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Fletch0311

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Posts posted by Fletch0311

  1. 15 minutes ago, Dads203 said:

    PJ Productions do a nice US Navy pilot for the period, if using two then you might need to modify one as they only do the one figure so one pose. 
     

    Hannants used to sell PJ stuff. 

     

     

    Thanks 😁 will have a look

     

  2. 50 minutes ago, Stephen said:

    The Aerobonus pilots are using the GRU-7 ejection seat which was fitted to the F-14A&B . The F-14D uses the NACES ejection seat. Aerobonus have an F/A-18E/F pilot which would fit the bill if you used a pair of them. 

     

    That's a good shout about the Aerononus F/A-18 ones 👍🏼😁

    Thanks 

  3. 58 minutes ago, spruecutter96 said:

    Hi. 

     

    I appreciate that it will be an expensive option, but Hasegawa have marketed a 1/48th US Navy (1970-1980's era) pilots and deck-crew set. This might be overkill for what you want, but it also gives you the option to do a full diorama. 

     

    Reedoak produce some superb, 3-D printed pilot figures, but cheap they are not. 

     

    Hope this helps. 

     

    Chris.  

     

     

    Thanks 

     

    I'll have a look at those options.

    😁

  4. I'm about to start my AMK 1/48 scale F14D....decided to do some jiggery-pokery and display in flight mode....however, the AMK doesn't come with pilots.

     

    After (not very long) searching online I've come up trumps with pilots that fit this kit, however there are a few that could fit the bill; US Navy pilots (Zoukie Mura Phantom) sitting/no seats, or Aerobonus F14a/b variants with seats. 

     

    My question is; has anyone else used pilots with this kit? And what did you do? I'm not too bothered about precise level detail as once painted and in the cockpit the untrained eye won't be able to tell if there's a pocket missing here or an extra helmet screw there....just interested how you went about it.

     

    And I don't have a 3D printer so that's not an option.

     

    Cheers all 😁

     

  5. Hi fellow modelers....

     

    I am returning to the hobby after a short hiatus due to moving house (plus a multitude of other 'getting-in-the-way' factors) but I am now starting to get my set-up sorted.

     

    I now have a study/office that I am earmarking for my model building antics and since moving in to the new home I'm considering an airbrush Spray Booth, a cheapy one, nothing too fancy but one I can pack away after using. For reference, I think I'm going to get a Bartsharp one with the extractor hose and letter box shaped connection that slots in to an open window. 

     

    My query is; during the colder months I'm not doing to want to sit there with the window open to have the extractor hose end pointed to the outside.....is it possible to configure the extract through the plasterboard wall? Or does it need to extract all the way to outside? I tend to use acrylics 95% of the time. 

     

    I'm not an expert in buildings but maybe someone else has done something similar?? It's a new house so has plaster board walls with breeze blocks behind. I was thinking of making a letter box shaped hole to fit the extractor end connection, or circular shaped and just using the extract hose.....what could I use to 'bung' it afterwards? Or is there a wall connection I could use?

     

    Thanks for any advice 

     

    Fletch

    😁

     

     

  6. 16 hours ago, gunpowder17 said:

    I hope there will be one , it looks great. When they announced Pattinson was the new batman i really groaned , but from the trailers , he looks great.

     

    I hope they're not just showing the best bits in the trailer.....but agree I think he's going to be great in it.

     

     

  7. 17 hours ago, FG2Si said:

    I believe Bandai may be coming out with one but in 1/35. There's no pics or details listed yet. They're re-issuing the Burton Batmobile and the Tumbler at the same time. 

     

    Carl

     

    Yes I did see Bandai were rereleasing the Tumbler, should be a decent build if from Bandai. Fingers crossed for the new one as well. 

     

    Thanks

  8. Evening All 👋

     

    Has anybody heard anything about a kit of the new batmobile from the forthcoming The Batman movie? With a few months left to go until the film is released there seems to be toys being announced (lego 'new' batmobile, for instance) but nothing yet that I can see on model kits. It seems to be being dubbed Batmobile Muscle Car. 

     

    Of recent times Moebius has had the rights for these but there's no news on their site so far.

     

    I'm crossing my fingers for Round2/AMT to release one.

