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Seahawk

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Everything posted by Seahawk

  1. From my memories of when Airfix's Beagle Basset first came out in the 1960s, the transparencies were always a weak point with this kit. I heard a story that, when Airfix did the last batch of Bassets under the Kitstarter scheme, they mislaid the transparencies and that the kits in the recent reissue therefore have a completely new set of canopies. Has anyone had the chance to do a side-by-side comparison of the transparencies in the Kitstarter or previous releases and in the current reissue? Are the new transparencies any improvement? How do they compare in respect of a. clarity and b. fit? Worth buying another kit for? I imagine the transfers this time round are by Cartograph. Again, has quality improved markedly over what's in the Kitstarter release? Thanks for your help.
  2. So you may have these. Most have some specific coverage of Evening Star but only the nameplates and paint scheme differentiated her from (most of) her sisters Riddles Class 9F 2-10-0 by David Clarke (Ian Allen Locomotives In Detail 7). Pick of the crop for my money. Lots of good-sized photos, many colour close-ups of detail features. Goes into a lot of the detail modellers need to know like the tender differences and the minor differences between engines in the same class. OO-scale 4-view drawings by Ian Beattie of a double-chimney 9F with BR1B tender and a Crosti loco. The British Railways Standard 9F 2-10-0 by Philip Atkins. Lots of photos, both during build and service. Shed allocations. BR Standard Class 9F Ed G Weekes. One of the old Bradford Barton books. Photographic coverage of in-service locos though sometimes too distant for modelling purposes. Then sections in other books on the Standards more generally eg BR Standard Steam In Close-up by Tony Fairclough and Alan Will. Bradford Barton again. Good coverage of the Crostis. Coverage of 5 other Standard classes as well. BR Standard Steam Locomotives by Brian Stephenson. Ian Allen. Edited selection of photos and info from the old Locomotive Illustrated magazines. 19 pages on the 9Fs, Good large photos though not modelling-focussed. A Pictorial Record of British Railways Standard Steam Locomotives by Edward Talbot (OPC). 18 pages on the 9Fs. Large format photos and some useful detail photos. If you go for just one of the titles, get the Locomotives In Detail: I think you'd regret buiding a model of a 9F without it. The colour photos of preserved examples are especially useful. HTH
  3. Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense to me.
  4. What a curiously spiteful thing to do. Clipping or gating off unused parts from the frames is one thing (though I question the economics of the former) but deliberately spoiling them seems to rather rub the customer's nose in it.
  5. There is (or at least was) a good reason for this. Wifi reception in the halls has historically been so bad that traders often couldn't get a signal and, if they could, neither trader or customer knew for sure whether a tranasction had gone through.
  6. You really haven't got the hang of this, have you?
  7. Yes, it is not enough for the book to leave you in perfect condition. It needs to arrive with the buyer equally unscathed. I reckon a bit extra spent on bubble wrap is good insurance against the time, expense and general hassle of negotiating a return.
  8. Nice work on that breakwater. I can imagine all sorts of different ways for that to go messily wrong.
  9. And, sadly, beyond what Airfix can achieve using their current business model (attaining that standard, not tackling the subject)
  10. Not such a bad idea: the Revell competition is only sporadically available, not easy to build and lacks all that's needed for a UK QRA aircraft.
  11. At current Airfix prices that's a fair chunk of $210,000 gone already. [Edit: Or maybe not at the current dollar-Sterling exchange rate.] BTW, if you decide to get any more AX Phantoms, consider the Black Mike boxing: it has the frames specific to both the FG.1 and the FGR.2, thus enriching your spares box.
  12. Prop diameter for KGV 14.5 ft (ie 14' 6") according to V E Tarrant's King George V Class Battleships, matching the measured DoY figure quoted by Jamie. Tarrant doesn't list any variations for other ships in the class. Can't find anything on Rodney/Nelson in Raven & Roberts' Man o'War 3: Rodney & Nelson or Burt's British Battleships 1919-1939.
  13. Thanks for the tip. Mine did indeed cure quickly: it cured in the jar before I got round to using it!
  14. Thanks to every who has responded so far. Given half a chance, I will always use my trusty Mr Surfacer 500 (which through evaporation is now more like Mr Surfacer 250). However there are rare occasions when I reach for PPP. Most recently I was trying to fill some quite horribly deep shrink marks right up against the wheel hubs of a Italeri 1/72 Sd Kfz 233. I specifically wanted something that would NOT meld with the plastic and either damage the wheel hubs or clog the tyre treads. PPP has been just the job. I have carved most of the excess away with a sharp modelling knife and cleaned out the recesses next to the wheel hubs with a damp cocktail stick. Very happy with the results and I can't think of another product (except maybe decorator's acrylic caulk - thanks, @Troy Smith) that would have got me the same result. While I had the stuff out, I tried it on a few more filling jobs and have had no problem with adhesion: it stuck well enough for me to carve with my modelling knife. I've had my tube at least 5 years now, during which time I've probably used about 2 peas' worth in volume. Whenever I use it, I put a drop or two of water down the tube nozzle and use a cocktail stick to mix it in with the filler around the nozzle hole. I'm surprised that it tolerates me rejuvenating it in this way but impressed with these most recent results. As regards sealing, I think I'll go with @Rob G's suggestion of a thin coat of enamel (memo to self: THIN!) as I don't like the thought of using water-based paints with water-based filler. I might experiment with @Pigpen's idea of using Mr Surfacer 500 (though if I could use it to seal PPP, I would probably have use Mr Surfacer to fill the gap in the first place). I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the all-purpose miracle product Klear as a sealer. I must admit it does stick in the craw to pay 8 times the price for the merest fraction of the quantity in the Screwfix tube. At least it's more compact to store. From bitter experience I am now generally very sceptical of Deluxe Materials products. I found Strip Magic ("softens and removes paint from plastic in minutes") not only horribly expensive but functionally completely useless.
