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1Coroner

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About 1Coroner

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  1. Can anyone explain to me how to add an image where I want it, rather than the random placement that seems to happen when I insert image from URL? Ken
  2. I have a couple of thin steel plates and a huge selection of magnets which come in handy to fixture the E-type tub/bulkhead assembly. I temporarily assembled the kit parts to ascertain the correct location for the "picture frame" (part 44) and the "engine mounting posts" (part 36). I'm thinking about using a balsa block the fixture the mounting posts and clamping everything with more magnets. I'll also add small plastic pegs where each of the square and round tubes land on the bulkhead and picture frame for extra strength and to keep the parts in register when I apply the cement.
  3. There's nothing like the first prime to show you where you still have work to do!
  4. Added the cruciform stiffeners and the recessed stiffeners in the bulkhead. Softened the edges with automotive body filler and lots of work with riffler files and sanding sticks. The brass bristle brush is great for keeping the files clean. My car had ribs on the sump so I added them using model railroad corrugated siding from evergreen. Once the sump is all the same color I think it will look pretty convincing.
  5. Absolutely! Thanks so much for the link. You've given me a ton of ideas. Ken
  6. Continuing to fill gaps and added the bulkhead-to-sill closing panels.
  7. You can't tell too well in the right-hand image, but the plastic is not just out of focus. I was watching a youtube channel that I like and the host showed a special weighted holder for the Tamiya extra-thin cement. I thought "what idiot would be clumsy enough to knock over and spill half a bottle of glue on his model?" Well ...... now you know one. Recoverable, but stupid just the same.
  8. I dry-fitted the front subframe to the bonnet "hinges" and placed a side frame in place to see how everything fit. The side frame was a perfect fit between the "picture frame" and the bulkhead toe panels so that lets me know that I can use it as a guide when I remake the side frames. Monogram/Revell just placed the bonnet pivot ahead of where it really is in the actual car, hence the alterations in the front subframe that I showed last time. I'm going to live with it. I also started reworking the bulkhead. I've started to create the sunk-in features and relocated the screen wiper motor po
  9. So I started dry-fitting some of the parts that make the under bonnet structures to see how accurate they are. Subframe supports 116 & 117, spacebar 118 and brace (for the radiator) 148 make up what the Jaguar parts book calls the "subframe". Part 44 and frame 46 make what Jag calls the "picture frame". 37 & 38 frame sides and 159 & 160 subframe braces make each "side member". The kit does not have a couple of the diagonal subframe braces. I expected to have to remake some of these structures, but I didn't realize how far off they are. I purchased a used Series 1 shop ma
  10. I'm planning on modding the Monogram 1/8 E-type to match the car I owned in the 1970,s. Well, here we go. My styrene sheet is on the way so it's time to start hacking into the bulkhead. The arrows point to the molded wiper motor, heater flow valve, a cover panel and what is supposed to represent a bonnet latch that I'll remove. I'll need to make a pocket for the wiper motor that I will build from scratch. The solid lines show where the footwells need to be modified. Will need to fabricate the rear engine stabilizer bracket as well. Should keep me busy for a while!
  11. Well, here we go. My styrene sheet is on the way so it's time to start hacking into the bulkhead. The arrows point to the molded wiper motor, heater flow valve, a cover panel and what is supposed to represent a bonnet latch that I'll remove. I'll need to make a pocket for the wiper motor that I will build from scratch. The solid lines show where the footwells need to be modified. Will need to fabricate the rear engine stabilizer bracket as well. Should keep me busy for a while! Ken I'll start a new thread ....
  12. I'm getting ready to start work on my E-type and plan to post frequent images. What URL (image hosting site) do you guys recommend using? Ken
  13. Beautiful job! I just bought a Monogram kit on ebay (around $200 here in the States). I plan to build it as the 1966 mid-Series 1 that I owned in the early 70's. So, in addition to the 19 items that you have inspired me to improve, I have to scratch build the different brake booster, reaction valve and master cylinder. When you get time can you take some more photos of the under-bonnet ductwork that you fabricated? Those are proving to be the most difficult images for me to find on the web. How did you make the open louvers in the bonnet? Ken
  14. I bought a new 750 Commando in 1972 ... should have kept it! Anyway, I see Airfix and Heller, and maybe others made kits. Any preference among them? I also see that some folks use insect pins for more realistic spoke replacement. Any experience or advice? Ken
  15. Hi all .... been away from modelling for many years and now getting back into it. The tools and technology sure have improved! I plan to build the 1/8 Revell XKE patterned after the real-world one I owned in the early 70's. There are about half a dozen on ebay this week. Eye-watering prices, but there you go. I plan to strip the chrome off the wheels (great advice on this forum BTW) and paint them, because they were painted from the factory on my car. A question ... I have a Grex TG3 airbrush with .35 needle. Is this suitable for painting such a large model? I've read that some car mod
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