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ratsmitglied

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About ratsmitglied

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  1. More aimed at wargamers, but http://wargaming3d.com has a lot of options for all sorts of scales
  2. I'm pretty sure it's blow the excess off with the airbrush - as per the resinaway instructions: https://monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resinaway-cleaner/ the 'directions' section says I didn't follow these exact instructions with my print, hence the cloudiness Actually, those instructions are probably good ones to follow with IPA
  3. @Bangseat That was post-cured under a 36W nail curing lamp purchased from Amazon, I can look up exactly which model it was if you're interested. but yes, it is a bit cloudy, I suspect it was because I forgot the wash step after cleaning in resinaway, so if I throw it in the ultrasonic cleaner with soapy water it will probably clear up nicely.
  4. @BangseatFinally had a chance to find an item and get a photo - not the best in terms of showing clarity (nature of the object printed), but it does show the colour that the resin comes out at And I due to the nature of the object (intended to be painted) I may have forgotten a step to clear up the cloudiness...
  5. Electricity costs for FDM printers are negligible - as in $0.15 for 4 hours worth of printing. I have had two FDM printers and a Resin printer all running on a single 10A circuit with no problems at all.
  6. I actually disagree with that - you find the best file for your purposes and if it happens to be a paid file you pay for it. 3d files still take a lot of work to create, so for the quality that we are looking for with modelling it is more than reasonable to pay for a good quality rendition (like @Bangseat's above).
  7. Monocure3d clear resin does tend to yellow slightly when exposed to UV wavelengths of <405nm - it is particularly noticable if you post-cure in the sun. If you have exactly the right settings for post cure and get the properly cleaned and cured then it doesn't tend to yellow (and yes this resin does print perfectly clear) Getting completely clear parts out of a printer is a pain, I personally have found with the monocure resin that using their ResinAway with an ultrasonic cleaner, then rinsing in water and drying off prior to post-cure does get a much clearer result than using IPA
  8. not really - most printers run at 12 or 24 volts, so actually significantly less power draw than an electric kettle or microwave. My ender 3 has a 360W power supply - 24 volts at 15A. People have measure it as using 0.5kWh for 4 hours worth of printing, which in most places is a fairly negligeable cost.
  9. Depending on what it is, some designers have very simple license terms for printing - e.g. 10% of revenue from sales of prints from their items. I have picked up a couple of licenses for print ranges because they were either that arrangement, or the price to pay for the license was not significantly greater than buying the models myself. Trick is that even if the designer does offer this ability you have to find someone who has the license. In a lot of cases the MMF designers don't offer licenses, or if they do it's hard to find out the cost and/or requirements So in that sense,
  10. 10 pounds seems a bit excessive for that item - material costs do vary between whether it is resin printed or FDM printed, but most commission printers would charge based on time take as well as material costs. I know that this is the model that I use. I'd be happy to provide you an estimate of what I would charge to print (I basically charge cost recovery for items that I haven't designed myself), but any savings you may get would probably be eaten up by customs and postage from AU. At a very basic estimate I would say material costs for an FDM print would be somewhere <$1, how
  11. I personally would say that it depends on the resin you're using as much as anything. I run an air purifier with an activated carbon filter next to my printer at all times that it has resin in it to filter out as many of the fumes as possible, but I know that other people have set up extraction fans and run them in an enclosure to vent the off-gasses outside. My experience compared to casting resin is that they are similar in terms of the fumes, but the casting resin isn't usually left sitting out like you do with photosensitive resins. I would agree with @LostCosmonauts that model
  12. Best of luck with that - If you're interested I know that HumbleBundle currently has a bundle which includes a book on Blender (aimed at animators, but many of the principles will be the same) As to the printer, from everything I've heard about the Elegoo Mars I don't think you can go wrong with the Mars Pro!
  13. Not really, just to my business's page on Facebook where there are a few more photos of that particular model and a few other things I've printed in resin - facebook.com/FlyingGoat3d if you're interested.
  14. Yes it is - I'm pretty happy with it now I've worked out it's quirks and found a resin and cleaning process that I'm happy with using. Overall it's now my go-to printer for most things because there is less to check before each print and when failed prints occur it's mostly my fault rather than the printer's. There is a learning process involved with finding the correct layer times for a resin, how to set your supports (basically required for resin printing) On another forum I'm a member of there are a number of 'non-tech' people (their words) who have the Elegoo Mars and they have
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