  15. I've just used Perfect Plastic putty to fill some small gaps and sink marks in plastic parts. I am keen that this water-soluble product does not wash out again when I clean the model for painting OR interact unhelpfully with my water-based acrylic paints when I paint it (I use MIG Ammo, Vallejo and Tamiya). 1. Am I worrying unnecessarily? 2. If not, have others found a way of sealing Perfect Plastic so it stays in place and does not interfere with paintwork? Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
  16. Every single colour except the White is wrong: the upper surface camouflage colours are spectacularly out and even the national markings are in bright rather than dull colours. And the upper wing roundels are the wrong size. Plus it's my understanding that, while 835 did operate Wildcat VIs off Nairana from Sep 44 to Mar 45, its code was Y, not Q. On the other hand 853 Sq (note transposition) did operate Q-coded Wildcat VIs but off Queen - and used Yellow codes. Wildcat VI Q-T of 853 Sq was serial JV706.
  17. From Dana Bell's excellent Aircraft Pictorial 7: F4U-1 Corsair Vol 1: Cockpit interior: "Dull Dark Green was the finish coat for early Birdcage cockpits. .... In Spring 1943 the Navy directed manufacturers to use up existing stocks of Indian Red and Dull Dark Green lacquer, switching to a mix of black enamel and zinc chromate to create 'Interior Green' for a finsih coat and cockpit colour. Indian Red was quickly depleted but Dull Dark Green was often found on later Corsairs." [So you seem to have a choice of Dull Dark Green or Interior Green. I use Humbrol 149 for Dull Dark Green.] Bombing Window: "Every Birdcage Corsair was delivered with a bombing window, a feature that alllowed pilots to observe potential targets before initiating a dive bombing attack. The window was replaced with an access door later in production but there was no requirement to retrofit the door." A photo shows that, behind/above the window, two struts run from front centre to both rear corners of the window. Wing spoiler: [small triangle on leading edge of wing outboard of machine guns] not introduced until Bu No 17640, [so not applicable to any Corsair I]. If your references say anything different from what Dana says in this book, query your references! My additions/explanations in square brackets.
  18. Some frames are common across all the Tamiya 1/72 Corsair kits. The kits provide the slightly smaller (13' 1") prop introduced during F4U-1D production as well as the more common 13' 4" one. For a Corsair I you need the larger of the 2 options. The other will be a very nice addition to the spares box. (The USN and FAA both used the same props.) Early Corsairs like the Corsair I will have been built with the bombing window.
  19. I've just been through Geoff Thomas' excellent Royal Air Force Thunderbolts. It's often salutary to reacquaint oneself with some facts! In 12 photos showing underwing stores on operational aircraft, 1 shows US 500lb (HD273, NA-N, Mk.II) 1 shows 500lb MC (KJ335, FJ-W, Mk.II) 1 appears to show 500lb GP (FL831, NA-N, Mk.II) 4 show US P-38 style drop tanks (eg HD215 NA-F, Mk.II; HD298 RS-U, Mk.II; HD173, A, Mk.I; KL859 MU-T, Mk.II). "Seam" invariably vertical, colour aluminium. 3 show US 110 gal P-47-style parallel sided drop tanks (eg KL315 AW-F, Mk.II; KL856 KW-D, Mk.II, KL882 MU-H, Mk.II). Some photos are bit murky so identification of stores not always 100% definite. There are others where the store is identifiable but not the individual aircraft. Somewhere floating around on the internet is an invaluable Pathe film showing SEAC Thunderbolt operations. It may well give you more ideas.
  20. US 500lb bombs could be carried without further ado. British bombs required the addition of a UK bomb carrier to the bottom of the wing pylons as an adapter, though they are not often clearly visible. Such bomb carriers are available in the Airfix 1/72 Swordfish and Blenheim kits and, I imagine, in their 1/48 equivalents. Offhand, I can’t recall any UK bombs other than 500lb MC being carried but I haven’t looked for a while.
  21. Ideally on the 8th green.
  22. Very nice. PS Whatever you say about the Luftwaffe, you can't fault their lawn-keeping skills.
  23. Well, no-one can deny that it's a whole lot more realistic than what Airfix provided. Congratulations.
  24. As a rule of thumb but not, I think, invariably, SEAC fighter aircraft with Black serials are in the Day Fighter Scheme, those with the serial in White have been repainted into Temperate Land Scheme.
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