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Six97s

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Posts posted by Six97s

  1. Moving on to painting always feels like progress!   I sprayed the chassis matt black and picked out the chassis in semi gloss, although the artificial lighting here doesn't show much contrast...  I'll give it some light weathering once the drivetrain is in place.  The splash pan at the front still needs masking and spraying body colour.

     

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    • Like 5
  2. The talk of units reminded me of something.  I used to work for the UK division of a US company supplying plating chemicals.  They would send mixing recipes giving the quantities for solid ingredients in grams per US gallon.  🤨  Everything was rewritten in g/l so the operators would be able to follow it.

    • Like 2
  3. Back again.  The kit has a single exhaust, which is moulded into the chassis.   My first thought was to replace it with the separate dual exhausts from an AMT '49 Ford, but (a) I couldn't face cutting out the moulded-in one and (b) the convertible chassis has an X member to reinforce it, so I'd have to either cut holes in that or hack up the exhaust pipes into multiple pieces.   I decided to add a second pipe to mirror the original one.  I also extended the original tail pipe - I'll trim these later and add tubular tips.  The glare makes the white plastic look thicker than it is... it's not far off the original single pipe.

     

    50conv10-vi.jpg

     

    The pipes at the bottom are from a Revell '32 Ford street rod.  I'm being lazy and pinching the glasspack silencers (or mufflers if you like).

     

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    With the engine in place:

     

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    I've started on the body.  The badges and door handles are gone, and I've inserted some brass tubing to give me a starting point for frenching the headlights.  Ignore the lump on the bonnet - that's scrap sprue that I glued in to fill the hole for the hood ornament.  I've also cut the rear springs from the axle and added lowering blocks.  Here's a mock up.

     

    50conv13-vi.jpg

     

    • Like 5
  4. The Nomad will be reissued some time this year.  I hope they'll ditch the stupid Boyd's wheels and reinstate the ARE Torq Thrust mags... I also hope they didn't ruin the tooling for the Boyd's version; it's only been reissued as a stock version since.

     

    Not much progress to report, but I've done a bit on the interior. Here's the front bench seat (try to control your excitement):

     

    50conv08-vi.jpg

     

    Since I'm following a late '50s mild custom theme, it seemed appropriate to give it tuck and roll upholstery.  I first cut the seat apart to separate the two halves of the seat back from the base.  Then I cut some inserts from a sheet of ribbed polystyrene made for railway modelling (to replicate corrugated roofs).  The reverse side has more subtle ribbing that looks close enough to use for pleats.  The rear seat is moulded in place, which is a pain, but it's too much work to cut it out.   The areas surrounding the pleats will be built up with plastic card and shaped to give the effect of padding.  That's the plan, anyway.

     

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    • Like 5
  5. 4 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

    Nice stash. I spotted the Johan Dodge peeking out there. I keep bidding on the Cruisin' USA kits when they turn up on the bay. But no luck so far.

    I sold off a load of car kits years ago for a wodge of cash. I now wish I hadn't though.

     

    Thanks, I should thin it out though, I keep forgetting what I've got and end up with duplicates.  😬  I'd give the Cruisin' USA releases a miss unless you're really drawn to collecting...  that series had some gates blocked off so they only contain the parts for the box art version. The Riviera lacks the stock grille, bumpers and wheels. 

    • Thanks 1
  6. 1 hour ago, johnlambert said:

     

    A quick mock-up suggests that I've got lucky and the engine just fits the bay.  Also, this is the first look at the painted shell, which I'll leave a couple of days before polishing and detail painting.

     

     

     

    Have you tried it with the radiator in place?   There's a hole under the rad for the front mount to slot into - that's what caused my problem.  With the front mount inserted, the side mount was missing its slot in the inner wing. I could have trimmed the front mount, but the positioning of the front wings and the transaxle also dictates where the wheels end up, and they'd have been too far forward.

     

    Paint looks good.  I'm thinking of silver or something like the light gold they called "pearl".

