluminium plate went over the recess hole. And later, a grey blanking plate after they were transferred from 36SQN to 37SQN and repainted low-vis grey.
  9. Australian H model CPI aerofoils and their housings in the “duck’s bottom” were painted white.
  10. All landing gear emergency components and procedures remain the same for E, H & J. Flight deck and galley for the J are completely different, of course, but the bunk remains the same as E/H/K.
  11. Awesome work, Pappy. Great recovery, too.
  12. Details aren't necessarily "weak" on this kit, Tom. These aircraft by their very nature have no rivet or screw detail. All the detail you've painted a lighter shade on your kit is simply tape placed over panel joins. In reality, it's the same colour as the surrounding panel. All the screw-heads are pre-filled to leave no cavity under the tape. Only two panels have quick-access allen-key heads, and they're spring-loaded flush when no tool is inserted. The engine nozzle looks correct to my eye, but the external coating is actually more of a brownish colour. It will be interesting when F-35's are entered in model competitions- I believe they'll be marked down for lack of weathering, when in fact they're kept pristine or else the low-observable features may be unreliable.
  13. The nose-wheels on the Gnat were free to castor like a shopping trolley's wheels up to a certain angle, probably near 45 degrees. Marked by two lines on the forward nose door is the maximum permissible angle to turn the nose wheels via a tow bar. It's probably about 35 degrees, so you won't put undue strain on the internal castor assembly. There is no manual steering system on the Gnat or most similar sized aircraft of the era. You want to taxi left? Press the top of the left pedal to engage left main wheel brake and throttle up slightly- called differential braking. The rudder would have no use at low speeds either. No hyd lines, cables or shuttle valves are mounted on the nose strut of the Gnat. With weight off wheels, the nose wheel assembly settles into an internal divot on the centre-line, which enables a clean retraction. With weight back on wheels, the centreline notch is raised up clear of the internal divot, and you're free to steer by a combination of rudder movement and applying brakes via the rudder pedals as you bleed off speed. Then it's only braking on one side to turn.
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