Jump to content

ptarmigan

Members
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

34 Good

About ptarmigan

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brno

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You may be in luck Last year Mr. Sulc has confirmed that they (Eduard) are working on MiG-21 F and two-seaters in the 1/48 scale. Likely we are going to see 21F in 2022 a the U/UM/US year or two after that.
  2. I agree that Eduard's decals behave differently than Cartograf ones. But I do not agree they are harder to work with - just a different kettle of fish. What works for Cartograf decals may not be optimal for Tamiya or Eduard decals. One just have to adjust his process accordingly (maybe adding more water when applying the decal?) Stripping the carrier film is not needed at all. However for those who wish to do so, it is not difficult or too risky, if you practice beforehand on some spare decals. The last model I have finished has been Eduard's Razorback in 1/144 (Platz plastic) with
  3. What's wrong with the decals? There were some early issues (like missing an extra layer of white in the case of Eiko, IIRC), but these have been long since ironed out. The decals I have look excellent to naked eye and you can even easily remove the carrier film if you wish so (though this is officially not supported and rarely, if ever, needed).
  4. Thanks for confirming my suspicion (and the stuff I heard) about the AK paints (and for pointing out some other options). I have some favourites/mixes in other paint ranges (when I was still using enamels, I also was reasonably happy with a mix based on Humbrol 77) however its is hard to tell how far these colours are from the original ones without having access to proper paint chips. Close enough , MRP are from Slovakia (the Czech ones are Agama/Xtracolor/Xtracrylix). Unfortunately the regular MRP are lacquer-based, and their Aqua range (MRP-A) is quite limited and not
  5. Giorgio - I wholeheartedly agree with your assessment. I would like to add a comment about how hard it is to get as close to the original colour (when new!) as possible. The usual approach would be to get some "official" paint chip chart and mix your colours accordingly. Some universally recognized sources of WWII paint chips are e.g.: - The Official Monogram USN & USMC Aircraft Color Guide Vol.2 (1940-1949) [for USN/USMC] Published in 1988. - British aviation colours of World War Two: the official camouflage, colours & markings of RAF aircraft, 1939-1945
  6. A significant portion of my models are US Navy WWII planes. I'm a brush painter and strongly prefer water-based acrylics. Currently mostly Revell, which is an excellent paint for brush painting - covers nicely, self-levels, does not need a primer ... And sometimes Agama, basically the same stuff as Xtracrylix. Unfortunately, Revell's range does not really cover the "original" WWII colours (nor does Xtracrylix). The colours I need are basically those listed here: https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/pages/us-navy-aircraft-colour-schemes I have done my research (in the literature, here and elsewh
  7. No, we brushpainters do not have the need
  8. No, not really. If your new kit is in some sense better (quality, price, variant) than those already available on the market, than it makes more sense to produce it. Not having any such advantage is always detrimental to sales. What I wanted to say is that there are possibly other types which can make more money for Airfix than MiGs 15 and 21. This was the case with MiG-17, where there weren't any modern kits before Airfix produced one. But of course, I may be completely wrong For example I do not know what is the world-wide availability (and price) of Eduard kits. I can get easily both and
  9. For both MiGs we have excellent kits from Eduard - I'm not sure, what would be the selling point for Airfix.
  10. Maybe you tried it in airbrush? Revell Aqua is great for brushing (at least for me :)), however, according to what I've read, not many airbrushers like it.
  11. Quality is lower than Arma, Eduard or recent SH offerings. Or even some older AZ stuff, like BF109Gs. Soft details, flashes...
  12. Better sprue shots here: https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=720&t=138343#p2395787 Definitely not impressed.
  13. I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Enamel-Painting-Color-Academy-Plastic/dp/B08K7C6Q8C But since these colours are a bit on a "close enough for kids" side, I would just research the appropriate colours for the real thing and buy from any paint manufacturer you like
  14. Could be also your brush (not all brushes are created equal) or the way you stir the paint before painting. Bubbles are more likely with water based acrylics. I do sometimes use Xtracrylix (more precisely Agama acrylics, actually exactly the same paint) and they must be stirred gently before painting, or left to "gas out" a bit. Otherwise the microbubbles in the paint can manifest when painting using the brush.
  15. Would love to see some numbers comparing the size of the UK and, e.g., Czech model market.
×
×
  • Create New...