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Everything posted by Terryz

  1. Hello all brief update if so interested. Another item found along the road side. Pocher 1/8 k70 1907 Fiat F-2. Trailered it home and since resurrected. One advantage of a bought item, poorly packed by the shipper (not me), damaged in shipment - you can request monies back and build it as needed. Patterned the wheel color accents and the dash and floor aging off another k70 build I saw some months back. Credits really go to that unnamed builder - wish I knew who that was but I do not. Last picture shows portions of the opened spoils received early this spring. Yes I did salvage and rebuild the front suspension cross member and strengthened and stabilized it. I also had to add a plate to the outer frame surround holding the steering drive gear box; the narrow bottom red frame circular stirrup was compromised. That is also the cloth covered copper wire for the plug wires; tricky stuff to work with but used some ingenuity to work with it. And for those that know me, yes I also salvaged that broken steering wheel. It is rebuilt from the 4 or 5 pieces in the last picture. I also really like the case - very nice quality and readily shipped. Finishing up also a 1/8 k73 Alfa Romeo Gran Sport Spyder but a little ways to go. Have a case for it too when done. Hope all is well. Best regards and wishes for the summer to those interested. Time for outside work. Terry. ps Ian - no I have not binned the k72..... yet.....
  2. Hello Ian..... thank you for checking in. Great to hear from you. Yes all is well here. And no I have not binned it. Not yet. Still tempting though :) ... but kidding aside two things really. First I surrendered the kitchen and build workplace for the kitchen/dining room floor replacement. That tear out and install took about a week and is just complete. It turned out perfect and I absolutely love it. That only took 25 years to do. And I've not returned to this. No updates on the Rolls' floor unfortunately. Second, in all honesty too, it was my impression that perhaps some of my input, approaches, or techniques and also the critiques of them were not particularly welcome or helpful. So I have somewhat retreated. Life is far too short for an unneeded or unnecessary 'fight' or what seemed to me as judgmental criticism of my apparent failings, flaws, or 'mistakes'. It is just not worth frustrating others or myself. But please do keep in touch. I've also go a k73 Alfa Spyder that I may get to some day. I am more optimistic on that one. But maybe I am again simply naive. And best wishes to you and others for the upcoming Christmas and new year holidays.
  3. Hello all, and thank you for the insight. And perhaps a few points of clarification are worth mentioning: Any and all are welcome to ignore or modify or simply disregard any technique I have used or insight I contribute. This is only my experience and attempts to fix this mess. (On the other hand...... if anyone would like to acquire this puddle as it sits..... feel free to PM me .... I would be happy to consider any offer. And it will save me quite a bit of time. I already have many other projects waiting.) Yes, perhaps some is overkill. Or unusual, but unfortunately many of the pieces are broken and brittle. So I am having to adapt. And I am trying to 'build' or stabilize it as best as I am able. I am using sparing bits of CA to fill a gap or secure a piece; e.g. the PS sliver used to refashion the clipped front edge of the coach. What I did find is that whatever was done with the gray hard brittle shocks and firewall that polymer in my opinion differs from the others. And I envision some colorant (what I don't know) was used to impart the gray color which has some iridescence or shimmering sheen it seems, at least in certain lights. The firewall on this prior build had stress cracks throughout it. To the point I bet if I lightly twisted it in my hands I would easily have four or five pieces. Simply buying another of the same vintage did not seem worthwhile. So I tried to salvage it. And the CA glue tends to absorb differently with that polymer mix than the others - in my opinion. At least that is my observation. I also noticed when drilling it, that it feels different, harder - contrasted with the black PS components in this model. And the shocks and firewall blocks were prone to break easier or crack, for whatever reason. Even if simply drilled. The firewall block broke at one drilled hole. Yes, that is my chemistry observations perhaps. I am an organic chemist, not an engineer. (Obviously my poor engineering skills show...... i.e. my choice for body mounts :)) And Codger I appreciate the insight; the blue painters tape is a partial hold for some pieces while I work around this thing. And one is marking a centerline on the upper cowl. Further adjustment and fitting will be needed before I secure it. I am not relying on them for a hold or set. I have one door that swings like a bar room entrance and the other wouldn't budge with a chain. One other thing I had forgotten which only applies to this "tub". So it is not recommended unless required for your build. I had to cut another 1/8" from the front of the floor lip. So now it is closer to 1/4" that was shaved so that it will fit within the firewall. Since the floor is on solid, this built kit needs that to allow the body to slide forward enough to meet with favorable lines for the rear bonnet edges - when the combination is set on the frame with the firewall within its blocks where some adjustment is allowed. But not enough for this one, taking into account the radiator which I have custom to leave where it is. It was removed once to set the front shocks on the frame earlier. And I don't intend to remove it or adjust it again.
