Jump to content

Yorkshire Barry

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

30 Good

About Yorkshire Barry

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Yorkshire UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Halfords paints are acrylics and seem to have much more body than model paints and therefore I think are going to need more polishing. I know there is a lot or work to do but I want to get as good a finish as I can before i start the hard work. The good thing about Halfords paints is that are car colours, model paints are not muddy enough. My main colour will be black so not an issue but it will be for a contrast panel. I seem to get a better surface with model paints but not the depth of gloss. I'll get a few cans of different makes and do some test panels. I'll also go and ta
  2. Yes I found the same thing on most panels; the doors were particularly bad, the side panels need some work but I was surprised with the wings, they have been primed, rubbed down and primed again and still not a flaw anywhere. Amazing! As well as surface finish the comment about warping was relevant but in the case of my doors they are fine, no need for the hot blower! And yes, my doors are bolted on, hot melt pins a bit like death, you only get one shot at it. Still a long long way to go and as the weather deteriorates the work rate will increase! Barry
  3. Yes I have read your articles but my query was for any paints that UK users have tried, some mention Halfords. i am happy to get a few brands to trial before spraying the panels. No sign of warping on the doors. You refer to a way to hinge the doors for painting but I wanted to paint the doors off the side panels. I have done some initial trial fits and adjustments. Barry
  4. Been quiet lately, things tend to slow down over summer. Current activity needs a lot of patience, I am cleaning up the panels for painting. Some areas need a lot of filling and rubbing down, I have got the doors nearly there, they were quite bad as supplied. Also the top of the firewall had some deep dents in it. Surprisingly the wings and running boards need no filler whatever, they are excellent. i am trying to decide what paint to use, up to now I have used a Tamiya acrylics but the main body panels need a high gloss finish. I have an airbrush but am getting good results with aerosols
  5. Thank you got that, I’ve had a look and will go back when I get to that bit. Barry
  6. I certainly want the bonnet (sorry hood) to open properly. i am however in deep thought about the end result. I have not finished with the chassis, I intend to go back and add a lot more detail. The only thing is that it will never be seen. I can’t see a way to make it possible to lift he body off after completion. I am pondering a display case with two transparent shelves, one above the other. I could then put the fully detailed chassis on the lower shelf and the fully trimmed and wired body on the top shelf, that way it would be possible to see all the detail. Maybe some bits of mirr
  7. Intricate phase of the build, checking the alignment of all the body components. I have introduced bolted construction wherever possible and with adjustment when things have to be repositioned from the Pocher fixings. This shot shows the adjustable attachment between floor and body for example. The rear panel is bolted similar to Codgers arrangement. The alignment of the wings requires a lot of trial and error. The Ambassador is one piece from front to rear, I don’t want to cut to modify. I have tried the fit against the chassis, some relieving nec
  8. Progress seems a bit slow for two reasons, one is the fine weather. The other is that I have been taking a lot of time getting happy with the location of the body. As mentioned in other posts I found that the body needed moving aft. I was trying to work out the effects on the body inner panels but eventually decided that they some were going to be cut and fitted anyway, the inner panel forward of the door for instance. At the end of the day the body position works itself out, from the radiator along the bonnet panel and then the tub to butt up to the trunk. My wings are one piece front and rea
  9. Following your build has been extremely valuable to me as is the DVD. I cannot imagine how anyone could build these cars from the instructions. Fortunately I had two friends who built Pochers, both sadly dead now so I knew that it would be a challenge and that nothing would fit. Getting the chassis built has been OK and I will be going back for a lot of enhancements. I think thus body alignment is the part of the build needing the most caution. I am trying to build the rest of the body in my mind to try and avoid unseen problems which could occur by getting the height more realistic. as
  10. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Yes you are right I read your posts up to the point that I was working, I did not study the build that I am not yet reaching therefore I did not see your later modifications. I have now read right through. However like you I was not satisfied with my first set of adjustments, I wanted the body to be still lower on the frame, like you I am looking at side views of the real cars. I then worked slightly differently. My packing pieces at the front of the floor are lower than yours by about one tenth but as you found the body us still too high. Unlike you I
  11. Still messing about with tape but I am satisfied that I can get the body in a good position relative to the chassis in the fore and aft dimension , starting from the radiator the bonnet length positions the body fore and aft and the rear of the body reaches the trunk. Separately I have attached the floor to the chassis in a similar fashion to codgers 'i.e spacers at the front, slot to clear the rear cross member and captive nuts to bolt the floor to the chassis. I have found a issue with the height of the body on the floor which I have not found much about in all the online experiences bu
  12. Thanks codger for the helpful,comments, I have read your post but I need to work at it step by step to put it in context. I plan to reset the spring leaves when I finalise the height needed, I have pulled the body down with a loop of cord at the rear and will pull the front down the same way. Not sure why you advise against lifting the rad, I was only planning around 2mm. I certainly won’t be cutting the bonnet sides for some time, I keep in mind what my grandad said, always keep your wood as long as you can as long as you can. Why did you make a taller rear step, was that to get the floor low
  13. This is the second “sticking”. Firewall has been dropped, rear springs lowered, floor cutout over chassis cross member. i was taking the floor in and out so often I removed the pedals and hand levers, will put those back later. The radiator needs raising slightly because the front apron is not fitting properly. The bonnet sides (sorry hood) have not been trimmed, I have just laid them on so that I know they are big enough. This shows why the radiator needs raising. I am concerned that the starting handle shaft might not line up needing a bit of fettling. When the body i
  14. Bearing in mind the body panels are only thrown on I need yo look into it further. I can see the logic in dropping the firewall and levelling the bonnet, even with my rough taping that is apparent. I’m not so convinced on dropping the rear springs on mine although it’s easy to do. I have had a level on the chassis and it is spot on. Side to side ride heights are all equal. I am concerned that dropping the rear will look like a duck’s bottom! main thing is to carefully position the panels to weigh it up properly. my posts up to this point have been catching up to present day, I have act
  • Create New...