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Redboost

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Everything posted by Redboost

  1. Agree. That's the same with the Spitfire I-V kits, just imagine how nice the world would be, if they have played with the masters and moulds litttle bit longer... I struggled once with the early Spitfire I and I'm not gonna to repeat it. And they announced the Spit IX, Mk.21/22/46 etc. OMG!
  2. The AZ guy told me, personally... He stupidly tells his stories to a broad audience at hobby shows etc. I dont care that much about the rip off, but what really bother me is poor quality of his kits with no sings of improvement... That unfortunately the case with the Mk IV, too.
  3. Don't want to pick up on you, but it is not typicial "czech" but "AZ" limited run kit; fortunately, a typical czech limited run kit is far better. This is just pirated mix of revell, hase and airfix kits mastered in hurrry and quickly sell to hannants to feed their "pre-orders. Unfortunately, there are still hundreds of people out ther who buy this s**t and support this 'robbery'.
  4. Thanks gents! Dogsbody: sorry, this time no article . The collector rings were prepainted in Alclad II Duraluminium and then oversprayed with several thin coats of black/brown mix to imitate the burnt metal.
  5. hey folks, my latest... the hasegawa kit with some aftermarkets from eduard, quickboost and pd decals. V8447 from 89.squadron, north africa 1943. I'm aware there are certain issues about the camouflage and marking, but i could't resits havin in my collection the Shipard/Oxby mount. cheers Libor
  6. Jazzy, all three colors are from Gunze Aqueous range, H72 Dark Earth, H73 Dark Green and H74 Sky lightened with little Off-white H21 for scale effect. The matt varnish is from Gunze Mr.Color range, No. 187 Super Clear UV Cut Flat.
  7. Thanks everyone for comments! Patrick, the roundels are weathered too, but the lights I use are quite strong (2 x 150W) and usually kill everything white. Lightningboy2000: I use Griffon etched lights which are "glazed" with a regular self-adhesive clear tape that is glued over the leading edge and cut closely around the light aperture with scalpel blade.
  8. Hello, this is my contribution to the recent Battle of Britain anniversary, the Hurricane Mk.I of 310. (Czechoslovak) squadron, Duxford, early September 1940. The P3143 was the most successful Hurricane of all Czechoslovak squadrons in WWII ever, having scored seven victories. The Hasegawa kit was upgraded with KMC resin cockpit, Falcon canopy, Aires wheels and Quickboost gun sight; the decals come from Kagero Topcolors Battle of Britain Part 2 book. Cheers Libor
  9. Thanks for nice comments chaps! To Alex: yes, I did, I made few passes with my tool according to 'riveting drawing' I found in my references. The rigging is done from black fishing tie wire 0.05mm thick.
  10. Hello, recently built out of the box. A build article features the latest issue of MAI. Cheers, Libor
  11. Hi, this is new CMR kit built for a future edition of MAI. Cheers, Libor
  12. Hi all, this is Academy kit built OOB with the exception of Quickboost engine and undecarriage covers. Marking for Ronnie Hay's personal machine comes from Skymodel sheet. He led 47.NFW during attacks on Car Nicobar and Sumatra oil refineries and scored 2 x Ki-43 a 2 x Ki-44. Cheers Libor
  13. Just FYI, DP Casper produces a decal sheet dedicated to Operation Pedastal, but I'm not sure if it's available in the UK. DP Casper
  14. Hello, this is Heller kit, partially rescribed and upgraded with aftermarket engine, propeller, Airwaves etched, Pavla Model decals and some home-made items. The kit is finished in pre-war 87.sq. marking using Alclad II and Gunze H paints. Cheers Libor
  15. Hi, this is old MPM kit finished a while ago. It has some inaccuracies, but I built it almost OOB just to complete my 1/72 one-o-nine collection. Cheers Libor
  16. Finally, some progress down here - filled the fuselage, cut out the flaps and the aperture for the radiator in the wing and added the wheel well inserts.
  17. Eventually, I reworked the rear cockpit compartment and attached most of the etched fiddly bits. Now onto the painting...
  18. Thanks chaps! Yes, there is lot of clean up to do, but this is only prelude to the surgery that's coming on... Anyway, I primed the resin parts and cut off the front part of radiator body, because the air bubbles completely destroyed its edges. This will be later on replaced with plasticards. Despite original thoughts I'm going to use Part etched set inteded for the Hasegawa MS-406. I seems that it can be very useable with only little modifications.
  19. For this GB I'll be building Směr (ex-Heller) kit with PH Model conversion; I'm starting off with the general introduction of the kit and conversion parts.
  20. Hi chaps, I'll be tempting my fate with 1/72 Mörko-Morane conversion, I'll open my entry in due course
  21. Thanks to everyone! Upnorth: maybe, I think about organizing Royal Air Force SIG table - in that case I would bring my models too. alex: I use black fishing tie wire 0.05mm thick secured with CA glue in pre-drilled holes. The wire is perfectly elastic, so no need for heat tensioning. Cheers Libor
  22. Hi Deon, I highlight the recessed panel lines with oil paints mixed to fit the camouflage colors, usualy black/brown, black/grey etc. I work with MiG Production stuff, i.e. Abteilung 502 oil paints with original (red) thinner or pre-mixed oil wash. Cheers Libor
  23. Hello Julien, yes, it is the CMR (Czech Master Resin) kit. Cheers Libor
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