  4. I have a little update on my continued work to unhack the hacked project. Couple of positive reports on the front body edge, firewall, and bonnet covers and sides fitting, and frame mounts. I wanted to hurry to get a few things done since I need to vacate the kitchen a couple of days. The Covid-19 delayed floor install of marmoleum was held off for about two months. It starts Monday morning. - Back to the build - I used a cut piece/sheet of the PS I fashioned from an old floppy disc case to repair the driver's side front body edge. I am fairly pleased with it. (I mean for comparison - look at that nicely ripped edge I started with !) Heavily filed and sanded and shaped my PS sheet and a touch of CA with a toothpick (thank goodness for capillary action) and then filing and sanding to finish. Couple of pictures before and after on it: The continued refinements and fitting also requires additional work to the bonnet and its covers as well as the firewall and its fit within the coach. Couple of things needed are shown here: a notch in the lip of the front body lower lip recess - to allow some movement and positioning for when it nears assembly - and chamfers to the rear of the bonnet/engine cover vertical edges: I also heavily chamfered the rearmost edges of the firewall top and vertical / side edges. And speaking of the firewall, lever shocks, and firewall attaching blocks - if anyone ever decides to remake the Rolls Sedanca and similar kits - I think they need to reformulate/change the mix and filler on that stuff. From my observation it is quite brittle and not well suited for much. It is very unstable and loads with stress cracks over time and anywhere it was drilled, shaped, formed, or molded. I stabilized the stress cracks on the firewall with CA and it heavily penetrates into it; almost will haze and 'smoke' it if you use to much - so go sparingly. (Ok paint it one says...... that is not in my repertoire for this one, not yet.) That polymer mix I believe is highly filled with some pigment or perhaps metallic material. That same brittle polymer mix also gave way on the firewall attaching blocks as they were being fitted. So I stabilized the rear of each with black PS sheet and will use 2 mm screws and nuts to hold it. This also required considerable fitting and filing of the firewall lower edges, slots for the firewall lower horizontal edges in the 'concrete' blocks and the vertical frame mounts for the blocks. But it appears it will work: Lastly I am working on my rig for the rig - i.e. how to attach the coach body to the frame. For whatever reason, likely fear, I am reluctant to want to drill heavily or modify this frame/chassis rails. At least not now. While stable, straight, and not appearing compromised or flexed, portions do have the slight surface oxidation and slight greying or haze in some places. (Nothing major, but with circa 40 year old polystyrene ..... well.... back to that fear component - and if it does continue to crystallize or harden, one bad cut or drill point and..... likely 3 more weeks of unplanned/unforeseen work.) I am convinced that the black filled polymer mix of the frame is not the same as the body and wing/fender panels which is more pliable or soft but not as strong. So here is what I am planning to try: PS blocks strapped to the frame, through which I will screw four mounts from the lower portions of the coach. Here are the pictures, the front needs a lot of work still. That included sawing/shaving the front screw mount with a 'gar fish' shaped X-Acto long thin saw blade. The last picture shows the rear block that I made for one of the two sides. 2 mm nuts are drilled into the back of the blocks and locked in with CA. (Those screws are for demo only; much shorter or cut screws will be used.) And quite the monkey puzzle to attach without drilling or cutting the frame. (The lower brass strip slides over the bottom frame lip and outward. The block slides into it from above. The top brass strip slides over the top frame lip - forward of the block and then slides rearward over the shaved edge of the block to clear it.) Once the body is finally position I will drill through the lower points into the four blocks. Where that occurs I will then drill from the rear of the frame blocks and place 2 mm nuts CA-ed into the rear of the block to receive the body screw. I know.... complicated, o well, it looks like an idea and I never do anything simple. I mean I am the idiot that bought this 'baby' from the impound lot at a sheriff's sale. (But alas - I chuckle to myself anyway....) Now off to finish stripping the kitchen and await the floor. Enjoy the fall weather and remaining leaves and colors til we next touch base. And thanks for the encouragement. (ps. I just noticed in the first picture below - you can see the brass clips of the left side rail as they fit over the other frame rails. I had not noticed that til just now.)
