Six97s
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Posts posted by Six97s
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Revell did a Healey in 1/25 around the same time as their E type - I think both were tooled by the shortlived UK Revell operation? Both have been reissued countless times and the Healey was also reissued by Matchbox.
Revell also had the Cadet series in the early '60s, but in a weird scale (1/42?). There was a PA Cresta, Rover P5, Jag Mk2, TR3, Morris Traveller and a Ford Consul. These are a bit crude by modern standards, but neat period pieces.
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I had a subscription to SA in the '90s, I can't remember if it became too expensive, or the content too repetitive, maybe both. Used to buy the odd copy of FSM around the same time, but like the old Scale Models magazine, there'd only be one or two interesting car related articles per year. I haven't bought magazines in years. The internet made them redundant.
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I've found a few references to the NM being used to tow the Mk6 howitzer and the Long Tom, so that seems most likely. The third post here shows one:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9568
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I had to look up 'Goliath', but going by the photos, it's a 110" double bunk cab. The AMT 352 kit has the more common 86" sleeper cab, so you'll have to stretch it, or buy two and splice them together. No idea what make the trailer is, but in 1/25 you effectively have two choices: the ancient AMT Fruehauf reefer or the almost as ancient Ertl Great Dane. The AMT Fruehauf is easier to find, having been reissued multiple times.
The Snowman KW is a bit easier, but depending on how accurate you want it, could get expensive. It was a 1973 50th anniversary W900 (gold badges rather than the usual red on silver). The AMT W925 will get you most of the way there, with the correct short bonnet and 36" sleeper. However, the AMT cab is pre '73 and has the old style door handles high up on the door, along with the early interior. If you want to be more accurate, use the Revell W900 (not the Aerodyne) cab and interior with the AMT hood and sleeper.
The real truck had KW's torsion bar rear suspension, which was in the first issue of the AMT kit from 1971, but was replaced with a Hendrickson walking beam suspension in all of the subsequent reissues. Auslowe in Australia markets a resin copy of the torsion bar suspension, but it's very fiddly to assemble.
IIRC, the trailer was made by Hobbs, but there have never been any kits of those, so you'll have to start with the aforementioned Fruehauf or Great Dane and either make do or get into some scratchbuilding. The Great Dane was issued as a Smokey and the Bandit tie in way back, but even if you can find one, the decals are probably unusable by now. Hope that helps.
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Nice work. Having been beaten by a couple of Enthusiast kits in my youth, I know how fiddly they are.
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I think the top of the windscreen frame is much too heavy, which isn't helping. There might be some scope to thin that upwards and make the screen appear a bit taller, if there's enough meat on the clear part.
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As you say, different practices in different factories. This thread has some useful detail photos - it's a Daytona, so there are a few a oddball deviations, but most of it applies:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=me6gvsr6tsdeqt85h423uk8tl7&topic=48725.1525
To save a lot of scrolling, here are the most relevant images:
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Outstanding work so far, especially the boot area. You might want to rethink the HT leads though, because that's the starter motor, not the distributor.
The distributor is on the side, between the first and second intake ports:
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Good stuff. Zero Paints do a Highland Green, probably meant for the recent Mustangs, but still closer than anything else.
https://www.hiroboy.com/Ford_Mustang_Dark_Highland_Green_Paint_60ml--product--14995.html
The Mustang looks good with the five spokes. Much better with period 14"/15" wheels than the fugly modern ones.
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3 hours ago, Mark4700 said:
That’s brilliant. I had seen this picture but didn’t realise that you could zoom in so close.
one thing I’m struggling to make my mind up with at the moment is the black strips on the bumpers. On the photo you’ve shared their just on the over riders, and I’ve seen cars from the show where this is the case. But the kit instructions say it’s on the over riders and full width of the bumpers as well. I’ve been using this image https://www.rodauthority.com/news/top-50-tv-cars-of-all-time-no-4-starsky-hutch-ford-gran-tor/ but the resolution isn’t good, and it appears the black strip is full width on this one.
I suppose either way is right as they used more than one car, even in the first series which this kit is based on.
The horizontal rubber strips were part of the bumper protection option, so not all Gran Torinos had them, but it appears at least the early TV S&H ones did. BTW, the car in that link (the first image from the TV show) is a '75, not a '76. On the 1975 cars, the filler panels between the body and bumpers are red, and they had matching "sport" mirrors. The '76 models had chromed mirrors, side trim mouldings on the body and the filler panels were painted silver.
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Nice work. Sounds like you're talking about the compressor bleed valves?
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10 hours ago, Mark4700 said:
The fronts are definitely discs and from the research I’ve done I’m sure the rears were too. The instruction pic is of the front wheels.
Discs front, drums rear. I'd probably stick with the black anyway - looking at photos of the real thing, the discs aren't that visible through the slots.
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Presumably the windows are moulded clear, so just leave them be. Humbrol varnish is horrible stuff and turns yellow with age - avoid at all costs.
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I still fear decals after 40 years of building models. It looks fine to me, especially for a first attempt. Have a look at some Youtube builds, you'll immediately feel better about yours.
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That woodgrain looks great, as does the leather. I think the colour suits it, but have to agree the panel lines tend to draw the eye...
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It's hard to see what's going on in that video, but I found a build/review elsewhere. It seems to me the only part of the clear headlight lenses you should paint is the trim around the outside. There is a separate headlamp part to glue into the body - paint that silver, with a drop of amber for the indicator lamp. The clear lens is then fitted over the painted headlamp bucket.
For the rear lenses, paint the outside as klubman01 suggested. Don't paint the inside, like the guy in the video, otherwise it'll look like the lenses are 3" thick.
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Very nice. Good attempt at getting the correct fnishes on the underside too - so many people seem to paint the chassis rails black, as if they were separate parts. The trans mount should be black though - still have to paint that on my Charger. Bonus points for the Cosmoline effect on the control arms.
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Looks good, black works well on these I seem to remember cursing those intake hoses. There isn't really a "typical" AMT standard because the company changed hands so many times and the current Round 2 range includes reissues of kits originally tooled by MPC, Lindberg and Polar Lights. Some of the '80s and '90s kits hold up well; others date back to the '60s and simplified chassis detail, shared with the promo models of the day. This Olds was originally an MPC kit and it's pretty good by MPC standards...
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Interested to see this progress. The Revell one seems to capture it better than Tamiya, to my eye.
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I was on the right track then.
Thanks for the info, very helpful.
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This photo is in one of my father's childhood books, from the early '50s. I believe the truck in the foreground is an "Indian pattern" 30cwt Chevrolet. Any ideas on the other one? It appears to have a shorter cargo bed and flat front fenders. CMP?
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That's very impressive, especially given the rather ropey looking castings you started with.
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Nice work. I just bought one of these, as well as a RFM Tiger, so I'm bookmarking this thread.
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Looks good, I prefer black to the red. I built the original MPC issue back in the '80s. No major problems as I recall.
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Tamiya Alpine A110 1:24
in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Posted
That's coming together nicely, despite the setbacks. I've never built a Tamiya car kit, let alone heard of metal transfers, so this is all a bit alien to me. I like Mr Bacon's solution.