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David H

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Everything posted by David H

  1. This is just me, but if i were building the kit with no intention of making the canopy removable, i'd probably splurge on a pair of nice resin ejection seats for the pilots and call it good. And given the size of the cockpit windows, even that would be overkill! Money spent on resin wheels and (maybe) photoetched blade aerials, etc. would be a wiser investment. The HP Victor might be a different story.....
  2. <said in Christopher Walken voice> Hello, Kids. Are you seated comfortably? Then i'll begin..... Today, we complete the somewhat haphazard approach to painting the back end, and i assemble and paint the first Afterburner nozzle. One of my first discoveries, is that choosing to use an undercoat- or not- will have an effect on the appearance and tone of the subsequent bare metal finish. The lighter section, the tailplane cradle, was painted long ago. It was merely Tamiya LP applied over the bare, but sanded plastic. We turn next to the assembly and painting of Nozzle number one. In terms of the engineering and fit....Woww! Having built up the first one, the toughest part i'd say is carefully cutting the nozzle segments off the sprue and cleaning them up. The attachment of the sprue lands are at some kooky angles; using a sprue cutters is a bit clumsy. In my case, i carefully cut each sprue land using a JLC saw, clipping away sprue as i went along, in order to get it out of the way. The mating surfaces need minimal cleanup. After the insides are painted, they slot into place. It helps to use small pieces of Tamiya tape on the outside to hold each segment in place (there are 6), as you insert them. Once the last two pieces are inserted, they don't need tape. The last insert is a snap fit, holding all the other segments in place correctly. Once they were all butted against the front of the Afterburner can, i applied liquid cement to the joints. After drying overnite, i wet sanded the outside using a wet 1000 grit sponge, and painted the flaps with Model Master Metalizer, non buffing burnt iron. Next, i applied masks to the burnt iron segments in between the nozzle flaps. These came from New Ware Models. When this was done, the can exterior was painted overall with Tamiya LP-61, Metallic Grey. The masks were then removed, and i drybrushed the nozzle flaps with Metalizer Dark Anodonic Grey (Buffing). After that, i applied a wash of Tamiya Flat Black thinned with water. I applied this to the inside of the nozzle flaps as well. Finally, i tried drybrushing again with a couple of different shades of Metalizer. However, in the end the only colour that seemed to work was the Dark Anodonic Grey (again). I'll let the photographs here speak for themselves. I've installed the tailplane solely for illustrative purposes..... because it looks cool. With the painting of the afterburner nozzles worked out, i can turn to the painting of nozzle number two, and that will almost do it for the back end of the LOVEBUG. As Lee likes to say, Keep your knots up and your powder dry.
  3. I see that you too had interference issues between the instrument panel coaming and the inside of the windscreen. It's fixable but seriously?? I can't believe Airfix bungled something like that. Nice to know it wasn't just me. Aside from that Mrs. Archduke Ferdinand, how did you like the rest of the play?
  4. EDIT: I finally got my hands on a new Airfix Buccaneer but in the interim i got impatient, so i picked up a Shelf-of-Doom exile from Brian Scott (F104nut) and got pretty far along with this... Will probably not do another Buccaneer build thread, but it's a cracking fun build once you learn how to go about fitting it together. -d-