  5. Hello all possibly still following. Yes I used the time and silence to ponder and consider. As one might suspect with this one I had become disillusioned. What better time to report I hope some promising news on my 'Little Shop of Horrors' than after Halloween. Between raking leaves, house work, buying another used car (1:1 scale), and eyeing this Pocher 1/8 I have made progress. I think. As I noted earlier I plan to attach the coach to the frame at four points. Two in front near the existing mounts (which I will modify) and down low rear side bottom body panels. I believe my attempt to use PS blocks to span the width to the body and give a mount will work. Those I am considering strapping to them frame with brass straps. I will also likely attach PS blocks to the inside of the body panels at the opposing point to help narrow the distance. But I will leave room for shims so the body will be adjustable and can be removed. Earlier advice was correct. This coach needs to sit slightly down and back from original. I previously thought about 1/4" towards the rear. Work tonight to align all points suggests more like ~1/8" backwards. I also shaved about an 1/8" from the front of the floor lips. That allows the coach to slide forward into the firewall. (Recall, this floor is ON this one. Solid.) I will now do further alignment of the hood and firewall. It also appears I need to lower the firewall some as I believe others have told me. And use of either 1.5 mm, 2 mm, and 0-80 screws, rods, and nuts will help. I will persevere. I also realized this evening that it seems either from bad build or frustration (not mine yet), the prior builder clipped the top edge vertical front body panel lip on the driver's side of the coach. Now I know why I could see the silver firewall. I will use some PS sheet to fill that spot. Thanks again for the thoughts and encouragement. In spite of a perhaps discouraging build/rebuild. I've not given up yet. Not entirely anyway. Best to all.
  6. I love it Ian..... anytime my friend. I like to stay busy with 'many irons in the fire'. Sometimes too many. On this front, all my 1.5 mm and 2 mm stuff came in yesterday. So between that and the 0-80 stuff I already have I hope that will help with some mends on this poor beast...... I want to get my solid 'tub' (coach) on the frame better. And if I get too frustrated..... maybe I'll convert it into a black '32 Ford 3-window coupe ala ZZTop. Cheers!
  7. Thanks guys.... all in good fun. And yes, don't worry I did not take any offense or slight. I too, am perhaps a tad frustrated it wasn't a better start. And I eye this thing often trying to decide where to go next (and not to go). I too shall be hopeful. And a little humor is good for the mind..... mine anyway. Once they glued that floor on solid and tied it to the bottom of the interior side beige trim panels that sort of 'did it'. Besides.... I've got a kitchen floor to get in, a 69 Triumph cycle seat I need to get back together once the skin comes back from the upholsterer. And I've got a 73 MGB GT that I need to refresh my amateur welding skills on. It needs work too. Keep at me.... all is good!
  8. Hello Codger.... yes, and no worries. I appreciate the input and wisdom. It is quite informative and it is nice to see what can and could be done. But you are right..... I did not get any face cards in this deck. Yet I do hope to apply some concepts and approaches and a piece or two of my craft. By example, I will soundly secure the coach down on the sides of the frame. But it is also true I don't think I can do many of the nice modifications. Not without a whole new coach tub and all panels and $. And as you had suggested earlier, size it up well before proceeding or deciding. I am also doing that. Daily. And don't worry..... if I ever drive this gem to a Pocher car show, I promise I will park in the back corner. Over by the dumpsters. Don't worry, I won't park next to you. :)
  9. Hello all and greetings Ian.... nice to see you here. Yes I've done a bit more to it. Sorry no pictures yet. I am still plodding. And today was a few four letter jobs..... nothing major and I am proud that I did not put my hand or foot through anything or send anything sailing. Not deliberately or forcefully anyway. I think I have a new category for build progress/pitfalls: emotional ups and downs. Several of those today. Back to neutral now. My saving grace was a break to deliver four antique tube radios I sold. (Something has to pay for this one.) And then I raked pine straw and placed it in the garden beds. What does this have to do with a Pocher rebuild? ...... read on. So I set to stabilizing and trying to firm up the doors on this gem. Passenger side is pretty good. Driver side is horrid. All you need do was touch the bottom and inwards it goes. So.... remember.... the floor is on this babe good and the inner side body panels and lower recesses for them are firmly in and access limited..... so to get to the bottom driver side hinge I drilled an ~1/4" access hole through the bottom rear vertical edge of the floor adjacent to outer panel. Bingo.... I can see the rear edges of the hinge and inside of the outer body. Scratched the walls and prepared to CA the hinge to the outer body panel. Whoooosh..... out it spits