Patton610

It does, and my uncle would notice too. Started in college with MGs and had a mk ii saloon at one point but that's a whole other story. Coming in from the outside, I don't I don't know such thing or what really needs to be fixed between years. I can paint the consoles pretty easily ... not sure about arm rests... the car community doesn't seem to have the great number of conversions available that say a taliya tank kit would... but the kit is relatively new too.

Does thr old healer kit or thr previous revell offering do any better? I was able to narrow it down to a 1967 convertible

I'm looking at building the roadster version of this but can't quite tell what generation or version of e type this is i gather changes were made due to safety regs and such but I'm not schooled enough to br able to spot the differences between the 60s and late models. I would like to build one as a replica of a real car a relative has but am pretty sure theirs is a newer one made for the anerican market. I'm not certain that the earlier version could be updated. The big difference i do know is some of the last gen ones had a v12 engine? Whether or not this matters cosmetically ... u don't know.

Thank you! I think I ended up being slightly off but I mixed my own sort of intermediate green and us us dark green as the darker part of the scheme and a sand brown as the tan (us tan was completely out) but they look more correct in relationship to one another than what was called for on the box vs real life photos.

I'm having a bit of a conundrum with the paint for this kit. I am using vallejo model color paints. Thr actual instructions are a bit confusing because the numbers referenced seem to be darker than the illustrations. The 3 primary colors referenced are 71.034 sandy brown, 70.894 which is called gunship green but thr actual color with that code seems to be camo olive green. This would be thr lighter green on the instructions. The darkest green is referenced as 71.018 black green. The closest I was able to come to this us 70.890 refractive green. These two greens are almost indiscernable when next to one another. One seems to be a brown base the other a green. My question is this: if I leave the model out in the sun will these paints fade into a greater difference? ... or should I actually find the gunship green color vallejo makes... I did not consider thst the error might be with the number because they tend to change paint names all the time. I'm trying to figure out how to attach a photo but seems to only want web based ones. Following this link will show the painting instructions in relatively high resolution, but I would not click on the image except to enlarge it because I am suspicious of why a resort would be hosting 1/144 model images. https://www.google.com/search?q=ac-47+roden&client=ms-opera-mobile&channel=new&espv=1&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjRqYv8l4LxAhXHXM0KHfwTDIsQ_AUoAnoECAIQAg&biw=412&bih=670&dpr=2.63#imgrc=FGOZ5jucZXjSYM

Are these out in the wild? I've been looking for the US version and it's still listed as a future release . In one of the others seem to be listed online either.

decided to finally attempt this thing, but am running into lits call it conceptual issues. I want to use a wooden deck. The kit is made up of a three part hull/deck . the majority of the superstructure is molded onto the deck. There is a stern and bow insert. My concern here is that its not really possible to tell if any of the wooden decks out there leave a lip of sorts for PE to be attached to. if the wooden decks only cover the area of the deck parts (inserts) then the hull side forms a natural lip for the PE and there really isnt any conflict. However, if the wooden decks cover the kit edge to edge, then the issue becomes how do traditional model finishing steps interact with these wooden decks that are out there? Do clearcoats and the like discolor them, how does PE work with them etc? Some of these are self adhesive and I dont want to accidentally pull one up while trying to apply PE.. which I am admittedly a novice at.....(trial and error and 4 kits resulted in one complete 1/350 afv club gato)

Sweet!

I have a KP UC-78/ T50 bobcat in 1/72 I want to do it up like an aircraft from particular raining field. In the case of this field and many others that I've seen, the only markings are numbers and perhaps letters... and then national roundels. Thst being the case, I found some 1/72 decal letters and numbers, but that kind of spooks me me trying to apply a long line of numbers and I began to think about stencils. But I did not find any that really were aimed at models. Was this ever a thing or is it impractical or did I miss a source in my search. I know stencil makers are out there but I wouldn't know where to begin. I think the letters and such they used on stateside aircraft were actual stenciled on, but I dont even know what that font is called (if it has a name at all)

I ended up going with insignia red, because well... my choice was made for me when I looked at the decals. Despite them calling for a brighter red, the decals themselves seem to match insignia red. Grabbed an enamel bottle along with the acrylic though. Felt like I was painting with mud ... but after I removed it, it left an interesting discoloration on the vallejo white aluminium under it... sort of a purplish tinge that reminded me of discoloration on chrome.

I'm doing the tamiya 1/48 p51B/c and found both guards red and insignia red in model master acrylic. From everything I've read, therecwere multiple paths to the same shade, add to that the fact that most aircraft have faded to some point or another, but outside of a kind of artisan paint company that I believe was on kickstarter (and naval paint at that) a while back I have not located faded versions of any paint. So it seems like the jury is out on if it's a faded darker red or an entirely different shade than what's in the books. That said my sample size is small. I read the AK real color manual that is available on google books. The websites are more varied, but I have not found anything specific, just guidance on the patterns and general color.

I found a sort of scale that provided various shades of insignia red with ana 619 being on the brighter end, but the issue was not the identity of ana 619, but the whether there was any justification for a brighter red to be used such as seen in the recent films

I'm building the 1/48 tamiya 51b/c and have located some decals to turn it into a tuskegee version. The issue I am having is that virtually all the recent photos and films show a bright ted that the decal instructions call guards red.a basic search for guards red brings up porche. Clearly a very distinctive red and visually pleasing, but I've yet to find any source that mentions any other red than insignia red and ana 619. Is there anything out there that provides any guidance on this or is it a conflict between an absence of sources and hollywood...which just chose a bright red because it filmed better?

I have maybe bought 4 1/350 AFV club gato class submarines. for one reason or another i've had issues with every one of them. I finally went out and got some proper tools and its mostly if not perfectly... together. the one issue that I cannot seem to get around however is CA glue for the photo etched pieces. I always have ended up gluing the part to my fingers, or bending the raining etc. The kit actually has photo etched propeller guards and railing. the best way to approuich this due to the fast drying time of the ca glue that I have, seems to be to attach each vertical post one at a time, but my tools are more blunt than I care to attempt such a chore with. Are there home made applicators out that that CA glue will not stick to or specialized applicators like the model master cement applicator? I have only ever used CA to build warhammer models back in the day, and back then i used a heavier gooey mixture that worked well when hidden in arm joints , but would not apply easily on small parts.

Ah that makes sense, I mean so far as getting things uniform, I'm still a bit at a loss about achieving a true Matt finish. Its not much of an issue if you are working with car model or something that is naturally glossy or if you are doing weathering.... But so far as achieving a dull coat after the shiny dull coat to achieve actual dull rather than uniform decal shiny dull....... What should be used. On this model everything was hand brushed acrylic. (vallejo) I messed around with some decal setter and a light wash on a 1/72 m1a2 that limited shininess... But I think that was the wash more than the setter. All I really wanted was a coat to seal everything else in, and limit glare are there true Matt's that do that or is the shininess always going to be there as an artifact of the decal unless you do a gloss coat first?