Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


3D Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Good

About ratsmitglied

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Best of luck with that - If you're interested I know that HumbleBundle currently has a bundle which includes a book on Blender (aimed at animators, but many of the principles will be the same) As to the printer, from everything I've heard about the Elegoo Mars I don't think you can go wrong with the Mars Pro!
  2. Not really, just to my business's page on Facebook where there are a few more photos of that particular model and a few other things I've printed in resin - facebook.com/FlyingGoat3d if you're interested.
  3. Yes it is - I'm pretty happy with it now I've worked out it's quirks and found a resin and cleaning process that I'm happy with using. Overall it's now my go-to printer for most things because there is less to check before each print and when failed prints occur it's mostly my fault rather than the printer's. There is a learning process involved with finding the correct layer times for a resin, how to set your supports (basically required for resin printing) On another forum I'm a member of there are a number of 'non-tech' people (their words) who have the Elegoo Mars and they have had no problems getting them up and running.
  4. I'll agree on both of these statements - damn good show on the Ender3, and yes, the layer line issues do mostly disappear with a resin printer. Elegoo Mars (regular or Pro) or Anycubic Photon (or Photon S, NOT the photon Zero) seem to be the go-to choices for wargamers (with the Elegoo Saturn which has a larger print bed being due later this year). I may represent this comment. I found the same as you, the A8 wasn't worth the shipping materials - sure you can get a good print out of them, if you want to spend significant amounts of time and effort getting it tuned - unlike the Ender which gets pretty good prints out of the box, and almost perfect prints with only a relatively small amount of tuning. Smaller layers definitely helps with getting better prints, I know I've printed at 0.08mm on my Ender3, and I've heard of people going down to 0.04mm, but at the same time there is a trade off in speed For larger items (and terrain) FDM really is the only way to go, and a 28mm longship definitely counts as that! But for smaller items (such as people) I find the resin printer is significantly better (and easier even with the post-print cleanup etc) - this photo is of a 28mm wargaming figure printed on an Anycubic photon at 0.05mm layer heights, primed and drybrushed so you can see the details. Larger copy on these forums at I used to default to the FDM machine for printing, but now I've used the Resin printer a lot more I only really use the FDM printer for things that won't fit on the printbed!
  5. I've been through exactly the same two FDM printers (plus a third), the A8 I just gave away because I couldn't put up with the crap it produced any more Then I bought the Photon because I was looking more into wargaming figures and layer lines really aren't an issue with that. There are also some primers being marketed with the specific claim that they fill layer lines, but I 1) Can't remember the brands and 2) suspect you'll lose some detail.
  6. Doing some checking, the resin that I use the company gives shrinkage as <0.5%, and that's for their standard resin designed for low-power printers. This resin is gloopier than the resin that came with my printer, so thank you for bringing this to my attention (basically we get expansion when we print, but then shrinkage afterwards)
  7. The expansion is probably in part due to diffusion of the UV light source through the resin itself and the FEP (or other material) that is used to make up the bottom of the vat, but at the same time when you over expose something you get a distinct expansion - so much so that if printing directly on the print bed you can get a noticeable elephants foot on the item (this is why I always raise items off the print bed when printing in resin - my normal layers are 10s, my base layers are 100s to ensure adhesion) I have seen some documents as to why this happens, but for the life of me can't remember where I saw them!
  8. In terms of shrinkage in curing there isn't any, the issue is actually with expansion in the printing process - if you have a perfectly dialled in printer this is minimal, however if not then it can be enough to lose detail. I haven't noticed any expansion in post-cure (although if you don't get the resin cleaned off fully then you do end up losing detail due to resin setting where it shouldn't) How much expansion there is really depends on the size of the object being printed. Based on my printing I've found it's about 1%, but then that can also vary on the orientation of the model and the thickness of the piece. So it isn't a bad idea to design for it, but at the same time there is a chance that even when designing for it that two people using different printers (or different resins) will have different experiences. Thin parts don't usually have problems after post cure as there is a point where the resin is fully cured and thin parts reach that a lot more quickly than thicker parts, you don't usually get issues with deformation or cracking/crazing etc. unless there is uncured resin inside a part which is offgassing or continuing to set. Larger parts are more prone to this than smaller parts, so if I'm printing something larger I'll hollow it out and clean out the inside properly (if I can manage it I'll even make sure that the model can be used without being closed up, so that these gasses can escape). Most resins are fine with a 10-15 minute post cure, but some resins do need longer. Hope that helps a bit (and if you want some actual measurements for expansion I can see what I can do)
  9. I have also contributed to the server fund despite sneaking in (plan was always to contribute, this just reminded me to do so)
  10. Another site (if you're interested in health-related models (e.g. anatomical, chemical compounds etc)) is the NIH 3d Print Exchange - https://3dprint.nih.gov/
  11. you can print in clear resin, however to get the clarity you get from injection moulded plastics etc you do have to take a lot more care with the post cure process. The UV resin does tend to yellow a little bit if the wavelength isn't completely correct. I haven't done too much experimentation with trying to print items in clear except where they are being tinted through inks etc. anyway. There are some places that produce clear filament, but I'm not sure how well they print.
  12. I'm more traditional in my base as well - when it comes to 3d modelling I'll do tweaking to get exactly what I want, but not so much sculpting from scratch Definitely horses for courses. As a wargamer the FDM machine is great for terrain and larger items, but for detail the resin is better. It is possible to get excellent details on an FDM machine, but as @LostCosmonauts says, it's not worth the effort to get them to that level of accuracy
  13. I've found the same on the horizontal - you can apparently get better with smaller nozzles, but that's what I have a resin printer for
  14. All 3d prints have layer lines, however on resin printers these are usually not noticeable except on areas that are easy to clean up. FDM prints usually have fairly noticeable layer lines, but yes, the higher resolution you print at the less noticeable they are. Trick is that although Resin printers typically have no problems printing at 0.02-0.05mm layers, most FDM printers can't reliably print any finer than about 0.08mm. The figure in this post any lines you can see are because of the drybrushing rather than the printer!
  • Create New...