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I’ve never seen it in hobbycraft I got mine on amazon for £15 as that’s the only place I could find it Tamiya Polishing Compound Fine and Finish SET https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XDRKEGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VrxtFbRDGEZDB my objective is to get a nice glossy shine on my car body like I’ve seen people get on YouTube by using it. They tend to sand the body first with 6000/8000 grit sand paper as I say I was only using the chrome and aqua clear as a test as I had it ready sitting there cured. I’ve painted another 2 test pieces with my main subjects colours. Tamiya TS spray then 3 coats of Tamiya LP gloss clear. I will give it 3/4 days and then try the compounds on those. I also tried it on some spoons with the LP paint on tonight, not clear coated and I couldn’t replicate the problem with the Alclad so the Tamiya TS spray is more robust than the Alclad clear! Still I couldn’t get a noticeably different finish between polished and non polished after 3x fine and 1x finish

Hi all just got my hands on some of this to finish a current build. Currently got the fine and finish with the coarse being delivered from spotmodel later this week. tried the fine and finish on a test piece I had laying around and A.) didn’t notice any difference and B.) it seems to have taken off the top layer of clear coat and paint from the test piece. the test piece was done to test chroming and was finished using alclad aqua gloss clear on top of aclad chrome. so as a result I’m a bit worried about letting it loose on my current project. what are people’s work flows with this stuff? Do you sand with sand paper before? That idea fills me with dred. Especially after my test piece!

Thanks. Someone has also recommended Alclad aluminium for the xf56 equivalent so I might get both and see how they come out

Hi aplogies if this has been asked before. I've searched and checked the ultimate conversion chart but no luck. Also google didnt return any results. Does anyone have a conversion chart for Tamya -> alclad I am about to start painting a Tamyia 1/12 F1 car and would like to try and find a decent colour match (but better metalic) for XF-56 and x-10 etc for my engine block and gearbox Thanks Andrew

I must admit, I thought they were the same, except in a tin rather than a can. I tried some white spirit this morning and that does seem to be a better solution and doesn't mark the body. Just be careful and test first!

Thanks for the tip. It seems to be the paint. I had a couple of spoons I'd test painted one in the LP mica blue sprayed through the airbrush and one in the spray can blue. Both were painted a good month or more ago. The Spray can blue exhibits the same scuffing with humbrol enamal thinner where as the airbrushed mica blue from the pot... not a mark, strange as they are meant to be the same paint!

Hi all Rather frustrating ruin of my nice painted bodywork tonight. Has anyone else had this problem? I understood that I could paint my body in Tamiya Laquer (used spray can) and then do my panel lines with enamal, using enamel thinner to clean up the mess on the edges? I've done this on my last car which was painted with Tamiya Laquer LP pains sprayed through my airbrush (rather than spray can on this occasion). I had no problems both on the raw lacquer or once clear coated (Again with the LP gloss clear). However tonight, after leaving my body for a couple of days to dry (painted last coat wednesday and previous coat monday) I started the same process this evening. Result: same result on several parts of the body. its had a lot of coats to get the deap colour so its a right pain in the bottom to have to spray another, as I'll start loosing some definition soon.... but I have no other option unfortunatly

I've built a couple of brass loco's and so I'm well aware of slaters stuff as its a railway based shop! I have a few bits of plasticard hanging about but wouldn't it be difficult to shape round the contours? especially the bottom which has a lip, you cant really see it in the photo. Trying to visualise what you mean - i.e use plasticard to fill the gap, glue it, sand it? seems like a great idea if it were a more flat surface with less contours - I'd say it would be a lot more effort on these bits?

Hi all I used the shocks, suspension and wheels from the Evo VI kit to make a Gravel spec Evo V as driven by Richard Burns at the 98 RAC rally (Winner). A few problems along the way but i'm really happy how its come out. P.S i sorted out the dodgy sump guard!

Thanks for the tips - I may try with superglue and just sand in future - what benefit does adding the talc have? On my current one I made sure i applied too much glue and did use superglue hence the lack of filling on the top as I've just filed the superglue flush with the plastic The problem is - the fit is pretty poor on these parts the gap if butted up against 1 end is near half a mm i'd say and the working area is not very easy to access, I've made 3 of these now and every time i was hoping my experience would lead to a better process but sadly it hasn't! I've done this about 4 lots of applications but its still not flat. I'll do as suggested now and prime then fill again and sand -> I just wish i could avoid this step

Hi all how do you all deal with filling very fine gaps? ive watched many tutorials on YouTube where people seem to fill gaps and wipe any excess away very quickly with a cotton bud but whatever I seem to do it takes me hours and hours of filling, sanding, filling again, cleaning up lots of mess, painting, finding the gap isn’t filled, filling again. praying that when I put the main coat on any gaps disappear... if I do the recommended technique above I find that the putty generally comes out of the gaps at the same time (they are very fine) and if I leave it too long it drys hard and takes too much effort to clear with with Cotton bud. Ie requires a lot of force and or water and still takes the putty out the gap. ive resorted to just pilling it on top of the gaps and pressing in and then spending hours (literally 8 to 9 hours of work on 4 or 5 gaps) filing it back smooth. Even then the gaps still appear after painting. im a bit stuck as to the best technique - I just know it’s wasting my time at the moment!

