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KeithR

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About KeithR

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  1. That's good to know that Alclad works on XF-1. I've another of the same kit to do in a similar scheme but with the round nose so it'll make an interesting comparison.
  2. This is my Special Hobby Gnat F.1 XN326 RAE Farnborough 1959. The RAF didn’t adopt the F.1, but it saw service overseas with the Indian and Finnish Air Forces in particular. The twin seat derivative was adopted by the RAF as the, by then, Hawker Siddeley Gnat T.1 which became famous as the Red Arrows’ first aircraft type. This was an early trials/demo aircraft and as such I didn’t weather it as I figured it would have been kept fairly clean. I finished it in semi-gloss varnish as I figured the real thing would have been slightly glossy.
  3. It’s finished! Only a few WiP pics I’m afraid. Empennage on and being aligned using Lego. Marvellous stuff. I filled the joints using super-fine white Milliput and touched up with Mr Surfacer. I then primed using Alclad black primer with microfiller. It came out a bit bobbly rather like orange peel. I think I’ll stick with Tamiya XF-1 for priming in the future. The undersurface on the real thing was High Speed Silver I believe. I used Alclad (ALC-101 Aluminium) for the first time and not withstanding the primer problem w
  4. I’ve made a start on the Gnat with the cockpit:- I’ve found that you have to be careful with part 03 to glue it carefully in the pocket in the cockpit side wall. The lower and back edges must be aligned with the pocket edges. See arrows:- The reason is that the rear bulkhead is sandwiched tightly between part 03 and the nose undercarriage bay part 31 which can’t be adjusted too much. I glued part 31 into the fuselage half with the cockpit interior and the other fuselage half both in place but not glued. After it dried I then glued the cockpit
  5. Hi Mark, That's just what I wanted to know. I'd spotted them and was about to give them a try. Thanks and best regards, Keith.
  6. I’ve decided after building two Airfix kits in succession (Spitfire and P-40) that I would branch out and build my first Special Hobby kit. It’s the 1/72 scale Folland Gnat F Mk.I “British Single Seaters” No. SH 72322:- These are the options in the kit:- I’m not sure that any other than the grey/green camouflaged versions actually flew. Perhaps there are some experts out there in Britmodellerland who could confirm or disprove that. In any case, I’ve decided to go with the kit option of XN326 with the pointy radar nose. It’s not quite
  7. Thanks Michael, that's worked perfectly. Thanks @russ c. Much appreciated. Happy modelling, Keith.
  8. That's superb Roger, and an inspiration. What sort of optical devices do you use to create such microscopic detail? Is there any chance you could get a few of your models out of their boxes in the loft and photograph them, I would love to see more of your work. Regards, Keith.
  9. Many thanks for your kind comments @Jeddahbill, @Farmerboy, @2996 Victor, @SAT69, @ColinChipmunkfan, @Vinnie and @swralph. It’s much appreciated and very encouraging. Thanks Dave. I’ve got a cheapo set of lenses a bit like an Optivisor but found them a bit uncomfortable and the optical quality perhaps isn’t what it should be. I use a prescription pair of glasses for general close work. For really close work I put a pair of +2.5 dioptre reading glasses on top of them. Do you wear reading glasses under the Optivisor? Any tips for which lens power to get?
  10. Many thanks for your kind comments and encouragement everyone. I've put some pictures of the finished model in Ready for Inspection here:- Cheers, Keith.
  11. Here is my Airfix Curtiss Tomahawk IIB in 1/72nd scale. This particular aircraft, GA-F, was flown by P.O. Neville Duke with 112 Sq, Fort Maddalena, Libya in 1941. The Airfix kit box art:- The following items were used:- Kit is Airfix starter set A55101. Kit Decals used. MRP lacquer paints for main camouflage. Tamiya paints for primer et.al. Rub ’n Buff metal paste for the exhausts. Quickboost resin propellor set QB 72 364. SBS resin exhausts 72039. Scratch-built bullet-proof screen and gunsi
  12. Thanks Steve, much appreciated. I glued the bullet proof screen to the inside of the canopy with white glue. Specifically, Formula 560 Canopy Glue. When you glue items to clear parts the glue effectively becomes part of the part and is highly visible. I used the tiniest, tiniest blob of glue on each corner of the bullet proof screen and let it dry a bit before attaching it. This was so it didn’t wick between the two parts and stand out too much. I used a bit more on the bottom where it’s harder to see. I can see it if I look very closely but its good enough for
  13. FINISHED! Yippee! A few progress pictures first. The canopy masking looks pretty ropey up close. Cameras are very unforgiving! In future I won’t try cutting the tape in situ. My hand-eye coordination isn’t good enough to cut freehand without wandering and it’s very difficult to estimate where the edge of the frames are when the canopy is a bit blobby as this one is. I’ll use little strips applied separately for my next one. Here I’ve sprayed a couple of coats of Tamiya Flat Clear XF-86 thinned with about equal amounts of Mr Lev
  14. I’ve finally got back to some modelling, hurrah! Here are some progress photos. I primed with Tamiya XF-1 matt black diluted with Mr Color Leveling Thinner 400 at about 50/50 by eye. It sprays better than Tamiya’s X-20 thinner IMO. The only issue is that its cellulose (lacquer) based so it smells awful. I’ve used MRP acrylic lacquer paints to spray the camo:- MRP-108 Dark earth BS 450 WWII RAF. MRP-121 Middle Stone WWII RAF. MRP119 Azure Blue WWII RAF. They spray very nicely indeed and don’t need thinning. They do pong, however as they ar
  15. Thanks for your kind comment @TheyJammedKenny! but I had no intention of giving the impression of my being a newbie. It's rather that I'm very out of practice. I've made only two models in the last twenty-odd years, both Spitfires, but prior to that I did do the occasional build. I currently have 24 built models, some dangling from the ceiling, made over a period of about 50 years or so from schooldays to now. Previously to those, in my extreme youth I made quite a few models, but those have long gone. One day I might dust off some of the survivors and post some pictures. N
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