Toftdale
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Posts posted by Toftdale
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Well I seem to be build this in a very unorthodox order, but I sprayed the door cards at the same time as the body, hence I thought I might as well finish them, although of masking latter there done. The reason I build new winder handles is because I tried to be clever and run a razor saw just down the back of the handle (leaving the central section untouched) to give a more 3d appearance. Let's just say it didn't work a planned, however yet again I think I have benefited from my mistake
. The winder was made from a bit of sprue, plasticard and a pin head.
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Hi Nick, I'm predominantly a car modeller but occasionally dabble in the darkside. I tried to build this kit a couple of years ago, but gave up trying to get the droid to stand on the STAP. I have just had a look at your Flickr account (very impressive, absolutely love the Turbine Combat Racer) so I am sure this will be just a good as the rest of your collection. The main issue I came across was the amount I had to splay the droids legs apart would mean you would need to position his feet ar 45 degree angles to make them stand on the foot controls. So I thought I would be clever and move the footrests in towards the centre,that did not work either. I'll be watching this with interest. In the end I scraped the STAP and now the droid stand centery of my desk. Andy
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Hi John,
Sorry must have missed this one, all the errors you point out are only visible because you have enlarged them on the photo. As I said before you have probably chosen the hardest colour to get a good paint from a can, its very easy to get not enough coverage or too thick, your's looks spot on. Great resurrection. Andy
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Today my pot of Zero Paints French Blue turned up. So now the racing stripe is completed, this was a fairly simple step, however if you could see me I'm sure you recognise my smug face
. Bizarrely I think me making a mistake on the white stripes width actually looks better as there is a clear demarcation between the body colour and the stripe.
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Wow - thank you for sharing, truly inspiring
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I agree with with Nick, your door cards have come out really great
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The first stripe is on, it my not look much but it took me ages. My new plan after my initial c##k up was to have the central white stripe at 4mm and the outer blue and red at 3mm. However after a bit of thought I decided to try to get all three at 3mm with a half mm border each side. I devised all sorts of elaborate plans to get the half mm gap using tape, rulers and technical drawing pens and then scraped it all and did it by eye. Also I'm not brave brave enough with the air brush just to mask around the area to be painted, so I had to mask the lot. Anyway the main thing is I'm really happy with how it came out
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The only non metallic blue I have is a Ford Olympic blue, which is a lot lighter colour than I really would like. Does anybody know of any other approach other than adding black to darken it as I think I would end up with a grey
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Hi, I'm fairly new to the forum so I not seen any of your other builds, but like the previous comments say if your stand is anything to go by then this will be an impressive model.
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Looking good
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Looks good and just in case your interested and have a spare couple of quid Silverstone Auctions have a real one for sale. The Auction takes place on the 13th and 14th of November
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Just started a little detailing on the engine, some of the photos I've seen show the exhaust being wrapped. I used some 3M tape (I think it came from a first aid kit, but can't be sure) painted Tamiya white (too see through unpainted) cut into thin stripes wrapped around the exhaust and secured to ends with photoetched cable ties. Not necessarily hard, but very fiddly. Plus also made a dip stick (also quite obvious on some photos) from brass wire (0.5mm) and a photoetch washer.
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The weathering looks just right, it always looks overdone when I have try.
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Hello, the only two tips I can give you is make sure you rough up the surface with some very worn wet and dry to give the primer a better chance of sticking and make sure you wash the model thoroughly to remove any greasy finger prints before spraying and then avoid handling were possible. Oh and as Andy says leave it at least a couple of days between spraying the the primer and colour. - Andy
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Oh dear, (that wasn't the exact phrase I used) some how I used 10mm tape instead of 6mm for the stripe
. So perfectly dividing the stripe in 3 will 2mm tape is not going to happen. Just ordered some 3mm tape so I'll end up with the red and blue at 3mm and the white central bit at 4mm. I knew it was going too well!
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Very clean build, they both look great.
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Well I promised slow progress. I pretty much exclusively use Alcad micro-filler primer on my bodies and this was no exception. The paint was fairly old so was not as smooth as I hoped, however will some well worn wet and dry this was remedied.
After some consideration I have decided to paint the car blue (as per virtually every one
). But with the twist of adding an offset French Racing Stripe, so first painted it white (Zero paints gloss white) and them using 6mm Tamiya tape to make a stripe.
The plan is now to use 2mm tape to add the red and blue sections, wish me luck - Andy
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Handsome pair, it amazing how simple exterior changes such as wheels, rear lights and front indicators make such a difference!
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19 hours ago, Marco F. said:
Cool looking little red 7!
The cycle wing conversion looks great. Can you please show us the mountings of the wings
Marco F
Hi Marco,
On the early sevens the front cycle wings did not turn with the wheels. The top mounting was connected to the front light bracket and the bottom mounting attached straight to the side of the car (presumably to a chassis rail). As mine was going to be a track car I cut off the lights leaving the part highlighted in yellow, then drilled up the end of this part allowing me to insert a bracket for the wing made of wire. Hope this helps regards Andy
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On 30/12/2015 at 22:23, stevepni said:
Does anyone know if there was a kit of the S4 made?
I have only just joined the forum, hence the answer almost 4 years late
. Nichimo made one, however it is a fairly crude model designed to be motorised.
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Considering my obsession with the car it strange that I have only built 1, about 15 years ago, hopefully my modeling skills have improved since. Although it the first car I painted using an air brush and was proud at the time that I converted it to cycle wings.
I also too have all three 1/12 caterhams and the detail set from Replicas of Maryland which includes photoetch to make working bonnet catches! However my favourite is my 1996 1400 supersport below, photographed on last years holiday to Spain
It only makes 128 bhp, and Torque is also quite modest at 100 lb foot, but it only weighs 520 kg, so it is more than quick enough. My car also has the 6 speed gearbox (Caterhams on design) which is effectively a 4 speed with 2 extras slipped in so you can always be in the power (5k plus). The change up light comes in at 7200 and if your not quick enough on the up change the rev limiter comes in 200 rpm later, It not relaxed or refined, but it talks to you and rewards you in away that I have never experienced in any other car.
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truly fantastic, I am sure an awful lot of people (myself included) have this kit and when we get round to building them we will be completely plagiarising some of your work.
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hi John,
I too have often seen these kits for sale at silly money, however I had always assumed that the work needed on an old monogram kit to make a good end result would not be worth the effort. Happily your proving me wrong - Andy
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Hi Gents,
Thanks for the tips and encouragement, as for my building speed I either need to learn to build quicker or by less!
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Great conversion. I really like the seats and the rear lights look spot on
Alpine A110
in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Posted
Hi John, thanks for the encouragement and especially the tip. Knowing these little things can make a huge difference to the finished model and my sanity