Hi Ive not seen this mentioned so I thought I would bring it to peoples attention. ive often seen people recommend pushing decals into panel lines with a knife/blade and cutting the decal. however I’ve been using the Tamiya fine cotton buds in combination with the usual decal softening solutions and it works a charm. The decals set down really nicely and you can apply a lot of pressure to really push them in. If you rub them up and down the panel line with enough micro sol it will give you a clean panel line and expose any panel line wash underneath.

Damn. Probably have to live with it!

I didn’t notice some black dust settled on my white body. I’ve done a couple of coats over the top. Is there any way to sand it or remove the dust without damaging the clear coat?

thanks, yes I had read that it’s a good idea to paint over the base colour once masked. I’ll try that next time. In this case the white has already been done so it’s a clean up job rather than repaint the white. As a result I’m not keen to use a knife as I’ll damage the white!

Evening all really pleased with how my mask has come out but there are a couple of areas where the red bled under the mask. im planning on waiting for the paint to fully cure, masking the red and t cutting the bleed - has anyone got any other methods they could suggest?

Hi all. i tried painting the body of the above car this morning using my new iwata eclipse with a 0.35 needle. The Tamiya LP paint was thinner roughly 1:1 with their lacquer thinner - retarder type. Around the wheel arches and some areas in the top of the bonnet and top of the boot went on dusty again. i was spraying at about 12-14 psi. Still no closer to understanding what I am doing wrong!

Would putting a darker base coat down under the Lacquer equivelent be advantagious. Ive just seen this: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/24632-help-on-paint-color/

Would putting a darker base coat down under the Lacquer equivelent be advantagious. Ive just seen this: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/24632-help-on-paint-color/ I'm still convinced the car needs to be darker. The real car was a deeper blue than i see when painted with zero, maybe with the sun on it, it can look lighter but really you need a flatter light to get an accurate representation. I agree that sometimes the car looked lighter but if you look at photos photos taken in australia (the round before the RAC which is the car I am doing) its clearly a deeper blue. Anyway i am going for the deeper colour on personal experience!

I think I mentioned it - it’s tamiya lacquer thinner retarder type - specifically for the LP paints. Usually in a 50:50 ratio spraying at between 15 and 20 PSI. i have an Iwata eclipse on the way. That has a 0.35 needle with the option to buy and fit a 0.5 so hopefully will see the benefits over this Chinese one!

Hmm that’s interesting. So if that’s the case decanting wouldn’t solve the issue. I thought maybe that if I spray at a higher pressure and push more out it might end up with a similar effect. cutrently leaning towards stripping and repainting with the can otherwise I’ll never be happy and it won’t sit with right with the other 2 on the shelf! luckily I have a Local shop who has been kind enough to drop some stuff into me during these strange times otherwise I’d be waiting ages to get anything! Hopefully they have some stock of the mica blue

Thanks - I am using Tamiya lacquer thinner retarder type which should do the job? i tried to prime a body shell yesterday and the bonnet, roof and top of the boot ended up very sandy - not quite as bad as the above but still the same effect. - I think it might be overspray? ive been doing some research as I’ve recently painted th body of another car and I can also see the orange peal effect in the same areas of the body - possibly the same issue? Perhaps if it pull the trigger back to about 50-75% rather than 100% I’ll get a better finish on the detailed parts and bonnet/roof/boot?

thanks - I did have a search and couldn’t find anything. I’ve tried again but still can’t find that thread on mica blue. I did try decanting the spray and sprayed one top coat of the spray on top of the LP but even that seems to light which made me think it may be a thinning or pressure issue through the airbrush? P.S I am not going to get hung up on the colour debate as that is not the purpose of the post!

Thanks - question was more around why the equivalent paint TS-50 mica blue is not producing the same colour as Tamiya LP-41 Mica blue. They are apparently just decanted versions of the spray paint. i don’t think it’s an issue of mixing because I’ve tried on several occasions over a few weeks, always shaking vigerously and stiring for a minute. here is the car I a, doing - much Deeper blue than the left one

Hi all i decided to airbrush my latest model, a second Subaru. Most Subaru’s I see online seem to have a blue colour which is not deep enough vs the real car. with my previous 2 I’ve sprayed the mica blue TS-50 from the can. This time I’ve used the bottled lacquer mica blue. I’d been expecting a similar finish. You do need 3/4 coats of the spray to get the right blue but on all my test parts I’m really struggling to get anything deep enough through the airbrush. Both were primed with grey primer. The new car zero paints and the first Tamiya spray grey. The finished car has also been clear coated once before decals lightly and once heavily after. any suggestions?