  5. You can do a lot with em, if you're not all that picky about paint schemes.
  6. We now return to the engine nacelles, already in progress. After the intakes were re attached and cleaned up and all the surface detail was restored, i primed them. I masked off the hot section of one nacelle, and i applied a base coat of Tamiya white surface primer. When dry, i sanded it with a 3000 grit Tamiya sanding sponge and then i applied a coat of Mr Color Super White. When this was dry, i found particulates had landed on the paint while it was drying, so i carefully wet sanded the finish with wet 4000 micro mesh, and then i added a final coat of Mr Color Insignia white, which i summarily carpet bombed with Mr Leveling Thinner. Then i left this to set up and outgas overnite. I masked off the separation along the longitudinal panel lines using my preferred method of noodles made from Elmers Adhesive Tack, then i applied my custom mixed light gull grey, and finally i masked off and painted the outside only of the intake lip with Mr Color Insignia Red. With the main colours blocked in, i removed the masking from the hot section. I masked along the panel lines from the other side, and wet sanded all the green primer off. I then applied a coat of Tamiya Acrylic semigloss black, as an undercoat for the bare metal. Hasegawa recommends using Burnt Iron for the high temp stainless steel region. I sprayed on Metalizer Non-Buffing Burnt Iron, and i didn't like it. Way too dark. I re-masked and sprayed on a 50-50 mix of Tamiya LP-11 Silver and LP-61 Metallic Grey, which went onto the model nicely and IMHO looked a lot better. Here's the final result... The locating pins will be replaced with brass rod, to make a much more rigid installation capable of taking side loads. There are a couple of places that require some minor paint touchups, but my curiosity has been satisfied. Mainly, to see how all the colours looked juxtaposed onto the model. Most of my ideas worked. With that done, its time to get ready to mount the wing to the fuselage. Then at some point i'll paint up the other engine nacelle. Until next time, kids...
  7. And now, we turn to the subject of Day Glo. Originally implemented by the Navy and Air Force in the late 1950s, its primary intent was to reduce the chance of mid air collisions. These markings were largely (if not always) implemented on aircraft associated with testing (to help with ground and air-to-air photography), and with training (student drivers- do the math). VH-123, the "Pros" had several A3D-1 aircraft assigned to training roles and they carried rather visible markings. Whether they were truly fluorescent or not kind of depends on the individual aircraft and the age/weathering/deterioration of the special orange paint. Looking at good quality photos of my subject aircraft, it was hard to determine if the paint at one time was truly fluorescent, but it did look orange and showed signs of extreme fading with the white base coat plainly visible in patches. The lucky test subject to re-learn a technique i hadn't done since the '80s are the horizontal tailplanes. Our Story Begins... First of all, the leading and trailing edges were sprayed with silver to inspect for and eradicate mold parting lines. The stabs were then sanded overall with 1000 grit Tamiya sanding sponges, and then primed with my custom mix of Tamiya White surface primer, tinted with yellow green. The next step was to spray the tailplanes overall with flat white and finish with a coat of gloss white. Again, the surface was carefully sanded with wet 4000 grit. The elevators were then masked off and the undersides were painted with Mr Color H59 Orange, straight from the bottle. In the photos the undersides of the tailplanes and wings *were* painted with Day Glo, or something, and since sun exposure is minimal there was no need to "treat" the paint. Next up, the upper surfaces. I wanted to depict seriously faded, but not entirely bleached-out colours. From discussions with friends, it seems the progression is first the fluorescence would go, leaving the orange behind. Next, the orange would start to go turning first into a light yellow with the white undercoat showing through, ending in almost all traces of yellow gone, leaving the white undercoat behind. So.. first step was to get some orange onto the surface. I wanted Orange to definitely be on the model, but unlike MAC and Lancome, i was not going for 100% flawless coverage. Just get some Orange on the surface. Next, i carefully went back and sprayed more orange along select panel lines, since for some reason it seems to wear off in those places last... The next step was i applied Tamiya X6 Orange in the center of the major skin panels and expanded carefully outward on a hazy, marbled, random pattern. Actually i think i could have skipped this step since the X6 didn't seem to change the underlying orange all that much. The next step was to try again with yellow. In this case Tamiya Flat XF-3 yellow, heavily thinned and again carefully applied in the middle of each skin panel and working progressively outward. I think i'm satisfied with the end result. Popped the tailplanes in, and here's what you get... And then, half an hour after i took these photos, as an afterthought i applied corogard to the leading edges. D'Oh!! So endeth the lesson on Day Glo Orange. Tune in next time, when i begin painting the engine nacelles. i think. Oh, and uh.... FLY NAVY.