and frees from the bottom hinge and bottom of door pops and swings free somehow held by the top hinge which held. [insert your favorite four letter friends..... ] So I deliver the radios and rake the pine straw and work in the garden about an hour. Serenity returns. I regroup and go at it again. Success. Door is on, carefully reinserted over the hinge (between inner beige panel and outer door skin). Couple dabs of CA to wick and hold the hinge to outer body panel and door skin. Ps. I even used the trick of a couple toothpick drops of 3-in-1 machine oil or sewing machine oil on the hinges and hinge pin before I started the 'glue job' in hopes it might swing when I am done. No verdict yet. The door was bad to begin. I give myself 50:50 odds. At least the drivers window is down. Maybe one day I can put the tub on and steering wheel back in. Something to strive for...... So yep, still a feral cat..... and a witch with one heck of a broom. And it was tempting to want to set out and find the ahem 'builder' of this beaut. But I didn't bother. Yes..... the problem with this one now is in the mirror. I bought it. And as other dear friends would say, Terry your only problem is the six inches between your ears. And Ian..... you are off the hook. This was not your build. At least not that I know of...... but hey it could be.... How much will you give me for it? Stay tuned. And I hope to have some decent ideas and saves on this again soon. I have made further progress on how I think I will attach the coach to the frame. If it works I will do it at four points, all four lower outer corners near the frame. And if that works, depending on the wheel and axle alignment proceed and set about to raising and supporting the body above the front and rear leaf springs. Believe it or not, the bonnet sits pretty well on the coach and radiator. I also used 0.072 brass rod and made the two outer vertical radiator tubes. And I will use two pieces of same making horizontal rods to support the radiator and firewall rigid. If I ever get that far. All the best.
  10. Have a positive update on a few fronts. The horn and the coach (or tub). I got the horn dome/bell from Paul Koo and set to place it. Well, now I see why it was not finished properly before. True to fitment, the horn trumpet sits too proud in the channel for the dome to place properly. So I shaved/flatspotted the top of the rear horn mounts with a file. And then while placing and tightening the screw rotated the trumpet slightly so that it did not have too much droop. Couple pics below. I know it is much nicer chrome..... but it is better than the pit helmet I made for it. I also set to work on the coach build. Those reading may remember that the builder for this one had used 40' pile drivers and cement (ok cyanoacrylate/CA - but two glaciers of it......) - as they gave up late in the build. I'm too embarrassed to show pics of that unshown beauty for now. And I can't free the floor without likely serious damage to the side panels, floor, and inner door panels. So I have adjusted. If I can resurrect it fairly I will eventually show the original mess. I set to proper positioning of the cowl; at least as the 'original fit' and panels will allow. Only driver's side was attached with Pocher screws and it was a poor fit.. The passenger side drooped free - held by scotch tape. Until now. I filed the vertical screw slot recesses closer to the outer body panel to help with positioning so that it would narrow both sides. Also squared and roughened with file all of the hidden mating surfaces. Before shot of the driver's side after I made a 'cheater' screwdriver from a coat hanger. It is about 8" long and works like a charm. And it is better than having to drill access holes everywhere. I also mocked up the front panels lightly. Next will be to place all on the chassis/frame and see how it does and adjust plenty. I am also thinking I will have to either Dremel or file/bevel the inner rear edges of the vertical bonnet panels to have them better clear the narrow lip on the forward body panels. And I will go with Codger's great suggestions to differently attach the coach to the chassis than original. And I am also figuring what braces I will build to support the chassis/frame rails upwards on the leaf springs to get ride height as best I can. For those using any of the Pocher screws, the 1.3mm drill bits from Paul are essential. It was suggested in the build directions to use a #91 screw (4 actually) to hold the cowl/windshield to the forward coach skirts. Well, I didn't measure all exact but that is too long and didn't dare try that. So I clipped #91 screws closer to a #90 and used them on the passenger side. Yes.... horrors.... depending on how it aligns I will CA the joint. Else I am sure it will all pop loose once I complete the final assembly and place the last panel on the chassis. And in tribute to our fellow builder Mad Steve from Johannesburg I will add a category of 'Cut screws' = 2! (He had used something like: snapped screws - snapped fittings - backwards to move forward moves. I was marveling at his Bugatti coach build and wish he would return! Besides, it would not be fair to add a category of bad or poorly fitting pieces or panels. I've already lost count as have we all I imagine.
