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Iceman 29

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Everything posted by Iceman 29

  1. Small advances on Deck 2 and 3, gluing of the many elements of Deck 2 that are directly under Deck 3. The decks are still not glued together. The paint has been applied except for the back of deck 3 which will be grey H 96 like the other decks in grey. I was wondering if the red linoleum deck was kept until 1940 through the various remodels of the building? I'm waiting to glue the lower crown holding the cranes, I'll do it once the decks are glued so they are perfectly straight.
  2. Printing a crane, the rear stack and a lot of small parts, my parts box is starting to be full... The crane hook is well printed with its very thin chain, it's very fragile.
  3. It's always good to add blocks for motivation, it gives the impression ( 3D! ) that things are moving forward!
  4. Impression of the middle and rear deck 3 and the accommodation around the C turret, galley, bakery etc.. All in duplicate.
  5. I prefer to leave it like that. It's much less obvious in person, more in pictures. On the other hand, the 1/200 PE boards from Toms Modelwork have gone up in price, I've been buying from them since 2000, I've seen the price increase through the invoices. 31.5$ to 36$ + shipping from USA (not too expensive). In fact the PE will cost me the price of 3 ships like this one in resin. Because you need a lot of it and not all the PE board is usable. There is not much of it on board 1 and board 2 is not going to be of any use to me except 1 railing. It is very fragile and there is a waste sometimes. By the way, at the top of the photo on the right, you can see that it is already deformed in the packaging. I would have preferred a thicker sample.
  6. I'm focusing on the bridge and its superstructure for the moment because it's a complex element in itself and therefore needs to be assembled and painted. Fitting the stanchions (supports) of the different decks, not easy. Replacing the arms on the top of the mast with piano wire, it went well because the resin had to be drilled to fit them in. I'm happy with the result, a good solid base for the rigging later. I printed the projectors, the two arms are very fragile, you have to take precautions when handling them. A first paint job in Revelle 90 metallic grey so that the interior is lighter in transparency, then a coat of Humbrol 144 matt grey. It looks good.
  7. Not yet, these are two sighting devices on the bridge. Very difficult to find French sailors at 1/200. I will have to draw and print them myself probably. Yes Steve, not simple, not so much references available with the differents colors.. The aging is also delicate. The bridge and superstructure will be less weathered. The boat is almost new in 1916. And it is always easier for the crews to paint them than the hull.
  8. Tks all! I continued the aging of the hull with a black Tamiya juice for the antifouling part, which darkened it as desired and a little rust sparingly. I continued the assembly of the front superstructure. The triplex tubes are to be painted white. Still a lot of support to be mounted (Pilotis) under the catwalks.
  9. Tks! I decided after some tests along the forecastle to make the railings in PE. It's fine at 1/100 for long lengths, but at 1/200 it's not conclusive. When I print them vertically it's fine, like the one already printed, but in the HZ direction it's not good enough. I have started to replace the PE railings on the front castle, I will keep the matte ones, in resin. This PE I know well is difficult to handle. But the result is good. https://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_38&products_id=180&osCsid=vr1hnp71i8f095s2bqlcukoqv3 You can see the difference in "diameter" with the resin. Note that the railings on these ships were very thin because they were made of solid iron, not hollow tubes like now. There are still some accessories to be mounted here.
  10. Tks all! @ Micha_Pol I didn't UV harden the parts with the railing, so it's still quite flexible and much less fragile, you don't have to wait too long to paint them, and it doesn't harden with daylight. A model remains very fragile anyway in general. Touch only if necessary and for the rest of the time with the eyes only. The advantage is that you can make copies of the parts as often as necessary. PE like the two Tom's Modelworks tracks is more fragile and the tubes are flat and not round. Painting, placing, gluing the fittings of the forecastle, everything is of course not yet in place. Deck 2 is not yet glued, only the 140mm guns are.
  11. Hey Beffy.. 1943, Portsmouth. Ordinary Seaman Fred Lammin from Greenford Middlesex meticulously carving a miniature motor-launch.
  12. Some pictures of the progress of the painting. I used Humbrol 144 matt for the hull and superstructure. Humbrol 96 matt for the steel decks. Revell 37 matt for the linoleum decks. Shading with N°9 matt Revell anthracite. Turret also with N°9, chimney top with Revell matt black n°8. The straps are a little lighter with a mixture of Humbrol 9 and H 144 grey. For the hull, first layers with Humbrol 37 matte green, then SM364 Revell green. I still have to work on the hull which is too light for my taste to get as close as possible to the "Vert de Paris", I have to add some shading around the sheet metal plates before reinforcing the SM364 green to darken it slightly. But for now the effect is the right one, I don't want a uniform hull colour. All this in anticipation of the ageing of the whole. Nothing is glued yet. The problem was that the Humbrol 37 green doesn't cover anything, it's water, first time I used it, I used up 1 and a half pots for the coat. The SM364 green covers well, so that'll do it, but then my shading took a hit, so I'm going to redo it, then 364 again, then a coat of clear matt after aging to immortalize it. The red surface corrosion protection strip is painted with Humbrol matt 60 which I mixed a bit. I printed out work supports for the hull to avoid damaging the paint, they are aimed at the place of the supports of the final display. Practical.
  13. It will be beautiful this aircraft carrier! Have courage.
  14. Awkward, awkward... You're a little too hard on yourself, Steve! I gave it a shot, it worked. I'm reprinting a set of two mats with easier to remove holders. I may have to make copies of this battleship for others. So it's better to have this problem solved before, in the heat of the moment, than later.
