Six97s

This probably looks like it's getting worse, but I think it's coming together. I marked some guidelines for rescribing the front end of the fenders. The peak on top was also filed down so it doesn't extend as far forward. The new AMT '67 was used as the reference for all this. After some reshaping of the hood, I realised the only way to fix it is to replace the front completely. It has to curve down to match the fenders and then blend into the grille surround, which wasn't possible without cutting it up. Also, the scoop openings were the wrong shape and too shallow, and the leading edge of the hood didn't extend into them, so I can correct all that too. ]

Looks good to me.

That blue looks good, which paint did you use? I think mine are too dark.

Two today: a BRG V-reg Spitfire and a two tone '58-'60 Ford pickup. The latter was parked in a drive not far away, so I might have a wander tomorrow and see if it's still there.

Two Revell kits from Amazon: a '71 Plymouth GTX and a ''66 Shelby GT350H.

That's exactly what it is. They used the same front end from 1942 to 1947, but due to the war stopping production, most were '46 - '47 models.

An orange Mini on a silver/black V plate (tut) and a black 1966 Mustang coupe.

There are several good photos of that building (sales office) in that thread. Another nice colour photo too. It looks like a dark green-grey to me, but considering all the variables, it's hard to be certain.

It's very old school Monogram, the sump is moulded with the engine halves, not even a separate part. I spent ages researching all the fastener sizes and making a list of 1/8 scale nuts and bolts. Then considered the wiring and it all seemed a bit daunting so I stopped thinking about it.

I have the 1/8 Corvette. It's not terrifically detailed for its size, but you could really go to town on it. That's why mine's still in the box...

Colour image. http://www.saac.com/shelby_american_issues/2016_spring/files/assets/common/page-substrates/page0013.jpg And colour film - from 1:15 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61nSlyJrw_A Here's a thread with clearer shots of the front building. https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=6549.0

More fiddling with this thing... I've ordered some 5/16" brass tube, which will serve as the headlight rings. OD is a little small but the ID is about spot on to accommodate a 7" headlamp. I'm still using a rough disc as a dummy for mocking up, but if I fix the brass tubing in place I'll have a solid reference to finish the fender mods. Something else I learned today: the '65, '66 and '68 Shelby Mustangs had 7" headlamps. The '67 Shelby had 5 3/4" headlamps like the '69 Mustang. I think the AMT '67 Mustang GT shares its clear sprue with the Shelby. If so, one of them is wrong...

Le Mans stripes. https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-13525187779972/lemans.pdf https://justmustangs.com.au/html/paint/paint-codes-shelby-65-70.htm

Spotted this afternoon - asked my wife to get a photo and believe it or not, this is the best one. C-reg Capri, wide (X pack?) arches, twin exhaust in the middle,huge red mudflaps fixed with ugly aluminium brackets. [/

I feel your pain. Masking, decals, anything that can unravel hours of work in an instant - these are my least favourite aspect of the hobby. Fun fact: the stripes weren't the same width from front to back and '68s didn't usually have them, so how accurate do you want it to be? Thanks for the heads up about the lettering. I hadn't even got that far, but I have no intention of attempting to correct it... I'm having enough aggro with the bodywork. Reference for stripes: https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-13525187779972/lemans.pdf

I'm looking at it and imagining the mess I'd have made, trying to work with such fine details.

A black '59 Cadillac hardtop this morning, a white Hillman Super Minx yesterday.

Thanks. The linkage came with it, so I can't take any credit, but it does look better than the moulded-in Revell box on the other one. The blue is Humbrol 14 I think it's a bit dark, but it was expedient. I wouldn't mind a '63 Galaxie... a friend in the US has one, blue on blue. My uncle had a '72 pickup with a 390 - that blew up too and got replaced with a 428.

I guess it was a front office/reception. All the work was done in the hangars.

That is the LAX site at 1901 (senior moment) 6501 W Imperial Highway. The two hangars are still there, but bear little resemblance now. I haven't managed to turn up a colour photo yet. Edit - here's a period photo. I've arrowed the building in question. Also seen here with the hangar in the background.

More progress. I really should have made some solid engine mounts and finished the exhaust hookups first. Rear shocks yet to be fitted. I used Molotow chrome on the 390 valve covers.

The easy option would be to trim off the bumper guards and licence plate frame, then touch in with Molotow. All the cuts are on the underside, so it wouldn't be that noticeable? Edit - bumper guards are in place here, so it depends on exactly which photo(s) you're using for reference. https://i.pinimg.com/originals/dd/b9/b5/ddb9b518a6a1e8e0c9b0fc0efb352c5c.jpg

I've used Molotow chrome on bare plastic, primed parts and painted parts. Not much difference in my experience. Re the '68 kit, I have the original diecast Bullitt version this is based on, and the front end is a bit off. The character line on the front fenders should continue to angle up towards the front, but it flattens out and finishes too low. Consequently the front wheel openings are also too low, by about 1mm. The AMT '67 is better and would be a good reference for correcting it, if you're inclined to do so. That said, it's not horrible and most people probably wouldn't notice...

Some painting done on the '67. PSA: do not by Simoniz acrylic primer - it adheres about as well as that Stynylrez rubbish.

The AMT '66 Galaxie has that setup with individual carb tops, but IIRC it looks a bit skinny and probably wouldn't fit the Mustang anyway. I think the problem you'll have with corrugated materials is they won't conform, nor sag under their own weight. It's laborious, but if I were doing it, I'd sculpt the ducting in two-part epoxy e.g. Milliput, wrap it with fine wire to replicate the wire reinforcement, then give it a few coats of paint.