  11. Thanks for the wisdom and shepherding! I shall heed this great advice. Very much appreciated!
  12. Hi Poul, thanks. It didn't do that bad. Yes I might clear them eventually. And if I do I will need to keep that lacquer away from the PS shells..... MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) and acetone love that stuff. I still haven't stepped on the center body or decided to make a hearse flower car out of it yet. So there is still hope. I think. I'm making some PS/ABS sheet blocks. Reasoning is that when I sized up/set the coach/tub on the frame, I believe I will need to position the coach slightly forward of it's actual mount. And also quite possible I will need to slightly tip it one way or the other front to back and up and down forward or aft. I am thinking I will probably screw wider block bases to the forward body mount screw and the rear compartment rearward mount. Then I can position it as needed. And I will place the mounting screws wherever they fall. For now I am going to stabilize the cowl and center forward body panels. Only driver's side cowl was attached. The left front was left loose...... and yep, CA was used as the body work and fine lead filling for the seam. ps. Thanks to who (I forget who....) that nicely reminded me this Rolls had a coach section. Heck, how many times in high school I looked at the inner door sill of my 64 Chevelle Malibu SS...... "Body by Fisher".... Best to all.
  13. Y'all got me to thinking so I went after that poor chrome on this thing last night. Not too bad for progress. But please put away the magnifying glasses and binoculars. This car is not going to win Pebble Beach or St. Simon's/Jekyl Island.... but it did not turn out too bad. Here is a pic with the drivers (right) side lights polished lightly. And a second pic with both sides done. Used Mothers Aluminum and Mag polish paste. Great stuff. It takes very little of it. I use a Q-tip. And I figure that what is left of the chrome/nickel is so thin so I went carefully. If it is lacquer or clear coated metal I doubt it will work. If your Q-tip/cloth blackens its working. The stuff is amazing. And Codger was right.... sure enough, there were three dribbles of CA on the right front fender, buried near the headlight. I used a small Swedish flat file carefully, 1200 and 2000 grit, 3M fine cut, and Mother's cleaner carnauba wax and it turned out pretty nice. I have a nice fresh horn dome and some other bits for the chassis coming from Paul Koo in the next few days. I'll post pics of the finished fender then. Still needs a bit more polishing. Take care all.
  14. Hi Poul.... yes, that is true. Greetings to you over there! I still hope I can salvage it to a nice visual. Somehow. And as one could expect, the prior 'builder' didn't do a full job in other areas. So even as a naked or bare chassis it falls a little short. Yes the carton lid will catch things. Besides, it drips oil :) And I hate to get a good setup before the kitchen floor is done not til the end of this month. It actually is easier sizing it up at a low level too. The cardboard also makes it easy to see anything that does fall - against that floor. And since it is on the floor..... what drops doesn't fall far or bounce.
  15. Thanks and yes I fear I will. Or at least what is left of the sanity I have and that it will consume to do this. Thank god time is free. I did finally get the courage and mocked it up just now as bad as it seemed. Ok, I know.... not Pocher museum quality, not worthy of this forum appearance....., and not winning any awards unless it is the Minnie Pearl, but with the placed firewall and bonnet cover and tub laying there actually not as bad as I feared. Course this is just sitting there. And I still need to join the engine covers at the hinge. Still I have a long long ways to go - and try to get the tub centered along the wheel and axle lines. Baby steps..... Thanks! And I think I will just paint the entire firewall and engine all flat black - then none of us will know..... (Just kidding...) Besides, this one will have a 20 foot paint job, or I guess I should say a 3 foot paint job. ps. yes the horrid kitchen floor is waiting for a renew. Covid-19 has slowed arrival of one of the 2 styles 10x10" Forbo Marmoleum flooring that is on order. That Armstrong 1986 solarian has to go! Enjoy it while it lasts.
