Lewis95

Looks great matey

Whoa.... For plastic? 180 would shred wouldn't it? Aye, at the moment I do seem to have a few tide marks but the bulginess seems to be gone. And yes, I know bulginess isn't a word haha

Might have a look at those Everbuild ones then. Which grades? I think my "coarse" sanding stick is around 1500 grit. Should I be going to 800 maybe? The surface in this instance is actually dead flat aside from minor lippage. It's the top seam on a Twin Otter which is a boxy SOAB at the best of times 🤣

Forgive me picking apart your lengthy reply haha The part regarding no flex sanding equipment.... Now that sounds like it could be useful. I'd need to DIY it with a bit of wood or rigid XPS (the solid supports they used to send with Wedi board when I worked in the tile industry) but that may work. Any recommendations for grits? Beyond wary of superglue. I can't even keep my tubes alive let alone use it properly lol

The same stuff citadel used to sell? When I've got dregs in my TET bottle, I plan on making some. But we digress, this thread is aiming more towards recommending different fillers and putties which is helpful but not quite what I was asking. I was more asking in regards to the techniques in the black art of seam elimination or I'll still have the same issues if I use sprue glue, Tamiya or car glazing putty at the moment. The tips regarding files are useful so I'll have a look into that but what about with sanding? I never seem to get the sanding part right except by fluke when I sand it up to a gloss finish.

They can be used as primers and fillers. I've used as a primer a few times but made the mistake of spraying indoors once. Despite an open window and my face mask, the room was unusable and the whole of upstairs stank of it for hours afterwards (the room smelt for several days). As a filler, I've had mixed results. Most good but a few where the seam has crept back in due to shrinkage. However, this is my fault for not building up layers. It can provide an excellent seam filler. On my successes, I've sanded it back to a gloss finish to blend it into the surface and had great results. On my failures, I either didn't do the sand to gloss (recent technique) or didn't actually use the product properly or appropriately. It can also be wicked off using Mr Colour Levelling Thinner, a bit like PPP.

Tamiya Basic Putty or the Tamiya Fine Putty? I need to order a tube and was going to order the fine. What's the difference between them if you don't mind me asking. The Mr DP was left overnight to go off and shrink back. All previous putties were either Humbrol or PPP on this one. There's a moderate chance of a photo... Sort of. The seam is pretty much eliminated at this point but I can't seem to get the filler to feather into the plastic. I'll try to nab a photo when it's not gone my bedtime haha!

I have a cheapy Amazon set of needle files. They look like 1 swipe would go clean through the parts if I'm honest.

I don't like using 2 part epoxies, never have for some reason. I did have some Humbrol but it dried out, hence the Mr DP. But it's the bulge that I'm struggling with. Whether it's Miliput or Humbrol or Nana's Toffee, I can't get rid of it without leaving tide marks (the edge of the filler) or oversanding and introducing the seam again.

No issues with size or solidity. It's not a large gap, just a fuselage join that was noticeable under primer. It's now noticeably worse than when I started trying to sort it.

Good Morning all, I am currently trying to rescue my Twin Otter build. I stalled when I couldn't get the top fuselage seam right. No matter how I go at it, it always seems to bulge. I'm currently going at it with Mr Dissolved Putty and a #1500 Flex-i-File. It seems better but I can still feel a definite ridge on the filler. Eliminating seems is not my strong suit at the best of times but I am really struggling with this one. Should I just got back to a really coarse grit (say 400?) and wipe out everything and start again? I'm also worried that I'm about to sand through the plastic altogether (A misstep that led to me binning a hobbyboss easy kit... yes, I got defeated by an easykit...). Any tips would be super helpful!

Looks like I made it in just before the end! Great build so far Johnny

Aye, finding the mojo amongst kids, new job & training as well as a distance college course is challenging at the best of times!

Have a look at the 3M ranges. Masks that can filter out paint particles especially.

Depends on your own personal style I'd say. For me I have the following "rituals" (that vary constantly) Vallejo Model Air: Drip into brush, couple of drops of thinner (eyeballed) and a drop or two of retarder. Vallejo Metal Colour: Straight from bottle, maybe a drop of retarder Tamiya: Fill jar to top with thinner, use straight from bottle (naturally, forget to mark the bottles and overthin sometimes) Humbrol: Brush paint or mix in a separate cup to a milky consistency by eyeball Citadel: Don't airbrush it personally.

Sounds to me like surface contamination if I'm honest. Did you spray straight onto the alcohol? Did the alcohol leave a residue?

From an aviation perspective, it definitely isn't worth risking the lives of everyone on board the aircraft nor the potential costs if an aircraft needs to divert. Sure, it's just a few pots of model paint but if one cracks, leaks through the bag and runs somewhere it shouldn't... A few years ago, a 747 had to divert with a cargo fire warning due to the natural way flowers do something flowery. It messed with sensors onboard the aircraft and cost thousands of liters of Jet A1, ground fees, landing fees.... And if they discover it was because of someone putting a prohibited item in the hold then you'll be getting at least a portion of that bill. Maybe just the parking fee which at £20 per ton per hour at my local airport, quickly adds up on a commercial airliner.

Hey bud, apologies! My model making has completely stalled for now as I've just started a new job. Feel free to offer them out to somebody else. I'm so sorry it took me this long to get back to you. I completely abandoned BM as well as my kits

Hey bud, apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Is that offer still there perchance matey?

I did end up gluing them together in the end and reseating them (no pun intended!). I'll have to test the fit later. If you don't mind sending the excess roundels then I'm sure we can come to some agreement Regarding your build, she looks fantastic! For the graininess, it might be due to macro mode being enabled on the camera?

I've just cracked open this kit! No decals but hey ho, I'll think of something. Out of curiosity mate.... did the seats seem to over hang the fuselage sides? I think I missed a step by not gluing the seats together and placing them on the corners of the pit floor.

The nosering on the Airfix Mig was a sod for me. Other than that, the fit was fairly decent. But on that point, their JP is a beautiful kit. My first on went together fantastically. My 2nd? Fighting me all the way!

Fantastic builds buddy. I've been tempted to do personalised bases for each of my existing models so may I ask how you've constructed yours?

Some like the build process and others like to paint. If I'm being honest, I love simple builds sometimes.

Looks great! Though I'm curious as to why you Flory parts individually (recalling your past builds here) as surely that means none gets around the joins of parts (where pipes are attached to the fuselage for example) or do you spread the grime from the part?