  8. Oh my Richard. That's Brilliant! To paraphrase Eric "Winkle" Brown: Two whopping great engines, hotly pursued by an aeroplane.
  9. Einar, is there something amiss with the kit windscreen, should i choose to droop the nose slightly for takeoff position? I can't remember. -d-
  10. Well, this weekend i buckled down and tended to some tedious detail painting. Partly, striking off some small details that Tamiya plants as "Easter Eggs" in the assembly steps- Inboard flaps, fuel dump tubes, inboard flap edges, etc. And that bugaboo that all Phantom modelers must contend with: What McDonnell called the "Expansion Surface", but what is colloquially known in the trade as the "Grasshopper Butt" Some people go nuts with all sort of exotic metallic paint products and shades, but for me this is a region more meant to be endured than enjoyed. Since this was my first Tamiya F-4B build, and since their recommended paint mixes are often as spot on as they're way off i thought i'd try their recommended colours for the bare metal regions. Only difference being that i used the LP colour equivalents to the X and XF colour callouts. The Tamiya LP metallic paints so far have worked well. Some colours have a little bit of a "grain" to them, but LP-11 silver is not one of them. Like with most metallic finishes i've used. Single action internal mix Badger airbrushes don't like them, but they shoot through a dual action Iwata just fine. The grasshopper butt was primed with Tamiya Semigloss Black acrylic as a base coat and since it was thinned with MLT, there were no apparent compatibility problems with laying the Tamiya lacquers over them. No issues with lifting so far, either. In case you forgot, The tailplane and cradle/bearing structure was painted a while back.... And at some point, i'm gonna have to ruin all that meticulous masking and paintwork with boatloads of exhaust soot. Life is unfair.
  11. Finishing up the engine nacelles. The intake "Bullets" are the one part of the Hasegawa kit that just don't look right. The actual bullet has an ogival profile. The Hasegawa ones have a straight, minimally tapered shape, looking more like a narrow thimble. Fortunately, Tom noticed this... Now, there is a serious amount of material which needs to be removed to re-shape these things. The struts on the back end get in the way, and make the bullet hard to handle with fingers while filing and sanding on it. When i did up *my* bullet to match, i bored out a small hole in the mounting locator/boss on the back side and friction fit a length of stainless steel tubing to serve as a spindle while i rotated and filed on the bullet. Takes a while to get it to the proper shape, but in my opinion its worth the effort. Sharp-eyed viewers will note that i sawed the engine inlets off the nacelle at the vertical bulkhead line. I didn't have much choice, since i had to fill the seams on the insides where the halves come together. After gluing the halves together, i slopped grey Tamiya liquid surface primer on the joints, and when dry, i sanded the seams using 320, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a brass tube, slightly smaller than the inlet diameter. Once i removed as much filler as i could, i primed the interior with Tamiya white surface primer, and finished with a coat of Mr Color Super White. The hardest part was masking off the red intake lips. They're pretty good, but not perfect. As you can see here....overspray city. So, entering the homestretch, here's what we have... This is actually the starboard inlet, not the port but the build progression is the same.... So, when the mismatch is leveled out and all the overspray is removed, we get something like this... Now there will be some work to restore missing panel line detail and double check all the joints and seams, but this constitutes the last of the "Heavy Lifting" for the A3D. Now, its just a matter of bringing the sub assemblies together. Until next time.....