    • Thanks 1
  7. Not much to show yet on this one.   I've installed the windscreen frame and fitted the front suspension and the splash pans/bumper mounts to the chassis.   The engine had huge holes through the block for a metal axle (replaced with plastic in this boxing), but I'm going to use pins to mount the wheels.  I've filled the holes with sprue offcuts and will carve to shape when it's set.

     

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    • Like 6
  8. On 11/01/2022 at 23:20, Ned said:

    Woo, this triggers some memories.  A Chevy Bel-Air I think, and another that I can't remember. The AMT logo and the shape of the box...

    Was there anything that we didn't build :)

     

    Almost chose that one (if you meant the '51), but memories of the horrible fit between the chassis, body and inner wings put me off. 

     

    stash3-vi.jpg

    • Like 8
  9. Some progress.   This red plastic is hard to photograph, so apologies for the ropey pics.   Here's the engine & gearbox; not bad, but the starter seems to be the wrong side of the flywheel (there's a blob next to the bellhousing but nothing next to the block where it should be), the oil filter is angled instead of pointing straight down and the distributor is another blob. The alternator looks a bit drunk here as well, but that's on me.  I'm not going to lose any sleep over all this, because I might well glue the bonnet shut (see below).

     

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    The instructions would have you assemble the inner wings and bulkhead before fitting to the body.   The alignment is a bit vague, so I dry fitted the bulkhead to the body and then glued the inner wings,using the body as a reference to keep everything square.   I had previously butted the inner wings up to the radiator support, but then found the hole for the side engine mount was too far forward and the tab on the bulkhead was missing the slot in the interior floor.  Fortunately the joints hadn't fully set so I was able to remove the inner wings and start again.

     

    Here's how the engine fits.  With the inner wings fitted, now I can install this subassembly, using the engine and the floor to locate it. The engine isn't fitted permanently, it's only there to align everything.

     

    scirocco08-vi.jpg

     

    And test fitted in the body, with the front mount engaged in the radiator support.

     

    scirocco09-vi.jpg

     

    You'll notice here that there's a huge open space behind the engine. I had a Scirocco (Mk2 GTX) as a daily driver and I can recall barely being able to get onto the idle adjustment on the back of the throttle body - the upper part of the bulkhead extends much further forward and forms a trough under the bonnet vents.  I'm not sure I want to go to the effort of reproducing this, so fixing the bonnet shut would be the easy option.

     

    I've also made a start on the interior - briefly considered a RHD conversion but it's not as simple as moving the binnacle over, it would also involve swapping the instruments and radio around, so more work that I want to get into.

     

    scirocco10-vi.jpg

     

    • Like 9
  10. 45 minutes ago, CliffB said:

     

    That sounds like a plan Ian :thumbsup2:

     

    Is it happens, I'm working on the wheels at the moment and it's reminded me that whilst the chrome will strip off OK, you will be left with a clear (actually slightly yellow), glossy lacquer on the plastic.  This is a base coat used in Matchbox's chroming process.  You can paint onto the lacquer OK (I've just sprayed some Alclad), but it is resistant to poly glues so you will need to lightly sand any surfaces that you're cementing together.  I suspect that this will be the same, regardless of what chemical you use to strip the chrome.

     

    I should also add that my MG is a 'made in China' kit, unlike your original British version, so the chroming may not be identical.  Having said that, I've used oven cleaners  on various makes of kit over the years and they've always worked OK :).

     

    Cheers

     

    Further to that, I sometimes follow up the oven cleaner with a soak in IPA (isopropyl alcohol, not the beer).  Sometimes the clear lacquer is thickly applied and obscures detail, so in those cases I try to remove it all.

     

    Nice to see one of these being built. I wish this series could be reissued.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  11. May as well build both now they're out of storage.  This one has optional parts for a racing version, but I'm sticking with the standard version.   No plans for major mods, other than the bumpers.  It has the US spec 5mph bumpers, so I'll either whittle them down to resemble Euro bumpers, or make new ones.

     

    Box contents:

     

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    Size comparison with the '50 Ford.

     

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    • Like 15
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