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Everything posted by socjo1

  1. I'm watching with interesting as I have SH's Pucara in my plans. I have one question. Are you eating sausage during your modelling sessions? Take care with these! Regards, Michal
  2. Some old models or guide-book for modelers. But exactly?... I think I could see these pictures '80s in Poland. So maybe Novo models or polish producer ZTS Plastyk (Yak-1, RWD-5 PZL-37 Los and another) or maybe in these book: (Plastic airplanes models building) published 1984 @GrzeM or @hadzi could you help? Best regards, Michał
  3. Progress is slow untill now, but this stage of building is not very easy and reqires precision and good planning. I fixed fuselage and wing together and then remove a gap between fuselage and wing. Before: I used CA glue and this: I put CA glue with thin wire and razor's edge in fuselage-wing gap and then worked with accelerator to faster fixing glue and deonder to remove some glue residues. Result (still needs some final Surfacer and polishing): That's how almost ready wheel bays looks: 1. Black base 2. Spraying transparent off white (Hataka C Insignia White) 3. Brushed white (lifecolor) on ribs and details 4. Modelworld's wash 5. A few multi-colour details. Best regards, Michal.
  4. Simply fantastic, watching with great interesting. Lot of learning and inspirations for me. Thank you for sharing. Regards, Michał
  5. If this model is comparable to Starling's model you will have a lot of good fun with her! Good choice, gratulations! PS, Starling announced reissuing its 1/350 River Frigate with Black Cat's 3 D details soon... Regards, Michał Edit/ PS. I forgot most important: Happy Birthday Jon!
  6. Don't feel stressed. All we have different optics, preferencies, tastes... Some of us prefers "clean" models while some of us like more weathered ships. Some of us like build slowly but some prefers quick projcts and growning fleet-collection. And this diversity is very interesting and educational. And finally all we here love ships and building them. And it is most important! Regards, Michał.
  7. Welcome abroad! Tribals are beauty ships and you caught their beauty very well. Lot of inspiration for me to take off the shelf my Tribal and finally begin it. As previously said - all this goodies from Black Cat, Micromaster or North Star take our models to completly different world regarding quality and details. You showed here very clean and precise modelling skills. I have only small question: I think North Waters around Iceland, Nordkapp and Barents See are very mild areas, mercifull and polite for ships? Of course I am joking and it is only my personal taste, but I think your model would be even better with even only delicate weathering. It always add "life" to model - "climat", time and historical context. But I appreciate your approach too. Anyway - gratulations! Regards, Michał.
  8. Hi Rob, Eduard's coloured straps were originally painted flash/pinky colour. In such small scale for me it looked too contrast and somewhat... silly. It is very subjective but I couldn't look on it. I just painted them transparently by black-brown wash from small polish cottage-industry company Modeller's World : https://www.modelarskiswiat.pl/en/product/oil-wash-black-and-brown/ By the way, I like very much this product, I think first wash I like. It doesn't smell very intensive, spreads quite well on surfaces and bottle has smart drop-dispenser. Best regards, Michał
  9. Oh, Rob, you are here, hided among airplanes! Me too... It will be our secret Fantastic, colourful Harrier full of interesting details. Regards, Michał
  10. Toby, many thanks for very helpfull tips! 1. SBS Models nose is already oreded. This set contains resin nose and three metal parts from (polish) Master (pitot tube and angle of attack probes). The same metal parts you can find in Master's 72019 but without nose. I bought Aires wheel bays too. You can compare them to original Revell parts: 2. I will short nose underarriage. 3. I confirm, gap between wing and fuselage requires extra attention, care and sanding: Not only thinning plastic part is must. Don't forget remove a few ejection-pins and be careful with instruction. I found there one fault. Fix part nr 30 opposite way: I restored uneven panel lines: ... ...and slightly thinned thick tail fin (photo before sanding): When I work on fuselage and nose, Mikołaj (Nicholas) prepares tanks and armament: Uuuuups..... Something went wrong while my son polished a tank: Happily, a few drops of CA glue and Tamiya accelerator filled all holes quickly. Now I have a question to all Tornadologists ;-). These grey patterns on wings. When where they painted and when - not? Has these patterns Tornado EA Mige Eater or not? I would be very greatful for help. Best regards, Michal & Mikolaj.
  11. Really nice model, grats! I do silmilar plane but in 1/72 scale, so lot of inspirations for me. Have you any photos of camoulfaged drop tanks or is this just your licentia poetica? Best regards, Michał.
  12. Hi Jon, I always like watch Flowers... And I have three in my shipyard. I have one observation: Anyway, good luck with Anchusa! Best regards, Michał
  13. Very unusual plane and model. And very good modelling-craftmanship. I am looking with interesting! Best regards, Michał.