  12. Well, the stresses will be concentrated most on the centerline, so vertical posts located there would probably be the most effective. Locating them close to the engines could lead to interference problems with the intake trunking or the exhausts. -d-
  13. Randolph, speaking from first-hand experience, the Nautilus Models fuselage interior bulkhead set is really a must, to beef up the internals and prevent the fuselage from bowing inward like a Revell Germany kit box. Secondly, the assembled wing is very thin in cross section. In fact, TOO thin to accommodate the leading edge droops and trailing edge flaps in the "up" position. Unless you are depicting a Vigilante on the catapult, ready to launch, RA-5s were parked with the flaps and leading edge droops "up". So what this means is, you need to shim the upper and lower halves of the wings enough to allow the droops and flaps to nest in the leading and trailing edges. I also agree that the cutting edge resin correction doesn't do a damn thing. Hope that helps. Forewarned is forearmed. david
  14. Being that it's an Australian programme, you'll have to take it up with them. -d-
  15. Nice Job! a very fetching paint scheme, indeed. Did the same markings, eons ago with a Fujimi kit.
  16. i just forwarded this thread to my friend Tony, who is a model builder and works in Experimental Flight Test at Gulfstream. -d-
  17. My word, Mike. I don't know how i overlooked this one, but it's beautiful! I think i now know which plane i'd like to do in Trans Canada markings.... -d-
  18. Wow, those are beautiful Harry. Looks like Airfix nailed the shapes on that one. The ESCI kit has some nice qualities but when you look at the nose it becomes obvious that something isn't quite right. -d-
  19. Tommy Thomason says he provided both Rareplanes and Hasegawa with working drawings to make the kits from, and both are pretty accurate. The one thing being some confusion on Hasegawa's part about the later-build A3Ds with the Cambered Leading Edge extension. However, its not really noticeable and it would be time consuming to fix. The A3D is a plane that looks a lot nicer in-flight than on the ground. Just don't build the same one as me, okay?
  20. And now.... the engine nacelles. These come in for three major stages of rework, two of which i'll talk about today: 1) Backdating to an A3D-1 standard, 2) Improving the fit of the nacelles to the wings. First off, the Hasegawa kit represents a late-build A3D-2 configuration. Among other things, they had a fillet between the inboard side of the engine pylon and the wing. This needs to be removed. This is the corresponding notch in the lower wing plank, designed to take the fillet.... Because of the somewhat unique shape of the notch, it makes sense to use what's available to fill the gap. To that end, we actually salvage some of the fillet from the inboard side of the engine nacelle. Part of this gets glued into the notch, the excess sawed away and filed flat, and the remaining gaps plugged with sheet styrene and CA. The resulting cavity that comes from sawing the fillet from the pylon needs to be filled, of course. Now, i filled the gaps between pylon and wing, before i filled the cavities in the engine pylon and wing, so things are a little out of sequence here. The other rework is to minimize and close up the gaps between the engine pylon and the lower wing skin. The end goal is to have a joint so tight and clean that the pylons can be installed after painting and decaling, requiring only a trace of white glue to close up the remaining gaps. a piece of bare metal foil is cut and laid on the lower wing plank, where the pylon saddle makes contact. The pylon is then carefully located onto the foil/wing composite, and CA is applied to the 90-degree joint. When dried, the nacelle is carefully cracked free of the wing, the foil is removed, and the CA/resin composite is filed and sanded away with rigid backed sanding sticks. Something of a confession to make here: The first time i did this, the engine pylon wanted to rest perpendicular to the lower wing surfaces, giving the nacelle an odd toed-in look. Consultation of 3 view drawings showed that the nacelle pylons should be perpendicular to the ground, so this first nacelle needed to have the gaps re-worked a bit. Good news is, the re-do was successful. Now admittedly there is some surface detail that will need to be restored, but the "heavy lifting" of this evolution is done. So there you have it. Lesson learned: do one side at a time, rather than both simultaneously, because otherwise you'll make the same stupid mistake twice. Up next: The starboard nacelle. After that, time to re-work the inlets. As always, keep those letters and cards coming.
  21. Minor Update: Got the inboard leading edges done. It's really a lot easier the break the task down into two separate jobs. Not sure if i'll do the intake lips next, or something else. Fly Navy! OOO-Rah!!
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