Six97s
-
Posts
737 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Posts posted by Six97s
-
-
I've bought from the US regularly for the last 20 years or so - not just models, but other purchases as well. It used to be that one was relatively unlucky to get clobbered with import charges, but over the last ten years, that's changed to the point where virtually everything has charges applied. Once the transition period expires, I'd expect the same to apply to EU purchases.
Sadly, it's not the case that they only levy VAT on high value items. I had this one, which I'm sure whoever generated the label had a good laugh about.
-
1
-
-
15 hours ago, Andy J said:
Thanks Keith, the Escort will haunt me forever mate the only build I've ever not completed though i still have it ........maybe one day
I'm determined to build the tracks Keith and even add the duck bills it's just time consuming and pretty boring tbh
You must be talking about that
terrificterrible Esci/Italeri kit? Must be bad if assembling tracks is preferable... -
Three steps forward, two steps back since the last update.
Started adding all the tiny doo-dads to the hull, whereupon I immediately lost three parts to the carpet monster, despite having a wood floor. Replaced the the hatch handle with copper wire and other parts with sheet plastic. I also broke off both of the headlamps, even though one was already drilled and pinned. I did managed to save those, so they'll be refitted when I'm ready to prime it.
Then I had an absolute 'mare with the photoetch grilles, which should have been easy as pie, but didn't fit properly or cooperate in any way, Two went on the floor and my cyano has gone gloopy - thorw in a phone call while I was in the middle of all this - I was not a happy camper. It is what it is... I'll do better next time.
-
6
-
-
The 2.2 litre one was the V8-60, a different design from the standard 3.6 and 3.9 (221ci and 239ci) engines.
The one in the image posted by @Das Abteilung above is the early 21 stud 3.6 engine. The Germans were two or three years behind Ford US in switching to the 24 stud heads, so 1940-41. Later German flatheads had a rear mounted distributor, which was unique to German production, but I've found conflicting information as to when that change was made.
Here's a
pre-war German flathead(edit - reading the thread properly, seems it's probably a wartime French one) but the condition might lead one to think it's been repaiinted:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/german-flathead-v8-identification.812802/
Here's a later German one, with the rear mounted distributor. The remaining paint on the fan and engine mounts looks like a reasonable colour reference.
http://www.brandow.eu/div/29GT/index.html
-
1
-
-
19 hours ago, Das Abteilung said:
This is a preserved one. Said to be the 3600cc engine from the 917. Not sure if the 3900cc engine from the later 997 was appreciably different. All the Ford flathead V8s looked pretty much the same.
Irony is that you could also find this same engine in various 15cwt - 3ton trucks built in the USA, Canada, Australia, South Africa, UK and in every Universal Carrier and the A11 Matilda I tank. Let's not mention the shady deal old Henry made with the Nazi regime in order to keep his German subsidiary in his ownership all through WW2.
That's a small block Chevrolet V8.
This thread has a couple of photos of a German-built Ford flathead: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99271&showall=1
-
Count me in please, I'm enjoying this Panther GB.
-
1
-
-
On 11/11/2020 at 11:19, Bullbasket said:
My knowledge of WW2 trucks is limited, but I can tell you that there are no Matadors in those photos. But that's not to say that your Dad didn't drive one. The cab in the first one looks as if it was based on a bus/coach. The other two photos with vehicles in them look like utilities. I think that the last one is either an Austin or a Hillman.
John.
I'm 99% certain the bus is a Burlingham body, but with the radiator obscured it's hard to say on what chassis. The car is an Austin Eight.
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Mr T said:
Hillman Avengers are quite rare I understand. Our local classic car dealer had one in about five years ago and there were only a handful on the road then. I had a lot of good memories about the seventies (not to say some pretty bad ones), but none about the cars, which never seemed to last long.
My Dad bought an Avenger new and says it was the worst car he's ever had. My wife had one as her first car and it was a rot box... also, one of my sixth form friends had one as his first car, which was found to have cardboard and filler covering a hole in the floor.
We had some rum cars in those days; another friend had a brown MkI Escort estate which was very bouncy and turned out to have no rear dampers.
Back on topic, saw a C-reg Porsche 944 yesterday. Light metallic blue and looked good from a distance, but it was smoking rather a lot.
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, DaveyGair said:
Here you go Simon.
Been busy just putting as many parts together, avoiding the tracks at the moment! The drive sprockets and idlers are not glued on at the moment. I didn't add the clear vision blocks for the driver/co-driver positions until I add a bit of paint around that area, I like how they have done the mudguard area, being added to the lower hull before the upper hull.
I have noted in Six97s's build the fact that there are no bolts around the outside of the transmission hatch so will fill them before painting.
More to come.
Davey.
I got that info on the bolts from a review, and a quick image search seemed to confirm it. However, I noticed on someone else's thread that Dragon also moulded them?
There are definitely none to be seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zguDtwk_Bs
I imagine the thinking behind the recesses for the tool racks was to allow for a thicker, stronger moulding, while appearing closer to scale thickness once installed on the hull.
-
1
-
-
Yesterday's progress. I globbed some Mr Surfacer 500 on the lifting rings and let it puddle slightly to create a weld bead. That was the idea, anyway. It spread a bit too much, so needs some cleanup.
Breech assembled. I'm still planning to leave the hatch open, so at least some of this will be visible.