     

     

  9. I agree, it is a hefty price but I'd be willing to pay it if the book offered step by step techniques on how to arrive at an end result, which from what you all say is that it doesn't quite do that. Maybe a used one will pop up on ebay at some point, fingers 🤞🏼 

     

    Thanks everyone 😁

    • Thanks 1
  10. Thanks Jack

     

    I've been a modeller for most of my life (on and off) and I'm 'okay' with figure modelling....I want to learn more about lots of aspects to make my models pop. Shading and forced lighting effects in particular is something I definitely want to improve.

     

    I'll check the video out - thanks for sharing it.

     

    😁👍🏼

  11. On 04/08/2021 at 18:58, Oompa Loompa modelers said:

     

    Hi Fletch, thank you again for your kind advice.

    That’s a smashing snowspeeder, looks like it jumped off the screen from Hoth; I’ve also got a snowspeeder in the stash, though it’s the Bandai one, but now that I’ve seen it done, I think the Revell one looks very good as well. I’ve never tried sponge chipping before; I usually do the hairspray method but I might try it some time, your results are really good. I didn’t know about highlighting chipped areas or joining chips before, it seems interesting, so I’ll give it a closer look. I have some AK weathering pencils too, I like to scrape of the tip of the pencil with a knife and then use the shavings as pigments, though I do have pigments from other brands; I haven’t used them for streaking yet.                                                                                                                                                                                   

     

     

    No worries, always nice to share tips etc.

     

    I have the Bandai snowspeeder too but it's in the stash, the Revell one is smaller and quite cheap (£6) and an easier build overall bit lacks detail. The Bandai one has positionable flaps and better cockpit details.....can't wait to make it! 

     

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  12. On 01/08/2021 at 20:09, Oompa Loompa modelers said:

     

    the chipping allows you to see the metal body of the machine and it gives a really nice effect. What metallic paint did you use?

     

     

    I use a lot of Vallejo Air paints, the sponge chipping was done with a dark grey and then on corners and edges that have the most damage I use a tiny bit of Vallejo Air Aluminium with a small brush and accent it slightly. You can also use a just off-white grey (grey in this case, or lighter colour of the main body colour if something else) and very lightly run a thin line in a semi circle on the edge of a chip....this highlights it and makes it 'pop' for a little more depth. Below is a cheap Revell kit I did about a year ago that I used for some experimentation - some of the chips are slightly highlighted....I also used AK weathering pencils to blur and streak some chips as if damaged in battle etc. 

     

     

    spacer.png

     

     

    Another neat trick is to 'join' chips together using a thin paintbrush and the same colour paint used for the chips (definitely a less is more approach on this one) - it gives a more cracked appearance and makes damage look like its been there some time.

     

    Hope it's of some help, good luck with your builds 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  13. This is really good. I wish I was that good at 14.....you're going to go far! 

     

    Appreciate you have said you prefer cleaner weathering but if I may offer some small advice...look up chipping effects, like sponge chipping, it's really simple and easy to do and adds an extra dimension to models like these. You don't have to go mad with it either....less is more, but concentrate chipping on areas where there is likely to be contact with something, i.e. around the feet, the joints and where areas move or rub and even on edges where panels join - it'll add an aspect of realism.

     

    Below are some work in progress shots for a kit I made for a friend, so it's not finished, but you can see the effect of chipping around the edges and on panels themselves.

     

    Well done and keep up the good work 💪🏼

     

    spacer.pngspacer.png

    • Thanks 1
  14. 5 minutes ago, Rob Henderson said:

    I guess they're using a similar process to the Gundam figures...plus it potentially opens the hobby up to a greater range of customers if they're able to keep a playability element in the mix once the build is complete.

     

    Yeah I suppose. It's the same with them supplying stickers and decals so you can use what you're comfortable with dependent on your age/ability 

     

     

    • Like 1
  15. 27 minutes ago, Rob Henderson said:

    Cheers Fletch! It's showing its age with the details now, but back in the day I'm pretty sure this kit was the only option out there!

    I've not added any Bandai kits to the stash so far, but I've heard a lot of very positive comments about them 😎

     

    Bandai kits are in a class of their own, they're so well engineered. And the detail on them is amazing.

     

    My only gripe with Bandai is most of their Star Wars figures/characters are quite toy-figure looking when complete.....they have noticeable joins where they have gone for articulation over a just supplying a final pose so you see the joins in the elbows and knees etc.

     

    They're vehicles and spaceships are incredible though 

    • Like 1
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