  16. Hey Codger, thanks and I fully concur. Appreciate the wisdom. This one won't be a gem or top shelf. Not close. Not even diamond in the rough. But it gives me something to waste some time on this winter. And that way I am not making a mess of something else and ruining a fresh kit. Yes this one suffered badly.... but just so y'all know (and I know you do), this was not due to me. At least not yet. I simply made the mistake of acquiring it.... (hehe). As to the upsides - frame is straight as an arrow. Wheels and tires (all 5) are great. The body visible outer surfaces are perfect. (How the ah hummmm former builder kept CA off of it while they dipped all else in CA I shall never figure out.) But yes it would take paint nicely. I'm on watch for a spare floor. I think I will just keep taking careful measure. And will - if I get the courage - probably take a fine saw or Dremel to both outer sides of the floor on the dropped edges that surround the frame and maybe take ~1/8" of each side. Not sure yet. And need to measure well. And you are right, the nickel and chrome is rough. I'll try some Mother's Al and Mag polish and see if I can do anything. It helped with the radiator grille surround (at least I keep telling myself that). Otherwise, this is just a Rolls that sat out in someone's front yard and sun and snow for 30 years. Instead of that heated, carpeted, air conditioned sealed garage I always wanted. And if I ever do paint it Goldfinger light yellow on the lower sides - this poor gal doesn't deserve a nice set of white wall tires - unless they fall into my lap. I hear ya too - I've got lemons, so I need to make lemonade. Or as a dear colleague used to say ..... well typical day in the office, need to make chicken salad out of chicken s.........t.
  17. Hello all, for those still reading..... as I envisioned this did turn out to be a feral stray cat. I think I will be making a hard left turn to stay off the wall. More on that in a second, but first a couple small accomplishment victories. No, not teasers..... just want to say something positive first. Most importantly I've tightened up all the nuts, screws, etc. so that this thing doesn't drop nuts or bolts every time I get near it or touch it. I figure with 40+ year old plastic and metal components I need to take it slow. I've gotten the fender attaching tabs nicely braced and complete. I used cut and shaped slivers of 3-1/2" floppy disc hard cases of polystyrene (PS) or ABS black plastic. Then well sanded mating surfaces and cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. A final picture of them is below. I also fashioned a missing horn dome/cap. I mentioned earlier that magically the passenger side horn trumpet had stayed in the horn mount all these years with no cap or bell/dome. Rather than buy every bag of bits known I made one. Again using PS/ABS cut sheets, then screwed to the end of a dowel, in the drill, and mini lathe with files and sandpaper. I then shaved it to the correct height using a Sandvik Razor dovetail saw. Painted and it is not that bad see below, I agree not 100 points. (But when you read the bad news below maybe you will agree with my latest opinion.... it is good enough. For now.) I also fashioned a missing rear shackle clip/cover (whatever it is called) part # 72008-04-K from 0.025 stainless. I am happy with it as pictures below show. And best yet the rear suspension no longer flops around like a fish in water. Also glad to report, that after eyeballing this sagging and misaligned suspension for quite a while, I was able to loosen all read suspension nuts/attachments and rotate the entire rear end assembly forward ~40 degrees on its shackle pivots. Now the driveshaft stays in place. But still not sure on where I am with rear wheel alignment in the rear fenders. That shall have to wait. I also fashioned a rear clip to hold the broken rear muffler tip hanger from 0.025 stainless. Better than using a coat hanger, and now the muffler will quit dragging as I fly down the freeway in my new ride. Now for the gem and (bad pun - the rabies bite)....... the body center tub assembly. Well, this poor thing did not entirely escape CA as I first suggested, nor did it miss a hidden CA glacier from the prior builder. Actually two CA glaciers. I shall not refer to the builder as a modeler. Sure enough....... when the center body was being assembled (upside down) the lower body to floor didn't fit and probably didn't fit on the frame either, and when all the needed screws were lost, well..... have I got a solution for you - lots of CA. Yep. Lots. Gallons of it. 