DrumBum

Hi Guys, I managed to mis-read the instructions on my KH 1/48 Jaguar build and installed the truck mounts for the main wheels backwards!!!! Stupido..... I emailed the contact above and received a reply the next day with details of cost and payment tranfer options for the 2 replacement sprues I need. In perfect English too. Cheers and good luck

If I could go back in a time machine I would have chosen the GR version. It has a more accurate nose and more opportunity for interesting weapons fit. Thanks for the kind words folks, I have updated the original post to include the Eduard main wheels.

yep, I noticed it late in the build and figured it could be our little secret. Its amazing how these things are overlooked, been staring at reference pics on the net for weeks and didnt notice until the glue had set!

Well when you get around to starting, this video has a great way of putting the flaps together, I found it very helpful.

Ha, I am asking myself why DID I do it with he flaps down. What a pain in the butt that was.

Its not what I would call an easy build, but its totally do-able. I was rather hesitant also bit jumped in and managed to throw it together. The main area of concern is around the engine intakes but glue and putty tend to solve all problems.

Finally complete. An....ok kit. The dramas around the intakes are real and have been discussed before. Eduard ASRAAM, Eduard cockpit, Eduard main wheels, Xtradecals. Scratchbuilt intake covers from Tamiya tape.

Tato Thanks, Yes I saw this yesterday. I even have a friend who lives nearby and can pick it up but I think I have settled on a Hasegawa kit or nothing. I will go ahead with the diorama build starting with the Harrier and keep an eye on A/B Skyhawk kit market and grab one if it becomes available at more reasonable retail pricing but the almost $200 price range for one on Ebay right now is a little beyond my building skill level. cheers

Wow, I have not seen this detailed break down of different sprues issued. Will take a look, thanks. RMP, an Arbus thing, just coincidence. cheers

RMP2 (Airbus pilot?) Thanks for the offer but a "C" nose will still be too long to represent a "B". Also, the only A-4 kit I can find is an E/F which I think has bigger engine intakes so even a nose graft will not be sufficient to present a "B" Cheers

Tato, thanks for the feedback. It sounds to me like I will only consider the Hasegawa kit if I can rake up the courage to spend the insame amount of money..... But your HC "C" looks great, it obviously turns out well in the correct hands. Yep, I have located the resin nose but zero evidence that a "C" can be found to attach it to!!! Or Ebay prices as silly as the B/C version. Do you have a plan as to which mrkings you will be painting the A-4/SHAR combo?

Yes I understand its a little average in fit. I have tracked down a HC "B" on Ebay and it is half the price of a Has kit, but still really expensive. Apart from fit issues, is the cockpit ok and are the surface details reasonable? And does the HC kit include the spine antenna/bulge particular to the Argentine aircraft? regards

big thumbs up from me.

Very nice. And you learn something every day, I didnt realise the Kiwis purchased new scooters in addition to the ex RAN rigs.

I noticed this kit when I was conducting research however I have failed to locate one from the usual online stores. Yep, tracked one down on Ebay but still up around the 100 dollar mark with shipping. I dont know much about the Hobbycraft kit but apparently its....ok? I ventured down this path also but alas cannot find any steel beach skyhawk nose. Now this has me intrigued and its on amazon too. I take it its a "B" nose that can go on a "C" kit? Now just gotta find a "C".......which is proving difficult also. I think its 1 foot and 1 inch difference between the B and C. My plan A was a diorama featuring Sharkey Wards Harrier and the Dagger he shot down although I changed plans when I heard Morgans story of the encounter with the Skyhawk flown by Sanchez and thought this was an even better story. I have the Dagger/Mirage on the way and will build it anyway however failing to secure an A-4B I may just have to revert to plan A. I must say I am finding hobby kits and materials harder to find, possibly related to supply chain issues?

Greetings all, As I continue to purchase the goodies for my Falklands diorama, I have the Kinetic SHAR and associated PE accoutrements and now trying to figure out where to get an A-4B, a short nose Skyhawk. I know Hasegawa do an A-4B and a B/C variant with the additional Argentine comm/nav externals but I cant find any of these for sale. Ebay has several listed in the almost 200 USD mark with shipping from Europe but are these kits really that hard to find? Is there another “B” model Scooter that would fit the bill? Or maybe a resin nose to use with a later version of the A-4? Cheers in advance, any thoughts or suggestions welcomed.

Richard, Yes indeed, as I expected. Thanks v much.

Greetings all. I have recently become inspired to build my first diorama, having recently returned to the hobby after several years away. Last month I spent several hours driving solo on a photo trip through central California listening to various Youtube interviews with Nigel "Sharkey" Ward and David "Mog" Morgan. Very interesting listening about a war I knew very little about. Fast forward several weeks and I have finally tracked down a Kinetic FRS1 and a Kinetic "Dagger" will be arriving soon. My plan is to represent the Sea Harrier flown by Ward and the Dagger he engaged on 21 May, 1982. So far it appears there are not too many photos available online of the FRS1 during the war and already I am running into problems researching the cockpit layout of the SHAR. The kit gives 2 options for the instrumnet panel, one with 2 display screens and one with one screen to the right hand side of the panel. However research has shown that the FRS1 originally had no display screens and then in later years appears to have had a cockpit upgrade to include a single screen. Can anybody shed some light on when this may have occured and did the SHAR have the screen during Operation Corporate? Regards and thanks in advance.

Shin, thanks for your advice re gloss coat. Im guessing too quickly so will slow things down next time. And I forgot to ask, following the completion of the panel wash process, is it best to clean up the surface to remove enamel thinner residue prior to a matt clear coat? Or can the clear coat go straight on. cheers and thanks again

Shin Thanks very much for the input. I have taken another swing at it this morning and have had much better luck by leaving the wash on for abpout 90 minutes. It takes some courage to watch a black sludgy mess dry on a model you have spent over a month building and painting. I found I was totally over using the thinner and have been making one light pass with thinner followed by several passes with a dry cotton bud. Much better. And your issue about panel line depth is interesting. I have started to "up my game" in the last couple of builds and one of my weak areas has been a gloss coat. I have tried several airbrush gloss coats such as Alclad and Mr Hobby GX but find I still get a rather crappy sandpaper finish. So I keep returning to the old Gunze rattle can gloss coat which I suspect is too thick and is filling in panel lines making the wash a little tricky. Cheers and thanks

Hi all, I am using Tamiya Panel Line Accent for the thrid time and still struggling to get an acceptable result. My main issue is the final process of removing excess wash. I have been using minimal AK odorless enamel thinner on a cotton bud but I am still getting an uneven result, some wash remains in panel lines but some is completely removed. Any ideas of why I am getting such an uneven result? Cheers for now

Hi All, I am wrapping up the Revell 1/48 Tornado F3 and have just purchased a set of Eduard IDS Tornado wheels. Are the main wheels for the IDS and ADV the same size? The Eduards have a larger OD and I am wondering if this is because they are for the IDS or is it simply the difference between Revell and Eduard? cheers in advance and apologies if this is in the wrong section.

lovely work especially considering I am almost finished with the Revell F3. Your work around those pesky intakes makes me want to go back and start over. Awesome job. cheers

thanks all for the positive comments. cheers

Thanks folks. Anyone know why the F-16 would be flying with such a badly damaged LH main tire?