  15. Printing the front mast in two pieces. I reinforced them with piano wire inside. I have a few minor repairs on the rail, not easy to de-grapple.
  16. About colors: Plans & Drawings: General list : http://www.shipmodell.com/index_files/0PLAN5A.html#2S Battleship Bretagne plans: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B32-8ZWvIt6UM29ENHIwWV9jSnc/view?resourcekey=0-JqQ1XC8GHZ7QPDNXfRG9kg From the french book & plans " Les Cuirassés de 23 500 tonnes": "5. Special paints and marks: 51. Paintings: The hull up to the waterline is painted green (Schweinfurth green), the topsides and the superstructures are grey-bluish, a classic color since its adoption in February 1908. Only the strake at the top of the funnels is black. From 1915, that is to say during the period of the tests, the steel of the 340 turrets and their guns was stripped bare and treated with a "greasy plug" to prevent corrosion. These "fat plugs" contained a mixture of grease and lampblack, which gives the main artillery turrets that shiny black hue seen in photos from this era. Towards the end of the war (1918), the shaft of the rear mast. is painted black in its upper half to avoid soiling due to fumes. Pursuant to the Ministerial Circular of November 30, 1920, the tranche of waterline is painted black over a height of one meter (0.50 m from and the other side of the water line 10). The launch boats are painted bluish gray with white interior. The vertical parts of the deckhouses of the launches are kept "clear" or varnished if they are wooden, otherwise they are painted the color of the boat. The roofs are painted gray for the steamers, white for the launches. 52. Specific marks: Since 1912, the particular marks of battleships and cruisers consist of white rings painted around one of the funnels. These rings make it possible, within a squadron, to identify the division to which it belongs and the rank of a ship in this division. The code used has already been explained during the presentation of Courbet type battleships. Between 1916, the year of their entry into service, and their first overhaul, the three Class "Bretagne" frequently changed particular marks, so the study of the latter is the subject of a table in the appendix, common to all battleships. of 23,500 tons." From the book " French battleships of WW1 " : Jean Bart in drydock 1916. You can see the 3 bands.. Extract from the book by Laurent Roblin and Luc Féron. "La Royale à la Belle Epoque". In 1995, Laurent Roblin, chief curator of the Musée de la Batellerie in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, discovered a large metal box at the bottom of one of the museum's storage rooms. Inside, fourteen boxes of glass plates? This collection, which had been sleeping in a storeroom since 1967, turns out to be of inestimable value. What are we looking at? 223 images of exceptional quality and totally unpublished, based on the theme of the Royale, the French Navy, from 1895 to 1914. Translate: "The boundary between the dead and the live works is materialized by a white band about 25 cm above the waterline. As far as the color of the living works is concerned, the campaign specifications all specify, when the matter is mentioned, that during the passages in the basin, the hull was repainted with "Schwein-furth green". We also owe Jean Guiglini the formula for the composition of this painting, and we give it here for the benefit of model builders who would like to get a closer look at reality. (Extract from the magazine LA NATURE ler semestre 1930 p. 47). - Mercury soap 15% - Rosin 20% - Turpentine 20% - Lead soap 15% - Linseed oil 20% - Copper acetoarsenate 15% This last material, toxic for marine organisms, and having a very bright aquamarine green color, gives this paint its tint and its anti-shellfish and algae characteristics (nowadays, it looks like an "antifouling" paint) But the problem is not so simple! Indeed, the black and white photographs of the building taken during this period all show, under the white net of the waterline, a dark area that cannot be the result of a green tint. Furthermore, the paintings, watercolors and colored postcards generally show a red area under the white line in question. Finally, the estimates for the work done on various buildings at that time, and on the Bouvet in particular, mention, in addition to the Schweinfurth" green, the use of lead minium in large quantities. The explanation seems clear to us and is, for example, visible in the photo of the Carnot at the basin. While the minium was used as a protective layer against rust, a layer of "Schweinfurth green" was applied afterwards to protect the hull as much as possible against organic dirt. When floating, the main problem is corrosion - it is the oxygen in the air that attacks the iron; this is probably the reason why an area of about one meter, painted with minium, was kept at the top of the living works, just under the white border.
  17. I use it very little, I'm not a fan of the brand. The prints are not always good, it's not consistent. I use it to print transparent resin mainly. The finish of the machine is also a bit cheap. I will not buy another printer from this brand. I'm waiting for the next generation of Anycubic printers for a change, I can't wait to see what will be offered after the 8K.
  18. Tks Ian! Printing again of the stack but in two pieces, it's even better, for the de-grappling and the painting. Printing also a lot of small parts, and the protective railings, but which are also used to store life jackets and not hammocks as said above. The spiral staircases are very well done, very fragile. The more classic ladders too are nice. Reprint of the bridge with the railings, but in two parts. Up: The famous "railings":
  19. I have 4 of them. 2 Anycubic Mono X 4K 1 Anycubic Photon Ultra 1 Phrozen Sonic mini 4K I mainly use the first 3.
  20. Printing of the bridge deck ( Deck 5 ), charts room, bridge "blockhouse". Nothing is glued and not really cleaned of course. I decided to print the railings, it's not bad at all. Deck 4 of the superstructures with its railings is being printed. The other railings will be printed separately, too complex in terms of media to print in one block. The different elements and the way they are divided to be printed easily. It works well.
  21. Tks. Printing the front of deck 3. It fits perfectly. Deck 2 is fitted and the 3 elements are glued together. The toilet scuttles have printed well, you can see the small holes. The front chimney is being printed, result tomorrow morning. Then I will continue to climb to the bridge. I'm missing a tap on a scuttle, I'm good to reprint.
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