  14. Thanks a lot! I think so. Eduard released Tonka's cockpit in Brassin product's line. https://www.eduard.com/eduard/tornado-gr-1-cockpit-1-72.html?lang=1 There are only decals as a instruments and dials so I really hope these decals are better quality than those in "Desert Storm" edition. It would be heavy disappointment extra pay for extra upgrade set and receiving something "not so extra". Another option could be Kits World 3D decals however I don't know this company quality and this is for GR.4 variant. https://www.kitsworld.co.uk/index.php?GOTO=787&PICFILE=787&STKNR=787&STRH=&ORDN=&RNZ=345757&THISVIEWMODE=2&SUPPLIER=&FINDRETR=&WIDENET=&CATEGORY=9&SUB=6&VWW=1&VANCE=99 Best regards, Michał & Mikołaj
  15. Rich, thanks for kind and warm words, I really appreciate this! I don't like coloured PE Eduard sets too much. They are like Mc Donald. Very quick, not awful, but not very good. I don't like because they are almost completly flat and often you can see raster (dots of paints) on it. I hoped Eduard's decals are better and I would use these with original plastic parts. This method sometimes gives great results, as you can see on my previous model, ArmaHobby's Wildcat: Unfortunately, Eduard's decal instruments are... just almost black holes without ane details: dials, digits and so on. So I took a little brush and somewhat "oldschooly" painted dials like 30 years ago. It was possible thanks to great Revell's part relief. In a few parts I use photo etched parts, sometimes - decals. Generally it is a mix of these three techniques. In all cockpit contains about 70 parts. Ho would belive? Light flesh-coloured seat belts was painted with brown wash to give them more dull effect. I think original colour was just too bright in such small scale and miniature. As I mentioned earlier, front seat was heavily thinned by scalpel to make a place for steering column. As you probably know Revell' s model is not very young (even he can legally buy alcohol and tobacco and so on ). So on one side it is model with fantasic details (interior, panel lines and so on) but on the other side you can see lot of passing-time's signs: many surface-damages, sink holes and so on. So now it's time for very boring but necessery job: take care and curing all these defects. Till next time, Michał (and Mikołaj)
  16. As a canoe enthusiast I mus say subject is fantasic, your job is very fine too. I like especially painting of face. What was originally a fabric of his anorak/uniform? Oiled or rubbered cotton? Regards, Michał
  17. Another your beauty and inspiring ship. Especially for me - I have Buckley clas with F-Star in my stash (and plans!) too. I have a question. I see bluish central camouflage section is quite transparent and streaked, not a "solid" colour. Is this effect your interpretation or is it visible on archive photos? PS. Main guns are not Trumpy nor Five Star, I pressume Best regards, Michał.
  18. Two weeks ago I started Gulf War Tonka. I had to do a pause in my maritime project which appeared more troublefull than I expected. I hope you will find here some interesting and helpfull points and... sorry for my english . As usuall, I work together with my 8 years old son who is big history and aviation's fun. He supoports my high morale strongly He cutted almost all plastic parts, glued with Tamiya Extra Thin, however now it's time for me. Working with interior are quite long and complex, every seat contains about 15 parts. It was a little shock for me as I usually do planes of II world war era, far less complicated. 2 warnings: 1. You have to fill or cover gaps in the floor, as resin seats are narrower than plastic: 2. After fitting seats, there is almost no place between pilot's seat and dashborad for steering column. Dry-fitting and cutting both seat's back side are must! Best regards, Michał (and Mikolaj)
  19. Serge, could you explain how did you do small window in canopy (its left side)? And what paints did you use? Regards, Michał
  20. Beautifull model, especially it is Airfix. You really gave real live for this model. One remark. Maybe somewhat too much weathering for pre-war, early machine but it is only my personal taste. Really pleasure for my eyes.
  21. Rafał, that's absolutely fantastic! Great "real" photos and pilot is nice add. What about decals? From where did you take a pilot? Chipping is mady by oil paints?
  22. All these models today have much better options: better detailed and easier assembled. I wouldn't bother with it. Let's take a look at Spitfire This model has quite good overell dimensions, better than Hasegawa, but today Eduard beats ICM strongly in all aspects. Better details, better fit, decals, and so on. ICM is rather difficult build - its fuselage is quite fragmented and fitting is not best. Many details have sink marks or wrong shapes (propellers spinner, guns and its covers,casing shutes and so on). Poor decals are another ICM's trademark. Mustang - this model is something like "non-authorisated Tamiya's licence" Another story are russian fighters. I made Lagg-3 and it was nice building: https://pwm.org.pl/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=25321
  23. You can find many interesting tutorials here: https://ak-interactive.com/downloads as Rob said Starling Model and Black Cat are best first choice option in my opinion. Morover, I can recommend Niko Models http://www.nikomodel.pl/index.php/en/ and AJM Models http://ajmmodels.pl/english/ They offer very interesting subjects, models are well detailed, however they can be not easiest for build. You can see here how it buils: 1/700 HMS Royal Scotsman and Jervis Bay: https://www.kfs-miniatures.com/1-700-hms-royal-scotsman-ajm-models-budowa/ http://modelarstwo.koszalin.pl/index.php/modele/okrety/487-krazownik-pomocniczy-hms-jervis-bay-1-700-ajm-models Niko Models 1/350 japanese riverine gunboat Fushimi and 1/700 HMS Exeter: https://modelwork.pl/topic/38972-fushimi-1941-niko-model-1350/ https://modelwork.pl/topic/26865-hms-exeter-1942-niko-model-1700/ Best regards, Michał
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