Also made a start on the hull. The parts fit has been pretty good; the only issues I've found were a gap underneath the gun mount and dry fitting the upper hull shows there'll be a small gap tof fill at the rear. I read that Zvezda added bolt heads around the transmission access hatch that shouldn't be there, so those were filed down and the recesses filled. Wouldn't normally use green stuff, but it's all I have to hand at the moment... there won't be much left when it's sanded back, so I think I'll get away with it.
Finally, the one piece of AM bling.
-
8
-
-
Let's kick off then. I've decided to build it as 521, using the decals in the kit. Obligatory box photo.
Box full of track links, with some tank parts thrown in.
Following the instructions, the turret is assembled first. I had to relieve the clear part a little to allow the two halves of the cupola to meet. The back panel is riddled with ejector pin marks, but I don't think they'll be visible, even with the hatch open.
Detail on the inside, which will never be seen (and more ejector pin marks)...
A review mentioned the lifting rings being a bit wimpy. I don't have spares, so I shall try to build them up with Mr Surfacer.
That's as far as I've got today.
-
8
-
-
I'm building the same kit. I've found a couple of references to the turret being too small. I have no other Panther kits to compare it with, so perhaps someone with another make of kit can supply measurements?
-
On 07/11/2020 at 09:29, Robert Stuart said:
Don't just splash the cash.
If there is something you don't like, or think could be done better, and PE or resin holds the answer ... that is the time to spend the money -
- just keep an eye on your budget, and stick to it (advice I should listen to).Thanks. No, I'm not going to throw money at it, especially as a relative newbie. I think it will benefit from some PE grills, but other than that, it'll be OOB.
Looking forward to getting started tomorrow... I'm going to take some time off work
-
3
-
-
6 hours ago, M3talpig said:
Why do i get the feeling i'm gonna be the last person to finish in this GB ................comin on nicely Stef.
As a latecomer, I haven't even started yet, but there's an outside chance I can get something done before his oil paint dries
Looks good so far. I'm taking notes for my D... not sure how I'll get on with the camo.
-
3
-
-
My first AFV build here, so I'll probably be asking lots of silly questions. Since this kit represents an early production Ausf. D at Kursk, I'll go with that, although I might change the number after more research, because I have a hard time building anything OOB. As @Jasper dog said in his thread, no Zimmerit to worry about either.
I've read that this kit has an undersize turret. Anyone care to comment on that? I don't mind putting in the work to correct it if it's terrible, but if it looks OK in isolation I'm tempted to leave it...
Any thoughts on upgrades? Fruil tracks are out, but I'm open to spending a few pounds on photoetch or decals.
-
7
-
-
16 hours ago, CliffB said:
Magic! Someone had better tell Scalemates
.
Thanks for putting me straight.
There is so much confusion and misinformation on that site...
-
2
-
-
Great, thanks both. I've decided to give the Zvezda Ausf. D a go, so will start a thread. Finishing by January might be a tall order, but I'll do my best.
-
4
-
-
I've just discovered this group build whilst researching Panther kits. Am I too late to join in?
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, davecov said:
On the Amazon item pages it normally says "Item arrives in packaging that reveals what's inside. To hide it, choose Ship in Amazon packaging at checkout."
Dave
I must have missed that, but I'll certainly keep that in mind for future purchases.
As a postscript, the replacement, which was supposed to be sent in Amazon packaging, wasn't and arrived in worse condition than the first.
-
1
-
-
On 29/10/2020 at 10:53, JeroenS said:
Must have been the intern at work there...
Who does that??
How about Amazon, foregoing packaging altogether?
-
1
-
-
31 minutes ago, chrispisme said:
Hi,
I may be misunderstanding the terminology, and it isn’t really a big deal as it’s your model and you can have it however you like, especially if you’re working from reference pictures. But I have to agree with Six97s on the underbody frame arrangement, Chrysler did use a stub frame system that was part of the floor of the car basically making it a “unibody” the side connectors that run lengthwise outboard along the sides of the floor were rocker panels that were formed from the floor into a complex triangle shape giving the unibody portion greater strength, as far as I know the convertible cars were the only ones I’ve ever seen with welded in frame connectors between the front and rear stub frames...again, I may be misunderstanding the terminology or the topic of the conversation completely...I am getting kinda old.
I built my 71 charger converted to a 74 (build thread here somewhere) using my own pictures taken during the rebuild, back in the 80’s. The front stub frames and K member are shown black because I spray painted them during the rebuild, they were originally A dusty gray color.
Exactly. The original finish on the underside was grey (usually) primer and they weren't fussed about applying body colour underneath, so it was limitied to overspray from around the edges. @johnlambert 's recent '69 GTX thread shows this to good effect. Most restored cars are fully covered with the top coat for better rust protection; the image I linked to was more to illustrate the unitised construction than anything. The larger C bodies had a separate front subframe, but A, B and E bodies were all unibody/monocoque construction, so there's no reason to pick out the sub rails or box sections, but if it makes you happy, carry on
.
-
1
-
-
Looking good. Corrections being noted.
-
1
-
-
Hate to be "that guy", but these cars didn't have a separate chassis, so the box sections should be the same colour as the rest. At the factory, the underside was primed, but the only body colour would be overspray from the sills and wheel wells inwards. The only separate parts would be the K member at the front and the trans mount, both satin black.
Restored B body to illustrate:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/dscn0865-640x480-jpg.403370/
-
1
-
-
That's nice. I prefer the '63-'64 grille and tail lamps to the '65.
-
1
-
Anyone posted a kit from UK to Italy?
in Chat
Posted
I send stuff to Italy regularly. I use Royal Mail Int'l Tracked & Signed, never had a problem.