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Nenad Ilijic

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Everything posted by Nenad Ilijic

  1. Kit looks great! Still waiting for mine to arrive. Looking forward to following this build. Nenad
  2. Thank you Wayne. Thank you Matt. Well I think you did good by toning it down. How I did it, they would look like after 30 years of merciless abuse Thank you Vytautas. Well looking at your work, you are the master of destruction Your plastic carving is fantastic! And thanks for making a tutorial how to achieve that. Some progress over the weekend. Running gear painted. This time I used Hataka early OD. Need to restock Mr. Color, although I find Mr. Color, Hataka and MRP very similar, the main difference being how much pr
  3. This is one stunning build John! All that details... it is impressive! I missed this WiP but I will have to read it from the beginning. Cheers, Nenad
  4. Hello everyone, So Asuka. I started with suspension. Everything cleaned up. I gave those road wheels a bit more beating than I would like, but they will go well together with worn Panda tracks. And once sand fills in all the cuts in the rubber it will be much less prominent. Compared to Dragon kit, cleaning is much easier. All the connection pins and seam lines are placed smarter so it is easier to clean them. The only accuracy issue that I noticed is idler wheel which is a bit thick. I think that Dragon one is correct thickness. And here it is
  5. Beautiful work, Dan! I am really enjoying following your thread. Nenad
  6. Thank you Jack! Archer digits I used are actually quite there (maybe just a bit higher). However, digits on the reference photo I am using are unusually large, I would say maybe 50% larger than the instructions you are mentioning. Nenad
  7. Wow, great work Vytautas! It looks real. Nenad
  8. Impressive work with PE! Paintwork turned out great. I am using AK putty and there is no residue. However, as you mentioned, if you leave it too long, it will be pulled down and can create some mess. Especially if it is too tick. It is especially annoying if you have to apply multiple layers of paint, the edge can move a bit between layers if you are not careful and instead of nice hard edge you end up with kind of blurry one. Didn't found any tips how to overcome this except using thin layers of putty and helping it to level by applying some pressure and then, acting quickly. If someone
  9. Ohhh, this is something to look at! Fantastic! Nenad
  10. Hi guys, Not much progress, but I managed to finish tools and Asuka M2 MG (which I really like, details are really nice). And stowage: Stowage is a bit too "sharp and contrasty" but it will bland in once covered with dust. Not sure about the colors I used for canvas, bags and straps, I just followed MiniArt instructions and checked few photos online. I extended straps on the large rolled canvas using PE strips, so it can be attached to the sides. Also added some of the decals I had already in my stash, like
  11. Well that's thanks to @diablo rsv, he gave me very useful photography tips. Me neither, this is the first time I had this problem with MRP. And regarding Asuka, well, it's too good to change my mind
  12. @diablo rsv thanks, will try VMS one. I am using their burnishing products and I am quite satisfied. My latest choice for CA is zap-a-gap. It is great for some cases because it also acts as a filler and can be easily sanded. But not so much for very small parts because if I put a very small blob it will not work, but otherwise, it will "swallow" the part. I am also using Gator Glue in some cases for PE. It is great because it allows repositioning and when dried it is very thin and almost invisible, but it does not have enough grip in some cases. For CA application, I am using glue looper. It i
  13. Great work with PE and scratch building. PE is my least favorite part of any build. Which glue are you using to attach PE to styrene? I've been experimenting with many options and not having the one I am completely satisfied with. Nenad
  14. Hello everyone, Model finally got it's coat of Mr.Color C38 OD. And got it's sand shields Noticed that jerry can holder is missing, so had to scratch one. I have no idea if this is correct, but based on the photos it's close enough. After airbrushing few light coats of chipping fluid and letting it dry for around 10 minutes, a few coats of MRP's Light Stone were applied. I wanted OD to see through on some places and to make the coverage that is not very consistent, which was the case with most paintworks at the time. MRP is great fo
  15. Beautiful job! I have a sweat spot for Cromwell! Weathering is spot on. Nenad
  16. Hi guys, I was on a vacation out of town for a week so not much had been done. Suspension completed and painted. Had some trouble sanding the joints as hey were hard to reach once suspension was attached. I'll do it differently next time, I'll fully assemble suspension first and then attach it to the hull. I decided to go with Light Stone for desert camouflage. Timeline wise, it makes more sense. Also, got some hints from @Mike Starmer. Thank you Mike! Here's with some MRP Light Stone applied. I painted just the areas that were easy to
  17. Absolutely fantastic Darryl! Everything looks great, but If I would have to choose something, winter camouflage, stowage and figures are top notch. Cheers, Nenad
  18. Great work Andy. Paintwork i really nice! You don't see this little thingy very often. Cheers, Nenad
  19. @diablo rsv I am also usually misting MLT over RC paint, as it tends to get gritty sometimes. I am not sure if crazing is connected to misting MLT, but I think it is connected to the cases when RC finish is too gritty/rough. Which may be connected to the situations when I am not patient enough to wait between layers. I was planning to do some testing with RC and different scenarios (to experiment with time between layers etc.). I am usually sticking to MRP and Gunze, but RC color accuracy is better for some paints such as Light Stone, so it is pity it's hard to make it work reliabl
  20. Same thing happened to me twice with RC. Still have no idea what was the problem. The only thing that I noticed is that this happens when I am in hurry, but what is exactly the problem (it may be not waiting enough between layers, or not paying attention how far am I from the model, or something else), I have no clue... Anyway, even though in most of the cases RC gives nice results, me being unable to avoid this from happening makes me stay away from RC whenever possible. Best, Nenad
  21. Wow I am speechless! I'll follow along if you don't mind. Cheers, Nenad
  22. On my list for quite some time. I will definitely follow along. Cheers, Nenad
  23. Thanks for pointing out. Just bought Sherman III one from Bovington Tank Museum online shop. It seems that this Sherman thing is some disorder I developed. Dangerous stuff. Please stop me before my wife kills me Cheers, Nenad
  24. Hi Jack, There is mention on Page D of Code Swallow book about the traces of disruptive camouflage on some 3rd Hussar's tanks, stating that this contradicts most accounts that describe 3rd Hussar's tanks as being Desert Pink. Just as you mentioned, there are photos of 3rd Hussar's tanks with traces of disruptive camouflage. I've seen at least one, the destroyed tank with blown off turret. Maybe sappers were called off just after starting the job, similar to what happened while they were applying disruptive camouflage on Crusaders of Sqd A, 9th Lancers. So un
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