'But wait there's more'. So much it appears that it seeped down well below the floor and has captured the deepest recesses of both the lower body side panel mounts that sit on the floor and the lower edges of the beige body inner side panels that grip the upper edge of the inner floor above the step plate into the cab. So I have not had much luck yet liberating the tub from the floor. I was so close. So unless I simply step on it (just kidding) this will be quite a feat. (I had hoped to rescue this better, use dental floss garrotes and tourniquets to get the cowl sitting correctly, screwed together properly, and align and straighten the center tub better on the floor. And to better narrow it so it will fit on the frame and mate with the bonnet covers better.) Sorry, no pictures of this treat yet..... too disgusted. What I might do is get a new floor section and Dremel cut the old one and try to free it - but I fear if I do I will then damage all and simply need all new center panels. This one is not worth that. Maybe the other option will be to Dremel cut small slots or slivers out of the floor and narrow it. You know, chopped and channeled. Then I'll put a Ford 428 in it while I am at it I am also now working on aligning the firewall and blocks. Ok, I agree..... why I ask myself? Well I don't give up that easily. And whomever factory drilled the screw receptacles on the gray concrete blocks that hold the firewall - well they were out to lunch and missed it by a country mile. See below. I have redrilled those a bit better. As it was, the firewall would not even slide into the slots. (It was simply 'dumped' inside on top of the frame before the solid body was placed on it. Seriously..... but at least I got the firewall to use.) Well enjoy the pictures and I am going to take a break for a bit. Before I get to a point of no return. And then the next thing I will be offering tons of nice vintage parts from a bodged k72 build and hoped rebuild - right here on this forum. (Just kidding I don't typically give up that easily.) I am also going to plow into Paul Koo's DVD on this k72 and learn some other great tricks. And thanks to the words of encouragement and suggestions. Much appreciated! Enjoy and please don't laugh too loudly or hard..... I will probably hear you. Take care til next time.
  18. Ps. Thanks again to all. And also to Mike & Codger for the ideas and help. For those interested..... I've started an entry under Vehicles for the k72 rebuild. It is under this topic...... Pocher k72 Rolls Sedanca 1/8 rebuild - The Black Cat thanks again for the thougts and support.
  19. Hello, I realized with some good input I should have moved or started my rebuild on a new tab. Apologies for outstaying my hello / greetings on the new members page. Let me see if I can get this moved and going. kind regards.
  20. Well i figured it out.......... Thanks for the support and ideas, input and inspiration. Went with Imgur. And did not add any extensions. Sorry I am not gone yet..... Here is my stray cat. Beautiful in all her glory. I've not decided yet whether it is feral or not, time will tell. Yes pretty much as was received. But well packed. I got right into it and forgot to get a bunch of good pictures early. But never the less here it is. Two pics of what it started as. I was fortunate and unfortunate in two respects. Well packed so arrived soundly. Yet when the prior builder had either run out of patience or lost screws, small items etc.... yep... here comes cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. And not always just a little. But lucky devil I am, they did not clean anything or sand it, so was for naught. And pretty much flaked right off. Whew. First order was to repair the wings. Front left fender front tab rear race was gone entirely. So I cut and shaved my old 3-1/2" floppy disk cases. Couple pics shown below. Then well sanded all mating surfaces, and yes CA with a round toothpick. Progress good so far. And I added gussets to the other tabs and strengthened them too. I'll also post on the rear suspension shackle/plate repair and horn bell build. One of the horn dome was missing. But hard to believe, lucky again..... that horn trumpet somehow stayed in that channel all those years. Because when I picked up something and moved it the trumpet fell to the floor. For now I will attest that some of the work on these things is four letter word territory. Thanks again.
  21. Hello all and thank you. Greetings to all and thank you for the kind words and welcome. I am north of the C&D canal in northern Delaware in the US. I will look at those two upload options. Thanks for the suggestions. And yes..... I'll let my two daughters 12&16 help me figure it out. I won't likely myself. The rebuild is of an earlier one done for the k72. It is in naked black polystyrene and doesn't look too bad. I'm thinking though, and again I'll let my little ones help.... I might two tone the lower body recesses with light light yellow or an early Rolls yellow. Ala the James Bond Goldfinger Rolls. Time will tell. I've always liked that look. For now I have simply disassembled most and located or rebuilt as needed. I went back through one of the medicine bottles and forgot that I do have the lower intake I think expansion chamber as well the rear license plate with all sequins. Glad I didn't go get them! Still sorry no pics..... but for now my N scale and prior work with Rivarossi Italy locomotive shells is helping immensely. I've rebuilt and stabilized the front wings (fenders) with small slivers of old black polystyrene floppy disc cases. Had to recreate the left front forward tab entirely. Works nicely. I've also fashioned from 0.025 stainless one of the rear suspension clips (part #72008-04-K). For not using my LED 3x loop but bare old eyes, calipers, and drills and files. I'll give a B+. Got to get a picture for us. Thanks again and I am happy to be part of this bunch.
