Six97s

Depends on how much you cut it with alcohol - you can easily thin it enough to spray. Some people spray it as a sealer on guitars before the finish coats of lacquer.

Shellac? Sticks to anything and is used as a barrier in other finishes.

It's the movin'est car and I've never lost 'cause It's a real Boss Hoss

I'll have another look when Mr Muscle's finished with it, but it seems to me the headlamps are too high. The top of the lens should be close to level with the side crease, which wraps around and fairs into the top of the grille shell. That fillet is missing on the kit, which has a sharper transition. In profile, the bumper looks about right relative to the side marker and the wheelarch, but the headlamps are definitely high. I have a plan: 1. fill the headlamp holes and reshape the whole headlamp/grille area 2. extend the bottom of the fenders and thin the valance to even out the mismatch 3. make the grill fit the new opening 4. redrill headlamp holes and let in chromed '32 Ford buckets and clear lenses. I think that'll replicate the appearance of the thin chrome rings.

I like the white one. Painting the stripes is definitely the way to go - more convincing with them running into the scoop as someone mentioned earlier.

Hmm...

Prompted by @Mike Dean's thread, I dug out my old Shelby for a once over, then I figured I might as well take it apart (by which time it should meet the 25% rule) and give it a quick refresh. I built this when I was in my teens, from the '80s AMT/Ertl release . Originally brush painted red, it seems to have been sprayed black later - I have no recollection of doing that, but apparently it went well enough that it was stripped, partially dismantled and put away for ~30 years. I knew enough to cut out the rounded inner wings and replace them, but I didn't know at the time that the notches were only on Boss 429s from the shock towers being moved out. It's missing the engine, the stock wheels and I doubt I have the unused stripes in my decal stash, so I guess it will end up a semi-custom GT500.

I can't remember any AMT kit having decals - always used to dry brush them. As it's a recent release, you probably have better tyres than previous issues of this kit... I think my '80s AMT/Ertl one had oversize L60-15s all round. I have a late '70s Matchbox/AMT version in the loft, but I forget which tyres are in that one.

I use Halfords or Holts paint when I'm feeling lazy, which is more often than not. Sometimes I decant it, thin a little with IPA and airbrush it. If you're bothered about it being "factory correct", the Shelby Mustangs were offered in a more limited range of colours than the standard ones: http://mustangattitude.com/mustang/1968shelbyclrpaint.shtml

I was thinking about putting in an order with Fireball Modelworks. I need a few sets of tyres for various things.

Ford Arizona Gold doesn't look far off Sunlit Gold. Lime Gold, I don't know.

LOL, it's a tail dragger. It does look a bit like this though: http://findclassicars.com/uploads/carphotos/original-fastback-wrare-options-original-v8-auto-ps-roof-console-sport-deck-6.jpg I'll have to check the tyres in mine. I have the first issue and they're definitely not tampo printed, probably the older AMT/Ertl Polyglas tyres.

An old favourite of mine. The last one I built was brush painted with Humbrol 19. Looking forward to seeing this progress.

Some useful Boss 302 photos here. https://www.kcclassicauto.com/1969_Ford_Mustang_Boss_302_Rotisserie_Restored-1094-Lg.html

Agree on inflated and optimistic pricing of OOP kits, but by filtering to show only 'sold' items, one can get a reasonable idea of the going rate.

They've left these premises now, but I assure you this is genuine. On the subject of "rude" names, there's a builders' merchant called Cox Long. Their trucks had something like "You've no problems when you're Cox Long" on the doors.

I'm also throwing red primer around. Test fitting the chassis revealed another problem: the fuel tank is now fouling the rear valance, so the chassis is about 0.080" too far forward. The quick and dirty fix would be to lop off the back end of the tank,which would end up hidden by the valance, but as it's also apparently hanging down too far, it'll get sectioned the same amount as the body and the interior. I've roughed in the new wheel arches, but those need a couple more rounds of filling and sanding, and I have to make new lips on the front. I'll probably leave that until I've reworked the side crease (needs to finish higher at the front) and reprofiled the fenders to lose that splayed out effect. The front wheel arches were rasied enough that the original flare is gone. The top of the rear arches is now correct, but the leading edge needs filling in a little. I also made a template of the side window opening on the AMT body, so I could begin to correct the rear quarter windows. A comparison with the kit body. There's still a lot to do to tidy this up, but overall I think the shape looks a bit better.

I love that background, it really sets them off. I think I prefer the gold on white... I'm tempted to get one from Amazon at that price.

That's coming on nicely.

Knowing Miniart, it probably has about 800 parts in 1/35. Imagine a large scale kit from them..

Count me in please. I have a few that would fit in.

Thanks for the heads up on the stance. I'm about to start one of these, swapping the engine for an FE. Some of my references show a saggy rear end on certain '67 - '68s, even in contemporary Ford photos, yet others sit high all round. Looking at the parts, the only thing that leapt out at me was the undersized rear axle - that'll get replaced with a Revell one.

Sees '32 Ford, bids on autopilot...

100-odd views and no replies? I'm up for it, if I'm still around in 2022.

Or... https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/36/AMDB5VC.jpg