  22. Hello all, Well I shall give this a try. As a non youngster I have fallen into a state and am working on a Pocher 1/8. No, don't get too excited, it is not a full build. But a rebuild and restore of a prior build. The k72 Rolls Sedanca. If I can figure out how to start a page for it I shall. And if I can sort an easy way to link/post pictures I may also attempt that. It looks like Flickr is an option to consider. In the meantime I will try to post a few notes on it as I attempt my modeling skills on this one. Thanks also to the cordial welcome and greetings from some of the seasoned members. Kind regards Terry
  23. Hello Codger, Thank you so much for the quick answer and greeting. Yes this is perfect help and I appreciate it. Good old polystyrene (PS) as I had hoped. (Rivarossi / Italy also used PS and ABS on their N and HO scale train shells which I have done much with in my days. But as my eyes have aged I had to go bigger scale. And then still with a 3X loop for certain things.) In a pinch I have found that the old 3-1/2" computer floppy disk cases (also ABS I am convinced) make great straight pieces when cut or shaved for repairs or stabilizing or replacing thin pieces. And I agree with you on acetone; if I needed something more aggressive (like a bigger or thicker piece) I would try lacquer thinner. Otherwise as you caution, everything will turn to a blob of brown or black goo. Plastruct has also worked for me. I like your idea too of not overkill - i.e. try minimalist first. I'll have to look closely at it. I have three pieces. It broke top center of the top rail and from each of the side rail bottom posts where they meet the bottom rail or cowl. I have also found that cyanoacrylate (CA; I used Zap-a-Gap - typically medium polymer as I recall) is good. But I have also found too that it does not always want to 'grab' the parts or hold a true repair. Sanding the mating edges first with say 150 or 220 grit or a fine file helps. Sometimes also PVC pipe glue compound can work, but it leaves a lot of residue. Dries quickly, although it too can be aggressive on small parts. You and the other's work here with these kits is impeccable. Wow. I somehow just found your circa 2017 thread on the Rolls maroon drop head (I think) with covered wire sheels. I agree - the plates or pans on wheel covers look great. ps. I figured with a moniker like you have and this British forum you must have been across the pond. I do miss Marty Feldman and his bits in those great Mel Brooks films. And thanks for suggesting I start my own topic thread. Let me see where I get. Talk about minimalist. I will win that. Think of Aesop's fable "The Tortoise and the Hare". (I am the former....) For now I can show only an open vintage boxed kit circa 1970 untouched. And one where I had to tape a few of the little packets as the sharp little pieces and pokey rods (bags 8, 12, 61) had worked through and scissored and shaved their way loose to free themselves - to find a new location in the morass. For now I will stew on where do I start, page 1 ----- or the wheels. It seems without the wheels I am no good for sure. Let it also looks like many give up after fretting them. I did peruse your build on the wire wheels with the white resin rings (I think) as well as the springs from the fellow modeler parts supplier. Good stuff there! Cheers and thanks so much for the welcome! Terry
  24. Wow gents (and ladies), beautiful beautiful work. Yikes! As a newbie I fear I am already up to my nose in the deep end of the pool. And all I have done is open the box and recover the loose pieces and categorize and organize them. I have not even dove in yet. I've got a Pocher k72 Rolls Sedanca unbuilt kit. I have wanted one to build since I was a kid. Long ago...... So now it is too late for me. I had a question if anyone would oblige. The windscreen on mine (upper rail) did not survive. I do have all the pieces. Are the plastic panels polystyrene, or ABS if anyone knows or could comment? If so I will plan to repair perhaps with a wire gauge drill bit and pin it, and with a touch of Plastruct (or MEK / acetone lacquer thinner) or more likely perhaps some cyanoacrylate (CA). And then sand or fashion to suit and paint. Thank you if anyone might know or comment. I tried searching a bit on the web to see what resins the Pocher earlier kits were cast with, but did not find anything useful. Best regards.
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